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Thread: EWS 3.3 101: Why your car won't start, and, why your mechanic and friends are wrong

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    EWS 3.3 101: Why your car won't start, and, why your mechanic and friends are wrong

    OK based on the increasing number of sad E39's that are being picked up lately with various "no start" conditions, and, the number of those that are coming into the hands of BMW virgins, and getting advice from non-BMW shadetree as well as professional mechanics, and, in the interest of saving typing and repetition...

    It seems time for an "BMW EWS 3.3 - 101 Class".

    Lets run down very basics in the form of the good ol' "FAQ":

    1. What is EWS? What's a DME? What is DMZ? Whatever happened to RunDMC?

    EWS is BMW's 'brand' for their immobilizer systems. E39's have version 3.3. There is an "EWS Module" that is the brains of the system, however it talks to other parts of the car as well.

    DME is BMW speak for the engine computer aka ECU in generic car-world.

    DMZ is "Demilitarized Zone". It is irrelevant to this conversation. RunDMC seem to have a website here: www.rundmc.com

    2. QUICK! I'm a millennial flake with no attention span!
    What's the shortest summary you can give me as to how it works!?!?
    I can only read things on my phone for a maximum of 90 seconds before I have to go watch some random guy play video games and make unfunny jokes!

    As simple as I can make it, the core of EWS 3.3 is 2 critical processes.

    1. EWS-Key-Starter: First, EWS exchanges "passwords" with a key in the ignition. If the key is 'valid' then the starter will turn.
    2. EWS-DME-Fuel/Ignition: Then and only then, EWS exchanges "passwords" with the DME. If the EWS/DME validates, then the fuel and ignition is turned on.

    Aside from those core steps, there are a couple other 'secondary' requirements for the starter to fire.

    • Car can't be locked and armed (EWS communicating with central locking / alarm system).
    • Automatic cars need to be in P/N, and USA manuals need the clutch switch to be triggered.
    • There is an OBC 'lockout' code on equipped cars where you can put in a password to lock the EWS regardless of having a good key. Nobody EVER uses this, but if they do a message will be displayed on the MID display.


    Go watch your videos. I'll wait here.

    3. OK I'm back from watching bootiefries play FartNight... Did you hear that joke he made about Kanye?! ZOMG ROTFL. Anyway.
    My starter don't turn. Is it EWS? Do I have to resync it!? They told me that will fix it!!!

    It could be EWS. Naturally it could also be the starter or wiring problems.

    IF it is EWS, then it is in Step 1 - EWS-KEY VALIDATION. Therefore it has nothing (yet) to do with the EWS-DME sync. Get the starter to turn first. Then worry about the DME sync.

    The best thing to do in that case is get someone to scan the EWS with a tool called INPA and scan for errors as well as look at "Internal State" and "Actual Key". This will tell you very clearly if EWS is recognizing the key in the ignition and validating its passwords, and, is preventing the starter from turning, and, if so, why.

    The most common reasons why EWS might be preventing the starter are, simply the transmission interlocks (P/N/clutch), or, car was attempted to be started with a super dead battery, and the key itself had its 'changing password' corrupted.

    4. No wait, that isn't my problem... in fact
    MY starter turns, but engine doesn't fire. Is it EWS? Do I have to resync it?

    It could be EWS. IF it is EWS, then it is in Step 2 - EWS-DME VALIDATION. Yes possibly you could need to resync it.

    The best thing to do in that case is get someone to scan the DME and EWS with a tool called INPA and check error messages. If the DME/EWS are failing to authenticate then errors will tell you so.

    The most common reasons why EWS might be failing DME sync is that the car was attempted to be started with only one of EWS or DME connected, and therefore the 2 units got out of sync. A low battery start attempt might also cause this to occur. Good news is, if it is purely a sync issue, it is quickly solved using any software tool that can do a resync - most commonly INPA or 'PASoft', but also DIS and some other aftermarket software.

    5. Hang on go back a step..
    I DID have a key problem. What do I do?

    Depends on what the problem is. The EWS talks to the key via a 'ring antenna'. The passwords constantly change every time you start the car - this is to prevent somebody from stealing your key for 3 minutes (or having your key in a Valet or auto shop etc ) , cloning it, then returning it and then having a key that will work (aka that clone key will not work after you've started the car even once with the real key).

    If EWS is telling you that the key is invalid and you have 'key changing code' errors then then you have a couple options.

    1. You can buy a new key from the dealer, and, assuming all else is fine, normally this will immediately start the car. Although expensive, if you only have 1 key there's some logic for doing this. But it doesn't fix your old key.
    2. You can find someone who can do EWS/key recoding and get them to try to resync the key and EWS. This can't be done in-car, the EWS has to come out and be put on the bench. However it can often result in a 'good as new' situation.
    3. The "not advised" option is you can read down to the "What about EWS delete" section...

    What you can not do by the way is reprogram a used key from another car, without carving the immob chip out of it and replacing it with a virgin one. Several things are permanently burned into the key chip (VIN for one) and those cannot be changed. You can only totally program a virgin key/chip, or, you can reset a key that already has your VIN and permanent password in it.

    6. This all sounds like bullcrap to me man!
    Can't I just bypass EWS with a quick wiring job? I read on BummerForums / 5chan / InfoWars that all you have to do is hotwire it right bro? YOLO! I already removed my cats and put on CAI! I can feel the extra butt dyno HP from EWS delete already!

    Yes, yes you can. Just splice all the EWS wires together and then you will get +13.7whp guaranteed, and your mileage will go up too. But make sure to tie all the wires together in one big splice. Probably best if you solder them up in a lump.

    No, not really. That was being ironic.

    Basically the only way to do a complete EWS delete is to:

    1. Re-wire starter trigger around the EWS (indeed a 'semi-hotwire' of the starter trigger...) However this only defeats Step 1 - EWS-Key-Starter trigger.
    2. Remove the DME, and have it reflashed with a custom hacked EWS-delete program. How this is done specifically is ECU specific. For M62's for instance, it isn't cheap because "its a secret".


    There might be a case for #1 in some situation where you really can't justify fixing the key-sync issue properly... but... mostly... really why not just fix it properly...?

    7. But my buddy / shadetree mechanic / internet video says for sure that..
    My ECU must be bad, that's gotta be why car won't start?! Are they total idiots??

    Yes, very probably they are.

    It is obviously not impossible. But the Bosch & Siemens DME's in E39's are really well made and robust and seldom burn up unless some of the output wires have been really well shorted out.

    Even when a DME goes hardware-bad, it is far more common to see it start but then throw codes because of the pins that shorted and burnt out. Total no-start / no-respond is pretty rare occurrence.

    Some techs who don't know much will also suggest "try reflashing the DME". Because the DME has a whole number of checksums in it to 'watch' for corruption, its highly unlikely the DME flash has gotten corrupted without throwing a code, so this is a very "low percentage play call". You can always give it a try. Hey it won't work but its your time not mine so what do I give a crap.

    IF truly dash lights don't come on with the ignition, and the DME doesn't respond to any diagnostic tools it could be dead. But you really should check DME fuses first. And if it seems dead you still might want to send it to somebody who can try and bench test it and see if it will clone over to a used one.

    8. OK A-hole wiseguy....
    My ECU really was bad, and I tossed in a junkyard one, how I get it to starts!?!?

    EWS and DME have rolling-code tables that have to match. You can toss a used DME in the car, but you need to either bench reflash it completely, or, take the EWS it is matched to.... and guess what? That EWS is matched to the other cars keys, so, you need to take all the keys and lock cylinders too etc. etc..

    Swapping the DME/EWS/keys into a car is really 90% of the time a stupid idea that takes more work and effort and leaves you with a mess (VIN's in the keys and modules that don't match the car, most of the time door locks that don't match the ignition keys unless you do all that swap work as well). It really is a crappy idea.

    The way to put a used DME in a car is:

    1. IDEALLY the old DME still boots up at all even if its a mess otherwise. If that's the case, someone who has the gear can clone that right over to your used one and then have it starting the car in no-time. You'll have to resync EWS when it is installed but after that it will work just like new.
    2. Alternatively, the used DME can be "virginized" and then resync'd with the existing EWS. This is the solution if the original DME is unavailable or truly dead.

    9. What should I really do instead of reading this, and instead of self-pleasuring myself to TMZ videos of Kardashians?
    You should be really just be reading this, starting on page 19 for E38/39 cars with EWS 3.3...

    http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/BMW_EWS.pdf

    10. Are there any other exceptions or oddball variations to the stuff above?

    Sure. Here are some...

    For 'no starter' conditions, E39 Automatic 540i's with the "autostart" feature (you turn the key to 'starter' and let go and the starter will run magically until engine catches) actually have the DME trigger the starter motor. So on those cars, if starter isn't triggering, the DME itself indeed is involved in the process, via a relay behind the glove box. So even if EWS-Key sync is fine, and the starter itself is fine, the DME or relay indeed might have an issue.


    If the EWS doesn't see any key at all, or is showing sporadic weird results, then there's a chance that the ring antenna is bad or the wiring connector has gone bad or something. That can happen.

    If all else is 'known good', then there's a longer shot that the EWS module itself is bad. Longer shot but possible.

    If you're trying to fix an EWS-key sync issue by having somebody re-program the EWS and key, some of the EWS have chips that can't be programmed by the normal programmers. So theres a chance whoever you ask to do this says "oops I can't do this one".
    Last edited by geargrinder; 02-25-2019 at 10:21 AM.
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  2. #2
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    GG, want me to move this up to E39 common problems and DIY?

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    Nice! A very timely, worthwhile, & entertaining post. Thanks, GG. This'll go into my saved file.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    GG, want me to move this up to E39 common problems and DIY?
    Whatever you think best Jim!
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    Broke my key off and had to use a dent puller to remove it. The Home Depot made me a new key. The key turns(kinda hard) but now it won't start.

    A neighbor who is handy says my battery is too low but he can jump start it with his truck mounted welder.
    Should I just delete the EWS?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post

    [/INDENT]

    4. No wait, that isn't my problem... in fact
    MY starter turns, but engine doesn't fire. Is it EWS? Do I have to resync it?

    It could be EWS. IF it is EWS, then it is in Step 2 - EWS-DME VALIDATION. Yes possibly you could need to resync it.

    The best thing to do in that case is get someone to scan the DME and EWS with a tool called INPA and check error messages. If the DME/EWS are failing to authenticate then errors will tell you so.

    The most common reasons why EWS might be failing DME sync is that the car was attempted to be started with only one of EWS or DME connected, and therefore the 2 units got out of sync. A low battery start attempt might also cause this to occur. Good news is, if it is purely a sync issue, it is quickly solved using any software tool that can do a resync - most commonly INPA or 'PASoft', but also DIS and some other aftermarket software.
    One addendum I’d add is that I’ve seen a few cases where the presentation is that the car won’t start, EWS resync fixes it, and then a short while later (10 starts or so), it stops working again. In some cases the EWS module is replaced, but the same issue continues. From what I’ve seen, that situation happens when one of the two fuses that go to the EWS module fails. Seems like that situation allows the EWS to sync and transmit data, but prevents the code from rolling over.

    Also a bit of probably useless trivia: the communication between the EWS and DME is unidirectional. The EWS calculates its start code from the ISN and sends that to the DME. The DME calculates its own code and compares the received data. If the result matches the calculation, a start is allowed. The DME can’t “talk back” to the EWS module to compare notes so to speak. That’s why the EWS doesn’t turn off the starter if the code doesn’t match - it simply doesn’t know if there isn’t a match. Also why a sync procedure is required - no other way to ensure the modules are on the same page.

    With EWS4, they changed to a bidirectional link (with a fall back to the can bus on top of that). That’s why a sync procedure is no longer required, the two systems figure it out on their own.
    Last edited by TerraPhantm; 02-25-2019 at 12:19 PM.

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    geargrinder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Broke my key off and had to use a dent puller to remove it. The Home Depot made me a new key. The key turns(kinda hard) but now it won't start.

    A neighbor who is handy says my battery is too low but he can jump start it with his truck mounted welder.
    Should I just delete the EWS?
    EXACTLY. About 10 of those in the last month or so inspired this...

    Quote Originally Posted by TerraPhantm View Post
    One addendum I’d add is that I’ve seen a few cases where the presentation is that the car won’t start, EWS resync fixes it, and then a short while later (10 starts or so), it stops working again. In some cases the EWS module is replaced, but the same issue continues. From what I’ve seen, that situation happens when one of the two fuses that go to the EWS module fails. Seems like that situation allows the EWS to sync and transmit data, but prevents the code from rolling over.

    Also a bit of probably useless trivia: the communication between the EWS and DME is unidirectional. The EWS calculates its start code from the ISN and sends that to the DME. The DME calculates its own code and compares the received data. If the result matches the calculation, a start is allowed. The DME can’t “talk back” to the EWS module to compare notes so to speak. That’s why the EWS doesn’t turn off the starter if the code doesn’t match - it simply doesn’t know if there isn’t a match. Also why a sync procedure is required - no other way to ensure the modules are on the same page.

    With EWS4, they changed to a bidirectional link (with a fall back to the can bus on top of that). That’s why a sync procedure is no longer required, the two systems figure it out on their own.
    Good stuff.
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    We should all kneel at the feet of the master. Seriously, GG, how do you know all this stuff?

    And why did BMW make it so complicated? It's not like these are missile launch codes. (Our '95 Discovery starter wouldn't turn over recently. Something in the power lock circuit wasn't right and the car wouldn't send power to the starter. In that case I could jump two wires together to by-pass the anti-theft system. Relatively simple. Works fine.)

    So when a friend/relative asks me to help figure out why his BMW won't start, I really want to take INPA with me, don't I?

    And now I'm even more reluctant to consider buying a BMW that won't start (or at least crank and send fuel/spark to the engine).

    Great post.

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    Thankfully I have not had to go down this road of troubleshooting, but this is an example of a fabulous post which will no doubt helpful to many. Thank you GG for laying this out and sharing your vast knowledge.

  11. #11
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R Shaffner View Post
    So when a friend/relative asks me to help figure out why his BMW won't start, I really want to take INPA with me, don't I?
    ABSOLUTELY.

    In fact the messes always get caused when somebody tries to get one of these cars to start WITHOUT trying any of the code reading, which, if it is EWS related, virtually always leaves some kind of paper(less) trail.

    Quote Originally Posted by R Shaffner View Post
    And why did BMW make it so complicated? It's not like these are missile launch codes.
    Well. For one they aren't THAT far off any other automakers. The VAG (VW/Audi) immob systems are equally sophisticated with roughly similar stuff although it generally is more pure key-ECU without the EWS "3rd party". But by adding the "3rd party" module that drastically increases the hassles of trying to hack into a car (can't just swap an ECU and a key from a junkyard car in...) so it does make sense.

    AND. Cars don't get stolen anymore. There's a reason for it. Because this works. BITD even with early 'chip keys' a valet could clone your key and then steal the car tomorrow from your driveway. With all this rolling code stuff, it makes it practically impossible to steal cars.

    If you look at the numbers, around Y2K (that's "year 2000" for millenials...) auto theft started dropping and has plummeted every since, because more and more cars have these systems in them so thieves don't even try, cuz it just doesn't work. They need to steal your keys, that's basically all thats left (that or a flat-bed theft...)

    And, once you get it, its not THAT complicated, but... it requires understanding and... some people have small brains and get mad at having to learn new things so they just want to DELETE IT ALL!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by R Shaffner View Post
    And now I'm even more reluctant to consider buying a BMW that won't start (or at least crank and send fuel/spark to the engine).
    No no man, the opposite!

    Now you should feel informed and knowledgeable that "OK if it won't crank or start maybe its a programming issue that I can diagnose very quickly and resolve without much trouble!"
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    OK. Good points. I like the idea of being able to dive-in where others fear to go, and perhaps getting a good deal because of it. Maybe I'll find a nice M5 that others have given up on...

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    Quote Originally Posted by TerraPhantm View Post
    One addendum I’d add is that I’ve seen a few cases where the presentation is that the car won’t start, EWS resync fixes it, and then a short while later (10 starts or so), it stops working again. In some cases the EWS module is replaced, but the same issue continues. From what I’ve seen, that situation happens when one of the two fuses that go to the EWS module fails. Seems like that situation allows the EWS to sync and transmit data, but prevents the code from rolling over.

    Also a bit of probably useless trivia: the communication between the EWS and DME is unidirectional. The EWS calculates its start code from the ISN and sends that to the DME. The DME calculates its own code and compares the received data. If the result matches the calculation, a start is allowed. The DME can’t “talk back” to the EWS module to compare notes so to speak. That’s why the EWS doesn’t turn off the starter if the code doesn’t match - it simply doesn’t know if there isn’t a match. Also why a sync procedure is required - no other way to ensure the modules are on the same page.

    With EWS4, they changed to a bidirectional link (with a fall back to the can bus on top of that). That’s why a sync procedure is no longer required, the two systems figure it out on their own.
    Hello all could you mention which 2 fuses to check? thanks

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    Something to consider here - forgive me if this is common knowledge (is that still a thing?) - most of the ground and power points (along with an afc/anl fuse panel) for interior electronics are under the drivers / passenger front carpet - right where your soggy boots go in the winter. - have seen a few cases where wires have corroded and broken off - not sure if any of those go to EWS but may be something worth noting for someone t-shooting.

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    I.M.Shamalayan: Thanks for the suggestion - that IS common knowledge around here at least among the veterans, and it is ALWAYS a good suggestion for 'mystery electrics problems'. I will say that it usually doesn't manifest itself so much in the engine-start and certainly not in the EWS-specific related symptoms, but its always worth suggesting and checking.
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    Great info and hyperbolic prose! In paragraph 5 you noted DME resynch can be done on INPA. Exactly how is that done? I'm new to INPA and have heard horror stories. Plus my own experience screwing up the DME by resetting adaptations back in December! Which is why I'm writing.

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    This is great information; especially since I am having this issue. My question does the starting sequence have anything to do with the restrain system, (reason, my car start when the seatbelt symbol in the cluster is off, but will not when it is lit with belt buckle.

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    What could have caused the issue of the keys not being recognized? I have two keys and the car wont crank at all.
    Is it 100% certain that if I get a new key from dealership it will work?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Drbnwaldorf View Post
    Great info and hyperbolic prose! In paragraph 5 you noted DME resynch can be done on INPA. Exactly how is that done? I'm new to INPA and have heard horror stories. Plus my own experience screwing up the DME by resetting adaptations back in December! Which is why I'm writing.
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...0-vagcom-cable

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    Thanks for the thread. I’m learning how the EWS works slowly but surely but I have an odd situation. I will read the FAQ and research more but here goes. 2003 Mini Cooper S that only has one key. I used an AK90+ from eBay after reading many forums.... purchased a new Fob and the PCF7935 transponder chips. Pulled the EWS. Managed to read it and save the BIN file. Write the Key. Laser cut the key (purchased an expensive machine as this may be a sideline business some day) Key will only start the car under the following circumstances. 1) if I start it with the original key first, then within a few seconds, insert the new key it starts just fine. Let it run for a few minutes off position starts just fine. However, if I remove the key from the ignition - it will not restart. I’m really trying hard not to lose my mind. I’ve spent days on this.
    Where can I begin learning more about the DME/EWS sync? I need to know how to do this before I start helping other friends in my mini clubs. Any other practical questions/procedures etc? I also have a VVDI2 programmer - I may try that route next.
    Regards, Spursy

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    Thank you, GG. You just saved me a lot of time and hassle.

    Over the past two weeks I've had intermittent no-crank episodes. It happened one day. Then twice a few days later. Then it started to happen once every 3-4 times I tried to start the car. Happened hot and cold. No apparent reason. Each time I got it started by waiting and trying again and again. Longest delay was about 10 minutes.

    But it was getting worse and I didn't want to get stranded, or be forced to get a tow. I started to track down all the usual no-crank causes. But of course, intermittent problems can be hard to track down and solve. Hard to catch in the act. Battery seemed good. Starter had been replaced fairly recently. I took the steering column cover off and rode around with a multi-meter, so I could check the switch during one of the no-crank episodes. It passed the test -- got voltage on the wire to the starter (via EWS), but no crank.

    Then I remembered this thread. I fired up INPA, went to the EWS section, and found a bunch of errors that had to do with key #0. I cleared the errors and tried my 2 keys many times today. Sure enough, key #0 kept giving me problems, but it has started immediately with key #1 every time so far. I wouldn't have thought of that if I hadn't read this thread.

    So THANK YOU, GG!
    Last edited by R Shaffner; 06-21-2020 at 07:45 PM.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    2000 BMW 540it Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by R Shaffner View Post
    Thank you, GG. You just saved me a lot of time and hassle.

    Over the past two weeks I've had intermittent no-crank episodes. It happened one day. Then twice a few days later. Then it started to happen once every 3-4 times I tried to start the car.

    But it was getting worse and I didn't want to get stranded, or be forced to get a tow. I started to track down all the usual no-crank causes. But of course, intermittent problems can be hard to track down and solve. Hard to catch in the act. Battery seemed good. Starter had been replaced fairly recently. I took the steering column cover off and rode around with a multi-meter, so I could check the switch during one of the no-crank episodes. It passed the test -- got voltage on the wire to the starter (via EWS), but no crank... I wouldn't have thought of that if I hadn't read this thread.

    So THANK YOU, GG!
    I also have been experiencing the exact same symptoms. Used to start right up, now there sometimes is a delay of varying times. Before I found this thread I checked all of the grounds and they looked good. So I used my Foxwell scanner and discovered that my only remaining key (#2) was listed as not being recognized.

    I am wondering if you have found the solution for your issue yet? Did you order a new key? I was considering a new ignition switch and charging ring seeing as they are less than 100.00 in total and seem to be integral to this system working. My key reliably locks and unlocks the car via wireless. And I have also noticed that the key itself seems to be hot after being in the ignition sometimes. And I mean the metal part, not the body. Which also leads me to want to replace the switch.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Lacey, Wa
    Posts
    24
    My Cars
    01 530i
    Just got told my DME and SRS Modules are "corrupted" by a local private german car shop

    I had just repaired the power distribution fuse box from under the carpet/pass seat as a sunroof leak severely corroded it

    The car runs but idles rough and is giving O2 and misfire codes

    I assume this is software?
    If not does anyone have recommendations for module repair?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    AUCKLAND , NEW ZEALAND
    Posts
    258
    My Cars
    E39 525I ,70camaro,
    my car just started playing up, it makes a whirring sound when i turn the ignition, starter probably ,but it doesn't turn over, perhaps bendix not engaging??

    e39
    BMWPOWER

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bay Area, California
    Posts
    1,305
    My Cars
    325iT, 540iT
    Quote Originally Posted by TerraPhantm View Post
    One addendum I’d add is that I’ve seen a few cases where the presentation is that the car won’t start, EWS resync fixes it, and then a short while later (10 starts or so), it stops working again. In some cases the EWS module is replaced, but the same issue continues. From what I’ve seen, that situation happens when one of the two fuses that go to the EWS module fails. Seems like that situation allows the EWS to sync and transmit data, but prevents the code from rolling over.

    Also a bit of probably useless trivia: the communication between the EWS and DME is unidirectional. The EWS calculates its start code from the ISN and sends that to the DME. The DME calculates its own code and compares the received data. If the result matches the calculation, a start is allowed. The DME can’t “talk back” to the EWS module to compare notes so to speak. That’s why the EWS doesn’t turn off the starter if the code doesn’t match - it simply doesn’t know if there isn’t a match. Also why a sync procedure is required - no other way to ensure the modules are on the same page.

    With EWS4, they changed to a bidirectional link (with a fall back to the can bus on top of that). That’s why a sync procedure is no longer required, the two systems figure it out on their own.
    Let's bring this one back from the dead.

    EWS 3 was superseded by EWS 4.3 (which is not, AFAIK, EWS 4). In an interesting twist of fate EWS 4.3 units are known for eventually losing sync with the DME (even if you have the dealer install it). There's even a TSB for the M52TU cars that I've not seen but I think details having to repin a connector. After a bunch of digging I came across a post on bimmerfest that covers someone actually getting an EWS 4.3 unit working long-term in their 325/M56. The key is to fully code the new EWS unit.

    In my case I installed a new $$$ EWS and temporarily lost sync once – crank no start, came back about 5 minutes later and it started up, and then a few days later lost sync completely. I checked the fuses visually and with a multimeter (all fine for the DME and EWS). Looking at the difference in coding data it makes sense that the EWS might be rolling the codes over (or expiring them) more quickly than the DME leading to a brief initial failure. As with most time based codes there's a bit of leeway built in, but if things get too far out of sync you'll land on a hard failure.

    From the bimmerfest post:

    Code:
                                    Old EWS 3       New EWS 4.3
    Coding block                    FD 0A 01 0A 0A  41 FF FF 0A FF 
    Starter motor cut-off speed     33 RPM          850 RPM
    Cut-off time                    2 seconds       510 seconds
    Sharpening(?) time              10 seconds      10 seconds
    Switching condition (EWS *.3)   10              undefined
    OP updated his DME (MS45.1) and copied the coding block over with ISTA and hasn't had a loss of sync since. My old and new coding blocks match what OP posted I figured I'd try that. Unfortunately there's no "code from NETTODAT" for EWS so I "copied" them over with NCS Dummy. The initial trace file was much shorter than the updated one. Time will tell I guess.
    Last edited by blarf; 05-20-2022 at 01:50 PM.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Wilkes-Barre, PA
    Posts
    113
    My Cars
    2000 740iA, 2003 330xiA
    Quote Originally Posted by blarf View Post
    Let's bring this one back from the dead.

    EWS 3 was superseded by EWS 4.3 (which is not, AFAIK, EWS 4). In an interesting twist of fate EWS 4.3 units are known for eventually losing sync with the DME (even if you have the dealer install it). There's even a TSB for the M52TU cars that I've not seen but I think details having to repin a connector. After a bunch of digging I came across a post on bimmerfest that covers someone actually getting an EWS 4.3 unit working long-term in their 325/M56. The key is to fully code the new EWS unit.

    In my case I installed a new $$$ EWS and temporarily lost sync once – crank no start, came back about 5 minutes later and it started up, and then a few days later lost sync completely. I checked the fuses visually and with a multimeter (all fine for the DME and EWS). Looking at the difference in coding data it makes sense that the EWS might be rolling the codes over (or expiring them) more quickly than the DME leading to a brief initial failure. As with most time based codes there's a bit of leeway built in, but if things get too far out of sync you'll land on a hard failure.

    From the bimmerfest post:

    Code:
                                    Old EWS 3       New EWS 4.3
    Coding block                    FD 0A 01 0A 0A  41 FF FF 0A FF 
    Starter motor cut-off speed     33 RPM          850 RPM
    Cut-off time                    2 seconds       510 seconds
    Sharpening(?) time              10 seconds      10 seconds
    Switching condition (EWS *.3)   10              undefined
    OP updated his DME (MS45.1) and copied the coding block over with ISTA and hasn't had a loss of sync since. My old and new coding blocks match what OP posted I figured I'd try that. Unfortunately there's no "code from NETTODAT" for EWS so I "copied" them over with NCS Dummy. The initial trace file was much shorter than the updated one. Time will tell I guess.
    This is currently happening with my E38. I did some reading before performing the upgrade to the EWS 4.3 and saw that the older DME versions can cause the losing sync issue with EWS 4.3. I decided to update my DME which worked. I then installed the EWS 4.3 and performed the sync procedure. Now, weeks later, the car stopped starting. When I realign, it starts.

    Where was this thread you speak of?

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