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Thread: Suspension Overhaul FAQ

  1. #26
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    Talk about a definitive thread!!

    Re: Rear Control Arm Bushings / Ball Joints
    1) Which of the four bushing / ball joints do you think are the weakest link? Would the outer lower bushing go first?
    2) How has anyone replaced these parts? I've seen several tool vendors and they all have BMW tool B333351 for $500. Is there an option for less $ Other than having a shop do the job, has anyone done a DIY on the rear control arm bushings? I'd be interested in any tips there.

    TIA, as always.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prima E36 View Post
    Talk about a definitive thread!!

    Re: Rear Control Arm Bushings / Ball Joints
    1) Which of the four bushing / ball joints do you think are the weakest link? Would the outer lower bushing go first?
    2) How has anyone replaced these parts? I've seen several tool vendors and they all have BMW tool B333351 for $500. Is there an option for less $ Other than having a shop do the job, has anyone done a DIY on the rear control arm bushings? I'd be interested in any tips there.

    TIA, as always.
    2) I'm using a homemade tool that consists of two large sockets and some threaded stock. I got the "ball joint" last week and should have some feedback by next week.

    Hear's the post I got the idea from. Sroll down to post #12: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...hlight=sockets
    Last edited by HighandFast; 09-14-2009 at 08:46 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil Spoonman View Post
    Well primarily I was speaking of the E36 M3 variant of the Bilstein Sport. For some unknown reason Bilstein seems to have gotten the valving on that shock completely wrong and it is, no other word for it, dreadful.

    The standard 3-Series Bilstein Sport setup is nowhere near as bad, to the best of my knowledge it is valved in a relatively pleasing way. Konis do tend to provide a more comfortable ride than Bilsteins with factory valving and are adjustable (if you feel like getting technical).
    Well, that's a disappointment. The Sport shock is the only model that Bilstein offers for the M3.

    I have a question about suspension parts interchangability between the M3 and the non-M3 cars, specifically pertaining to a 1994 325i Sedan, build date of 9/93. I'd like to accomplish a couple of things:

    1. Change the front swaybar mounts from the non-M3 type (linked to the control arm) to the M3 type (linked to the strut for greater leverage)
    . To do this, I'm thinking that all I'd need to do is to change the struts from 325i struts to M3 struts and replace the non-M sway bar linkages with the the M-type sway bar linkages. Is it that simple or is there something else that would need to be changed? I'm thinking that if I buy aftermarket M3 type struts, they should come with the mounting points for the sway bar linkages already on them, right? Is there anything that I would need to change, perhaps the upper mounts?

    2. Swap the four non-M coil springs out for M3 coil springs. I'm looking for a higher spring rate without lowering the car as much as a set of aftermarket lowering springs would lower the car. I'm not 100% certain on the rear shock selection though. Insofar as the non-M Bilstein Sport shock is being touted as a better setup than the M3 Bilstein Sport shock, I was considering the non-M3 Sport shock for use with the M3 springs. Would that be OK, or is the amount of travel, and the shock body length significantly different, so that doing this would be a problem?

  4. #29
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    Responded to a lot of people's comments/questions in this post, you might be one of them. I've been away for a bit, but I'm back and will continue working on this thread.

    In the spirit of I am prepping a large quantity of pictures for this thread. Unsure yet how I am going to implement them into the text without having massive load times, or making editing way too difficult. These picture are pulled from threads around bimmerforums with me adding very few myself. Below is a sample of what I intend to input.

    The format is 800x600 images with the target focused out, a reference direction, and the user who posted the image originally at the bottom left. I am still searching for pictures of many components, if you have good detailed pictures of any of the components listed in this guide please contact me. If you see your pictures used and you do not want that, contact me and they will be pulled and erased from my server immediately.







    Quote Originally Posted by pescadero View Post

    1. Change the front swaybar mounts from the non-M3 type (linked to the control arm) to the M3 type (linked to the strut for greater leverage)
    . To do this, I'm thinking that all I'd need to do is to change the struts from 325i struts to M3 struts and replace the non-M sway bar linkages with the the M-type sway bar linkages. Is it that simple or is there something else that would need to be changed? I'm thinking that if I buy aftermarket M3 type struts, they should come with the mounting points for the sway bar linkages already on them, right? Is there anything that I would need to change, perhaps the upper mounts?
    I think you have it nailed. You can simply swap strut housings, swap to M3 swaybar endlinks, and you're fine.

    2. Swap the four non-M coil springs out for M3 coil springs. I'm looking for a higher spring rate without lowering the car as much as a set of aftermarket lowering springs would lower the car. I'm not 100% certain on the rear shock selection though. Insofar as the non-M Bilstein Sport shock is being touted as a better setup than the M3 Bilstein Sport shock, I was considering the non-M3 Sport shock for use with the M3 springs. Would that be OK, or is the amount of travel, and the shock body length significantly different, so that doing this would be a problem?
    Bilstein's 328i shocks/struts are valved reasonably well, much better than their M3 kit (strangely). Remember, all shocks can be brought to an excellent standard if you're willing to put out for a revalve.

    When switching springs you only need concern yourself with the front as the rear shocks and springs will interchange between M and non-M just fine. The 328 and M3 use different size front springs in various combinations. I forget the exact specs (maybe I should read my own article). The components to worry about are the spring hats and the strut spring seat. If you get M3 springs you will need an M3 spring seat (M3 strut) and spring hat, and I believe these vary between ODB1 and ODB2 M3 designs even (so much for German consistency). Thus you will need to be sure to remain consistent in the type of M3 you are pulling parts from/ordering parts for.

    The real reason to move to M3 geometry up front is frankly all in the control arms. M3 control arms are substantially more expensive, and substantially better in terms of quality and feel.

    Frankly my job when ordering parts for my car has gotten ridiculous. I buy Superlite pads, E46 M3 rotors, E36 OBD2 M3 suspension components for certain areas, 328i suspension components in other places... blah.

    Hope that helps.

    Quote Originally Posted by Prima E36 View Post
    Re: Rear Control Arm Bushings / Ball Joints
    1) Which of the four bushing / ball joints do you think are the weakest link? Would the outer lower bushing go first?
    If you are in a 328, the bushings (lower, attach to the camber arm) are the weaker link. The ball joints (upper, wishbone) are stronger and will last longer. M3 comes with 4x ball joints, because... they were better people in a past life, who knows.

    2) How has anyone replaced these parts? I've seen several tool vendors and they all have BMW tool B333351 for $500. Is there an option for less $ Other than having a shop do the job, has anyone done a DIY on the rear control arm bushings? I'd be interested in any tips there.
    People have used many methods. HighandFast hilighted one. My preferred route would be to pick up a press (10 ton maybe, you can get them fairly cheap) and make your own press fitments.

    Quote Originally Posted by HighandFast View Post
    Now, just add torque values
    Working on that now.

    Quote Originally Posted by m3c99 View Post
    just replaced all of my bushings about two weeks ago, I used this and some other threads as a guide. The car after getting an alignment rides perfectly, I went with all oem and highly recommend it
    People often forget that for many intents and purposes, OEM stuff is GOOD. There are a few fatal flaw components out there (unlimited RTABS, non-reinforced RSMs, I'm looking at you). But in large part these cars are very nice to drive stock.

    Quote Originally Posted by catalyst. View Post
    you just disconnect the shocks and push the trailing arm down with your foot then you can grab the spring and yank er out
    This works, but I've heard it is not good for the universal joints on the half shafts. Might be wiser to compress the spring and pull it out that way.

    Quote Originally Posted by RatFink328 View Post
    But what I havnt seen is what shock/spring combos ARE vavled properly and work harmoniously. I had no idea about the H&R/Bilstein sport package not handling particularly well, a lot of people have great reviews of it.

    Which is why i think this thread is so important. Someone who has a LOT of experience with suspension can provide recomendations on what a proper setup is. I personally dont have much suspension experience, so whos to say that I wouldnt think my improperly vavled shock/spring combo "handled amazingly"? I have no experience to compare it too...

    So what IS a good spring/shock combo? If your going for a 1" drop, and better handling on an M3/32x....whats the best combination?
    While I have some experience, the vast array of preference, opinion, and dazzling number of permutations there are makes it difficult to directly point to a combination and recommend them without offending somebody else. Or to encompass all possible options. I am in the processing of trying to create an accurate and forgiving 'price for performance' chart of aftermarket products, but it is truly daunting. However, your suggestion is noted.

    Quote Originally Posted by gripracer View Post
    de-capitalize the "X" in "M4X" and you're golden.
    Done. Any other spelling/grammar/general errors anybody's taken notice of?

    Quote Originally Posted by Lorgow View Post
    My question is where Spoonman says not to use the lower outer control arm bushing but use M3 ball joint style...
    Should I have bought extra outter upper (33-32-6-775-551) x 4 and used it for the lowers AND uppers? They look like the same dimentions.
    Also I'm thinking I should have got the RTAB side plates. Might do that along with a later upgrade.
    Attached are photos of the Trailing Arm Bushings that I am about to install.
    Left to right goes:
    Inner control arm lower, outter control arm lower, outter control arm upper and the big one is RTAB.
    33-32-1-092-247, 33-32-1-136-311, 33-32-6-775-551, 33-32-2-228-153
    Pretty bushings. And yes, both of the connection points on the trailing arm will accept a ball joint [33-32-6-775-551]. This is how the M3 is set up stock, and it is an improvement over the ordinary lower bushing, upper ball joint.

    Quote Originally Posted by E30nSC View Post
    The "interchangeability" in suspension parts does make me wonder how feasible outfitting my '93 325i with the "iS"...or even an M3 (gasp!) suspension is...I realize the FSB aren't interchangeable with an M3, but what about the "iS?" And "iS" springs...RSB and springs (assuming these truly are "stiffer" parts over the "i.")
    Sport Package parts will tend to be slightly uprated (16" wheels, thicker swaybars, slightly lower and stiffer springs, etc...). However, for the price of moving to a sport package setup you can easily spend only slightly more and move to an aftermarket setup which will be much better again than even an M3 design. So in short yes, every sport package component is compatible.

    Quote Originally Posted by mtechnica View Post
    Wishbone Inner Bushing: [33-32-1-092-247]
    Camber Arm Inner Bushing: [33-32-6-770-824]

    Anyone have experience with the symptoms of one of these failing on a lowered car? Click when pushing down hard on the back of the car? That becomes a rattle when the suspension moves up and down on rough roads?

    I'm still not really clear on the replacement procedure for this and what would be considered an upgrade on a 99 m3...
    I am unsure what failure symptoms are. Generally adjustable camber arms will come with a bushing integrated into the inside mounted end. The wishbone bushing can simple by pressed out and a new one pressed in. They seem to hold up pretty well, I see no reason to deviate from stock, or if an aftermarket item is even available.

    Quote Originally Posted by drew1320 View Post
    Any ideas as to who sells complete bushing kits?
    Quote Originally Posted by gsolo View Post
    Can I buy OEM bushing in a kit? As in a whole set?
    Several vendors sell a 'bushing kit'. I know Turner has a few. ECS Tuning seems to as well. They're around, Google is your friend!

    Is it worth it to get an aftermarket camber plates for street use only? Are there any downsides to them?
    In my opinion camber plates (and decent rear camber arms) are absolutely a necessary item on the E36 and should have come on the car from the factory. The caster part isn't really critical, so you can definitely save some cash just getting camber-only plates. Camber plates will allow you to properly align the front end of your car, which can result in many things... better tire wear or better performance among them.

    I was looking around for info on revalving and when I finally entered "bilstein revalving" into google the first hit I get is this:

    http://www.bilstein.com/services.php

    $75 each strut, $65 each shock (for non adjustables). Dyno sheets included

    Complete pricing list at that link.

    It appears that lots of people are interested in revalving. Should we bump that old thread you linked to, keep it in this thread or start a new one?
    Thanks for this information. I will add it to the primary thread. I will also give Bilstein a call and see what sort of parameters they accept when specifying a custom valve job. Don't bump the old thread, I will eventually cover valving in detail in this one.

    Quote Originally Posted by numbah9 View Post
    One thing I'm confused about is the two mentions of Trailing Arm Bushings related to the rear axle. One is mentioned as RTAB, and one merely "Rear Trailing Arm Bushing". Should I change both?
    There is the RTAB then there are the trailing arm bushing/ball joint locations. Reference the rear suspension diagram for this, 9 is the RTAB, 5 and 8 are the upper and lower ball joints/bushings respectively.

    On another note, I wanted to change my front LCABs and so I ordered 33-32-1-136-311, but that's actually something completely different! eEuroparts.com lists it as "trailing arm bushing (lower)" for the rear! Instead I need 31-12-9-059-288 for my front LCABs.

    So now I need to figure out what the hell I need to do my RTABs. Do I need 33-32-6-770-786? eEuroparts.com list that as "Trailing Arm Bushing (upper)" for the rear.
    [33-32-1-136-311] is clearly listed as a trailing arm bushing, LCAB standards for Lower or Front Control Arm Bushing, ie forward control arm to chassis, what you want, as you said, is [31-12-9-059-288]. You do need [33-32-6-770-786] if you intend to replace your RTAB with an OE one. This would be 9 in the rear suspension diagram.

    The other thing I ordered -- 33-32-1-097-009 -- I have no idea what it's for! Rogue Engineering show it as the 1995 E36 RTAB.
    Neither of the part numbers listed on that website resolve in RealOEM, both resolve with Pelican Part's engine though. [33-32-2-228-153] is the apparently stronger RTAB I list in my FAQ. Pelican's database explicitly says to use [33-32-6-770-786] in place of [33-32-1-097-009-defunct]. You may just be dealing with old part numbers linking to superseded items.


    Cheers
    Last edited by Evil Spoonman; 09-19-2009 at 08:52 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil Spoonman View Post
    The real reason to move to M3 geometry up front is frankly all in the control arms. M3 control arms are substantially more expensive, and substantially better in terms of quality and feel.
    I'm not yet at the point where I feel the need to change control arms, though that may come after I do some of the other upgrades. For the first step I'm focusing on the struts and swaybar.

    Quote Originally Posted by Evil Spoonman View Post
    1. Change the front swaybar mounts from the non-M3 type (linked to the control arm) to the M3 type (linked to the strut for greater leverage). To do this, I'm thinking that all I'd need to do is to change the struts from 325i struts to M3 struts and replace the non-M sway bar linkages with the the M-type sway bar linkages. Is it that simple or is there something else that would need to be changed? I'm thinking that if I buy aftermarket M3 type struts, they should come with the mounting points for the sway bar linkages already on them, right? Is there anything that I would need to change, perhaps the upper mounts?
    I think you have it nailed. You can simply swap strut housings, swap to M3 swaybar endlinks, and you're fine.
    My real reason for reworking the front end is to get the M3 type of performance out of the stock 325i swaybar, due to the added mechanical advantage that is offered by the strut mounting position.

    I had thought (based on your first post) that the front swaybars were the same on both cars. RealOEM reports a subtle difference that is interesting -- the 94 325i uses a 24mm swaybar while the 98 M3 uses a 23 mm swaybar. I'm thinking that the 325i swaybar would actually be stiffer once mounted in the M3 fashion.

    Quote Originally Posted by Evil Spoonman View Post
    2. Swap the four non-M coil springs out for M3 coil springs. I'm looking for a higher spring rate without lowering the car as much as a set of aftermarket lowering springs would lower the car. I'm not 100% certain on the rear shock selection though. Insofar as the non-M Bilstein Sport shock is being touted as a better setup than the M3 Bilstein Sport shock, I was considering the non-M3 Sport shock for use with the M3 springs. Would that be OK, or is the amount of travel, and the shock body length significantly different, so that doing this would be a problem?
    Bilstein's 328i shocks/struts are valved reasonably well, much better than their M3 kit (strangely). Remember, all shocks can be brought to an excellent standard if you're willing to put out for a revalve.

    When switching springs you only need concern yourself with the front as the rear shocks and springs will interchange between M and non-M just fine. The 328 and M3 use different size front springs in various combinations. I forget the exact specs (maybe I should read my own article). The components to worry about are the spring hats and the strut spring seat. If you get M3 springs you will need an M3 spring seat (M3 strut) and spring hat, and I believe these vary between ODB1 and ODB2 M3 designs even (so much for German consistency). Thus you will need to be sure to remain consistent in the type of M3 you are pulling parts from/ordering parts for.
    The rear shock choice doesn't seem to be too difficult of a problem to solve -- as you said, the 325i and M3 rear springs are interchangeable, and Bilstein's non-M E36 HD or Sport shocks can be substituted for the M3 shocks.

    Based on what I've read here, the Bilstein 325i Sport or HD shocks would probably be a better choice than the Bilstein M3 Sport shocks, even with the M3 rear springs. The hard part seems to be finding a matching setup for the front:

    Bilstein only markets a "Sport" strut for the M3. There are no "HD" struts for the M3 like there are for the 325i. So for someone who is looking for an M3 strut body to mount their front swaybar in the M3 fashion, it looks like there is only one choice. Based on your comments about valving, it sounds like the Bilstein M3 (Sport) strut would be a poor choice for spirited DD/street use. And something like a Koni is out of the question for me, since I don't have an M3 strut body to accept a Koni insert.

    Is the valving "problem" with the Bilstein Sport setup for the M3 limited only to the rear shocks, or does it effect the front struts as well? I can move to the 325i-type HD or Sport rear shocks without any problem, but I'm having trouble deciding what to do up front. There doesn't seem to be a good solution for someone who wants to adapt to an M3 type front strut.

    Thanks for your help.

    Another question -- Does anyone have a table of BMW spring rates for the E36? I'd really like to compare the front/rear spring rates between the non-M and the M3, but I haven't been able to track down the numbers. Thanks!
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  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by pescadero View Post
    I had thought (based on your first post) that the front swaybars were the same on both cars. RealOEM reports a subtle difference that is interesting -- the 94 325i uses a 24mm swaybar while the 98 M3 uses a 23 mm swaybar. I'm thinking that the 325i swaybar would actually be stiffer once mounted in the M3 fashion.
    Yes, there are many 'different' swaybars, they vary in thickness. The 24mm swaybar will be stiffer than the 23mm swaybar in the same geometry.

    Bilstein only markets a "Sport" strut for the M3. There are no "HD" struts for the M3 like there are for the 325i. So for someone who is looking for an M3 strut body to mount their front swaybar in the M3 fashion, it looks like there is only one choice. Based on your comments about valving, it sounds like the Bilstein M3 (Sport) strut would be a poor choice for spirited DD/street use. And something like a Koni is out of the question for me, since I don't have an M3 strut body to accept a Koni insert.
    You could grab worn out OE M3 struts and then get Konis. I imagine there are M3 owners around that would give you their worn M3 struts for the price of shipping. Just a thought.

    Is the valving "problem" with the Bilstein Sport setup for the M3 limited only to the rear shocks, or does it effect the front struts as well? I can move to the 325i-type HD or Sport rear shocks without any problem, but I'm having trouble deciding what to do up front. There doesn't seem to be a good solution for someone who wants to adapt to an M3 type front strut.
    I believe they are valved poorly all the way around, unfortunately. You might have to just revalve the M3 struts. They really aren't horrible terrible stock, they're just not ideal. You could see if you could get brackets welded on to a non-M strut. Here's what they look like:



    Another question -- Does anyone have a table of BMW spring rates for the E36? I'd really like to compare the front/rear spring rates between the non-M and the M3, but I haven't been able to track down the numbers.
    I think some of these springrates are floating around the forums... I don't remember where off the top of my head though.
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  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by pescadero View Post
    1. Change the front swaybar mounts from the non-M3 type (linked to the control arm) to the M3 type (linked to the strut for greater leverage). To do this, I'm thinking that all I'd need to do is to change the struts from 325i struts to M3 struts and replace the non-M sway bar linkages with the the M-type sway bar linkages. Is it that simple or is there something else that would need to be changed? I'm thinking that if I buy aftermarket M3 type struts, they should come with the mounting points for the sway bar linkages already on them, right? Is there anything that I would need to change, perhaps the upper mounts?

    I have used non-M bars on my M and I had a problem you may run into. when my car was lowered on GC coils I could use the 3er sport bar with the OEM M3 links to the struts no problem and it worked great. the 328 sport front bar is thicker than the M3 bar but it is shaped slightly different due to the CA mounting vs. the strut mounting. so when I put stock height suspension back on the sway bar link (plus the ride height) put the 328 bar into such a position that the bar hit the oil pan (it hit something I can't really remember what). I couldn't even get the bar to bolt to the link because the link was not long enough. you could still use the 3er bar with M3 struts as long as you used a longer (adjustable) end link.

    just my experience. oh and BTW I sell reconditioned M3 struts ready to go for koni inserts if you're interested. link in sig.

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  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36M3E View Post
    you could still use the 3er bar with M3 struts as long as you used a longer (adjustable) end link.
    does someone offer a longer / adjustable end link?
    (oOO \ (||||)(||||) / OOo)

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    Quote Originally Posted by pescadero View Post
    does someone offer a longer / adjustable end link?
    Just about every vendor I can think of that offers suspension components includes some manner of adjustable front endlink. Turner, UUC, Vorshlag, Ground Control... et cetera.
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by pescadero View Post
    does someone offer a longer / adjustable end link?

    maybe you'd be interested in something like this?
    http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/index.html

    go to sway bar links on left- its a DIY kinda thing
    Last edited by 95325i5sp; 09-22-2009 at 09:17 PM.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95325i5sp View Post
    maybe you'd be interested in something like this?
    http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/index.html

    go to sway bar links on left- its a DIY kinda thing

    Nice. I was thinking about buying a set of Moog end links, cutting them in half, threading them, and using a threaded shaft to bridge between them. (My neighbor has a metal lathe.) This method with the pre-made components seems like a lot less effort.
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    Can anyone contribute original knowledge regarding aftermarket quality for control arms and tie rods? There is at least a 50% price differential between the Meyle HD and the OEM Lemforders.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 325icintn View Post
    Can anyone contribute original knowledge regarding aftermarket quality for control arms and tie rods? There is at least a 50% price differential between the Meyle HD and the OEM Lemforders.
    If your car is not heavily tracked, I personally do not see the added benefit other than the bling factor.

    Doug


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    So Mr Spoonman, I now have Billie Sport shocks with HnR race springs on my car. As you know, this setup is horrendous for ride quality. Would ditching the Billies for Koni adjustable shocks signifcantly improve the ride quality?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haris View Post
    So Mr Spoonman, I now have Billie Sport shocks with HnR race springs on my car. As you know, this setup is horrendous for ride quality. Would ditching the Billies for Koni adjustable shocks signifcantly improve the ride quality?
    Short answer: Yes.

    Long answer: Revalving the Bilsteins is also a viable option for great results, and probably cheaper than buying all new shocks. See the URL for general prices, and call Bilstein for some better detail on what information they need to revalve to your liking: http://www.bilsteinus.com/services.php
    Last edited by Evil Spoonman; 11-15-2009 at 11:15 PM.
    "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." - Hunter S. Thompson
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  16. #41
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    This may be a completely retarded question. I know I said Koni Adjustables, but it seems as though Koni Yellows are a much cheaper alternative. Will these also soften up my ride but not kill my handling? I also have UUC sways and Xbrace along with sparco strut bar.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haris View Post
    This may be a completely retarded question. I know I said Koni Adjustables, but it seems as though Koni Yellows are a much cheaper alternative. Will these also soften up my ride but not kill my handling?
    What kills Bilstein Sports in the M3 application is poor valving. Any properly valved aftermarket shock (Koni, Sachs-Boge, AST, or even Bilstein other than the Sport) will almost certainly make for a very nice ride.

    I also have UUC sways and Xbrace along with sparco strut bar.
    These should all help you along. Chassis rigidity is always a good thing. Be sure to use your swaybars for fine tuning and not as a substitution for lack of camber or correct springrates!
    "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." - Hunter S. Thompson
    Suspension Overhaul FAQ

  18. #43
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    Awesome. Koni's seem pretty expensive but I found these for a great deal. What do you think:

    Front
    http://www.raceinspired.com/p-16586-...iliateid=10065
    Rear
    http://www.raceinspired.com/p-16585-...iliateid=10065

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haris View Post
    Awesome. Koni's seem pretty expensive but I found these for a great deal. What do you think:

    Front
    http://www.raceinspired.com/p-16586-...iliateid=10065
    Rear
    http://www.raceinspired.com/p-16585-...iliateid=10065
    I would say they seem about right as far as price point goes. Note that those fronts ARE inserts, not replacements - so that will require a touch of extra work.
    Special McPherson strut insert bolted into original equipment housing after cutting top and removing old internal parts.
    I think they will provide a perfectly enjoyable ride. Part of the problem may in fact be that the H&R Race spring is not high enough in springrate for how substantially it lowers. You will bumpstop the vehicle from time to time if you DD it which is less than desirable.

    Cheers
    Last edited by Evil Spoonman; 11-16-2009 at 02:03 PM.
    "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." - Hunter S. Thompson
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  20. #45
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    Yes it's my DD. Bumpstops can be an issue but my number one problem is the harshness of the ride. So since they're inserts I would have to purchase OEM shocks to put the KONIs in? That sounds difficult. Maybe there's a third alternative.

  21. #46
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    I think the inserts can go in ANY shock tube. You could probably use the ones you currently have, but call Koni to double check.

    Doug

    Edit: This was verfied and this is not the case. Koni inserts can ONLY be used with OEM tubes.
    Last edited by douglee25; 11-16-2009 at 03:28 PM.


    '97 M3/4

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haris View Post
    since they're inserts I would have to purchase OEM shocks to put the KONIs in? That sounds difficult. Maybe there's a third alternative.
    there is another alternative... I sell the OE strut housings already modified and refurbished (powdercoated) and ready to go for konis.

    look here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1226598


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  23. #48
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    I don't have OE shocks to send back to you for a core charge though, otherwise it sounds great.
    Last edited by Haris; 11-16-2009 at 02:54 PM.

  24. #49
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    Really your options come down to:
    - Revalve your Bilsteins
    - Source some M3 struts and use them to insert Konis into (either from E36M3E as pure housings or from elsewhere as full struts you then cut down).
    - I have not explored this option, but it may be possible to cut down your Bilsteins and use those bodies for the Koni inserts (which would be the height of irony). I'm not sure how dangerous this would be, Bilsteins are high pressure gas shocks and may have propensity to explode or something.
    "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." - Hunter S. Thompson
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  25. #50
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    Just got off the phone with Koni, and they said their inserts are solely for the OE housings I wish there was a way to revalve the Billies without having to go through the trouble of trying to source shocks to ride on temporarily while I send them off. Also, I wonder if I do revalve the Billies, will they eventually just go back to being terrible?

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