Hi,
I am thinking about my next upgrade - rear axle 7 bushing replacement.
I hope it will solve my 5% improvement from 90% to 100%
The last 5% i will leave for wheels bearing of course
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...33&fg=30&hl=35
Need to replace :
4 subframe bushings - part 33311091422
1 diff bushing , front - part 33171090389
2 diff bushing , rear - part 33171093008
Questions/suggestion
1. Who has subrame, differential bushing tool for rent ?
I know i can buy it from technictool ( not so cheap )
but maybe somebody can rent it ? Or know better place where to buy ?
2. Who knows good write up for both procedures ? I found only for
touring but nothing for sedan .
3. The better ( and cheaper of course ) place to buy all these 7 bushing
Thanks !
Last edited by champaign777; 04-20-2009 at 12:13 AM.
Good Luck!! If you don't mind me asking, why are you wanting to do this, adn how many miles are on the car?
I replaced all these bushings on my E36 and it was a PITA. Couldn't find the bushing tool for rent, and didn't have access to a press, so I ended up using threaded rod and end caps for pipe. Took me ~20 hours to remove everything from the car and get it all bolted back up. Mind you, I was working solo also, but I had air tools. Would I do this again, or will I do it on my E39......HELL NO. I had over 240k miles on it when I did this. I could barely feel a difference in handling.
ya Jester you disappointed me ...
I only start to think - what to do more for my car ( 85K miles ) ? and you destroyed all my plans in one shot ...
really was so bad ?? The main problem I understood is the correct tool - I am not planning to start it without tool at all
Ya i forget to say - these bushing and wheels bearing are last staff which i didnt replaced on my car
I feel some rear instability on IL roads ... no it's not a vibration its more like a rear movement / pushing / rear road noise
and it is on any speed so these bushing are in my list to replace
Last edited by champaign777; 08-27-2009 at 01:27 AM.
Hmm. Maybe do the rear wheel bearings first. Easier job than subframe bushings! Then if it doesn't get better, move on to the next thing...
cdb how you diff bushing replacement going ? Last time you said you have diff bushing vibration problems - still waiting ?
I am guessing maybe i have these bad too as my shaft drive CV joint was bad and i finally replaced a whole shaft drive ( new OEM )
so maybe my diff mounts are also bad because of shaft drive xmm
I personally think that bushing wear much faster than wheel bearing ...
i think in opposite direction - wheels bearing the last
Last edited by champaign777; 04-20-2009 at 01:30 AM.
I have to pick up the new bushings yet. Haven't started the job. I broke my finger mountain biking yesterday... might put a hitch in my repair! I have to work out a way to get the bushings out yet, but I did get under and look at them. They are definitely bad. I didn't have my camera... but I will get pics when I change them out.
Good luck on your work. Very ambitious, but I have seen you do well in the past! Keep after it! (typing without your left ringfinger takes practice... ugh)
feel well ! - I like bike but i have sport one , mountains are too risky as you see
this is interesting - how you checked your diff bushing ?
dont tell it's not possible like you say for subframe bushing - also where you bought yours ?
for tool i dont ask - i know you have your crazy personal design which i scare to follow
Last edited by champaign777; 04-12-2012 at 12:51 PM.
I checked the diff bushings by raising the car by the diff (the only rear central lift point) and looking at them. Visible cracks!
Subframe bushings I got were Lemfoerder. Got em from BMA parts. I would recommend you talk to Jared though, to see if he has them or can get them. Mostly, because he is such a cool dude.
My personal subframe bushing tool is not for the faint of heart. Of this, I am aware. BEHOLD YOUR FUTURE!!
ya looks like you did mistake than didn't replace your diff mounts - whole rear axle was on the ground no ???
Last edited by champaign777; 04-20-2009 at 01:56 AM.
yeah...........................................
.................................................. ...
I only had a floor jack, so I decided to bolt it up, then I can drop the diff out to get at the bushings. I think there will be enough room. Trust me, I thought about it before I put everything back together!!
So guys who have this miracle tools for rear sedan bushing and rear diff mounts ?
I will pay for the rent !
Any help comrades ??
Last edited by champaign777; 04-20-2009 at 08:53 PM.
In case you didn't see... I got the subframe bushing set of 4 from BMAparts.com, becsuse the Lemfoerder bushings were like $21. That's for ALL 4. http://bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku=BMW...er&weight=1.20
this is very good prize cdb3113 ! the cheapest i found was 37$ one
This what i am going to do :
1. First - replace diff bushing ( need take diff off a ?? )
2. Second - replace subframe bushing on the car
I already ordered from dealer all 3 diff bushing which are about 100$ so
It's not a big $ difference like a subframe bushing for which dealer wants 67$ one so i bought them directly from delaer.
When i will have them im my hands i can check if any "AutoZone" tool can be applicable , if no will need a special tool xm ... ~200$
After replacement will make a test drive and
see if still need work on subframe bushing -> your crazy part 2
what do you say ?
Last edited by champaign777; 04-23-2009 at 03:17 PM.
Sounds like a plan. You will need to take the diff off. I looked again at the diff last night, and its pretty close on the passenger side, to the spare wheel well. A 3/8" all-thread shaft, with a nut on it, on top of a special washer would do the trick nicely. I'll let you know how mine goes. As for the smaller diff bushings, doesn't look too bad. I am going to replace that one first.
thats about what I paid for the 3 diff bushings as well. Now, I am broke.
now i remember - sometimes i have this metal click in rear
I can hear it on low speed with open window on some parking places ...
But when i checked my rear all looks fine, clean and tight ...
even my rear low / upper arms which i replaced recently were in great condition ... bushing were just fine
looks like I droped 500 $ for nothing ... the only rear ball joints were bad
These bushing difficult to check if no leak the only way is to replace parts by parts .. expensive
Last edited by champaign777; 12-03-2010 at 02:32 PM.
Very expensive. Did you replace the rear sway bar links yet? I don't remember. Is it just clicking when going over bumps?
exactly - rear metal click when going over bumps
I know it is from rear diff but i was always thinking it is from shaft drive connection to rear diff
According to my tranny mounts condition and reading your posts i start to think it's my rear diff bushing ... will know only when will replace them
rear related upgrade :
new shaft drive - central mount adjusted after 1K miles
new tranny / engine mounts
new ball joints
new sway bar links
new sway bar links mounts
new rear lower/upper control arm
ya and new lemforder struts with mounts
All staff only original, most from dealer , no Groton, no Eibach
Last edited by champaign777; 04-24-2009 at 12:56 PM.
hey brother !!
looks like only me and you interesting in this dialog about rear upgrade a ?
Or people are not interesting what is going on behind ( like in rear life a )
Or people are only interesting what is going on in front ( see comments about life above )
Or me and you both sick about suspention upgrade
and most of people are only interesting how car looks
MMM maybe need to find supporting vendor a ? hehehe
Just got my new mounts from dealer today ... xmm they are encapsulate in rubber a
Do i need some special grease to pull them inside or just " as it" ?
Last edited by champaign777; 04-23-2010 at 11:14 PM.
I will rent it. I sent you a PM as well.
I used an aerosol teflon lube that dried on contact. I sprayed bushings, and then carefully pulled them into the subframe. Doing this job without the puller set it impossible.
Check your PM!!
Thanks
Turns out I cannot PM you Champaign777. Send me an email at ewss AT pclus.com.
I'll get back with you quickly.
Last edited by wyseguy; 04-25-2009 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I sprayed the bushings with silicone spray lube and heated the subframe a LITTLE BIT ONLY. To put them in, I only needed like 45seconds of propane torch heat, and that from a distance. you don't want to overheat the frame, it will deform.
I do not beleive heat is a good idea. Just my .02.
thanks wyseguy !!
i send you mail about tool
Last edited by champaign777; 04-26-2009 at 12:04 AM.
I pulled the first bushing without heat, and it took ~2 hours. The next one took an hour, with little heat. I got the process down after that, and the next two came out in a half hour each, with little heat.
I dont see a way to heat the diff bushing aluminum anyways, but I wasn't planning on on heating that at all. The bushings are smaller.
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