One of my favorite mods...

[BenFenner]

I just read this whole thread and I'm surprised that nobody talked about the added risks in the case of an accident.

That's because the accordion shape of the aluminum shaft is solely responsible for collapsing in a collision.

[crashgordan]

wouldn't rebuilding with this be better then a hockey puck?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...SUSSTR_pg4.htm

[TurboBimmer]

That's because the accordion shape of the aluminum shaft is solely responsible for collapsing in a collision.

I see.
I tought that the Z3 was like an E30 (didn't have time to explore the Z3 yet, bought it last fall and 2 weeks later she went to storage).
On my E30 there is no accordion section, only the rubber disc at the base. Sorry for the confusion.

[kojohns]

I see.
I tought that the Z3 was like an E30 (didn't have time to explore the Z3 yet, bought it last fall and 2 weeks later she went to storage).
On my E30 there is no accordion section, only the rubber disc at the base. Sorry for the confusion.

In general... the Z3 is an E30 rear-end and E36 front-end

[gmushial]

Speaking as someone who has had a head on collision with a tree, that bushing doesn't do anything.

The corrugated shaft does bend like bendy straw though. I wouldn't worry too much about the bushing tearing out so much as the whole shaft being tied into a knot.

You can probably bend it with your bare hands if you really want to pretend your the hulk.

I second that comment: it's the accordion pleating in the column that is the give - don't think the flex disc it going to buy much in terms of length, in that there is a central locating pin: so even it were to tear the two mounting faces are going to run into each other within an inch. On the other hand, the aluminum column will compress lengthwise, and beyond that if necessary to the side.

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wouldn't rebuilding with this be better then a hockey puck?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...SUSSTR_pg4.htm

Depends on what you're looking for: if you want that total locked down, with no give feel, then yes; but if you want something like the oem disc that has a hint of give, then no. Also, by going to the puck, assuming similar stiffness of rubbers, the oem used 12mm thick arms btwn the mounting points, where the puck is going to be 25mm in the same place, ie, half the give, or twice the "connectedness." [with huge caveat: similar hardness/durometer of rubber - and from my uncalibrated finger, I would say the puck is 1.5x - 2x as hard... other than the b$tch getting the newly replaced one out and putting a puck rebuilt one in, it would be interesting to feel the difference... though I did note in another posting the new/used replacement already had me feeling little things in the road that I never knew were there... wonder if the puck mightn't be too close/closer to the poly disc... but as a community, with our Z's getting old and with more miles, I suspect we haven't heard the end of this.]

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I see.
I tought that the Z3 was like an E30 (didn't have time to explore the Z3 yet, bought it last fall and 2 weeks later she went to storage).
On my E30 there is no accordion section, only the rubber disc at the base. Sorry for the confusion.

The column on the Z3 is unique to the Z3. The others approach the telescoping nature/need in a variety of ways - some literally telescope, with one section sliding splined within another; others do use an accordion section.

[sharky1]

With the metal bushing, you do get slightly more feedback on the highway through the wheel. It isn't much, but if you want stock-like isolation of the wheel, you can try a softer bushing.



The bushing has risen portions where the bolts go through, so it seems thinner. It is actually the same width.



It's pretty simple actually.

First I took the two 10mm nuts for the harness that goes across the cowell and moved it forward, and unplugged the brake booster hose for more access.

It's pretty much just two 13mm bolts, one at each end, holding the lower joint in place (the nuts are part of the couplers, so you don't have to worry about 'em). Just turn the wheel until you see the bolt and have easy access to it (the top one is to the bottom and right of the brake booster). Undo the 13mm bolt.

From under the car, you will see the other end of the lower joint with the bushing. Turn the wheels until that 13mm bolt is easy to get to. Remove that bolt.

Try and move the lower joint a bit to get it unstuck. (The couplers at each end have slits, so you can slightly pry them open, but they won't need much).

Next you will see the steering rack has to bolts holding it to the subframe. The two bolts are 15mm. Hold the nut from the top and unto the two bolts.

Now move the steering rack towards the front of the car a bit and you should be able to remove the lower joint couple from it. Then you can slide off the top coupler near the brake booster.

You will be able to remove the complete lower joint from the top. The bushing is riveted in. You will need to cut through the rivets. Once you do that, just throw the new bushing in and bolt it up. Should go back on easy.


***

Remember how far up the top coupler was connected to the steering column. There is an indent where the bolt goes through it.

Use some anti rust spray at each end of the couple before removing them.

Mark where everything is connected to keep from screwing up your wheel center.

All good, nut is 16MM, not 15MM, easy but...Ive changed these before in other cars, just bolts in, WTF?
I'm thinking hockey puck is ok on RH steering cars....
Got my shaft, etc Ebay fpr $35, it's all good!

[gmushial]

Bolt is 15mm nut is 16mm (or the other way around)... pull 4 bolts, swap, put 4 bolts back in... couldn't be more than 30 mins... that is if there isn't corrosion "welding" the splines together; and one has access ;-)

[saber63]

Would like to do the hockey puck mod on my car. to see if it sharpens up the steering on center. But want to have everything on hand to do it in one go.

What size and length of bolts are needed for this? What size are the holes to be drilled in the puck?


Thanks

[Pyropete82]

Did I miss the website I can get the aluminum giubo at?

[jajou318]

Did I miss the website I can get the aluminum giubo at?

You do not want a solid guibo. Just get an oe replacement.

[Vinci]

I forgot about this thread and have a couple hockey pucks sitting around from another project. Sounds like a good use for them.

How nasty is it to get the rivets out of the old guibo?

[Pyropete82]

A hockey puck is pretty rigid itself, not sure how aluminum would be much different

[jajou318]

A hockey puck is pretty rigid itself, not sure how aluminum would be much different

You have it wrong Pete.

Hockey Puck for steering bushing.

Guibo for Drive Shaft to trans bushing. Which I still wouldn't use the Aluminum version I think from Revshift (I think).

[Pyropete82]

I thought both were called giubos...I'm going to be putting the zhp rack in, while I'm in there I want change the STEERING shaft coupler. Who carries the swap out part? Not interested in OE. I guess I could go with the vorshlag u joint option too

[modernbeat]

The general term for the rubber steering coupler is a "rag joint". The driveshaft or axle coupler with six holes is a "giubo".

[jajou318]

Pete I think he had that one made. Just a block of metal with holes in it.

[Pyropete82]

Ok...then let's get those dimensions on here? Diameter, taper, hole size, thickness?...hole spacing

[jajou318]

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...steering-racks!)

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=457

I really don't know the measurements or much about this mod as I've never done it. I don't think many of us have. It should be similar to the E36/E30 ones though.

[tommy1394]

Posting this for anyone interested....AKG sells aluminum ones for $55.

http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog...2FM%20Steering

[danomite]

You do not want a solid guibo. Just get an oe replacement.

You have it wrong Pete.

Hockey Puck for steering bushing.

Guibo for Drive Shaft to trans bushing. Which I still wouldn't use the Aluminum version I think from Revshift (I think).

I will not cease in my endeavors to make the forums a better place! LOL!!!

It's 'giubo'...not 'guibo'.

It's short for 'giunto boschi', which means 'boschi joint' (imagine if someone wrote 'jiont' instead of 'joint' all of the time). Dr. Boschi was the Alfa Romeo technician who invented it.

Carry on...

[jajou318]

I will not cease in my endeavors to make the forums a better place! LOL!!!

It's 'giubo'...not 'guibo'.

It's short for 'giunto boschi', which means 'boschi joint' (imagine if someone wrote 'jiont' instead of 'joint' all of the time). Dr. Boschi was the Alfa Romeo technician who invented it.

Carry on...

Haha. My phone must not have recognized the proper way to spell it.

[Pyropete82]

Does this e34 part substitute well into the place if this rag joint on the e36?
32 31 1 150 489
Bav Auto sells these for $65

[gmushial]

Does this e34 part substitute well into the place if this rag joint on the e36?
32 31 1 150 489
Bav Auto sells these for $65

It has splines on both ends, the Z doesn't have such :-(

[duckracer]

All, Our latest post's on this subject were removed because I am not a sponsor and can not sell the aluminum steering couplers without becoming a sponsor. I promised a ride report on this due to some concerns of binding. The Z3 steering shaft has two u-joints in it and there should never be any binding. If there is then there is another issue. I am happy to report that I completed and installed mine. There is no binding, and the steering response is much more direct. My ball joints and such are new so there was no major change, but it is very noticeable. All in all a very worthwhile upgrade. Any questions PM or Email me. Thanks

[jajou318]

Didn't think you would be able to sell them but maybe an exception should be made since I know of no other company or sponsor selling them. *shrug*