E39 Motor and Transmission Mounts

[BlackBMWs]

Thanks for the detailed writeup. I'm afraid to look at mine but they have to be done.

Thanks! Don't worry, you can view this DIY while you are doing the fix from the mobile access point in your car! very cool...

[jnyost]

Hey Jared! Hope all is going well with the new shop! I suspect you may get a few orders for both type of mounts from the 540i Brethren. Do you get many orders from the I6 dudes as well for these mounts?

Probably 60% V8 and 40% I6. Even the I6s have enough torque to destroy them. Motor mounts were always an issue with the 4.0L I6 Jeeps too. Torque destroys motor mounts.

[gdp]

I think someone was asking about replacing I6 motor mounts and tranny mounts. Well, I did both over the last 2 nights. Bought parts from Jared.

Motor mounts were a little bit of a pain. Impact wrench helps. I wound up removing the mechanical fan to allow enough motor jacking movement to allow the old mount to be removed. The drivers side motor mount was pretty easy, but there is a shield that has to be moved out of the way on the pass. side to allow getting the motor mount out.

I would suggest removing the lower nuts of the tranny mounts before you jack up the motor to change the motor mounts. It allows the motor to twist and facilitates removing the motor mounts. The studs on the mounts are long and you have to get the engine high enough to clear them of their holes.

I noticed the engine seemed smoother. I say this because I remember along time ago when the car was newer I used to find myself driving in second gear at 4k rpms and didn't notice it because it was smooth.

I notice that again. Just a day after changing the mounts, I don't notice any vibrations. Granted my mounts did not look bad at all, but they made a difference.

[Jason5driver]

I think someone was asking about replacing I6 motor mounts and tranny mounts. Well, I did both over the last 2 nights. Bought parts from Jared.

Motor mounts were a little bit of a pain. Impact wrench helps. I wound up removing the mechanical fan to allow enough motor jacking movement to allow the old mount to be removed. The drivers side motor mount was pretty easy, but there is a shield that has to be moved out of the way on the pass. side to allow getting the motor mount out.

I would suggest removing the lower nuts of the tranny mounts before you jack up the motor to change the motor mounts. It allows the motor to twist and facilitates removing the motor mounts. The studs on the mounts are long and you have to get the engine high enough to clear them of their holes.

I noticed the engine seemed smoother. I say this because I remember along time ago when the car was newer I used to find myself driving in second gear at 4k rpms and didn't notice it because it was smooth.

I notice that again. Just a day after changing the mounts, I don't notice any vibrations. Granted my mounts did not look bad at all, but they made a difference.

Excellent!
Thanks for the feedback!
Did you lift the engine up from the under the oil pan with a jack?

Any pictures?
Thanks!
Jason

[BlackBMWs]

I think someone was asking about replacing I6 motor mounts and tranny mounts. Well, I did both over the last 2 nights. Bought parts from Jared.

Motor mounts were a little bit of a pain. Impact wrench helps. I wound up removing the mechanical fan to allow enough motor jacking movement to allow the old mount to be removed. The drivers side motor mount was pretty easy, but there is a shield that has to be moved out of the way on the pass. side to allow getting the motor mount out.

I would suggest removing the lower nuts of the tranny mounts before you jack up the motor to change the motor mounts. It allows the motor to twist and facilitates removing the motor mounts. The studs on the mounts are long and you have to get the engine high enough to clear them of their holes.

I noticed the engine seemed smoother. I say this because I remember along time ago when the car was newer I used to find myself driving in second gear at 4k rpms and didn't notice it because it was smooth.

I notice that again. Just a day after changing the mounts, I don't notice any vibrations. Granted my mounts did not look bad at all, but they made a difference.

Thanks! Was the impact wrench used for which nuts/bolts? I did use a 22" ratcheting 3/8" wrench for the top 16mm motor mount flange nuts. Did you loosen those 16mm nuts from above the engine compartment or from under the motor?

For all others 13mm flange nuts, I used a regular 3/8" wrench. Thanks!

[BlackBMWs]

Phil Thompson over in the U.K. recently posted a DIY for motor mounts for a 530D Turbo if anyone is interested. Nice writeup...

http://www.bmwland.co.uk/talker/view...=748523#748523

[jamesdc4]

Sweet!
Nice job and thanks for the write-up!

[f355spider]

Thanks for the write up! The Bentley really doesn't cover this at all, so I have printed out all the details and a buddy is going to help me with this project tomorrow. Will report back on the condition of the mounts. I bought the same brands as you from Autowarehouse.com....came to $150 delivered.

Update, mounts installed. My buddy has a fully equipped home garage with lifts, so we put it up on his two post and had the complete job done in 40 minutes. The right mount top nut can be removed from below, you just need a ratchet with a swivel on it. The drivers side definitely has to be removed from the top. The transmission mounts upper nuts can be removed with a ratcheting box end wrench, without removing the crossmember.

So, condition of my mounts at 125k miles (2001 model year): Right side had the faintest line of a horizontal crack developing in the rubber...probably could have gone considerably longer. Left (drivers side) was fine. Neither had any signs of compression/shortening. Transmission mounts had just started to look like the one of yours that was seperating...they might have gone a bit longer.

All in all, a worthwhile job, and now I have the assurance that they are all fresh and new, and no worries.

Thanks!

[jnyost]

You'll learn to buy from supporting vendors. Not only are we the ones who pay to keep the forums running, but we are also here to help when you have problems.

[f355spider]

You'll learn to buy from supporting vendors. Not only are we the ones who pay to keep the forums running, but we are also here to help when you have problems.

I went to your website first...but not knowing Corteco is actually the oem, I preferred to get the Boge/Sachs brand. What is surprising, is the Boge/Sachs ones are made by Corteco! Yup, came in the Boge box, but Corteco stickers...and when I compared, they looked identical.

Oh, and I agree in supporting forum advertisers...but chastizing me in public is not going to win me over. You gain loyal customers by doing what you always do, provide helpful service and advice, and people learn that does not come for free....it must be rewarded. You do not win customers by reprimanding them publicly.

[jamesdc4]

I went to your website first...but not knowing Corteco is actually the oem, I preferred to get the Boge/Sachs brand. What is surprising, is the Boge/Sachs ones are made by Corteco! Yup, came in the Boge box, but Corteco stickers...and when I compared, they looked identical.

Oh, and I agree in supporting forum advertisers...but chastizing me in public is not going to win me over. You gain loyal customers by doing what you always do, provide helpful service and advice, and people learn that does not come for free....it must be rewarded. You do not win customers by reprimanding them publicly.

f355spider,

I think you're taking Jared a little too literally. I think he's joking with you.

[jnyost]

I went to your website first...but not knowing Corteco is actually the oem, I preferred to get the Boge/Sachs brand. What is surprising, is the Boge/Sachs ones are made by Corteco! Yup, came in the Boge box, but Corteco stickers...and when I compared, they looked identical.

Oh, and I agree in supporting forum advertisers...but chastizing me in public is not going to win me over. You gain loyal customers by doing what you always do, provide helpful service and advice, and people learn that does not come for free....it must be rewarded. You do not win customers by reprimanding them publicly.

Hence the smiley face. I was harassing you, not reprimanding you. You'll learn my playful banter.

f355spider,

I think you're taking Jared a little too literally. I think he's joking with you.

Yep...

[f355spider]

Oh it's you Jared?! Thanks, for the explaination....sorry! Hey, next time I could have saved myself a bunch of research time and simply called you to find out the deal on these engine mounts. From what I found out, Boge/Sachs and Lemforder appear to simply rebox Corteco engine mounts, which are the oem ones. So you can order Boge/Sachs, Lemforder or Corteco, as they are all the same!

I really wanted the Boge/Sachs ones...so that is why I shopped elsewhere. Now I realize they are all the same, with the exception of the Meyle brand.

[jnyost]

No sweat!

Boge/Sachs/Lemforder are all sub-brands of ZF. Corteco manufactures vibration dampening units for a lot of brands including BMW.

[Brasher540i]

My car was shifting weird and whining then sometimes it would go into limp mode. Then I found out I had a broken motor mount. Could this broken motor mounts cause the tranny to shift wierd and go into limp mode. Im replacing the mount this wknd anyway but just wanted to see if anyone knew.

[SpeedsterBek]

Thank you very much for creating such an informative and well written DIY. I'm so happy that I did it myself using this thread and didn't let some grease monkeys touch my car (I've had some bad experiences recently.) I never thought changing motor mounts were so easy!
Anyway It took me about an hour to change my motor mounts, but it was worth the effort. My driverside mount was broken in two pieces, while passengerside was joining the club too. Maybe I'll post a pic if anyone want to see. So after I put the new mounts, my E39 came back to life, quet and luxurious as it's supposed to be.
Again, THANK YOU THANK YOU!

[CSMBlack-540i]

BlackBMWs, Great Write up as usual! I noticed there is also another rubber isolator in RealOEM. Did you check the condition of that while replacing the 2 tranny mounts?

I had this on my TO DO list and while researching parts, I noticed #5 is also rubber too.

Part 33316770851 (Vibration absorber)

[RDR-EURO]

Thanks for an excellant write up! I just did my engine and tranny mounts today. Now it rides alot smoother and two my old engine mounts that I took out had alot of cracks on it and ready to go with only 82k mile on my car.
Also thanks to EACTuning.com for the engine and tranny mounts. I will also be ordering some power steering lines from you guys soon.

[BlackBMWs]

Hi guys! Thanks for the nice comments. I've leaned a bunch here on the forum for various models, so the DIYs or assistance is the least I can do to give back.

I'm glad the write ups help.

Best,

Rich (BlackBMWs)

[f355spider]

Hey, do hope that those that said they replaced their engine mounts, also replaced the transmission mounts...only makes sense to do them all.

And yes, hats off to BlackBMWs, he is a stand up guy in my book!

[SocalKevin]

If you jack up the front of the car shouldn't the wheel chocks be behind the rear wheels?

[CSMBlack-540i]

If you jack up the front of the car shouldn't the wheel chocks be behind the rear wheels?

"Behind" meaning on the side of the tire closer to the rear bumper is correct. Should also apply your e-brake as well when jacking up the front. When jacking up the rear it is CRITICAL to chock the front of the wheels (preferably both sides) as that is the only thing keeping the car from rolling off!

[mda13x]

Thanks for the excellent tutorial!! Will be doing this soon!!

[msousa11]

Replacing the motor mounts in a BMW E39 525d, engine M57.

It's similar to the described in this post.
Althogh I had to:
1- disassemble the pipe that goes from the air filter to the turbo (easy- just two screws)
2- disconnect the aluminium pipe intake for the turbo.
3- Romove the 16mm bolt of the engine mount (air filter side)
4- The other engine mount: just remove the top nut (16mm)
5- Remove the nuts the tight the engine mounts that are located under them (16mm).
6- jack up the engine. look into the refrigeration fan. It can not hit the frame arount it on top. if you look before removing the mounts the fa might be down in case the mounts are really a mess, afterwards it will be centered.
7- There is a Al bracket on top of the engine mount (air filter side). Remove the 4 screws that attach it to the engine
8- remove both mouts (remove the pipes connected to it (for the oil)
9- reconnect the pipes into the new mounts
10- place the new mounts in position (be aware of the position of the pipes)
11- screw in back the bracket 4 screws
12- make the procedures back

Once you start the engine you will feel it like it was new.
Before when doing reverse, I used to feel a transmission failure and lots of vibration and seemed to have lack of force. Now with the new engine mounts all vibrations are gone.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/imaging-...979115/jpeg/SM

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=561425979115%3A 1044020705&sourceId=533754321803&cm_mmc=eMail-_-Share-_-Photos-_-Sharee

[GUTENFAST]

BlackBMWs,
Thanks for the explicit detail in your DIY.
I have an 03 540iA w/68,230 miles. My tech and I did the job yesterday and other than the slight nusance of jiggling/prying the engine mounts out of their akward spots it went relatively smooth. Only had to disconnect the air filter cover to jack up the engine, the fan cleared the shroud with out any problem.
We managed to do the transmission mounts without removing or bending any of the heat shields (we used 1/4" drive tools w/swivels, worked slick).
The old engine mounts were still in very good condition (no sagging or cracks whatsoever), the tranny mounts were OK, one showed signs of separation from the metal cap but only sightly.
The only thing we omitted was the 'lock-tite' on the threads, there wasn't any sign from the old threads so didn't feel it was neccesary, just tightened to torque specs.
Thank-you.