Thanks for this DIY! Just did mine today on my 540iA. Took me 30mins.
So, I've replaced tensioners on my M42, M30, M50 and M62TU. Basically all the same procedure once you get to it. Solved a cold startup rattle on the M42 at 140k. Same for the M50 at 200k.
Easy and quick to do.
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
650hp 10 X5///M5
PERFORMANCE:JB4 w/ meth, stage 2 tune, wrapped downpipes, custom intake
INTERIOR:AVIN 10.25" screen, Blackvue 550 dashcam, 7" tablet for JB4 logging
EXTERIOR:Niche staggered 20's or AC Forged staggered 22's, H&R 2" suspension, LED AE, CF front splitter
325hp 98 BMW 740iL6
PERFORMANCE:///M5 6spd swap, iron sleeves, L/W Teflon coated & silicone impregnated pistons, Sealed Power rings, 3 angle valvejob, P&P head, perf cams, electric fan, CF intake tube w/aluminium heatshield/wrapped MAF tubing, Magnaflow 14816'd, Eaton M112 in-work
INTERIOR:Android Dynavin, hardwired V1 above rearview, 12" RE Audio DVC sub, MTX 81000D monoblock, CF silver trim, 5% tint
EXTERIOR:///MPar staggered 19's, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, custom notched bumper, Shadowline trim, 750iL brakes w/ Axxis pads
190hp 97 328ci
PERFORMANCE:Single mass flywheel, ///M3 clutch
EXTERIOR:Z4///M staggered 18's, rolled fenders, tinted markers
Replace when you hear a brief start-up rattle which quickly quiets itself. There isn't a specified service interval.
Richard
BMW Convert
Let us redefine "progress" to mean that just because we CAN mod a thing, it does not necessarily follow that we MUST mod that thing.
Thankfully my 98 7 has a completely rebuilt engine w/ no VANOS, and my 01 X hasn't had any engine issues as of yet. This is just good preventative maintenance for a decent price while already tearing into an engine or while doing simple things like changing the oil and/or air filters.
Last edited by m5james; 03-16-2010 at 02:51 PM.
650hp 10 X5///M5
PERFORMANCE:JB4 w/ meth, stage 2 tune, wrapped downpipes, custom intake
INTERIOR:AVIN 10.25" screen, Blackvue 550 dashcam, 7" tablet for JB4 logging
EXTERIOR:Niche staggered 20's or AC Forged staggered 22's, H&R 2" suspension, LED AE, CF front splitter
325hp 98 BMW 740iL6
PERFORMANCE:///M5 6spd swap, iron sleeves, L/W Teflon coated & silicone impregnated pistons, Sealed Power rings, 3 angle valvejob, P&P head, perf cams, electric fan, CF intake tube w/aluminium heatshield/wrapped MAF tubing, Magnaflow 14816'd, Eaton M112 in-work
INTERIOR:Android Dynavin, hardwired V1 above rearview, 12" RE Audio DVC sub, MTX 81000D monoblock, CF silver trim, 5% tint
EXTERIOR:///MPar staggered 19's, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, custom notched bumper, Shadowline trim, 750iL brakes w/ Axxis pads
190hp 97 328ci
PERFORMANCE:Single mass flywheel, ///M3 clutch
EXTERIOR:Z4///M staggered 18's, rolled fenders, tinted markers
thanks everybody, i got a diagram from the website: www.bmwpartscounter.com #9 is the tensioner. however, i was wondering if anybody replaced the whole assembly. i got the cold rattle noise, sounds like a pulley tensioner but im pretty sure its the timing chain tensioner because the noise goes away after a minute, being the oilpressure builds up. what do you think?
I found a spring that supposed to be the spring for the timing chain tensioner, is this right, http://www.eactuning.com/ssf/part_nu...01%20706%20809 they want 4 bucks.. Is it supposed to replace the tensioner's spring?
Last edited by sickdeathshappe; 03-23-2010 at 07:35 PM.
Have you compared it with the old OEM spring? It WILL be a bit longer, but it also gives me one idea. A lot of us changed the tensioner to get rid of that phukin' rattle on startup and it almost had no effect (more or less). What if you put another spring that is even more longer and stiffer. You know....., just to push the tensioner even more against the chain. Keep it there for a few days and listen to the engine upon startups. Anyone interested, huh?
BTW: The spring in the pic doesn't look like the one from the tensioner if I remember correctly.
Last edited by Geralt; 04-13-2010 at 11:35 AM.
540i 6speed.
I gotta wonder about some things. I replaced my tensioner in January, and I now have a rattle for about two seconds upon startup that sounds like chain slap. Are new tensioners known to fail? Is there some particular way the tensioner is supposed to be installed, like is that hole in the metal piston supposed to face a certain direction? Something's definitely fishy, and I can't see why I'd have the noise with a new tensioner after it was gone for two months.
Any ideas?
1991 M5 (in progress)
Restoring an old BMW, God help me.
Hi everyone. I just registered today but I've been snooping around for quite some time.
I posted earlier but it doesn't seem to have made it through. So here's my second, shorter attempt:
Regarding the chain tensioner, is it possible for it to also cause an oil leak?
I'm not a BMW owner yet, but I'm considering a very clean 2001 530i 5spd auto with 132, 600 miles and an front engine oil leak that spans the steering rack onto the inner part of the CV boots on both sides (had it on a lift at the dealer but splash pan was in place). My brother thinks it's an older leak (kinda gritty/grimy) but there is some new oil over it. It also has the described "cold start rattle".
I'm hoping the leak could be something as minor as the tensioner (worn seal ring perhaps) and not a front main/crank seal. Or should I be looking somewhere else on the engine? Or forget this candidate all together?
This is a really great site. Thanks for any help.
John
P.S. I also have my eye on a 1999 528i 6spd manual, 116,200 miles. Checking it out on Saturday.
The M62 is the V8, and you're asking about the I6. You'll have better luck using the search feature and/or spending time over on the 3 series boards when it comes to engine issues. They share the same engine as both of the cars you're talking about, not to mention there are thousands more 3 series cars out there vs just about any other BMW on the road.
650hp 10 X5///M5
PERFORMANCE:JB4 w/ meth, stage 2 tune, wrapped downpipes, custom intake
INTERIOR:AVIN 10.25" screen, Blackvue 550 dashcam, 7" tablet for JB4 logging
EXTERIOR:Niche staggered 20's or AC Forged staggered 22's, H&R 2" suspension, LED AE, CF front splitter
325hp 98 BMW 740iL6
PERFORMANCE:///M5 6spd swap, iron sleeves, L/W Teflon coated & silicone impregnated pistons, Sealed Power rings, 3 angle valvejob, P&P head, perf cams, electric fan, CF intake tube w/aluminium heatshield/wrapped MAF tubing, Magnaflow 14816'd, Eaton M112 in-work
INTERIOR:Android Dynavin, hardwired V1 above rearview, 12" RE Audio DVC sub, MTX 81000D monoblock, CF silver trim, 5% tint
EXTERIOR:///MPar staggered 19's, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, custom notched bumper, Shadowline trim, 750iL brakes w/ Axxis pads
190hp 97 328ci
PERFORMANCE:Single mass flywheel, ///M3 clutch
EXTERIOR:Z4///M staggered 18's, rolled fenders, tinted markers
Well, here's something folks can check if the noise/rattle is intermittent.
Make sure your oil filter is properly seated. Mine was not. Apparently there's a check valve underneath it or soemthing. Anyways, I (knocking on wood) haven't heard the noise since my indie reseated my oil filter and such. He says it's good to go. So far, he's right.
Not saying this is common. Just saying to check it if you aren't sure.
1991 M5 (in progress)
Restoring an old BMW, God help me.
I just installed my tensioner today and I wanted to give everyone a little tip to help eliminate the 5 sec startup rattle. Before installing the tensioner open it up to the point where you can see the spring and fill it 50% of the way with fresh synthetic oil, reassemble and install. (don't worry if some oil comes dripping out...the point is too create pressure in the spring chamber)
anyone know of a DIY write up on replacing the guide rails?
Hey I was wondering because of this rattle, Does that mean the guide rails, timing chain, tensioner all need to be replace? because its worn? i got 48K miles
I just wanted to report on my tensioner issues:
I bought a new tensioner earlier this year to install to try and eliminate a random timing chain rattle on startup. A few people have posted saying when they removed their original tensioner, there was little to no resistance when compressing the spring inside the tensioner. After they replaced with a new tensioner, the noise was gone....
I removed mine and found the old tensioner and new tensioner had the exact same resistance when compressing the tensioner by hand. The springs both felt exactly the same. I decided to reinstall my original tensioner and planned on looking into other causes.
I didn't end up selling the new tensioner I bought so during my recent oil change I figured I would throw the new tensioner in for the hell of it. It couldn't hurt. They both still felt the same, but I installed it anyways.
The noise is gone! I'm kicking myself for not installing it sooner. The point of this post is to let everyone know the spring pressure may not have anything to do with the tensioner being bad. It works on oil pressure so the spring is not the critical part of this.
Last edited by CSVT1214; 10-07-2010 at 07:41 PM.
Tony
1998 SVT Contour (B/MNB) #542 3L
2000 SVT Contour (SF/MNB) #1533
2003 BMW 540i M-Sport (6 spd)
2002 Lexus IS300 SOLD!!
E39 4/5/6
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Run 0w40 Mobil1 oil, maybe do an engine flush with Seafoam, and if all else fails, at least the tensioner replacement isn't a hard job and a far cheaper fix than replacing the VANOS.
650hp 10 X5///M5
PERFORMANCE:JB4 w/ meth, stage 2 tune, wrapped downpipes, custom intake
INTERIOR:AVIN 10.25" screen, Blackvue 550 dashcam, 7" tablet for JB4 logging
EXTERIOR:Niche staggered 20's or AC Forged staggered 22's, H&R 2" suspension, LED AE, CF front splitter
325hp 98 BMW 740iL6
PERFORMANCE:///M5 6spd swap, iron sleeves, L/W Teflon coated & silicone impregnated pistons, Sealed Power rings, 3 angle valvejob, P&P head, perf cams, electric fan, CF intake tube w/aluminium heatshield/wrapped MAF tubing, Magnaflow 14816'd, Eaton M112 in-work
INTERIOR:Android Dynavin, hardwired V1 above rearview, 12" RE Audio DVC sub, MTX 81000D monoblock, CF silver trim, 5% tint
EXTERIOR:///MPar staggered 19's, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, custom notched bumper, Shadowline trim, 750iL brakes w/ Axxis pads
190hp 97 328ci
PERFORMANCE:Single mass flywheel, ///M3 clutch
EXTERIOR:Z4///M staggered 18's, rolled fenders, tinted markers
While the spring is the thing that people notice the most, don't forget that the clearances for the piston could be different from your old vs new. That will also improve the tension it applies.
If you haven't replaced it, I would. They changed the spring and improved the design. It's easy and worth doing.
"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti"
The part is around $55, and potentially can also protect your chain rails from damage as well. Whether it gets rid of the start up rattle or not, consider it "preventive maintenance".
It worked for me on my 540. It greatly reduced the incidence of the start up rattle, and the few times it still happens, it is much quieter.
2001 540 M-Sport (cdn), ST X (KW) coilovers, H&R 15mm spacers, Eibach anti roll bars (28mm/18mm), Beastpower rear antiroll bar brackets, M5 rear chassis reinforcements (traction rods), Strong Strut front upper strut bar, Dinan Stage 1 software, factory M-Audio subs, Bavsound speaker upgrade, Bluebus bluetooth integration, Stop Tech SS brake lines, ATE coated brake rotors, ATE ceramic brake pads.
Hello,
New to this site and to BMW.
I build, repair, and customize many other makes but, like I said, new to BMW.
My 99 540i all of a sudden started making a noise like a rattle or even a bad tick (can't really decifer) from right in the front of the passenger side head like under the oil filler cap.
Could it be the tensioner? would it be a good place to start?
Please help, its a wicked cool car and I just want it to be somewhat nice to me... at least until I get more familier.
Thanks,
Eddie
Hi Guys
I am going to change my tensioner this coming week, My question is I have that normal tapping noise that the M62TU V8 is known for but my noise continues while the car is warmed up. The previous own had the Guide rail and Chain replaced as well as Vanos Solenoid seal replaced.
Has any of you guys that have the continue tapping noise noticed a long term noise reduction from changing the Tensioner.
Also does the Tensioner replacement kit come with all the seals needed or do I have to order them as well.
Any help would be great
Thanks guys
Addam
Was there a rattling noise that developed before replacing tensioner. What I read on this forum that the VANOS may be bad. Researched all nite and could not find info about 1999 540i VANOS only tensioners and guides.
i did the repair also
I had a rattle last winter and when i reved the engine it souded like something broke loose the rattle got really worse
I thought it was the oil beeding from the tensioner i GUESS ill have to drop the pan and check for plastic in the oil pan
so to clarify this for me,
are this tensioner's oem? that we purchase from online?
i have a 2001 bmw x5 v8 and i have the 3-4 sec knocking/rattle then it goes away,
(i have 170k miles)
i had the x5 for about 1 year 1/2 and did change oil with some full syntetic brand and oil filter some brand from kragen,
and few days ago when the time come up to change oil ,i purchased the oem bmw filter and oil.
so now i want to test few days if that knocking/rattle went away,,from what i was reading in the forum,oil may have to do with it also.
but i may change that tensioner also,now are they oem or any of them are okay to buy?
thanks....
Last edited by bosanci28; 09-03-2011 at 11:29 PM.
2008 Bmw 750LI
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