1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
I think someone was asking about replacing I6 motor mounts and tranny mounts. Well, I did both over the last 2 nights. Bought parts from Jared.
Motor mounts were a little bit of a pain. Impact wrench helps. I wound up removing the mechanical fan to allow enough motor jacking movement to allow the old mount to be removed. The drivers side motor mount was pretty easy, but there is a shield that has to be moved out of the way on the pass. side to allow getting the motor mount out.
I would suggest removing the lower nuts of the tranny mounts before you jack up the motor to change the motor mounts. It allows the motor to twist and facilitates removing the motor mounts. The studs on the mounts are long and you have to get the engine high enough to clear them of their holes.
I noticed the engine seemed smoother. I say this because I remember along time ago when the car was newer I used to find myself driving in second gear at 4k rpms and didn't notice it because it was smooth.
I notice that again. Just a day after changing the mounts, I don't notice any vibrations. Granted my mounts did not look bad at all, but they made a difference.
Thanks! Was the impact wrench used for which nuts/bolts? I did use a 22" ratcheting 3/8" wrench for the top 16mm motor mount flange nuts. Did you loosen those 16mm nuts from above the engine compartment or from under the motor?
For all others 13mm flange nuts, I used a regular 3/8" wrench. Thanks!
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
Phil Thompson over in the U.K. recently posted a DIY for motor mounts for a 530D Turbo if anyone is interested. Nice writeup...
http://www.bmwland.co.uk/talker/view...=748523#748523
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
Thanks for the write up! The Bentley really doesn't cover this at all, so I have printed out all the details and a buddy is going to help me with this project tomorrow. Will report back on the condition of the mounts. I bought the same brands as you from Autowarehouse.com....came to $150 delivered.
Update, mounts installed. My buddy has a fully equipped home garage with lifts, so we put it up on his two post and had the complete job done in 40 minutes. The right mount top nut can be removed from below, you just need a ratchet with a swivel on it. The drivers side definitely has to be removed from the top. The transmission mounts upper nuts can be removed with a ratcheting box end wrench, without removing the crossmember.
So, condition of my mounts at 125k miles (2001 model year): Right side had the faintest line of a horizontal crack developing in the rubber...probably could have gone considerably longer. Left (drivers side) was fine. Neither had any signs of compression/shortening. Transmission mounts had just started to look like the one of yours that was seperating...they might have gone a bit longer.
All in all, a worthwhile job, and now I have the assurance that they are all fresh and new, and no worries.
Thanks!
Last edited by f355spider; 05-23-2009 at 08:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You'll learn to buy from supporting vendors. Not only are we the ones who pay to keep the forums running, but we are also here to help when you have problems.
"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti"
I went to your website first...but not knowing Corteco is actually the oem, I preferred to get the Boge/Sachs brand. What is surprising, is the Boge/Sachs ones are made by Corteco! Yup, came in the Boge box, but Corteco stickers...and when I compared, they looked identical.
Oh, and I agree in supporting forum advertisers...but chastizing me in public is not going to win me over. You gain loyal customers by doing what you always do, provide helpful service and advice, and people learn that does not come for free....it must be rewarded. You do not win customers by reprimanding them publicly.
Last edited by f355spider; 05-26-2009 at 10:41 PM.
Last edited by jnyost; 05-27-2009 at 07:07 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti"
Oh it's you Jared?! Thanks, for the explaination....sorry! Hey, next time I could have saved myself a bunch of research time and simply called you to find out the deal on these engine mounts. From what I found out, Boge/Sachs and Lemforder appear to simply rebox Corteco engine mounts, which are the oem ones. So you can order Boge/Sachs, Lemforder or Corteco, as they are all the same!
I really wanted the Boge/Sachs ones...so that is why I shopped elsewhere. Now I realize they are all the same, with the exception of the Meyle brand.
Last edited by f355spider; 05-27-2009 at 02:18 PM.
No sweat!
Boge/Sachs/Lemforder are all sub-brands of ZF. Corteco manufactures vibration dampening units for a lot of brands including BMW.
"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti"
My car was shifting weird and whining then sometimes it would go into limp mode. Then I found out I had a broken motor mount. Could this broken motor mounts cause the tranny to shift wierd and go into limp mode. Im replacing the mount this wknd anyway but just wanted to see if anyone knew.
Thank you very much for creating such an informative and well written DIY. I'm so happy that I did it myself using this thread and didn't let some grease monkeys touch my car (I've had some bad experiences recently.) I never thought changing motor mounts were so easy!
Anyway It took me about an hour to change my motor mounts, but it was worth the effort. My driverside mount was broken in two pieces, while passengerside was joining the club too. Maybe I'll post a pic if anyone want to see. So after I put the new mounts, my E39 came back to life, quet and luxurious as it's supposed to be.
Again, THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Lazy Saturday drive in my E34: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnzvZgPnOos
BlackBMWs, Great Write up as usual! I noticed there is also another rubber isolator in RealOEM. Did you check the condition of that while replacing the 2 tranny mounts?
I had this on my TO DO list and while researching parts, I noticed #5 is also rubber too.
Part 33316770851 (Vibration absorber)
Thanks for an excellant write up! I just did my engine and tranny mounts today. Now it rides alot smoother and two my old engine mounts that I took out had alot of cracks on it and ready to go with only 82k mile on my car.
Also thanks to EACTuning.com for the engine and tranny mounts. I will also be ordering some power steering lines from you guys soon.
Hi guys! Thanks for the nice comments. I've leaned a bunch here on the forum for various models, so the DIYs or assistance is the least I can do to give back.
I'm glad the write ups help.
Best,
Rich (BlackBMWs)
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
Hey, do hope that those that said they replaced their engine mounts, also replaced the transmission mounts...only makes sense to do them all.
And yes, hats off to BlackBMWs, he is a stand up guy in my book!
2001 540 M-Sport (cdn), ST X (KW) coilovers, H&R 15mm spacers, Eibach anti roll bars (28mm/18mm), Beastpower rear antiroll bar brackets, M5 rear chassis reinforcements (traction rods), Strong Strut front upper strut bar, Dinan Stage 1 software, factory M-Audio subs, Bavsound speaker upgrade, Bluebus bluetooth integration, Stop Tech SS brake lines, ATE coated brake rotors, ATE ceramic brake pads.
If you jack up the front of the car shouldn't the wheel chocks be behind the rear wheels?
"Behind" meaning on the side of the tire closer to the rear bumper is correct. Should also apply your e-brake as well when jacking up the front. When jacking up the rear it is CRITICAL to chock the front of the wheels (preferably both sides) as that is the only thing keeping the car from rolling off!
Thanks for the excellent tutorial!! Will be doing this soon!!
Replacing the motor mounts in a BMW E39 525d, engine M57.
It's similar to the described in this post.
Althogh I had to:
1- disassemble the pipe that goes from the air filter to the turbo (easy- just two screws)
2- disconnect the aluminium pipe intake for the turbo.
3- Romove the 16mm bolt of the engine mount (air filter side)
4- The other engine mount: just remove the top nut (16mm)
5- Remove the nuts the tight the engine mounts that are located under them (16mm).
6- jack up the engine. look into the refrigeration fan. It can not hit the frame arount it on top. if you look before removing the mounts the fa might be down in case the mounts are really a mess, afterwards it will be centered.
7- There is a Al bracket on top of the engine mount (air filter side). Remove the 4 screws that attach it to the engine
8- remove both mouts (remove the pipes connected to it (for the oil)
9- reconnect the pipes into the new mounts
10- place the new mounts in position (be aware of the position of the pipes)
11- screw in back the bracket 4 screws
12- make the procedures back
Once you start the engine you will feel it like it was new.
Before when doing reverse, I used to feel a transmission failure and lots of vibration and seemed to have lack of force. Now with the new engine mounts all vibrations are gone.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/imaging-...979115/jpeg/SM
http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=561425979115%3A 1044020705&sourceId=533754321803&cm_mmc=eMail-_-Share-_-Photos-_-Sharee
Last edited by msousa11; 10-31-2010 at 07:09 AM.
BlackBMWs,
Thanks for the explicit detail in your DIY.
I have an 03 540iA w/68,230 miles. My tech and I did the job yesterday and other than the slight nusance of jiggling/prying the engine mounts out of their akward spots it went relatively smooth. Only had to disconnect the air filter cover to jack up the engine, the fan cleared the shroud with out any problem.
We managed to do the transmission mounts without removing or bending any of the heat shields (we used 1/4" drive tools w/swivels, worked slick).
The old engine mounts were still in very good condition (no sagging or cracks whatsoever), the tranny mounts were OK, one showed signs of separation from the metal cap but only sightly.
The only thing we omitted was the 'lock-tite' on the threads, there wasn't any sign from the old threads so didn't feel it was neccesary, just tightened to torque specs.
Thank-you.
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