DIY....E28 repairs and services..

[curtnutss]

there is no DIY for E28 so I would like to get this ...PARKED... so please stay on topic........ post the repairs with photos and detailed write up. I will soon participate. ... please stay on topic ...


I will start with the 535i M30 oil pan gasket !
this it a good place to start when you buy a high mileage bimmer !

First assess and see what you are up against and if any thing else is broken or just worn out.
in my case my steering box mount on the sub frame was broken so I will try to combine the sub frame with the oil pan gasket DIY. also a good time for motor mounts / and oil pump bolts.




this is the old and new sub frame.

the first step is to hang the engine - I used an engine hanger at my work, but if you don't have one of these an engine hoist will do fine, or you can rig something up, but be careful not to drop your engine! then undo the motor mounts the sub frame needs to come out regardless if you need a sub frame or not.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

when the engine is secure. you can start unbolting the motor mounts/steering/ and steering box/ sway bar/ upper and lower control arms from sub frame.
when this is all out then you can remove the subframe, make sure you hang the steering components with coat hangers, zip ties or string...


when you get the sub frame down and out this what you will see.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

before removing the oil pan drain the oil. after you drain the oil remove the oil level sensor at the bottom of the oil pan., remove the flywheel inspection cover located at the back of the oil pan. with 8 bolts 4 on the trans side and 4 on the bottom of the block. I believe the auto does not have this cover it is incorporated in to the oil pan. The A/C compressor bracket has a smaller bracket bolted to the oil pan, remove it.

now remove the oil pan. clean the engine and pan where the gasket meets "I used a razor blade / and a scotch brite " don't use gritty sand paper on the oil pan it could gouge the surface.

Now is a good time to change the oil sump bolts I would do one at a time and torque them down!

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

this is a good time to inspect the teeth on the flywheel and clean ! careful with the sensors, there is a top and bottom, do not mix them up, or your car will run rough or not at all, but it's a good idea to clean these as well...

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clean the oil pan ! resurface the sealing surfaces pan gasket/and the gasket for the oil level sensor. A bucket of soapy water and some elbow grease will do the trick. but if you have the access to a industrial parts washer it will do the trick very well !!
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

After you inspect your engine internals and replaced the oil pump bolts. You can start getting the gasket ready and in place I used a sealant to ensure a good seal. you just need a little! then spread evenly covering the gasket.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

when returning the oil pan to the block I used a loose zip tie to hold the pan up as I put the 10mm bolts back in. it helps I got that hint off another forum! I skip every other bolt when tightening so I get an even seal. Then return the oil level sensor. I use a little sealant on it as well.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Essentially reverse the process and reassemble. good luck !

[curtnutss]

Do you have windows that go down but not back up? !

Me to ! but not any more.

Its most likely not the regulator (it goes down so it's still working) so I thought it must be the switch.


So I popped them out and popped the switches apart.




I looked in side. All the connections were black and dirty! this was preventing the motor from getting power.


so I scuffed them clean.


same thing on this.
clean!

reassemble the switches and back in the car ! It worked for me ... try it!

[BlackBMWs]

O.K. I'm in! Here's a DIY for a E28 Heater Valve fix I did a few months ago.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So, in swapping cars with my wife day a week or so ago, I noticed there was no heat or defroster.

O yeah, she mentioned that about two months ago. Now out of the comfort of my 540it, I figured it was time to fix her heater.

After taking a false side trip checking the thermostat (I hate Thermostat bolts...). I checked the Heater Valve. It was failing as folks had mentioned.

The net fix was to replace the heater valve on the engine firewall. The Heater Valve repair kit was about $40 or so. All you need is the repair kit, a 7mm 1/4" socket on a driver handle and a flat head screwdriver. It takes about 10 minutes, although I took a little longer to clean the parts up.

Optional: I used a Dremel with a wire brush end to clean up the rust off the washers and metal coil sleeve.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's where the heater valve is located on the firewall.


Here's the heater valve mounted on the firewall. (This was an after shot. The brown stuff on the screws is Anti-seize) I used a 7mm 1/4" socket on a driver handle to remove the heater valve assembly from the firewall for easier access.


After removing the electrical connector and the four flat head screws, pull up on the square valve/coil assembly. Once removed, you can pull the valve away from the coil assembly. Note the position of the metal sleeve over the coil and three washers on the valve itself for correct reassembly. Note that the sleeve has three notches that are positioned towards the top of the valve assembly.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's the failing valve and parts along with a new valve. The two heater valves are in the middle, the new one is on the left.


The valve slides into the center of a coil which is activated by the electrical connector on top of the coil assembly.

Here are the two valves side by side.


Here's the failing valve. Note that the rubber diaphragm on the failing valve is torn through.


Reassembly is valve, thin flat washer, wave washer, thick washer, Place the metal sleeve (with notches up) over the coil, then insert the valve and washer assembly into the coil/sleeve. The top of the valve will protrude through the coil assembly.

Hold the portion of the valve protruding up through the top of the coil assembly and insert the unit into the valve housing on the firewall. replace the four screws (I used anti-seize on the screws). Reattach the valve assembly with two screws to the firewall mount and replace the electrical connector.

If the system is topped and bled properly, you should now have heat again if the valve was the issue.

Enjoy a properly operating heater!

Cheers!

[curtnutss]

So I just rebuilt one of my axles, on my apartment patio.
so for all you guys that say you don't have a place to work, I say "rubbish" lol..!

first off you can do this job with next to nothing!
I drove my car on to a curb so I could climb under it and with a 8mm alan head and a ratchet broke all the alan bolts loose, and I had to push the car back a bit to get to all of them. I had to push it instead of just turning the wheel, I didn't have the car on a jack.
but the axle was loose but still wedged in so I had to use the trunk jack to lift the car up a little "not even off the ground" but the axle came right out !



Before I got started I checked the boot kit to see if it was all there.
the part number is ( 33219067906 ) and the Brand is "LOBRO" OEM !!!
In the kit you get " A boot attached to a flange/ one cover flange/ one retaining circle clip/ one boot clamp/ and a bag of grease. $35 for two kits you need two per one axle.




This is what we start with "this was not the ripped side" but you do one you do both!



Start buy removing the end plate with a flat head screwdriver and tap it with a hammer.


Then remove the circle retaining clip from the end of the axel haft.


With the flat head screwdriver and hammer tap the other plate loose.



I was able the just pull off the CV joint, but you may need to use a press or be creative.

I then dismantled the CV joint and cleaned the parts in my home made cheap parts washer !!!





I found a nick in this not good but I don't have another one so what do ya do...


I rebuilt the joint with WD40 at first and then greased the joint.
I used WD40 at first so I could see what I was doing and fiddling around with grease is annoying ! Note after you grease and are ready to reassemble the CV joint to the shaft make note that you put the groove to the outside or the outer end of the shaft! and don't forget to install your new circle clip.



Now it's time to close it all up by putting on the end flanges, I used the bolts to line up the holes and then taped lightly with a hammer. now just tighten up the boot clamp and the end of the boot, and repeat on the other side.





Clean of all the excess grease off and in stall back into the car .





Done and all with out a garage !

[nelson1166]

nice job!

[Beigermany]

Where Do You Get Your Parts From
And Do You Know Where To Find A Front Spoiler For
And 528e or an i

[BayBimmerBoy]

Good thinking on the window switches. I was worried about that mine not working could have been something worse, but I'm going to give that a try tomorrow!

[master6]

I just up dated this DIY, I added a new shaft seal and a how to replace the seal.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...NpZDRQVHlGal9n

Read the written captions at the right side of each photo.

This repair needs to have the booster removed from the car.

Tools needed: Dremal, vise, bench grinder, battery drill motor with reverse, 1-1/8 inch deep socket, 13mm 1/4 in drive socket with an extension into the drill motor, blade screw driver, 10mm drill bit or 3/8 inch metal drill bit, electric drill motor with 3/8 chuck.

Dremal hobby tool at Home Depot $69.00 this is a must have tool to do this job correctly!
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

LINK to my 16 websites 12-18, https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2341013-Jay-Stratton-JCS-master6-here-are-10-of-my-current-websites

[haroldsack]

What size id is the seal? LAst time I looked it was 9.5mm. My guess is they did it so we couldn't replace it. And to buy them, it was like a 500 pc minimum.

$18.00 is a good price

thanks Ed

[master6]

It is 9.00mm,

EDIT: Shaft seal is now 9.5mm i.d.

[master6]

Harold,

I have located a source for the shaft seal of 9.5mm I.D. , I placed an order and will receive in 8 weeks. This was a very lengthly search and I am very pleased to be able to provide the correct replacement for OEM size.

[master6]

Hi Forum Members,

I have made some recent changes in the DIY repair kit and rebuild service, as of 2-8-13.
Please refer to my DIY link.

For the following cars, with a Hydraulic brake servo booster, and ABS.

e28, 525,528,533,535,m535,m5;
e24, 628,633,635,m635,m6,L6;
e32, 730,735,750;
e23, 728,730,732,733,735,745;

This Do It Yourself (DIY) is to re-build the Brake Servo Booster #34331156925.
On the e23 it is part # 34331152825
The e23,e24,e28,e32 735 all of the 7 piece interior repair kit are identical, for both part numbers.

The e32 750 has a different part # 34331161772, and has an upgraded shaft seal at the firewall end.
This shaft replaces the standard o-ring, and is slightly more expensive.

I now have the interior components for the re-build of the Brake Servo (booster). I installed these new parts into my M6 over the weekend. The road test was a success, all of the parts work as they should!

The up-graded kit includes the 6 internal rubber o-rings, and a 9.5mm I.D. shaft seal. 7 pieces total.

I have also up-graded the Picasa Link, I took more photos and added more captions to show the correct method that I used in the assembly of the booster.

Here this the link to the DIY, with pricing and step by step instruction, of the booster repair.

Please read the captions at the right side of each photo.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...NpZDRQVHlGal9n

Dremal hobby tool at Home Depot $69.00 this is a must have tool to do this job correctly! The Dremal is variable speed.
Home Depot
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051
Or try Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...kit-97626.html single speed

[fvbean]

axle boot kit, did anyone find the fit tight.

[master6]

Hi, fellow Forum members,

I have just updated my DIY brake servo booster repair tutorial.

I had a 6er owner contact me, that did not want to have to grind the sides of his booster.

Rob from Roadfly had this great idea. This new method does not involve the need to do the grinding.

I went to the hardware store and got the the parts needed. And tried it out.

It worked!

I took photos and added captions and have incorporated this new method into my DIY booster repair.

So check it out!

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...NpZDRQVHlGal9n

[explicitrock]

Can someone do a clutch pedal adjustment? I can't even drive mine :/

[BMWForDays]

I was wondering for the window switches, how did you clean them?

[delvin]

This may help you http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=103670

[george ennis]

hydraulic clutch? mine is and was pain to bleed, but used a piece of hose and opened bleeder on cylinder and ran up into brake master cylinder and pumped clutch till you could hear piston working, tightened bleeder and refilled master and working fine

- - - Updated - - -

1987 bmw 528e
got this part and have no idea what it is. it mounts to steering column under dash to the right of steering column. need a new one but dont know what it is called to try to get another. dont know how to insert picture of it. it has a 5 pin connector and looks like a little motor on it with 2 green wires and 1 red wire to motor. it also has a white push button on it.

[Pyrenees BMW]

Here is a little tutorial with English subtitles for you guys
Concerning clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder on a E28 520i from 1982 !
Nothing difficult, but it helps to have a working clutch pedal Our was stuck to the floor aha