Spark Plug Antiseize Poll

[chadwick405]

Some say use it, some say don't. I hear yes for ease of removal, and no for electrical conductivity. Let me know what you think.

[Hoad]

Last time I bought plugs they gave me a free little packet of antiseize. No problem with conductivity unless they're dripping with it.

[belligerent]

I have always liked doin the plugs with out any antiseize, where you know there is clean contact, and never had any problems.

Eventhough I would think a tiny smear could be beneficial , just to prevent any damage, assuming you dont tighten the crap outta them


but heres some info pulled from another site....
-
Here's what Autolite says about using anti-seize (snicked off the net somewhere):

We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti seize compounds are typically composed of metallic,
electrically conductive ingredients. If anti seize compounds come in
contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition.
Anti seize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when
installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling
resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated
to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is
aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder
heads for a long period of time.

Here's what AC/Delco says:

Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.

--

heres the Pelican Parts explanation
" Install each plug into the cylinder heads without using any anti-seize compound. Torque the spark plugs to 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lbs). While writing "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines", I discovered that Porsche doesn’t recommend the use of anti-seize compound, as detailed in Porsche Technical Bulletin 9102, Group 2, identifier 2870. The bulletin applies retroactively to all Porsche models and the theory is that the anti-seize tends to act as an electrical insulator between the plug and the cylinder head. This could have detrimental effect on the firing of the spark due to the loss of a good, consistent ground connection. Keeping those findings in mind, I would make the same recommendations for the BMW cars."


looks like clean and dry is the way to go

[The Letter M]

There is no need to use anti-seize on your plugs. If you don't overtighten them, they come out easily.

All the recommendations tell you not to use it, just like they all tell you how tight to tighten the plugs. Follow their lead & you can't go wrong.

Anti-seize is NOT used for proper torquing, not sure where that came from, but it causes you to over torque the plugs, even if you use a proper torque wrench.

Hey, it's your cylinder head.....

[Stück]

I never use AntiSeize, and the spark plug even with heavily coated threads is going to ground through the flange that crushes the washer anyways.

Some will use it, and that's fine. Just make sure you don't over tighten.

[Hoad]

I don't think it is much of any difference to put antiseize on or not; not a big deal. I think the reason people advise against it is so they are not liable when some idiot literally dips their plugs in antiseize or over torques them. If they say don't do it, there's less chance of some idiot screwing it up. But like I said, it doesn't really matter. Who waits long enough between spark plug changes to have the seize in the head anyway? The spark is high voltage, low amps so it dosn't need a huge area for the plug to contact the head. The area where it seats, where the washer contacts the head, is probably plenty of area. I wouldn't put antiseize there, only a small bead size area of antiseize on the threads if you feel like it.

[Mad Dog 20/20]

Antiseize is used more for proper torquing than anything else.

This is patently false. Antisieize makes it impossible to obtain proper torque.

There is no need to use anti-seize on your plugs. If you don't overtighten them, they come out easily.

Yeah, I've never used anti sieze and never had any issue w/ getting the plugs out - ever.

In light of the absence of any need for it, and the way is skews the torqeu - why use it?

[shaeff]

If you use it, use the copper anti-seize. Copper is conductive.

[Hoad]

This is patently false. Antisieize makes it impossible to obtain proper torque.

Assembly lube is the one that gives you the proper torque right, or something?
Aaaah. Did a tiny bit of research. If the manufacturer says to use antiseize, use it. Torque specs decrease when using thread lubricants because of less friction. So if you use antiseize when BMW doesn't say to, you should torque the plugs less. But if the specs are for use with thread lubricant, the torque between bolts will be more consistant becasue the amount of friction will be more equal between the bolts from using the lube. From what I understand, correct me if I'm wrong. Still not necessary on spark plugs though.

[Krank]

Used to, now I don't.

[M Wringer]

Always use it. What drove the point home for me was a gf's VW Bug. Some pinhead mech she used to go to for service did not use it and wiped out the threads in the cylinder head for #3 plug. Of course, that is the hardest one to access. I discovered the spark plug would not seat. I had to pull the engine and pull the head. I found not only the spark plug hole without threads, the head was cracked and the #3 exhaust valve seat was ready to fall out. I have also seen spark plugs from older E30 M20 engines and BMWs with M30 engines come out with aluminum from the head stuck to the threads. Cheap insurance using anti-seize. A small can lasts a loooong time.

[Balthazarr]

I've always used it, but I use a torquer to seat, so I never overtighten from what I had before.
Easy to remove plugs.

[Brent 930]

I voted yes, but it seems there should be another category..."It doesn't matter either way."

[Jwright]

heres the Pelican Parts explanation
" Install each plug into the cylinder heads without using any anti-seize compound. Torque the spark plugs to 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lbs). While writing "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines", I discovered that Porsche doesn’t recommend the use of anti-seize compound, as detailed in Porsche Technical Bulletin 9102, Group 2, identifier 2870. The bulletin applies retroactively to all Porsche models and the theory is that the anti-seize tends to act as an electrical insulator between the plug and the cylinder head. This could have detrimental effect on the firing of the spark due to the loss of a good, consistent ground connection. Keeping those findings in mind, I would make the same recommendations for the BMW cars."


looks like clean and dry is the way to go

I read that as well the first time I replaced my plugs. Decided to skip the antiseize and torqued to spec. Have not had any problems..

[chadwick405]

Well just changed them from IX series to BKRE6's went great with out any problems and I did not use any anti seize.

[slompwr]

Pick up an inch-lbs wrench. Problem solved. I wished the previous owner of my car used one. I have a stripped stud bolt on my valve cover...

PITA requires extra sealant to reduce oil leakage.

[purduinaM3]

Using anything on the threads will give you inaccurate torque measurements. Torque them correctly, and you won't need antiseize. I voted no.

[slompwr]

On one of my studs that bolts into the head and holds the valve cover on via cap nut, it screws in but then spins freely. I guess the PO did some kind of damage to the threads. Is there a way to fix this or am I better off using high temp locktite on the threads?

[slompwr]

On one of my studs that bolts into the head and holds the valve cover on via cap nut, it screws in but then spins freely. I guess the PO did some kind of damage to the threads. Is there a way to fix this or am I better off using high temp locktite on the threads?

anyone?

[hinzm3]

I think the only thing I ever use anti-seize on is my solid brake caliper guide/pins, that's about it.

[l VeNoM l]

I use it in other vehicles, but not in a BMW. I'm pretty sure BMW recommends against using it, so I never have.

[lharvey16]

I use it in other vehicles, but not in a BMW. I'm pretty sure BMW recommends against using it, so I never have.

For the 2001 E46 325i, BMW service manual specifically says use it.

[ZUUD BYE]

Voted no, the change before last in the Z3 M44 I used some and had a harder time removing those plugs less than 6 months later. Had to work them back & forth a few times & turns until I felt comfy enough to wrench them all the way. I think i used it on wifeys ///M3 about a year & a half ago--- kinda dreading removing them. FW its W

[voshagen]

Clerk at a local auto parts store told me to use it. I bought some, got home and found:

A bulletin from NGK
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

and if "assembly paste" is the same as anti-seize, BMW, as of 2007, says no, at least for my car.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...odels/page_51/

[mpower5266]

I have always used copper anti seize but I grew up working on airplanes and Im just used to doing it. :