Replaced my fuel pump (and relay) a couple weeks ago and was getting the 1261 code about the ground circuit, but the car seemed to run fine. Cleaned a few main grounds, and applied dielectric grease to all the connections on the fuel pump wiring I could. I also pulled the DME and cleaned it as it was a bit dirty. Turned the car on and I was disappointed to see another check engine light, this time for main battery voltage. As luck would have it, I threw my voltmeter on the battery at idle and it was seeing over 16V!
Pulled it and had it tested at the parts place to confirm. I disassembled it slightly and there is more corrosion on the internal bits than I'm comfortable with, so I'll probably pull one from the junk yard next week. I heard the rebuilt alternators are garbage. Planning on doing the oil filter housing gasket and o-rings on the back while it's all apart. It really never ends.
OBD1 conversion nearly complete. New windshield goes on today, then onto the alignment rack to check to see if the caster changed when the Vorshlag ring bolts were replaced.
Prototype front strut brace and x-brace are complete, and ready for track testing on Saturday at the Garagistic Cup. I requested to leave the braces uncoated so that I can rattle can them the orange mist metallic I paint everything. Gotta have that undercarriage bling when I am launching 2 wheels off curbs @ Bimmerfest.....
My old Racebrace type strut bar & OE x-brace will be going up for sale if any of the locals are interested in squaring up their front subframe & strut towers.
Since going to larger injectors & 3.5" MAF, the Turner reflash has had a few problems, and I refuse to pay $700+ for an actual OBD2 tune on a M52. The first being that the CEL is on (2nd o2 sensor, not using an o2 simulator), the car is hard to start most of the time, and the rev limiter is inconsistent. Most of the time it is the stock B28 6500 rev limit, and since going to the 3.73 LSD, I could really really use that extra 5-600 rpm I am supposed to have.
I am sure it will have its own unique issues as well, but I was promised a noticeable gain in power (better mapping) on top of correcting those issues, and that pretty much made it worth taking the chance (+ being free). I never got the opportunity to get it on the dyno with full OBD2 bolt ons, but I will with the OBD1.
Rattlecanned the passenger side fog light cover to match the rest of the car. Turned out pretty nice!
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Swapped out the rattly and poor-fitting Momo shift knob that the car had when I bought it, finally.
MKAH Delrin shift knob. Looks a bit phallic, but wow what an improvement. I love it.
95 M3 Coupe
01 M3 Coupe
Take off the radiator cover (2 screws) and wrap the zip ties up behind the grills/panel, to each other. I did the same to mine over a year ago, and no one can even see the white zip ties I used, unless I point it out.
Nice! Yeah I got it from Turner since I had a credit with them and ironically, besides stuff like CAE of course, it was the nicest one they had I felt like. For the least expensive. Now I'm noticing I can sit up a lot straighter and keep my eyes high where they should be.
95 M3 Coupe
01 M3 Coupe
Tried out this new Liqui-Moly stuff in my 95 M. So far I'm noticing results: smoother engine, no oil smell, and smoother idle. Anyone else try it? I got the 5w-40 Leichtlauf one (which smells amazing... am I insane?).
Also ordered that stainless oil filter but it's back ordered. That must mean a lot of people are buying that. Or that they just didn't stock enough of them...
New OEM badge set. Works wonders on an aging exterior!
95 M3 Coupe
01 M3 Coupe
I drained and refilled my diff with Royal Purple 75w140 and then I took a length of 2 1/2" plastic vacuum hose and cut half of the hose away (about five inches) and fed that end down into the flap of my recently cut driver's side brake duct (cut side of the hose facing out) The other end received a similar cut and is neatly aimed directly where the intake snorkel meets the air box. The hose is small enough so that the brakes can still get air and air still hits the flap cut in the brake duct. After a half hour jaunt of what felt like a noticeable improvement, the filter housing was ice cold while the rest of the box was warm but not quite as warm as it has been in the past.
Drove Mine for about 2.5 hours through Angeles Crest / Big Tujunga with a friend in an E93 M3. Didnt Hiccup once, and was extremely humbled by my friend who was tailing and said he was giving it his all to keep up. Given he was on nankangs. He is visiting from Boston and has a built 335i E92 back home. The grip post alignment is insane. Couldnt imagine more rear camber. Once i get a second at home ill try and get together some clips of the canyon runs, But its my Birthday this weekend and im running all over the place. brb
TVCAUSALTY: Did you have any clearance issues with the fan shroud and water pump bolt being too close to each other? I can’t believe the shroud didn’t place the fan slightly more to side to avoid clearance issues that I’m getting.
Also what exhaust is that?
Last edited by verobeach97; 03-30-2018 at 06:55 PM.
Replaced leaky noisy powersteering rack with one from RACKDOCTOR.com. Thumbs up for customer service, timeliness and quality of those guys. Replaced LCA bushings and front strut mounts from FCPEURO while at it. (can’t believe I overpaid at ECS all this time before).
Traded my stromung exhaust for M3 muffler and I’m in heaven again. Not only can I hear myself at 80mph with 3.38 diff the mid range power is so nice to have back. Waste of $700
Next up are brakes kit (ceramic to reduce dust), reposition the overpriced mishimoto electric shroud that’s touching the engine
Also oil filter housing gasket leak is getting pretty bad. That’s next big job
De-badged my M side trim with some Talon Grip textured self adhesive rubber. I am getting near finishing the car up (for now) and will be driving it more. Maybe the Hondas will stop revving their engines at me lol.
I am going to also cover the ///M's on my door sills but will have to order more talon grip first.
Going out to drill the passengers door panel and mount it in a few minutes.
I got the door panel mounted up and adjusted my hood latches. The passengers side was high, I brought the whole hood level, the gap is almost gone. The rubber that came with the alternator cooling cowl was removed, it was making the gap between the hood and grill/headlights too wide.
A few small things left to do, then drive and maintain for a while.
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Nope. Doesnt hit it at all and Ive been to the track twice since I installed it. If it was gonna have issues it would definitely be there.
I read here that a few people had clearance issues before I bought it so when I installed it I made sure I slid it over to the driver side as far as it would go there is quite a bit of play in the bolt holes. Also after install I pushed on the fan towards the radiator to bend it ever so slightly. Not sure if that did much but i felt better about it.
heres what i mean tats the driver side
IMG_20180331_152742.jpg
and theres my clearance
IMG_20180331_152825.jpg
Exhaust is an Umnitza "DaCorsa" there is a group buy going on now here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...aust-Group-Buy I didnt want to wait so i bought it from them on ebay for a little bit more than the GB price.
dude whats up with your windshield wiper
Rough day at the track. Fuel cut at 6200 in every gear, and then a hesitation emerging during gear changes. Dyno time already set to locate the reason.
On the bright side to such a troubling day at the track, gonna be coaching at Laguna Seca last weekend in June (Bimmer Challenge weekend) in a LS7 powered Porsche 914. Not sure if I will bring my car up yet to compete... will decide after my result at BimmerFest in May.
Maxed out the caster on my camber plates and gave her a detail.
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