Thread: What did you do to your e36 today?

  1. #16851
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    Sewed on a steering wheel cover. Old leather was too far gone and was falling off in my hands.


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  2. #16852
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    Quote Originally Posted by MINIz guy View Post
    Sewed on a steering wheel cover. Old leather was too far gone and was falling off in my hands.
    I'll totally pay you to do my wheel.

    Had to BBS mounted with 225/45/17 Nitto Invos. It's my first time with Nittos on either of my cars, so I'm excited to try them out. The BMW comes out of storage on April 23rd, then it gets an alignment. I'm so excited!

  3. #16853
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    Quote Originally Posted by NSBFTW View Post
    I'll totally pay you to do my wheel.

    Had to BBS mounted with 225/45/17 Nitto Invos. It's my first time with Nittos on either of my cars, so I'm excited to try them out. The BMW comes out of storage on April 23rd, then it gets an alignment. I'm so excited!
    Haha, it's way cheaper and easier than you think! Materials cost me $10 total and 2hrs of my time. Made a short video explaining it:

  4. #16854
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    Bought new jack stands and sprayed the inside of the wheel bay.

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    Ordered the vanos rebuild kit... Apparently it's also the right part for the Mclaren F1 (and the M3 only.) Of course, that needs two.

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    Last edited by Bm house; 04-12-2019 at 12:30 PM.

  6. #16856
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    Quote Originally Posted by MINIz guy View Post


    Sewed on a steering wheel cover. Old leather was too far gone and was falling off in my hands.


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    What is that white handle? Is that long shifter? Doesn’t that make throws less precise?


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  7. #16857
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    Quote Originally Posted by verobeach97 View Post
    What is that white handle? Is that long shifter? Doesn’t that make throws less precise?


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    Knockoff Jaffster shift knob. I have a short shifter in there that lowers the shift knob height more than I'd like using a stock knob. Shifts are shorter than stock but not "short shifter" short, and I have lots of leverage so the shifts are butter smooth.

  8. #16858
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    Thank you Miniz. I have a short shifter too and I am kinda over the short ZHP style knob myself. But I was worried shifting would get too sloppy with longer handle. Where do I buy this shifter?


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  9. #16859
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    Think my car is done-so. Went to drop the subframe this afternoon and lowering the car on to jack stands hear a bunch of crunching and car starts tilting.... Right rear jack point is rusted and collapsing.

  10. #16860
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    Quote Originally Posted by verobeach97 View Post
    Thank you Miniz. I have a short shifter too and I am kinda over the short ZHP style knob myself. But I was worried shifting would get too sloppy with longer handle. Where do I buy this shifter?


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    The shift knob can be found at Bimmerworld. The short shifter is an eBay item. Gotta balance out the quality with the knockoffs.

  11. #16861
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanniepoo View Post
    Think my car is done-so. Went to drop the subframe this afternoon and lowering the car on to jack stands hear a bunch of crunching and car starts tilting.... Right rear jack point is rusted and collapsing.
    Would it be possible up just put a piece of 2x4 down the entire side of the car to distribute the load? I'm not sure how much strength there is in the body. Not dying is fairly important to me.

    I'd rather not try to sell the car as is. Needs a new driveshaft so it's sellability is low, particularly with this new issue. I also bought all the parts for the rear end, so I'd need to sell those.
    If I can find a way to support the car to get this fix done, it'll make the car much more sellable, or I may decide to just keep driving it.

    I don't think it's worth taking to a body shop to get it fixed.
    Last edited by Nanniepoo; 04-15-2019 at 10:23 AM.

  12. #16862
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    I wouldn’t trust a car supported by wood 2x4. Too much risk and high chance for wood to slip. If you’re handy with a welder or can hire some mobile help, perhaps they could cut out the rail at the jack point and weld in some steel to reinforce the area while the car is jacked at the rear and front subframes. Based on the photos and your description, I’d be cutting my loses and either sell the rear end parts or find a cleaner e36 to swap parts to if you intend to stick with the platform.

  13. #16863
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twistytee View Post
    I wouldn’t trust a car supported by wood 2x4. Too much risk and high chance for wood to slip. If you’re handy with a welder or can hire some mobile help, perhaps they could cut out the rail at the jack point and weld in some steel to reinforce the area while the car is jacked at the rear and front subframes. Based on the photos and your description, I’d be cutting my loses and either sell the rear end parts or find a cleaner e36 to swap parts to if you intend to stick with the platform.
    That's how I'm feeling. My old E36 was a '94 and suffered the same fate about 4 years ago so I think I'm done with E36s unfortunately. A con of living in Michigan I suppose...

    Maybe one of these days when I have spare funds and time I'll take a road trip and pick up a project car from down south

  14. #16864
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanniepoo View Post
    Think my car is done-so. Went to drop the subframe this afternoon and lowering the car on to jack stands hear a bunch of crunching and car starts tilting.... Right rear jack point is rusted and collapsing.
    Get some sheet metal, a mig welder and fix it?

  15. #16865
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanniepoo View Post
    That's how I'm feeling. My old E36 was a '94 and suffered the same fate about 4 years ago so I think I'm done with E36s unfortunately. A con of living in Michigan I suppose...

    Maybe one of these days when I have spare funds and time I'll take a road trip and pick up a project car from down south
    If you find something in FL post in the regional forums and one of us will take a look for you. Tons FS cars down here without rust issues tho they are often very neglected conditions.


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  16. #16866
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiberFast View Post
    Get some sheet metal, a mig welder and fix it?
    Honestly I'd love if I could just do this. But....1. I have extremely limited welding experience. 2. Less than a year into home ownership and it needs some serious TLC. 3. Less than 2 years into marriage and babies are likely on the way, and from previous experience a E36 coupe isn't the most baby friendly. 4. Car has a litany of other minor issues, but I've fallen behind on maintenance, so things like rust just kill my motivation to give the car the maintenance it deserves.

    Killer is the car barely saw any of the last 3 winters because it was down for maintenance/me finding time.

  17. #16867
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    Quote Originally Posted by verobeach97 View Post
    If you find something in FL post in the regional forums and one of us will take a look for you. Tons FS cars down here without rust issues tho they are often very neglected conditions.


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    Much appreciated. I do consider the E36 as my true first car. I had a Buick LeSabre for 2 years (I think) courtesy of my dad, but bought my first E36 in college and learned basically everything I know about cars on it. Second E36 was in better condition but also met the same rusty fate. I'd like to return to it someday when I have more free time and not trying to maintain a 20yr old car as a DD.

  18. #16868
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    Installed a 3 spoke wheel, a new set of euro taillights, and refreshed my m50 intake manifold that's waiting to be installed

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  19. #16869
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    Unsettled.jpg
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    The list is too long. Deciding on wheel spacers... Is 15mm front 10mm rear too much? Looks like it would clear with a little roll... Next project is finally fixing the clutch.

  20. #16870
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiberFast View Post
    The list is too long. Deciding on wheel spacers... Is 15mm front 10mm rear too much? Looks like it would clear with a little roll... Next project is finally fixing the clutch.
    Depends on width and offset. I have 20mm all around on 9" wheels with 41mm offset. Barely clears with a roll, but it's great for autocross.

  21. #16871
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockDots View Post
    Depends on width and offset. I have 20mm all around on 9" wheels with 41mm offset. Barely clears with a roll, but it's great for autocross.
    Mildly dropped on bavarian auto springs (Ill give them a try and report) with 17x8.5's et40 with 225/45/17 tires. Ill go to a wider tire later, these wheel studs will take up to a 30mm spacer so... I am thinking 20mm might be the way? I like how your car looks LockDots but its stock height right?

    https://www.amazon.com/KSP-Hubcentri...ype=automotive

    Considering reducing the weight with a bigger hole... Not use the shitty bolts... They were obviously made in china, but so is 90% of the rebadged crap we put on our cars. What do you guy think? Anyone roll these KSP pieces?
    Last edited by FiberFast; 04-18-2019 at 02:40 AM.

  22. #16872
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiberFast View Post
    Mildly dropped on bavarian auto springs (Ill give them a try and report) with 17x8.5's et40 with 225/45/17 tires. Ill go to a wider tire later, these wheel studs will take up to a 30mm spacer so... I am thinking 20mm might be the way? I like how your car looks LockDots but its stock height right?

    https://www.amazon.com/KSP-Hubcentri...ype=automotive

    Considering reducing the weight with a bigger hole... Not use the shitty bolts... They were obviously made in china, but so is 90% of the rebadged crap we put on our cars. What do you guy think? Anyone roll these KSP pieces?
    No, i'm lowered on coilovers. The picture in my signature is old, and even then I was lowered on Koni shocks with Eibach springs. It looks like I'm higher than normal because I was mid turn. Also, I wouldn't use those bolts. The spacers, maybe but not the bolts. You're converted to studs though so you should be fine.



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    Last edited by LockDots; 04-18-2019 at 05:37 AM.

  23. #16873
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockDots View Post
    No, i'm lowered on coilovers. The picture in my signature is old, and even then I was lowered on Koni shocks with Eibach springs. It looks like I'm higher than normal because I was mid turn. Also, I wouldn't use those bolts. The spacers, maybe but not the bolts. You're converted to studs though so you should be fine.



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    Yep I'm good with that. Your car looks proper. So the way I am seeing it, I went from a 7" rim to an 8.5" and the ET is more or less the same (I think the style 30's are et41?) So a 20mm spacer 0.75"ish should push my wheel center line exactly where it was with the stock rim with the exception that the wheels are now sticking out 3/4" (0.75") on either side. Seems right, glad I didn't go with a 15-10, you need at least a 17.5mm for the fronts.
    Last edited by FiberFast; 04-19-2019 at 11:12 AM.

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  25. #16875
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    Dont flame me because it looks like a shit pile at the moment lol I'm testing out the color scheme and nothing is mounted so hence why it looks so poor, just trying to get a feel for the final look. Also was doing the machining work today on my wheel faces for 3 piece.

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