Rear Suspension/Wheel Bearing Install...

[cnn]

no
2 Trailing Arms and 4 wheels bearings are the only old suspension components which i have.

Thanks,

The Rear Wheel Bearing I can understand, when it comes time to replace, not too bad with proper tools.

The Trailing Arm is too expensive.
My question is: the bushings can be replaced in ? E46 or Z3 models but not sure why it is not available for E39 Trailing Arm.
Power Flex company should make this as an option!

[champaign777]

Hey champaign777,

Did you ever replace the Bushings in the Trailing Arms (circled in blue color)?
Thanks!

no

you will be the first who will replace them

[mmm635]

Hi Michel, what about the bushing of part #8 ( http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...19&hg=33&fg=30 ) ?????

Michel,

Thanks for the wonderful DIY.
I have the same question as jdjg, basically:

Trailing Arm Left Rear (circle in blue in the pic)
PN:33326755471, retailed as $370/each side!

Is the bushing replaceable? Or we have to change the whole Trailing Arm?

Unfortunately, the whole arm has to be replaced. When I was rounding up the parts from the dealership, my parts guy said that the whole arm has to be ordered and does not come from BMW as separate components.

Michel if you need I can give you Subgrame Bushing Franklin took for rent free - you helped a lot from beginning - PM me

Thanks Champ. I may have to take you up on that when I can get some extra funds for the bushings. I have been pouring excessive amounts of money in my LandCruiser lately and it has been killing me. Many of the Toyota parts I have gotten are more expensive than the ones for my E39 go figure.

[champaign777]

4 subframe bushing for sedan are not expensive at all and you will be surprised about the price.
Ask cdb3113 - we both bought from the same place - original Lemfoerder ...

Rear makes all difference

[mmm635]

4 subframe bushing for sedan are not expensive at all and you will be surprised about the price.
Ask cdb3113 - we both bought from the same place - original Lemfoerder ...

Rear makes all difference

I will look into it an see if I can swing it. I would really like to finish off the rear, and that would be icing on the cake.

[cnn]

4 subframe bushing for sedan are not expensive at all and you will be surprised about the price.

Hi champaign777,

Could you give me the PN for these 4 subframe bushings?

[C019740]

At what mileage are you all replacing your bearings?

[champaign777]

I will look into it an see if I can swing it. I would really like to finish off the rear, and that would be icing on the cake.

1. Take subframe bushing from here :
cdb3113
In case you didn't see... I got the subframe bushing set of 4 from BMAparts.com, because the Lemfoerder bushings were like $21. That's for ALL 4.

part # 33311091422

http://bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku=BMW...er&weight=1.20

2. Pay 20$ to post Franklin tool to you and back
3. One condition - make a good write up

[bimmerfiver]

Hi champaign777,

Could you give me the PN for these 4 subframe bushings?

Numero dos?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...18&hg=33&fg=30

[champaign777]

Numero dos?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...18&hg=33&fg=30

On your link it is 02 Rubber Mounting 433311091422

if it's sedan then 33311091422 will work for all E39

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1215641

[cdb3113]

1. Take subframe bushing from here :
cdb3113
In case you didn't see... I got the subframe bushing set of 4 from BMAparts.com, because the Lemfoerder bushings were like $21. That's for ALL 4.

part # 33311091422

http://bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku=BMW...er&weight=1.20

2. Pay 20$ to post Franklin tool to you and back
3. One condition - make a good write up

Oh snap! I said I was going to do a write up on the subframe bushing install and never did it! Better get on it!

Yeah, I got my bushings from BMAparts.com, and my 4 Lemforder bushings cost me $20. I couldn't pass that up. I think they might be more now though... I got mine over a year ago. BMA parts sent them to me and they arrived with my guibo and some other parts in an old frozen food box...




I will make the write up soon, but note that my pictures won't show the classy tool that champagin777 used... they will show off my own engineering skillz and ingenuity (i.e. custom tool!) If you are going to do this job and have a cool dude like champaign777 willing to let you use the tool for only $20, DO IT! I took the cheap and fun route.






BTW, never forget the most important tools for such jobs:

[champaign777]

Sorry cdb3113 - no barbarous engineering
Don't be scare folks with Franklin tool it's 3H job, complexity is 3 from 10

[ghandog]

Yeah, I got my bushings from BMAparts.com, and my 4 Lemforder bushings cost me $20.

Is this cost ($20) per piece? I checked the BMAparts website, and it says $21.00 per piece. Do they come as a set of 4 when you bought them before? Thanks.

[champaign777]

Is this cost ($20) per piece? I checked the BMAparts website, and it says $21.00 per piece. Do they come as a set of 4 when you bought them before? Thanks.

price is for one bushing and you need 4 , run and buy - original lemfoerder, i got 2001/2002 production year, looks like they have some old storehouse

[bimmerfiver]

cdb3113...look at this DIY, scroll down to the rear subframe bushings...can we drill/air chisel or torch ours out and press-in with a floor jack:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=FEQ

[cdb3113]

cdb3113...look at this DIY, scroll down to the rear subframe bushings...can we drill/air chisel or torch ours out and press-in with a floor jack:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=FEQ

Worst idea ever.

[champaign777]

cdb3113...look at this DIY, scroll down to the rear subframe bushings...can we drill/air chisel or torch ours out and press-in with a floor jack:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=FEQ

I almost failed from my chair ... Are you a fireman ???
What you have done with your Subframe Bushing ???
holy crap ... you cool

[jase007]

If you pull the rear subframe bushing carrier on an E30 (not hard to do) that is one of the easier ways (torch) to get the subframe bushings out.

I haven't looked under an E39 sedan but ... if disconnecting the shocks, d-shaft, e-brake cables is about all it takes ... I'd proceed the same way. Also get the added bonus of POR-15 and painting whatever is peeling (if steel).

e30 subframe bush on fire.jpg

[mikejbmw]

Thanks for you post. I took on the rear wheel bearing job this weekend all went well except for getting the spline back in the hub. Any new thoughts on getting her done without destroying the CV joint, bearing (and alignment)? I banged on that for half a day with a 2x4 and 2lb hammer. Don't seem to have room for a 4x4 in there. I'm going for a bigger hammer today, I've got about another 1/4 inch to go. Excellent find at HB on the 12 ton puller. Have you found anything to pull the spine and hub together? How does the dealer do this job?!

In you rear suspension overhaul, what part showed the greatest wear, what was the greatest bang for the buck?

Mike

[mmm635]

Thanks for you post. I took on the rear wheel bearing job this weekend all went well except for getting the spline back in the hub. Any new thoughts on getting her done without destroying the CV joint, bearing (and alignment)? I banged on that for half a day with a 2x4 and 2lb hammer. Don't seem to have room for a 4x4 in there. I'm going for a bigger hammer today, I've got about another 1/4 inch to go. Excellent find at HB on the 12 ton puller. Have you found anything to pull the spine and hub together? How does the dealer do this job?!

In you rear suspension overhaul, what part showed the greatest wear, what was the greatest bang for the buck?

Mike

Mike,

I am not totally clear on what you are asking in your question. The 4x4 is used to butt up against the hub after the bearing has been installed in the assembly. Once the bearing is in place, and the half-shaft spline is sticking through the bearing, the 4x4 is used to smack the hub into the splines on the half-shaft. It is very important that you slowly tap the hub into the corresponding splines on the half-shaft in order to start it off correctly. Also, add oil on the splines in order to help lubricate and provide a degree of anti-corrosion protection.

The rear arms and bearings were in bad shape on my car.

Shoot me a PM and I will see if I can help you out with your situation.

[mikejbmw]

Michel,

Thanks for the quick reply. I have bearing attached to hub with 4 bolts. I have been hitting the hub from the inside of the wheel to force the spline into the hub. With suspension jacked up and half-shaft level, I don't have enough hub sticking out from the outside to smack the hub on the spline. I probably am going to have to gut it out for the 1/4 inch.

Great looking wheels on your ride. Are those 19s? I have m5 18s 8 inch front 9 inch rears. There is alot of noise back ther hopefully cured with new bearings (left rear bearing felt rough on removal). Do you get much tire noise?

[mmm635]

Michel,

Thanks for the quick reply. I have bearing attached to hub with 4 bolts. I have been hitting the hub from the inside of the wheel to force the spline into the hub. With suspension jacked up and half-shaft level, I don't have enough hub sticking out from the outside to smack the hub on the spline. I probably am going to have to gut it out for the 1/4 inch.

Great looking wheels on your ride. Are those 19s? I have m5 18s 8 inch front 9 inch rears. There is alot of noise back ther hopefully cured with new bearings (left rear bearing felt rough on removal). Do you get much tire noise?

Then, from what you describe, you should have enough of the threaded portion of the splined half shaft exposed to thread the axle nut - this will seat the rest of the hub in place. I am picturing your description as the hub face is on the same plane as the face of the splined shaft. So, this is why you cannot use the 4x4 on that side, I assume. If that is the case, then the recess in the hub should be exposing the threads I mentioned earlier. Let me know if I am off base. If you can take a pic of everything as it is, then that would help much.

Also, try putting your axle in the same position as in the following pic:



Thanks. They are 18" Rondell Style 81 - 8.5 up front and 10 in the rear. I have minimal noise in the rear and that is even with my ski pass down and a sub in the space. I also have new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S.

[mikejbmw]

Michel,
I'm off the jack stands and on the road. In the end a very satisfying repair.
2 new rear wheel bearings and the car has never been quieter. Inner bearing on the left side was the culprit. Now I can hear a rattle underneath that goes away when I hit the brakes. Gonna try new rear pads with anti rattle clips. You, this board and the internet have kept me driving a BMW instead of driving some boring ride like a Toyota. Actually those things can kill you!

Regard, Mike

[bimmerfiver]

THIS IS my summer project. The rear end of my car makes me sick. I believe all good men should come to the aide of their e39 and tear into the rearend of the car at 100K miles. My rear arms, link, bearing...they make me sick.

[mmm635]

Michel,
I'm off the jack stands and on the road. In the end a very satisfying repair.
2 new rear wheel bearings and the car has never been quieter. Inner bearing on the left side was the culprit. Now I can hear a rattle underneath that goes away when I hit the brakes. Gonna try new rear pads with anti rattle clips. You, this board and the internet have kept me driving a BMW instead of driving some boring ride like a Toyota. Actually those things can kill you!

Regard, Mike

Right on, man! My driver's side was in much worse shape than the passenger's side. It is amazing how much the car feels "new' when the rear suspension has been done.

THIS IS my summer project. The rear end of my car makes me sick. I believe all good men should come to the aide of their e39 and tear into the rearend of the car at 100K miles. My rear arms, link, bearing...they make me sick.

You know it Keith. We have to take care of our rear ends as we, I mean the car, get older!