Trying to deal with this because some little shit decided to vandalize my car (they didn't even take anything):
DSC_0322.jpgDSC_0324.jpg
Swapped out my centered FCAB for a set of offset. Both are AKG 95A poly. Now I need an alignment. Already loving how it feels though.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Removed the OEM rubber subframe and diff bushings from my spare rear subframe in anticipation of going with solid mounts:
In preparation for this diffuser I picked up I added nutserts to my existing and spare subframes:
Money shot of the RTABs from the recent group buy:
Picked up a passenger mat sensor delete from eBay:
Part of the rear diffuser mounting will include a bolt through the spare tire well drain plug, which means I need access through the spare tire well if I'm going to be removing the diffuser from time-to-time. It make access easier, I converted over my Hard Motorsports trunk panel from rivets to nutserts
Last but not least, started to mount up the diffuser and take measurements as I go. I also had to drop the muffler because the guy that made the diffuser didn't account for the muffler. Once I get the mounting points finished, I'll loop back around and start making changes to the panel that meets up with the rear diff carrier. I think I'll probably just add a bend to the diffuser to wrap over the muffler. We'll see.
When you removed the front diff bushing did its have a metal sleeve that was pressed into the carrier??
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
finished up the wifes 93. heater core and radiator. i did the water pump and thermostat in january then the rad took a dump. so now that's done. also installed new fogs in it. so much better.
as for mine. drove it.
2 Brilliant Red 1993 BMW 325i Sedans. identical except interior color
1 1982 320i in cypress green.
Nope came out as one piece, like this:
33171134871.jpg
I see, mine came out in many pieces and there's a ton of rubber still cemented in the carrier that I simply can not remove
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Tuesday evening the small coolant hose between the top of the radiator and coolant tank blew apart, looks like the mechanical fan got a hold of it and chaffed it. I smelled coolant and heard the wet belt squealing so I pulled over before it overheated and brought it home with my dolly. I replaced it and the coolant tank wednesday night and ran the car yesterday. This morning the head off of the bleeder screw broke off and started leaking coolant out. I believe I overtightened the old brittle screw, the new tank didn't come with one so I have no idea how old it was. I had been paying very close attention to any signs of cooling system issues since the hose replacement so I smelled the coolant pretty quickly and there was both a NAPA and a hardware store at the next intersection. In case anyone is curious, the thread is M10-1.0 which is pretty easy to find, the factory bleeder screw is something you are very unlikely to find within walking distance.
Did my 290k mile oil change, flushed the brake fluid with Pentosin Super Dot4, except for the rear right caliper which I snapped off the bleed screw... Used a Motive pressure bleeder, it took about 10 minutes to bleed brakes on the whole car with one person, awesome tool!
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
Did an oil and filter change yesterday. When I reset the oil service with my Peake tool I didn't get all yellow bars back, the one farthest to the left will not light. Today I removed the parts that will be replaced on Tuesday. Water pump, thermostat and fan clutch.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Began installing my Hard Motorsport flares!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So once again the forum has saved me a lot of time and trouble.
After 2 years of sleeping on the side of the house due to a bad #1 cylinder I swapped the motor in my 1997 328i with some help from the forum all went well.
Then the PIA part ..... fixing the roof.
Last bit was to fix the full auto top as the toneau cover was making that horrible grinding noise.
So after a beer (or 4 ) and reading a lot of posts I found the culprit was the toneau motor bracket was slightly bent.
Amazing that that little bit of clearance on the gear drive made the difference.
Bit of a pain to get it out wish I took a pic to show you guys - but in haste reassembled.
After re install a I had success but the cover latches seems to be out of sync they were pulling before the cover was down far enough.
After futzing for an hour I did one more resync and bada bing all is working well now.
SO when in doubt - re sync one more time !
Now on to cleaning up other minor stuff. 328i - M Trim
And to think I almost sold this beauty for $1K.
Thanks to my wife too - she said to fix it.
My thanks to the forum! Makes working on this car a lot of fun.
This car is AWESOME !!!
Finally torqued everything back on the rear end and got my new diff bolt and bushing (front) installed. The second I went to take it for a test drive I had a very large fuel leak
Luckily, it was a worm gear clamp on the soft line to the hard line. I replaced it with an upgraded stainless T clamp style and everything is great now. No more hard starts, plus with the new bushings the rear end feels much, much more planted.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Lubri Moly Engine Flush and Rotella T6 oil change. While under the car, I noticed some seeping tranny fluid. I wiped it down to determine where it's coming from. I haven't got myself back underneath the car yet but I think it might be coming from the shift selector shaft seal. The reason that I say this is because earlier this year when my guibo needed to be replaced I noticed some black grease spattered across the tranny tunnel. I'm thinking this could have been the first sign of seal failure that I kind of overlooked as I hastily addressed the guibo in mid-winter.
failed flex disc.jpg
Anyone know if this panel is supposed to be glued on? Or clips? Realoem shows the entire panel as one piece it looks like.
Bumped it loading some stuff into the back at Home Depot. Now flaps around if I take a corner too quick.
Adhesive recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Sent from the dark side of the Moon
Got my free set of Apex bulletnose wheel studs & Eibach race springs in the mail from the Bimmerfest B5 class win. Just need to pick up a new fuel pump still and those studs will be going in with the CSF radiator from Bimmerfest. The race springs will go on next season when a new corner balance is done.
I am at 2 years next month on the Motorsport Hardware studs. I am eager to replace them, eek out a little more power on the dyno, and get the ABS working for the final 3 Bimmer Challenge events of the season.
Tagged and titled the 323IC....now to do some driving to learn how to drive a stick..
Bought some drapes for the interior!hh.jpg
I got the shop cleared out so I can pull this in and start removing the damage.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Ouch thats Hurt by Jordan v., on Flickr
Destroyed my M3 bumper I paid $20 for last year testing out the mono wiper mod I did a few days ago (hit a massive puddle, ripped it off & ran it over). Got a 'new' non-m bumper today at the wreckers and then replaced my right control arm since the balljoint was toast & topped it off with a fresh coat of wax.
'93 Bmw 32oi /// White leather, H&R race springs, Style 125 reps, Evo X wing
Bummer about that bumper! You’ve got a great looking car!
Question for you though... you said something about a mono-wiper mod. How does that work? Do some cars come with that and others have 2? Reason I ask is because I just bought a ‘98 328i convertible and was surprised when it only had one wiper! Lol!
Bookmarks