NH Oil Undercoating for precautionary measures.
Over the weekend i did the last wash before the winter and pulled the engine to service and upgrade it
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I took it somewhere and for $123 they did a much better job than I could have done myself. Although, I probably wouldn't have sprayed every piece of painted metal under the hood like they did. Oh well. Averys Automotive in St Lapeer, Michigan might be worth checking out even if you plan on doing it yourself since they might be able to sell you the product directly.
Endless ME20 brake pads arrived. Need to get the wheels off, inspect the front pad life, & grease the slider pins. Hope to find the time tomorrow.
Thanks. My car will likely be down for the majority of the winter as I'll be replacing the driveshaft and doing a lot of rear subframe work. I'd like to get everything coated after to keep all the new bits looking nice. Front suspension is only 2 years old too. Have a bit of surface rust at my rear fenders. Really just want to make the car last a long as possible considering all the work/money I'll soon be dumping into it. Last E36 I got rid of primarily due to rust and lost confidence in my ability to jack it up safely.
installed a short shifter i got off amazon.. reverse wont engage.. installed the stock one back in
Yep. Buy cheap, buy twice.
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Zipped the window back in after sewing the zipper back.to the roof.
Fooled with the vert roof bungee fix . Have to sew the bar in the front a bit still.
Dreading changing my intermittent starter . Just keep looking at that intake manifold gasket an my bench. I need to pull off. Long weekend coming .
Ordered a new center vent off ebay - busted the center part gotta pull radio and some other bits this weekend too.
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This car is AWESOME !!!
Do it from under the car and you won't have to take the manifold off. You'll just need some long extensions.
I didn't get a chance to wash it, but maybe the weather will be in the 50s next week....until that time, back onto the trickle charger for a while. They've already salted the roads in MD.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Finished up my cooling system overhaul. Z3M X-Line, Diesel fan, Stewart pump, new thermo and housing, hoses, clamps, BMW blue... Made a simple bracket to mount the expansion tank as well.
Also had to make new lines and re-locate the oil cooler since it did not fit where it was originally mounted due to the thicker radiator.
Turbo E36 M3 with all the things..
POR-15'd the trunk.
New rear tires, same 215/35/18 ATR sports, headed in for an alignment as well, shooting for zero rear toe and -1* rear camber at my height. Thinking I am going to keep the front alignment the same at -5* camber and an 1/8th inch toe out.
Finishing my winter prep work in anticipation of doing some wet track days.
VCG and plugs
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Trying to put together a parts list and order today as BavAuto has 10% off. Fortunately also get a 10% off coupon so I don't need to get everything in one shot.
Was hoping to get under the car before ordering to check things out, but garage has been cleared out and then filled back up multiple times due to the holidays.
Definitely need:
Driveshaft, likely guibo (gonna order from wholesaleimportparts.com)
Rear bearings (FAG in cart)
All rear bushings except for RTABs as they were done ~3 years ago, however since I'll need another alignment I could be talked into it. Have street powerflex rear subframe bushings (set of 4) and Megan adjustable camber arms in the cart.
Unfortunately realoem won't load at all at work, and I get a pop-up on my phone but I'm a little confused on the difference between the subframe bushings and diff bushings. Also on how the control arm bushings work. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
It's my DD, will probably never ever see the track. But I'm open to cost appropriate upgrades.
I'll look at the overhaul FAQ and use that numbering scheme to clarify what I need/already have. I know the camber arms already have a bushing in them (I think inner). But I know some bushings can be replaced with ball joints.
I will have access to a press at work but ideally the more I can get done in my garage the better.
So I have #3, 4, 6, 7, 10 (which comes with 11), and 16.
Need to make some decisions on 5, 8, and 12. I believe 8 is the one that can be replaced with a ball joint (5).
Also need the diff bushings 15, and "ears" which are not numbered.
Your Full Rear bushing / Ball Joint Checklist goes:
- Upper Inner
- Upper Outer
- Lower Inner
- Lower Outer
- Sway Bushings
- Sub-frame Bushings
- RTABS
- Diff Bushings
For whats its worth, Im poly everwhere and it isnt too bad over OEM. Poly install is much easier as well. Also, for all the Non M'ers out there. The outer lower bushings can be upgraded to part # 33326775551, which is other wise just the upper outer. For some reason BMW uses some god awful bushing in the outer lower position for the 325/8's.
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I finally caved and bought an "aftermarket" radio. My OEM C33 worked fine, when it worked, but something inside was loose and shorting or something as when i would hit any moderate sizd bump (which in los angeles can be alot) it would shut off. To the point where i would have to input the radio code, reboot, reprogram my stations, you get the point. Ive been using my Aux-to-tape for the last year or so, so ive been able to avoid it for the most part. But Awhile ago, I came across a thread where someone was able to change the screen of there Alpine head unit to Amber and it matched dead on. I was impressed, so with the further degradation of my OEM unit, i decided to swing for it.
Note: Im an OEM guy, i really wanted to just get a CD43 it and call it a day, but i kept looping back to the fact that i would be paying 200+ for another 20yr old radio that probably cant compete with the output of a modern unit, and is 10x less convenient, aaaaand could potentially crap out on me in who knows how long so i took the plunge down the rabbit hole. one justifying factor was that the OEM Unit is actually made by Alpine so i figured if i purchase a modern alpine unit, its basically the most OEM aftermarket radio you could get.
Ok so the New unit is the Alpine cde-hd149bt, and the thread showing "how to" do the color mod is here:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...to-amber/page2
Here is a screenshot of ^^^ "before picture" i forgot to take one.
Looks good but the main LCD clashes with the Blue/White display
So soldered my conversion harness in (maintains all OEM connectors and ability to swap back to OEM unit)
Did the Mod
& wallah
Super pleased with the results. I was able to secure some red orange film from a forum member, but unfortunately couldnt use the red film. I was able source some film at Autozone for relatively cheap. I bought a red only pack, but they had a pack with both red and orange (needed to make amber).
The Adapter harness was the Metra 70-8590 and literally made it plug and play. You will also need the Metra 40-vw12 Radio adapter
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 11-27-2018 at 02:33 AM.
- Cabin filter! Holy moly what a mess.
- Epoxied the glove box cover. Hope it holds.
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