View Poll Results: Use anti seize when changing plugs?

Voters
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  • Yes

    40 44.94%
  • No

    49 55.06%
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Thread: Spark Plug Antiseize Poll

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    meridian ID
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    My Cars
    2004 BMW 325i 4 door
    I voted yes, but there are a few hairs to split here, One being if the plug used has a simple metal base and your head is aluminium then yeah.
    Some better plugs use a base like nickel or some other type that doesnt typically create a seizing issue unless your getting it hotter than mormal like with racing but then you should be pulling your plugs regularly so that should pose to much of an issue, in all cases when installing plugs if you choose to use your not to use antiseize and old school rule of them should applied to all plug installs to cut down on all potential types of spark plugs and this is, run the plug down by hand, one you know its bottomed out or flush in the head give it a quarter to half tern with that socket, thats it plugs should not have to be torked IMIO im a Nood in here and just thought i would through my two cents in, oh yeah if you do use antiseize a little goes a long way just lightly coat 2 or 3 threads worth starting a quarter inch back from the end of the plug and that will be enough for it to chase it up the rest of the thread column as your running them down with your fingers

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Edmonton,CANADA
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    792
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    1997 BMW M3 Coupe
    Just changed the plugs on my s54, pretty sure they were originals with 60,000miles. I was scared removing them they were squeeling on the way out and super stiff removing, thought the plug was going to snap.

    I put new ones in with no anti seize


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  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Lake Havasu, AZ
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    4,675
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    2013 Ferrari F138
    I have always done an incredibly small amount precisely on the center of the threads, and have never had 1 come back or loss of service life. I've probably installed 1000 spark plugs.
    However, I'm certain it really does nothing as only water incursion will cause them to corrode to the head, mostly old cars with exposed spark plugs such as an m10.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Oakhurst, CA
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    6,668
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    96 M3 97 M3 98 M3 99 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by lharvey16 View Post
    For the 2001 E46 325i, BMW service manual specifically says use it.
    No it does not. It says ungreased.

    Do not use anti-sieze. Always fully crush the crush washer. I can’t begin to count the number of under torqued plugs I have fixed. Most are caused by paranoid torque wrench wielders (yes a torque wrench is a critical tool but the set torque value is not enough to crush the sealing washer).

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Woodstock, Ga
    Posts
    105
    My Cars
    1999 M3 - 2013 GSXR 600
    I have never used anti seize on any spark plug in any engine. I have gone through a billion spark plugs in both motorcycles and cars and i have never had an issue. Just make sure you torque them down correctly. As Braymond141 said, make sure the crush washer is actually crushed. (its called a crush washer for a reason!) With that being said, do not go overboard crushing the thing. Put just enough torque on it to fully crush the washer and you will be just fine.
    1999 M3/2/5 Arctic Silver
    2013 GSXR-600

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    outta SoCal, now CO
    Posts
    1,212
    My Cars
    '98 M3 Alpine White
    Lots of comments, and the truth, whatever that is, is all in there somewhere.

    New silver colored spark plugs have what's called a trivalent chromium coating. This takes the place of lubricant in that this layer will break away from the spark plug if needed during extraction if there is any resistance between the plug and head. You've seen it. It makes it appear that the spark plug is peeling its chrome layer. Champion spark plugs are famous for this. No anti-seize is needed and most all of the spark plug companies advise NOT to use anti-seize on these type of plugs.

    Adding the anti-seize presents the problem of 'overtorqueing'. Sure, you've used the torque wrench set at 18 lbft but with the added lube and missing that standard thread resistance, you may now have as much as 20, 22, 24 or more lbft of torque. You may not realize how easy it is to damage a spark plug. Drop it or over-torque it and the casing distorts, cracking the internal ceramic and causing misfires. Some manufacturers, I think NGK being one, recommend that if using anti-seize (that they didn't recommend in the first place) then lower the tightening torque by about 15-20% to compensate for the anti-seize. The numbers I've seen from the manufacturers are 18 lbft becomes 14 lbft w/anti-seize.

    On the other hand, I'd rather deal with a lesser tightened spark plug with a small (and I mean small) amount of anti-seize than dealing with a seized plug. More is not better. Doesn't really happen that often with the BMW engines as much as some others. Ford Triton engines are so prone to seizing plugs that they have special removal kits to get the broken parts out. And the factory recommendation is to crack them loose, shoot some lube like PB Blaster down the hole and let it sit for an hour before trying to unscrew the plug.

    It comes down to this: if you haven't had any problems doing what you're doing, then keep doing it.
    Last edited by tjm3; 11-22-2017 at 09:11 PM.
    See ya later,

    tony
    '98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T

  7. #32
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Fort Wayne, IN
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    5,016
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    96 M3, 15 Golf R, 18 Q5
    Quote Originally Posted by tjm3 View Post
    It comes down to this: if you haven't had any problems doing what you're doing, then keep doing it.
    I think I want that embroidered on a cover for my tool chest.

    Neil

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