Notched out the Motion Motorsports underpanel today so the sway bar doesn't hit it and pull on it when the car is up in the air. Not the straightest cut but it works.
Also reinforced it (cuz I can't leave anything alone). The plastic nuts that hold the bracket to the frame sucked and kept popping out. Removed the plastic inserts, drilled it out a little more and used rivnuts to hold it in place with M6 bolts. Now it's even more solid than before and I'm positive it can hold a hell of a lot more pressure than before. I didn't take pictures of that cuz I was too excited to get it back on
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Last edited by LockDots; 01-15-2019 at 06:30 AM.
Looked at my car again. It's been parked since mid November pending the driveshaft and rear end work. Unfortunately just no time over the holidays and now we're finally into the cold of winter. Getting a real itch to get it back on the road because driving our backup car mountaineer sucks in comparison and really missing my heated seats.
I've been driving mine...first winter with it. Long story short we have 3 DD's and I occassionally need this one. And....damn it's fun
Just got ~10" - just one small crack in the splitter (I usually fix the dang thing 3 times a year anyways).
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We have zero inches of snow. Probably rained more than it's snowed. I'm shocked. Also not mad. But now that it's cold it better snow.
Hows that working for you? Finally getting around to replacing the drivers side on the 98 vert. I was a bit freaked out when I opened up the door panel and saw all those connectors, while the new one I received only had one. Wasnt til I got it out that I saw that the microswitches are easily moved over to the new handle. But now I'm facing the fact that the one that sits on top of the lock cylinder, whatever it does, has the harness completely sheared so I'll have to sort that out. And the yellow microswitch's plastic body is all broken away...... found all hat yellow plastic laying around in the bottom of the door, alond with the reason for the replacement, the broken off arm from the latch. Oh, and the metal tang that the electrical connection mount attaches to? That was down there too, along with the plastic connection holder..... So, who can tell me what that yellow one does? White is lock cylinder heater, grey is handle open to tripper dome light and window drop, no idea what the grey yellow one is though. Pic isnt mine, but a whole one.
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As far as I know, yellow connector is for central locking. As you correctly mentioned, white serves the door lock heating and grey activates interior lighting when you lift up the door handle. However, window drop is controlled by microswitch inside the door striker.
I'm still researching how to get this done. There are a ton of resources out there that all show different ways of replacing this thing. From removing the window completely, to just rocking it back and forth as you work. I haven't made up my mind yet as to how I'm going to go about it. I have purchased new slides for the bottom of the glass as part of a "while you're in there" kind of repair, but other than that- hoping i can research enough to keep this from becoming a complete fiasco. Any hints or suggestions are welcome.
Removed the entire exhaust system in preparation for shorty headers and high-flow cats.
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De-oxidized red button on top of rear seats
De-oxidized red button on seat belt receptacles
Washed & removed all dust from center vent; vents are all clean as new
Experimented with Klasse All in One - amazing stuff for engine bay paint oxidation
Cracked windshield messing with rear view mirror
CARS
02.92 325is / 06.72 2002 / 02.91 XJ / 08.04 R53 JCW
I went the "Remove that back window track" and lift the window up in the rear route. I did strip out both bolts that come into that track from underneath and have to cut them off. Took far less force to strip them than you might expect, since they only engage about 2-3 threads as they go through bracket. Cut them off from the bottom, I'll replace with bolts and locknuts. I also bought new slides for the same reason. Did you get replacement door handle gaskets? I bought two sets from Shogun and they are very nice Fit is perfect. I used the tap the screwdriver method to remove the lock cylinder nut, which conveniently broke So I need one of those..... I'm at all stop right now, waiting for my go-to used parts guy, 666 on here, to let me know if he has the microswitches and a nut for me. He always has 5-7 cars at his place. I really dont want to pay $40 each for the switches and $4 plus $8 shipping for the damn nut
Took Mine to an Auto X Event. Car did really well even with needing a few things buttoned up. Ended up dropping 4 seconds off my entry time and finishing with a time one second slower than a new Corvette ZR1. Course ended up being much larger than what i expected for Auto X. Cant wait for more!
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 01-20-2019 at 04:11 PM.
Ugh, can't wait for Autocross to start again. Then again I still have lots to finish up.
Got my Turner OBD2 shorties in tonight. Getting the old headers and studs out was easy. Installing N54 studs was a piece of cake. Getting access to the studs with new nuts....sucked.
Almost done getting them in, thankfully.
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How do you like the QuickJacks? Do you miss not being able to get under the car from the side?
I'm thinking the next garage I'm in, I'm either looking at a set of QuickJacks or a low-rise lift depending on budget and concrete in that garage. $1000 is cheap for being able to easily lift a vehicle 24" in the air, especially for detailing.
I absolutely love it. Best garage purchase by far. I don't really miss getting in from the side. It was funny getting used to it at first because I'd instinctively walk to the sides, then remember I have to go to the front/rear of the car instead. It's a small price to pay really. I didn't have the option for a 2-post due to my garage's size and unknown floor thickness so this was the best I could do and don't have a single regret. When I'm done I just leave them collapsed under the middle of the car and it clears just fine (dependent on how low your car is of course).
2nd this....there is actually a "QuickJack" thread and I have yet to meet anyone that is disappointed. I love it and if you enjoy working on your car/cars, then it is simply a must have. Yes, it isn't "cheap" but I feel it is safer than jack stands and the portability has made me, as the family mechanic, a lifesaver for friends and family.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
I actually replaced the gasket not long ago so I am good to go on that front. I appreciate the heads up about the bottom bolts- though I feel like it may be unavoidable. I was planning on going the "tap/screwdriver" route as well. May have to rethink that one too. Or maybe I'll just go complete race car, weld the door shut and remove the glass. Dukes of hazzard style. All viable options at this point in the game.
Killing me a bit because I had a set of 90 degree pliers within reach........... I maybe should have presoaked the bolts, but I'm not sure that would have helped, they look to have been galled. I have a fully loaded used door handle arriving tomorrow, so I'll have a "new" nut. So I'll be starting reassembly maybe Wed afternoon.
DKM Clutch, single mass flywheel conversion. Also replaced input and output shaft seals on the tranny. Cant wait to drive it!
https://i.imgur.com/WWmfiyl_d.jpg?ma...idelity=medium
Last edited by shadze36; 01-22-2019 at 01:45 AM.
Posted my vf kit for sale on m3forum.net
“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
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I just completed another track day with my E36. Maybe this goes here, maybe it goes under "when did you fall in love with your E36" thread.
Two nice Turner boxes are now installed(Turner, you need stickers!!!) I just completed the rear and front blue Turner sway bars with adjustable links and rienforcements on rears, RTABs and Turner RTAB align discs, upper and lower ball joints, hubbearings, hubs, parking brakes, parking brake cables, axles, aluminum subframe bushings and diff alumin/delrin bushings. The center section was supposed to have its posi installed, but we learned that the offset was incorrect(all a learning experience these cars). And then aligned the car -3.25°/-2.0° with 0"/-1/8" toe. All done starting within two weeks of a track day in New Mexico.
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And because two weeks of work doesn't equal 5 pictures, here are the rest.
Cheers.
Got my door handle all assembled courtesy of fast shipping of a donor handle from 666. Not a big job, but I'm happy. Went from this with no end on the yellow, and a busted up grey. Also swapped over the lock cylinder, which was easier than I expected.
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To this.
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Took out my seats to re dye them .
After reinstalling no more airbag light !
Hooray !
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This car is AWESOME !!!
That looks awesome. Leatherique?
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