Im in the process of installing a new (used) ABS pump. When I go to fill and bleed the system for the first time, what is the best way to get as much air out of the system as possible the first time though - traditional two person method, power bleeder, car on, car off? Any other tips? Thanks.
No, bridge this to turn the pump on and bleed the calipers at each corner.
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Install the pump and start bleeding as you normally would RR first. Have the person in the car push the pedal down as you release the bleeder. When it is closed have him bring up the pedal. Do this about 8x on each corner. ON the 8th time have him pump it up and do it that way. Take the car out and brake hard enough to have the pump go on. Do that a few times. Then go back and check each corner again. You will probably go through a large can and a half doing this.
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BMW shops have an electronic tool specifically for bleeding the ABS. I don't know whether using it is needed when doing an ABS unit install, but you might want to check. Apparently if you have air or moisture in the ABS system, a standard bleed isn't always enough. I was having recurrent fade issues despite repeated bleeds and flushes using both a power-bleeder and the old-fashioned guy-in-the-car technique. Problem went away when we used the BMW ABS activator while bleeding..
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Fuse box. Two ABS relays - left is for the module, right is for the pump.
The ABS pump is probably what is called in "Intermittent Duty" motor. Which means that it shouldn't run very long as it will get hot.
I have no idea how long it can run before it burns up, but a good way to check to put your hand on it to see how hot it is. If it is hot to the touch, then you should probably let it rest of a bit. But then bleeding brakes shouldn't take but a few minutes anyway, even with the pedal pump method.
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there seem to be some unanswered questions in this thread. I would like to know the best procedure for bleeding the system after replacing the abs pump.
Jump the relay while doing each corner? the whole time? some other time?
Anyone have any thoughts to add?
'95 318i - DASC Supercharged - 269° Camshafts - 30lb injectors - Ostrich 2.0 tuning - Coil On Plug conversion - 11lb flywheel 228mm clutch - AST 4100's,
I didn't do anything special when I installed my ABS pump.
It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.
Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997
I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!
I pressure bleed. Seems to push the air out of the ABS pump. Pressure bleeder is one of the best $50 I ever spent on my cars.
I'll go out and engage the ABS after the fact, that turns it on. It doesn't seem to need it though. I apply 10 PSI and go from wheel to wheel bleeding each one. I don't even really need to take the wheels off. Fit a wrench and hose on the nipple, loosen and the fluid just flows out. Since the pressure bleeder has a bottle of fluid in it, I don't really need to worry about running the master cylinder empty either.
Every car is different though. This worked for me. Normally, I make every effort not to let the system drain out but, when changing ABS units, you have no choice.
I'm surprised 10psi was good enough. I usually have mine at 15-20psi.
Bleeding before and after driving might get all the air out of the ABS if it was changed, etc.
I'm afraid to go much over 10 because of the flimsy construction of the tank. Even at 10 it starts to bulge. Good to know I can go up to 20 though, thanks.
^Buldge? I will take a closer look next time I bleed my brakes. I think 20psi is the max for the system.
nice, link to 50 dollar pressure bleeder please ?
'95 318i - DASC Supercharged - 269° Camshafts - 30lb injectors - Ostrich 2.0 tuning - Coil On Plug conversion - 11lb flywheel 228mm clutch - AST 4100's,
http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/store/t...re-bleed/#1756
I installed a valve stem on mine so I can use an air chuck to pressurize it.
Works great. Keep pressure under 25 PSI unless you want to risk popping the fluid reservoir off.
Dan Chadwick
Boston Chapter BMW CCA Instructor Development.
Near-Orbital Space Monkeys, E30 M50-ish
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was installing the valve stem hard ?
'95 318i - DASC Supercharged - 269° Camshafts - 30lb injectors - Ostrich 2.0 tuning - Coil On Plug conversion - 11lb flywheel 228mm clutch - AST 4100's,
It's 5-10 pumps to get it up to pressure. So, my point is, why bother.
Valve stem install was pretty easy. I got a stem with a rubber seal that threads in from the back. I think HMS had it. Having a small hand to get inside is nice.
I don't but fluid in the bleeder can because I don't like the idea of the residue. Maybe I'm paranoid. I have to take the bleeder off sometimes for each corner to refill the reservoir. Mine takes more than 5-10 pumps to get to 20 psi. But, hey, to each their own.
Dan Chadwick
Boston Chapter BMW CCA Instructor Development.
Near-Orbital Space Monkeys, E30 M50-ish
Driving Evals on-line evaluations for Driving Schools. Paper forms are just wrong.
I understand what you're saying, no fluid in the tank. God what a hassle though, you might as well be stepping on the pedal to bleed. I just poor the fluid left in the tank into my old oil tank. Maybe if I was using SRF I wouldn't but, for relatively cheap fluid, I make no effort to save it. Once the bottles been open for a month, it's no good anyway so, I just dump it.
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