The larger the threaded rod the better, I have a collection of pipe fittings I use for pressing. I've got a harbor freight front wheel bearing kit that might have some smaller cups and dies but the threaded piece is too large for the bushings and ball joints for these control arms.
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I have that same wheel bearing press kit and found that 3/8" rod will fit through the RTABs at least, not sure about any others just yet. I'll find out this Saturday.
UMHW takes a while to break in, like any poly material. People use solid aluminum (or delrin in my case) mounts all the time as well.... vibes occur at constant speeds, not something race cars worry about honestly. I have my low mile set of UUC blacks w/ enforcer cups sitting in my parts pile if you want to try those out.
Also, it took me 3+ hours with a BFH, to put my Condor FCABs on when I had them. It was not fun at all under a car only as high as jack stands... but the effort was well worth the steering feel/improvements. I have found that having the specialty tools for these jobs is worth having on hand, or you run into issues like these.
Last edited by Team Neverlift; 06-18-2018 at 12:38 PM.
I was expecting some vibration but at 3500-4000k rpm and up it feels like a driveshaft severely out of balance. Im almost wondering if there is something wrong with the car the rubber mounts was masking. The vibes at idle and up to about 4k dont bother me.
Did you have the Condor stock lollipop inserts or the eyeball mounts like these?
I thought about beating them till they fit but it doesnt seem to me they would have designed em that way.
Bummed cause thats what I was looking forward to putting on the most. With teh spherical RTABs and X brace the car is getting a lot closer to where i want it.
Figured out what was clunking in the front end. Looks like the alignment shop installed the camber plate assembly over the lip of the strut tower reinforcement plate. I'm thinking this out extra stress on the bushing sleeve that holds the spherical bearing, and so it finally popped out.
I'm glad I only did one autocross event like this and the next one isn't for a few weeks. Gonna have to the press at my father's shop this weekend and find an aligent shop open on a weekend before the next event.
Race
Break
Repair
Repeat
I guess, right?
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What kinda noise were you hearing and when?? I wonder if mine is the same way ever since I got my car aligned the front clunks I havent been able to figure out why. Mine are TC Kline camber plates too.
the car still felt fine despite the annoying noises so I just kinda ignored it.
A clunk over slight bumps or divots in the road. Also when turning from lock to lock where I was moving or stationary.
Sounded like a bad ball joint or end link (which use mini ball joints).
Essentially the shock was loose and being held in place by the opening of the bearing carrier. I was able to shake the shock around with the wheels off the ground.
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yesterday i installed my new cross drilled and slotted rotors, sensors and ceramic pads on the yard car. coil overs come in tomorrow for it so hopefully thursday i can install those. is so much nicer to have brakes that dont shake your brains out.
as for the wifes car, rads almost out but i cant remember how i dealt with the cooler attached to it. also the heater core is almost out. just no time to work on it. yay...... all this on top of moving. FML......
2 Brilliant Red 1993 BMW 325i Sedans. identical except interior color
1 1982 320i in cypress green.
First manual...learning to drive the 5 Speed!
500 mile round trip yesterday and not one problem in the yard car. ran like a champ and according to the OBC, 29mpg. even if thats off by a few its still great.
also received my new coilovers. cant wait to install them
2 Brilliant Red 1993 BMW 325i Sedans. identical except interior color
1 1982 320i in cypress green.
Got my refreshed 3.91 LSD installed. Thayer Motorsports 3 clutch upgrade, new bolts and seals. Went together mostly okay- some difficulty getting everything aligned. Still haven't gotten it onto the ground to test, but its spinning okay in the air.
1993 E36 325is
2003 E46 325iT
SpeedHunters feature: http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/...t-dtm-tribute/
APEX feature: https://www.apexraceparts.com/blog/m...-arc-8-wheels/
Put in a new Air Filter (Got the one with the foam pre-filter) and cleaned my MAF sensor. I thought the car ran good before, but there is a big difference in throttle response and it got rid of the very slight occasional fluctuation on idle. Highly recommended.
Swapped out my Condor UMHW tranny mounts for their 70A poly mounts. Definitely a big difference after a week i was almost getting used to the vibes.
also deleted that traction control nonsense the other day
Last edited by tvcasualty; 06-24-2018 at 09:53 AM.
Finished the M52 engine seat to the vert -it fired right up with no issue except a squeak in the belt
All those new parts I should have bought a belt dumb ass me . $500 on ebay from localseller 126k on the motor. Still more reassembly but the hard part is over . Took me about 36 working hours start to finish. Bagged and tagged every bolt an it made it way easy to reassemble.
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This car is AWESOME !!!
Last drove my car 2 weeks ago, but started it monday. Went to drive it today, seemed to have dead battery, took a bit to start, and everything reset like the battery actually died. When i was rebuilding my turbo and painting a few body panels it was down 5 weeks and the battery completely died.....
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Just got done putting an 87°C thermostat in. Been having concerns about high operating temps via my OBD Fusion app and my aftermarket temp gauge. Temps have been in the 210° to 213°F range with a stock 92°C thermostat. After a refill and bleed I'm showing right around 200°F. 87°C should be 188°F. Here are the guages from before, didn't take any afters.20180626_111113.jpgScreenshot_20180626-111008.jpg
today on my vacation i swapped the hood struts and changed oil and filter for the first time ( used car ). and i was impressed with the quality of the car and suspension and parts in general.
Drove to work and my diff went. It's been clunking for a while, sounds like a blender with metal in it. Might try to limp it home from work... hopefully I don't get stranded
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Ordered an upgraded front diff bolt and a new front bushing from bimmerworld. I couldn't find the front bushing on fcp or pelican so I opted for bimmerworld. I upgraded to second day air since the parts were in stock as of yesterday, got an email right before they closed to say it will ship next week. Re authorized my card with a sales rep there and went with powerflex front bushing since it would ship faster. Never got a response and they aren't open on the weekends. Excellent!
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Got her cleaned up - bought an e90- just a bit nicer but no 5 speed
Heat index was 105 today!! Got my differential pulled, was able to drill out the front diff bushing out of its bracket with a hole saw attachment. My front diff bolt sheared inside the diff so I had to tap, drill and extract and luckily I had a tap and die that matched the threads to clean everything up. All in all it was a pretty quick job but I am dog tired now
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Last edited by AlpineM3OldAsMe; 07-02-2018 at 08:23 PM.
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