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Thread: Suspension Overhaul FAQ

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    Most recent update: Dec 16th, 2009
    Added a fairly complete tech article on tires, did some editing, and added a link to Turner's excellent spacer guide.

    NOTE: this thread is no longer being curated by its creator (Evil Spoonman). Messages to me will probably go unanswered. If you wish to to modify and/or edit it contact me via email from my profile and suggest/submit changes. Thank you.

    Table of Contents:

    I Introduction

    II Both Axles
    Shocks/Struts
    Springs
    Coilovers
    Wheel Bearings
    Sway Bars (Anti-Roll Bars)

    III Front Axle
    Front Axle Diagram/Overview
    Control Arms
    Lower/Front Control Arm Bushing (LCAB/FCAB)
    Strut Mounts
    Tie Rods

    IV Rear Axle
    Rear Axle Diagram/Overview
    Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTAB)
    Trailing Arm Bushings
    Camber Arm/Rear Lower Control Arm
    Subframe/Differential Bushings
    Rear Shock Mounts (RSM)

    V Suspension Kits

    VI Technical Discussions
    The Tire as a Critical Suspension Component

    Helpful Links
    Spacers Guide
    E36 M3 Alignment Guide


    __________________________________________________


    I - Introduction:

    This FAQ was designed for anybody interested in E36 suspension.

    Organization is by axle. Each specific item contains a description, and BMW OE part numbers. Some components also include a failure mode description. Note that only major components are covered. Small bolts, nuts, and interconnecting pieces are not referenced. I suggest www.realoem.com for locating specific things.

    I use the word OBD1 M3 to describe the 1995 US model year M3 with the S50B30 engine. OBD2 M3 to describe 1996-1999 US model year M3s with the S52B32 engine. 3-Series to describe 328, 325, 323, 318 i, si, ic, and ti cars with M50, M52, and M4x series engines. This guide is focused on US spec cars, although much of this information no doubt applies to the world market as well. Also perhaps, but not necessarily, applicable to the E36-based Z3 Roadster and Coupé.

    All of this information is well researched, but not cast in stone. If you run across any inaccuracies, spelling or grammatical errors, omitted information, or something you would like to see changed or added please PM or email me (evil.spoonman at gmail.com).

    Build for your intended application. What do you use your vehicle for? Be honest about this and you will then be able to spend money in a more intelligent fashion with more pleasing results. Installing spherical bearings, solid mounts/bushings, and massively high spring rates on a street car is not good for your spine or your vehicle; nor does it necessairly yeild good handling.


    __________________________________________________


    II - Both Axles:

    Shocks/Struts
    Universally known as 'dampers', your shocks and struts are responsible for controlling your wheel's contact with the road. There are many types: Monotube, twin tube, gas, liquid, adjustable, et cetera. For most applications the damper technology is not as important as the valving. Valving determines how your car interacts with the road, and controls your springs. If your compression or rebound damping is too aggressive, your car will not ride well. This is a very simplistic view of the role valving plays in suspension. For a further analysis see the related reads at the bottom of this thread.

    It is important, when lowering the E36 chassis, to select a shock/strut combo with shortened bodies to allow proper travel. Travel is the amount a shock can compress before impacting the bump stop. In the stock setup travel is already minimal. If the vehicle is lowered on stock-height dampers bump stops will come into play far too often, and the vehicle's ride will be compromised.

    The forward strut runs between the front spindle/knuckle and the strut tower/strut mount on either side of the engine bay. The 3-Series has a larger lower spring perch as part of the strut than any M3. The OBD1 M3 and 3-Series have identically sized upper spring hats (different part numbers), the OBD2 M3 has a slightly smaller hat. The M3 also has the swaybar endlink mount welded onto the strut housing, whereas the 3-Series does not. The rear mounting is identical across the E36 chassis, and across most BMWs. The rear shock attaches to the trailing arm and to the rear shock tower/shock mount on either side of the trunk. Note that the shock tower is not structural in the E36, and a true coilover cannot be placed here without very serious reinforcement. Similarly a rear shock tower bar is effectively worthless.

    Generally the OE suspension will be shot after 50,000 miles, and will require replacement. The deterioration is very gradual, and is not felt by the owner. While you can drive on compromised shocks and struts, the car will handle badly, be very wallowy, and generally unpleasant. Replacing with OE again will yield fresh suspension, but a similarly short life. There are many aftermarket solutions available, and I recommend them.

    3-Series Spring Hat: [31-33-1-135-580]
    OBD1 M3 Sprint Hat:[31-33-2-227-348]
    OBD2 M3 Spring Hat: [31-33-2-227-903]


    Springs
    Springs determine two primary things: the ride height of the vehicle, and the amount of body roll. Spring rate is generally measured in inch-pounds (in/lbs). As the spring rate increases, the harshness of the ride increases, and body roll decreases. While body roll is clearly not ideal, maintaing some semblance of comfort generally is. Shock valving is important in controlling the behavior, and percieved harshness, of the spring.

    Rear springs are mounted inboard between the upper wishbone and the body. They are identical and interchangeable between all E36 models. Front springs are part of the strut assembly. 3-Series springs are larger than M3 springs. However, much intermixing can be done if you are willing to swap hats and struts.


    Coilovers
    On the E36 coilovers mostly buy you height adjustability. Their other main (but not unique) advantage is that out of the box they are valved for the springs they are companioned to. The front is already a static coil-over so the design is not changed, the coilover simply adds a threaded adjuster. The rear geometry remains the same as well. The kit will provide an adjustable spring jack for the rear spring and an independent shock. As noted above, installing a true rear 'coilover' would entail greatly reinforcing the rear shock tower. You need a coilover kit for your E36 if: You need/want height adjustability OR you want the best out-of-box valving experience possible


    Wheel Bearings
    Wheel bearings allow the wheel to rotate independently of its mounting. They are press-fitted into the knuckle/spindle in the front, and the trailing arm in the rear. The front bearing comes as a complete hub/bearing assembly and you must replace both if the bearing goes bad. The rear allows the bearing to be replaced independently. The hub is pressed into the bearing from the outside, and the axle half-shaft into the hub from the inside to complete the assembly.

    Wheel bearings tend to be 125,000 mile wear items under average use. They are seasonal wear items for most race teams. Failing rear bearings can often be detected by a cyclical droning from the rear of the car, a speed-relative squeak, or a loud howl. It is very difficult to diagnose wheel bearings, pulling the wheel and rotor off can give you a better idea.

    Removal and replacement of wheel bearings (rear especially) is difficult as the press-fit is very tight, usually requiring special tools. Note that OE wheel bearings appear to come from the factory with a minimal amount of grease packed into them effectively shortening their life considerably. You can install OE, or attempt to repack your own with additional grease: this thread (post #22 specifically) is an excellent resource for disassembly and repacking of FAG bearings. A neat trick for installing press-fit items is to put them in the freezer beforehand - works with bearings, hubs, and bushings.

    Front Bearing/Hub Assembly: [31-22-6-757-024]
    3-Series Rear Wheel Bearing: [33-41-1-468-747]
    M3 Rear Wheel Bearing: [33-41-1-468-904]
    318ti Rear Wheel Bearing: [33-41-1-124-358]


    Sway Bars (Anti-Roll Bars)
    A sway bar is a suspension tuning tool that ties the suspension's sides together to try and reduce body roll. Often used to try to give a car with relatively soft suspension the effect of stiffer suspension when cornering. There are downsides to improperly set up sway bar configurations, such as jacking up of inside wheels during cornering.

    On the 3-Series the forward sway bar attaches to the control arm via endlinks, and then brackets up to the undercarriage via bushings. The M3 (and certain 325i) uses longer links that bolt to the struts. The front bar itself is the same. Rear swaybars are the same across all non-ti E36s. They are affixed to the upper wishbone via links, and bracket to the subframe. The M3's front geometry allows the sway bar more mechanical leverage than the control arm link design. Thus an equally sized bar on the M3 is effectively substantially stiffer. It is advisable that when using front swaybars across models you use adjustable aftermarket swaybar links, OEM may not always adapt properly.

    A swaybar itself does not 'go bad' (barring some sort of accident). The bushings/brackets in the endlink and attaching the bar to the undercarriage do. It is rare to see swaybars replaced with original equipment, generally aftermarket is better and allows one to tune the handling to their liking. There is a strongly suggested reinforcement to the rear swaybar bracket points, you can make and weld in your own, or buy one from one of several manufacturers, here is a link to Turner's kit.

    Front Swaybar Endlink (control arm attachment): [31-35-1-091-764]
    Front Swaybar Endlink (strut attachment): [31-35-2-227-203]
    Rear Swaybar Endlink: [33-55-1-126-932]

    Front Swaybar Bracket: [31-35-1-131-622]
    Rear Swaybar Bracket: [31-35-1-124-995]
    318ti Rear Swaybar Bracket: [33-55-1-129-195]

    Front Endlink to Control Arm Mount: [31-35-1-127-263]
    Rear Endlink to Control Arm Mount: [33-55-1-136-393]
    318ti Rear Endlink to Wishbone Mount: [33-32-1-127-717]

    Swaybar Bushings (NOTE: This list is not entirely accurate. Measure your swaybar before buying bushings.)
    22.5mm, M3 - Front: [31-35-1-090-300]
    19mm, OBD1 M3 - Rear: [33-55-2-227-006]
    20mm, OBD2 M3 - Rear: [33-55-2-227-240]

    25.5mm, Sport Suspension - Front: [31-35-1-090-268]
    18mm, Sport Suspension - Rear: [33-55-1-138-104]
    19mm, Early 325i Sport - Rear: [33-55-1-138-326]

    24mm, Standard Suspension - Front: [31-35-1-090-263]
    15mm, Standard Suspension - Rear: [33-55-1-131-155]
    17mm, Standard Suspension - Rear: [33-55-1-136-491]

    23.5mm, 318i - Front: [31-35-1-091-228]
    26mm, 318i Sport - Front: [31-35-1-140-188]
    14mm, 318ti - Rear: [33-55-1-135-720]
    16mm, 318ti - Rear: [33-55-1-129-700]


    __________________________________________________


    III - Front Axle:



    1: Swaybar Endlink (M3)
    2: Front Spring
    3: Front Shock Mount
    4: Swaybar (it is positioned differently on the car)
    5: Swaybar Bushing/Bracket
    6: Strut
    7: Control Arm Bushing/Bracket
    8: Swaybar Endlink (Standard 3-Series)
    9: Control Arm
    10: Wheel Bearing/Hub
    11. Tie Rod End


    Front Suspension Overview:
    The E36's front suspension is a McPherson Strut+Static Coilover design allowing only toe (via tie rod length) to be adjusted from the factory. The motion ratio for the front shock and spring is ~.94. For more information on the suspension type, see here: [ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MacPherson_strut[/ame].


    Control Arms
    Control arms attach to the spindle with the outboard ball joint, the front subframe with the inboard ball joint, and to the undercarriage with the rod end. The M3 arms lack the mounting point for the forward swayer. If you want to use the M3 spec, you will need an M3 strut housings. If you want to use M3 control arms, you will need M3 struts to mount to as your new control arms will not have the mounting points. The OBD1 and OBD2 M3s have different control arms designed to be used with different (centered vs offset) control arm bushings (see below). The OBD1 M3 arm is identical in geometry to the 3-Series arm. OBD2 M3 arms are of different geometry, having moved the spindle-side ball joint slightly towards the font of the car. Both types of M3 suspension end up with the same caster angles (if the proper control arm bushing is used).

    You will usually want to simply replace these outright, and in pairs. It is the first thing to bend when you hit a curb with your wheel however, metal failures are not especially common and are not the primary reason for replacement. The ball joints in these arms will wear out and develop significant amounts of play, the inner one first usually. This will lead to an indirect front suspension. It is possible to replace the outer (spindle-side) ball joint on a standard 3-Series control arm (part number below). No M3 ball joints are replaceable. M3 control arms will last longer and perform better.

    Note: If you find the locknut just spinning on the end of the balljoint shaft while removing or installing your control arms. Lift the outside end of the control arm slightly with a hydraulic jack, then have somebody press down with their weight on the spindle while you tighten the nut. This can prevent it from spinning if the friction fit isn't tight enough.

    3-Series: left [31-12-6-758-513], right [31-12-6-758-514], replaceable outer ball joint [31-12-6-758-510]
    OBD1 M3: left [31-12-2-227-249], right [31-12-2-227-250]
    OBD2 M3: left [31-12-2-228-461], right [31-12-2-228-462]


    Lower/Front Control Arm Bushing (LCAB/FCAB)
    Used to attach the rod end of the forward control arm to the undercarriage. They are pressed into brackets (lollipops) which are of unique shape right to left. 3-Series FCABs are 'webbed'. OBD2 M3 bushings are more solid and centered, they are upgrade for the standard 3-Series. OBD1 M3 bushings have an offset control arm hole.

    The webbed 3-series bushings are prone to failure. M3 solid bushings will last longer, although many aftermarket bushings will provide even greater directness and durability. Failure is easy to detect simply by interacting with the bushing. Cracks, tears, large amounts of play... all signs that it should be replaced.

    Some debate surrounds the forces acting on the FCABs and exactly what material is the best in this application. Many people employ aftermarket poly of varying densities with positive results. However, some individuals say that rubber may be a better option due to the multi-axial deflection they undergo which poly is not good at coping with. Presently the author of this guide supports rubber OEM replacements for street duty, your mileage may vary.

    There seems to be confusion as to how installation of OEM replacement bushings should take place, and what the purpose of the lubricant/adhesive is. Essentially BMW does not want the arm to rotate inside of the bushing. They want the bushing to 'twist' (which is why it is webbed) as the suspension articulates. In this light the BMW spec process for installation makes more sense. You install the bushing with adhesive and drop the car to normal ride height before it begins to set. This way when the adhesive sets up the control arm will be bonded to the bushing without preload when at normal ride height. When you lower or raise a car there will be some preload added to the this bushing.

    Bracket: left [31-12-1-139-789], right [31-12-1-139-790]
    3-Series (centered bushing): [31-12-9-059-288]
    OBD2 M3 (centered bushing): [31-12-9-069-035]
    OBD1 M3 (offset bushing): [31-12-9-064-875]


    Strut Mounts (Forward Shock Mount)
    The upper mount for the strut. These should be swapped out for aftermarket camber plates for adjustable camber. The OBD2 M3 mount is different left to right and can be swapped to the 'wrong' side for an increase in camber however, steering becomes more difficult (caster increase). This location benefits from reinforcement plates, and sandwiching with a strut bar.

    3-Series: [31-33-6-769-585], early build 325i [31-33-1-139-436]
    OBD1 M3: [31-33-2-228-345]
    OBD2 M3: left [31-33-2-227-897], right [31-33-2-227-898]
    Reinforcement Plates: [31-31-2-489-795]


    Tie Rods
    These attach to the steering rack and to the spindle. They transmit steering action to the wheels. Tie rods are two-piece units, the primary steering rack attachment piece and a second section containing the ball joint that attaches to the spindle. The ends are most susceptible to bending, and the ball joint wears out. Play in the steering, shimmy under braking, and leaking ball joints are all signs that they need replacement.

    Note: If you find the locknut just spinning on the end of the balljoint shaft while removing or installing your tie rods. Lift the outside end of the tie rod slightly with a hydraulic jack, then have somebody press down with their weight on the knuckle while you tighten the nut. This can prevent it from spinning if the friction fit isn't tight enough.

    Tie Rod End: left [32-11-1-139-313], right [32-11-1-139-314]


    __________________________________________________


    IV - Rear Axle:



    1: Shock Mount
    2: Shock
    3: Swaybar Bracket
    4: Swaybar Endlink
    5: Upper Ball Joint
    6: Rear Subframe Bushing (62.5mm)
    7: Wheel Bearing
    8: Lower Bushing/Ball Joint
    9: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing
    10: Camber Arm
    11: Inner Camber Arm Bushing
    12: Inner Wishbone Bushing
    13: Spring
    14: Swaybar
    15: Diff Bushing and Bolt
    16: Forward Subframe Bushing (60.5mm)


    Rear Suspension Overview:
    This end of the car is substantially more complicated, has several points with propensity to fail. It is of the Independent Multilink/Trailing Arm variety. The motion ratio for the rear is ~1.05 for the shock, ~0.65 for the spring. From the factory it is possible to adjust camber (camber arm eccentric bolt) by a small amount, and toe (trailing arm carrier position). For more information see here: [ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trailing_arm[/ame] and here: [ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multilink_suspension[/ame].


    Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTAB)
    This bushing attaches the trailing arm to the carrier and in turn to the chassis.

    A frequent wear item. Replacing them with OE will maintain NVH levels but require difficult installation/removal. Several aftermarket 'limiters' are available that constrain the side-side motion this bushing is known for, I suggest these. Poly aftermarket types are available, some have the limiters built-in to their design. There is a bushing offered as 'an OE replacement' by both Pelican and Turner that apparently holds up better, realoem.com cross-reference searches can not match it to anything, but the part number is below.

    Failure is often characterized by a squeaking from the rear when the suspension articulates (bumps, corners), and wandering of the rear at speed and around corners.

    Some debate surrounds the forces acting on the RTABs and exactly what material is the best in this application. Many people employ aftermarket poly of varying densities with positive results (some with integrated limiters, some without). However, some individuals say that rubber plus limiters may be a better option due to the multi-axial deflection they undergo which poly is not good at coping with. Presently the author of this guide supports rubber OEM replacements with limiters for street duty, your mileage may vary. A concern is that binding in this location is a one of the primary causes of trailing arm bolt socket tear-through.

    There seems to be confusion as to how installation of OEM replacement bushings should take place, and what the purpose of the preload process is. Essentially BMW does not want preload in the bushing at stock ride height, they want the bushing to 'twist' as the suspension articulates. It is very important to use a method to determine what the correct preload is, taking into account your car's specific ride height. Specific discussion is available here. When you lower or raise a car there will be some preload added to the this bushing.

    RTAB:[33-32-6-770-786]
    'Stronger' RTAB: [33-32-2-228-153]


    Trailing Arm Bushings
    There are two other bushing locations on the trailing arm. In the standard 3-Series the upper mount (for the wishbone) is occupied by a ball joint, the lower (for the camber arm) by a bushing. In the M3 both upper and lower locations use ball joints. The M3's setup is better and ball joints in all four locations is an upgrade for the standard car. There are are also four bushings on the subframe end for both wishbones and camber arms.

    These trailing arm bushings/ball joints wear out somewhat less rapidly than the OE RTAB. Standard ball joint failure modes (grease leakage, large amounts of play) apply here. Failure will also contribute to a loose feeling rear end. The bushing should not even be considered as a replacement on any car. Inner camber arm bushings are generally integrated into aftermarket camber arms, which you SHOULD buy.

    For an explanation of why ball joints are better than bushings in the rear lower location, see here.

    Trailing Arm Bushing: [33-32-1-136-311] OR [33-32-6-771-828]
    Trailing Arm Ball Joint: [33-32-6-775-551]
    Wishbone Inner Bushing: [33-32-1-092-247]
    Camber Arm Inner Bushing: [33-32-6-770-824]


    Camber Arm/Rear Lower Control Arm
    The camber arm connects the bottom of the trailing arm to the subframe. It allows a very limited amount of camber control in stock form, and a great deal more with an adjustable aftermarket unit. Any and every E36 should replace the stock piece with a real adjustable camber arm.

    OE Camber Arm: [33-32-6-770-813]


    Subframe/Differential Bushings
    The subframe bolts up to the underside of the chassis by four points, each containing a large bushing. They are meant to isolate the subframe movement from the vehicle. On the 3-Series the bushings rest directly against the sheet metal of the undercarriage which is not especially strong. M3s come with reinforcement plates welded in at the mounting locations. It is suggested that ALL E36s receive this treatment, and it is absolutely necessary if more power is being pushed through the chassis. Keeping the subframe bushings in good condition will help minimize the risk of metal tearing.

    There is a forward diff bushing/bolt on the lower passenger side of the carrier. It is wise to upgrade this bolt (stock is 8.8 metric grade) to a higher grade. If putting a lot of power through the chassis, upgrade further to a thicker one. There are also low-maintenance bushings in the ears of the differential itself.

    All of the subframe bushings/diff mount+bolt should be done at once. Several aftermarket poly replacements are available and do not add too much NVH. There is apparently a different bushing (same size) for the front of the M3 subframe, I don't know what the difference is but have included it below. Have all of these bushings done at 75K miles if not beforehand. A clunk or thud under acceleration is the most common sign of something amiss with the subframe or diff mount.

    Subframe Rear Bushings (62.5mm): [33-31-9-059-301]
    3-Series Subframe Forward Bushings (60.5mm): [33-31-9-059-300]
    M3 Subframe Forward Bushings (60.5mm): [33-31-9-066-671]
    Forward Diff Bushing: [33-17-1-134-910]
    Diff Ear Bushings: [33-17-1-134-872]
    Forward Diff Bolt: [33-17-6-750-780] (M12x1.5x80)
    Reinforcement Plates: [4111225649], front left [41-00-2-256-495], front right [41-00-2-256-496], rear left [41-11-2-256-497], rear right [41-11-2-256-498]
    10.9 Metric Grade Diff Bolt: [33-32-1-090-693]


    Rear Shock Mount (RSM)
    RSM is part of the rear shock stack, and mounts to the shock tower.

    BMW did not properly reinforce this location from the factory. Replace your OE ones with stronger reinforced aftermarket mounts. These are not a load-bearing suspension component as such. However, BMW has in the past sold reinforcement plates as well. Clunking from the trunk over bumps is a sign of bad RSMs. Inspections can reveal cracking and push-through of the shock. Worst case scenario failure can result in tearing of the rear shock mount.

    Materials choice for this location is of debate. The rear shock articulates in a swing motion which can bind when using poly bushings (once again a multi-axial force). Not only would this apply extra force to the shock tower, it would cause the shock to perform incompletely. Rubber is said to be an ideal candidate here.

    3-Series Shock Mount: [33-50-4-035-929]
    M3 Shock Mount: [33-52-1-137-972]
    BMW Reinforcement Plate: [51-71-8-255-291]


    __________________________________________________


    V - Suspension Kits:


    I've been noticing more than one person asking where they can source suspension kits from. I've located and linked a few kits here. If you know of another kit please post it up and I will add it. I am not endorsing these companies, use your own good judgement when purchasing equipment for your car.

    ECS Tuning offers several levels of suspension kits for the E36 (it appears they use Meyle manufacture items).
    - Suspension Kits

    Turner Motorsport has a rear suspension rebuild kit and a chassis reinforcement kit that has the parts to reinforce all the weak chassis points on the E36.
    - Reinforcement Kit
    - Rear Suspension Kit

    Pelican Parts also offers a number of fairly serious kits.
    - Suspension Kits, pages 1 and 2.


    __________________________________________________


    VI - Technical Discussions:

    The Tire as a Critical Suspension Component

    Tires seem to be the most overlooked aspect of suspension in hobbyist circles. They are the only thing connecting your vehicle with the road and thus all of the actions you perform will be governed by the quality and consistency of the tires.

    As tires are the first thing to encounter anything on the road, they are also the first to react to it. Tires have a spring rate associated with them and this plays dramatically into how your car rides, how quickly it responds, and how much traction it has. The smaller the sidewall and the colder the tire the less compliance it will have, as tires heat up the ride quality and grip levels will improve. Similarly as the sidewall profile increases so will ride comfort; unfortunately so too will the delay in steering input. There is a happy medium among comfort, optimal temperature level, steering steering response, grip in various conditions, weight, and price that each driver must select individually. We will consider each:

    Comfort: The greatest determining factor here is sidewall height, a 225/50 will have much more give and thus comfort than a 225/30. Obviously spring rate between different tires for the same sidewall height can be very different, so this is a general guideline, not an absolute rule.

    Grip: When driving on bumpy surfaces the tire does a great deal of work to keep traction. Running very small or stiff sidewall tires on surfaces you know to be bumpy (street applications?) will result in reduced traction. One of the greater aspects of tire grip is contact patch dimensionality. Clearly basic physics can tell us that if the car's weight (not mass) remains the same a wider tire will not give us more contact area, it will merely change the shape. Shape matters a great deal when discussing things like slip and lateral vs longitudinal grip.

    Temperature: Relating to grip, a tire that you can bring to proper temperature is very necessary. Touring tires tend to be made of compounds that will have good grip characteristics when driven normally. Extreme performance tires must be heated up somewhat before they begin to exercise their full friction potential. As extreme cases racing slicks don't work at all when they're cold, but become unbelievably sticky when warmed up whereas snow tires are made of a compound that is pliable at low temperatures, but will self-destruct quickly if heated too much. Not only is compound important when relating to temperature, so is tire size. Can you heat up a 245/45 tire? Or are you only able to put in enough heat in to bring a 225/45 into the optimal zone. There is simply more rubber to heat up in a larger tire therefore it will take longer and require greater stress to do so.

    Steering Input: More responsive steering as it relates to tires is affected by sidewall stiffness, sidewall height, and tire weight. Tires with shorter sidewalls will respond to drive input faster, and lighter tires will be easier to turn thus granting the driver better 'feel'.

    Conditions: Different tires are designed for different applications, and owning a set for each major situation you expect to encounter is a very wise idea. Those who live in Tahoe or Canada would do well to own a set of snow tires, and a set of performance summer tires. I live in California and personally maintain 3 sets of tires - one for summer, one for winter, one for track. The fact of the matter is all seasons are always a compromise, and not exceptional at anything.

    Essentially compound is more important than width, thinner sidewalls are not always better. Like everything else in cars one must consider tires as part of a system and make compromises based upon their demands.

    Tire Pressure can have a dramatic impact on tire spring rate, the shape of the contact patch, the input feeling, and pressure also scales with temperature. Playing with tire pressures is a big part of getting a car to handle excellently. There is no wrong answer here except the extremes; do not under-inflate a tire so that it can fold over on itself, or over-inflate it so that it is at risk of bursting when heated.

    Note that Joest at CC ventured an interesting if simplistic way of measuring tire spring rates:
    To determine this input, first I would inflate the tire to hot pressure, then mark the tire and the ground. Next roll the car forward until the distance traveled for one rotation can be measured. Use the formula diameter = circumference/pi to calculate diameter. Repeat this with the tire off the car. The difference in radius is the compressed distance. Now simply divide the corner weight by the difference in radius and you have your spring rate. Obviously this assumes a linear spring rate.


    __________________________________________________


    Related Reads:
    Turner Motorsport's Comprehensive Spacers Guide
    E36 M3 Alignment Guide by joenationwide (applies to the standard 3-Series cars as well)
    E36 M3 Suspension Guide by joenationwide
    Shock Valving and How It Effects Your Suspension



    Note: These part numbers and base images were taken from several sources: Pelican Parts, Turner Motorsport, Real OEM. Designed to inform only.

    ______________________________________

    some more helpful links added by ducky328i 4-13-10; info gathered by ckpitt55.



    All non-M E36's do not have subframe reinforcements. Why you should care:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...bframe+tearing

    DIY of the whole process:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1408487

    Rebuilt half shafts DIY:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1398300

    Subframe washer cupping / E90 bolt discussion:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...frame+bushings

    Rebuilt wheel bearings DIY:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1231517

    DIY Bushing Press:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=784522
    Last edited by Evil Spoonman; 07-08-2010 at 03:23 AM.
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    This is a thread-in-progress. I will continue to update, fine tune, and collate data and images on the matter. Goals at the moment:

    - What exactly is different about forward control arms between all models? Bushing density, replaceability, and geometrical differences. As well as the true advantages of each.
    - The actual geometrical advantage posed by the M3 forward swaybar design and any inherent disadvantages it may have (I have seen folks hint that there are a few).
    - Clarify the diagrams somewhat. They are my composites using realoem.com diagrams as a base point.
    - Provide an image of each main OEM piece, and if possible explain what primary failure modes they exhibit, how to detect failure, and why these failures happen.
    - Determine if there is a shortage of grease in OE wheel bearings, and if so how to pull them apart and pack them for proper life.
    - Some sort of more comprehensive aftermarket parts listing for each component.
    - Links to and perhaps reformatting and compiling of DIYs on these topics.

    NOTE: If anybody wants to donate server space I can turn this into a website instead (more navigation and organization options).

    At some point in the future I may compile other topics in this way... most likely starting with brakes or the cooling system.
    Last edited by shogun; 01-14-2016 at 08:26 PM.
    "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." - Hunter S. Thompson
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  3. #3
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    WTG, this is a really good effort. So talk to us more about valving shocks, since you identify that as being so critical. Like if I call up Bilstein and tell them that I have an E36 with H&R springs, will they pop some nonstandard valves into their shocks for me?

  4. #4
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    My 95 has the original shocks under it. I am considering what to put on it. I don't plan on racing the car, but I do want something comfortable and handles the road well. I was considering the stage 2 kit from pelican, do any of you have it?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger1 View Post
    WTG, this is a really good effort. So talk to us more about valving shocks, since you identify that as being so critical. Like if I call up Bilstein and tell them that I have an E36 with H&R springs, will they pop some nonstandard valves into their shocks for me?
    Because I do not dabble in valving shocks intimately (just racing the results), I'm better off letting this thread explain it to you: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...=981161&page=2

    Know that I have ridden on custom valved shocks side-to-side with the factory valved variants (all other things being equal) and the difference is simply alarming. It took a few experiences with different shocks, springrates, and vehicles but I am an absolute believer in correct valving. If you think about it though, most everything logically falls into place once shock valving is the central issue.

    The shock is what governs the wheel's reaction to the road. If you hit a bump, yes the spring compresses, but more than that the impact forces the shock to absorb the bump at a rate which will keep the tire in contact with the surface. Then push it back down at a rate that not only maintains does not 'bounce' or unsettle the vehicle and still maintains tire contact. There is low, medium, and high speed rebound and compression occurring in a shock (and perhaps more than that). Various speeds of piston movement result in different reactions.

    The geometry (bushings, control arms, trailing arms, ball joints, mounts) controls the alignment and articulation of the tire. The spring separates the sprung and unsprung masses with a flexible yet transmissive layer. The shock is responsible for keeping the tire attached to the road.

    Why does the H&R Sport behave like crap with Bilstein Sports, but much more civilized with Konis? Well... mid-speed rebound and damping (the part of the shock response that most actively controls the spring) are so different between them. Why are coilovers so much smoother despite having identical spring rates to many individual spring sets? It's due to the fact that they are factory valved to work well with the springs they ship with. Why can you drive a very harsh spring setup (700/800) and still have the car be relatively tolerable, yet another car with much softer springs (320/400) feels like it's crashing into every bump? A properly valved shock can control the spring's reaction, thus maintaining the suppleness of the ride and tire contact.

    I will see if I can't get a better dissertation on this in the future. From somebody that knows more than me ideally. I do not believe Bilstein (or any other shock company for that matter) will custom-valve you a shock set, unfortunately. I wish they would.
    Last edited by Evil Spoonman; 04-18-2009 at 11:45 AM.
    "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." - Hunter S. Thompson
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  6. #6
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    Wow, thank you for making this thread. Being pretty new to this I learned a lot. The diagrams were a great touch. I look forward to reading more of your right ups.

  7. #7
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    Why does the H&R Sport behave like crap with Bilstein Sports, but much more civilized with Konis?


    I was getting ready to purchase the H&R sport springs and the Bilstein sport shocks for my 95 325i vert but now I am re-thinking this based upon your post (well-written by the way) and this particularly quoted comment.

    Could you enlighten me just a bit more about this combination? I am a pretty regular reader of these posts but have not really heard about this. Thanks very much

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uliman View Post
    Why does the H&R Sport behave like crap with Bilstein Sports, but much more civilized with Konis?

    I was getting ready to purchase the H&R sport springs and the Bilstein sport shocks for my 95 325i vert but now I am re-thinking this based upon your post (well-written by the way) and this particularly quoted comment.

    Could you enlighten me just a bit more about this combination? I am a pretty regular reader of these posts but have not really heard about this. Thanks very much
    Well primarily I was speaking of the E36 M3 variant of the Bilstein Sport. For some unknown reason Bilstein seems to have gotten the valving on that shock completely wrong and it is, no other word for it, dreadful.

    The standard 3-Series Bilstein Sport setup is nowhere near as bad, to the best of my knowledge it is valved in a relatively pleasing way. Konis do tend to provide a more comfortable ride than Bilsteins with factory valving and are adjustable (if you feel like getting technical).

    I would pull the trigger on the H&R/Bilstein combo so long as you stay with the shocks designed for the 325/328. Just fyi there is an ongoing Bilstein group buy that has the best prices I've seen. Tire Rack tends to have good prices on H&R Springs.

    It is weird that most people haven't heard of the concept of shock valving. Actually off-road guys are pretty hip to it and have been doing it for years. I'm sort of confused why it hasn't trickled down to the performance car enthusiast yet in a big way.


    Cheers.
    Last edited by Evil Spoonman; 04-18-2009 at 12:42 PM.
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  9. #9
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    Very well done Spoonman! You've done a great job here. Thanks for the link in the Definitive Alignment thread, these subjects go hand in hand.

    Years ago (on DTM Power IIRC) there was a table of spring rates of the popular aftermarket spring choices for E36, if you could find that I think it would be helpful.

    Also, I wonder if actually giving advice about some of the tried and true E36 Coilover systems (Koni/GC, PSS9s, ASTs, etc) may be helpful to reduce the question..."how are xyz coilovers".

    From my experience, Koni SA shocks and struts have comfortable compression damping on the street, and perform well up to about 500-550# spring rates. I just switched to the PSS9 kit (dampers only using GC coils), and the compression is noticeably stiffer, but they can control significantly higher spring rates, which where Im creeping toward. Also, I know there are fundamental differences between twin tube and monotube (monotube have higher gas pressures, and less hysteresis), but I don't know enough about the differences to be really knowledgeable. Maybe you can shed some light on that too.

    Also, maybe you are willing to go into suspension theory of the E36 chassis. I don't know if anyone has yet explained the concept of keeping the front end stiff with lots of static neg camber, and running the rear softer to allow for a nice dynamic camber curve. Also, the concept of tuning with sway bars, spring rates, and shock damping. You think those things are realistic to tackle?
    Last edited by shogun; 01-14-2016 at 08:32 PM.

  10. #10
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    One thing I'm confused about is the two mentions of Trailing Arm Bushings related to the rear axle. One is mentioned as RTAB, and one merely "Rear Trailing Arm Bushing". Should I change both?

    On another note, I wanted to change my front LCABs and so I ordered 33-32-1-136-311, but that's actually something completely different! eEuroparts.com lists it as "trailing arm bushing (lower)" for the rear! Instead I need 31-12-9-059-288 for my front LCABs.

    So now I need to figure out what the hell I need to do my RTABs. Do I need 33-32-6-770-786? eEuroparts.com list that as "Trailing Arm Bushing (upper)" for the rear.

    The other thing I ordered -- 33-32-1-097-009 -- I have no idea what it's for! Rogue Engineering show it as the 1995 E36 RTAB.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by numbah9; 05-06-2009 at 10:48 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by numbah9 View Post
    One thing I'm confused about is the two mentions of Trailing Arm Bushings related to the rear axle. One is mentioned as RTAB, and one merely "Rear Trailing Arm Bushing". Should I change both?

    On another note, I wanted to change my front LCABs and so I ordered 33-32-1-136-311, but that's actually something completely different! eEuroparts.com lists it as "trailing arm bushing (lower)" for the rear! Instead I need 31-12-9-059-288 for my front LCABs.

    So now I need to figure out what the hell I need to do my RTABs. Do I need 33-32-6-770-786? eEuroparts.com list that as "Trailing Arm Bushing (upper)" for the rear.

    The other thing I ordered -- 33-32-1-097-009 -- I have no idea what it's for! Rogue Engineering show it as the 1995 E36 RTAB.
    RTABS that most speak about have a ring or tab that goes around the entire circumference of the bushing. They mount to the body as opposed to the 'other' type of trailing arm bushings that mount only to suspension pieces.

    The picture below shows what I'm talking about. The part # is 33-32-2-228-153. I looked that up on www.rmeuropean.com for a '97 E36 M3.

    Doug
    Attached Images Attached Images


    '97 M3/4

  12. #12
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    The rear trailing arm has a bushing in the leading edge of it and the entire front of the training arm with bushing bolts into a carrier box and the carrier box bolts up to the under side of the chassis. This carrier box has slotted holes for the bolts allowing it to slide side to side and is how the rear wheel toe is set.

    The RTAB bushing you speak of does not mount to the body it mounts in the trailing arm and that assy is bolted to the body. The rear trailing arm is further supported by two control arms and the shock...an upper control arm and a lower control arm. The rear upper control arm captures the spring and the rear lower control arm sets rear wheel camber through an articulating bolt. The inboard end of the upper and lower CAs contain bushings (bearings) and are attach to the subframe. The shock completes the triangulation.

    Hope this helps.

    -E
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  13. #13
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    This is a great thread, one to subscribe too! Thanks for the effort.

    I about to tear out my rear sub-frame and go though it all and swap my ring and pinnion.

    Any ideas as to who sells complete bushing kits?
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  14. #14
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    RTAB = Rear Trailing Arm Bushing

  15. #15
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    Great thread!

    First thread I subscribed to. I have a lot of questions and I guess I will just post them as they come to mind instead of making one giant post.


    My car is 100% for street use:


    Can I buy OEM bushing in a kit? As in a whole set?

    Is it worth it to get an aftermarket camber plates for street use only? Are there any downsides to them?




    Quote Originally Posted by Evil Spoonman View Post
    I do not believe Bilstein (or any other shock company for that matter) will custom-valve you a shock set, unfortunately. I wish they would.
    I was looking around for info on revalving and when I finally entered "bilstein revalving" into google the first hit I get is this:


    http://www.bilstein.com/services.php


    $75 each strut, $65 each shock (for non adjustables). Dyno sheets included

    Complete pricing list at that link.


    It appears that lots of people are interested in revalving. Should we bump that old thread you linked to, keep it in this thread or start a new one?


  16. #16
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    Wishbone Inner Bushing: [33-32-1-092-247]
    Camber Arm Inner Bushing: [33-32-6-770-824]

    Anyone have experience with the symptoms of one of these failing on a lowered car? Click when pushing down hard on the back of the car? That becomes a rattle when the suspension moves up and down on rough roads?

    I'm still not really clear on the replacement procedure for this and what would be considered an upgrade on a 99 m3...

  17. #17
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    Nice work and well-written!

    The "interchangeability" in suspension parts does make me wonder how feasible outfitting my '93 325i with the "iS"...or even an M3 (gasp!) suspension is...I realize the FSB aren't interchangeable with an M3, but what about the "iS?" And "iS" springs...RSB and springs (assuming these truly are "stiffer" parts over the "i.")
    Todd Owenby

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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtechnica View Post
    Wishbone Inner Bushing: [33-32-1-092-247]
    Camber Arm Inner Bushing: [33-32-6-770-824]

    Anyone have experience with the symptoms of one of these failing on a lowered car? Click when pushing down hard on the back of the car? That becomes a rattle when the suspension moves up and down on rough roads?

    I'm still not really clear on the replacement procedure for this and what would be considered an upgrade on a 99 m3...
    Check your rear shock mounts, and the body where the RSM's attach. I have cracks in mine and had to replace that portion of the body.

    Peel the trunk carpet back and take a peek.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by numbah9 View Post
    One thing I'm confused about is the two mentions of Trailing Arm Bushings related to the rear axle. One is mentioned as RTAB, and one merely "Rear Trailing Arm Bushing". Should I change both?

    On another note, I wanted to change my front LCABs and so I ordered 33-32-1-136-311, but that's actually something completely different! eEuroparts.com lists it as "trailing arm bushing (lower)" for the rear! Instead I need 31-12-9-059-288 for my front LCABs.

    So now I need to figure out what the hell I need to do my RTABs. Do I need 33-32-6-770-786? eEuroparts.com list that as "Trailing Arm Bushing (upper)" for the rear.

    The other thing I ordered -- 33-32-1-097-009 -- I have no idea what it's for! Rogue Engineering show it as the 1995 E36 RTAB.
    I know this thread is getting old but it's a good one.
    My question is where Spoonman says not to use the lower outter control arm bushing but use M3 ball joint style...
    Should I have bought extra outter upper (33-32-6-775-551) x 4 and used it for the lowers AND uppers? They look like the same dimentions.
    Also I'm thinking I should have got the RTAB side plates. Might do that along with a later upgrade.
    Attached are photos of the Trailing Arm Bushings that I am about to install.
    Left to right goes:
    Inner control arm lower, outter control arm lower, outter control arm upper and the big one is RTAB.
    33-32-1-092-247, 33-32-1-136-311, 33-32-6-775-551, 33-32-2-228-153
    Hope that helps!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Eric
    /OO\(][)/OO\

  20. #20
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    First things first...an absolutely marvelous thread!

    I have a '95 OBDI 325is with new Koni and Eibach shocks/springs. Lately, I am getting a vibration after going over a frost heave or high crack in the road...it sort of flutters after-the-fact.

    I'm thinking it's the LCABs. Can I do the M3 LCABs by themselves? Do I have to get M3 control arms as well and at the same time? Is it relatively easy to swap out the arms and LCABs together? I remember reading that the '96+ LCABs were better.

    Any help/comments welcomed...and thanks...
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BostonRog View Post
    First things first...an absolutely marvelous thread!

    I have a '95 OBDI 325is with new Koni and Eibach shocks/springs. Lately, I am getting a vibration after going over a frost heave or high crack in the road...it sort of flutters after-the-fact.

    I'm thinking it's the LCABs. Can I do the M3 LCABs by themselves? Do I have to get M3 control arms as well and at the same time? Is it relatively easy to swap out the arms and LCABs together? I remember reading that the '96+ LCABs were better.

    Any help/comments welcomed...and thanks...
    The way I understand it:
    If you are planning on upgrading to M3 control arms you have to pick which year range to go with. I think the diff from < 1995 and > 1995 M3 is that on the '96 and up the LCAB is centered for M3 and pre 96 is offset from the center. If you use the pre '96 offset with 325i control arm your front wheels will sit foward about a quarter inch which is only an issue if you have oversized tires/ offset rims on front.
    I think you can use 96+ LCABs with pre 96 325 control arms and position will not change but if you ever upgrade control arms and dont want the wheel forward offset then remember to get the 96+ M3 control arms. A mistake I made when ordering the 96+ LCABs was I bought twice as many as needed because Pelican sells them in pairs unlike a lot of their other parts (when buying the bushings alone not the preassembled lolipop). That's how I understand it anyway.
    I'm about to attempt to install the 96+ M3 control arms and LCABs on my '95 325i so if im wrong... Well, I'll post either way.
    Cheers!
    Eric
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  22. #22
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    Theres a lot of great and useful information here!

    But what I havnt seen is what shock/spring combos ARE vavled properly and work harmoniously. I had no idea about the H&R/Bilstein sport package not handling particularly well, a lot of people have great reviews of it.

    Which is why i think this thread is so important. Someone who has a LOT of experience with suspension can provide recomendations on what a proper setup is. I personally dont have much suspension experience, so whos to say that I wouldnt think my improperly vavled shock/spring combo "handled amazingly"? I have no experience to compare it too...

    So what IS a good spring/shock combo? If your going for a 1" drop, and better handling on an M3/32x....whats the best combination?

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  23. #23
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    just a simple question. when taking off rear springs, do we actually need to disconnect drive shaft from the differential as shown in Bentley manual?

  24. #24
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    you just disconnect the shocks and push the trailing arm down with your foot then you can grab the spring and yank er out
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  25. #25
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    just replaced all of my bushings about two weeks ago, I used this and some other threads as a guide. The car after getting an alignment rides perfectly, I went with all oem and highly recommend it

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