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Thread: The 'end all' e34 front strut mount reference thread.

  1. #76
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    E34 540i 6sp 1995-03-28
    I put Lemforder Front Strut Mounts on a year and a 1/2 ago.. the left one busted through recently.


    the BMW Indy shop woner who did the replacement said use BMW parts.. they will last a long time and that is what he ordered.. from BMW.. think about it..

    The original mounts on my car were still good after 16 years when I removed them ... the lemforders failed in less than two years..

  2. #77
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    Sorry to revive an old thread, but it is a very good thread. I have the type 2 setup, and want to keep my shocks, but want to run the type 3s.

    I have a 9/91 build 535i and have gone through several sets of strut mounts Sachs lasted less than a 1yr. Then the Lemfroder's lasted 2 yrs. I have Bilstein sports with H&Rs and it rides pretty rough, especially in NYC/Queens sucky roads. When I mean I go through sets, the Sach and Lemfroders literally split/break seperate, the aluminum three bolt rings break off the rest of the mounts and when I jack the car up is basically falls out (very dangerous). I am really tired of this so.....since my type 2 setup is very similar to the ttype 3s, can't you just buy the type mounts, plates etc and simply drill out the 2mm difference in the center of the mounts, plate and washer. It's just 2mm, not much. I have been reading that the type 3s, also run in the e30's are not as prone to failure like the type 2s and a lot cheaper. Any input?

    Am I wrong that the only difference from type 2 to type 3 is the inside ID on the type 2 is 16mm, and the type 3 is 14mm. Since I will keep my shocks, all I need it make the type 3 setup fit over the 16mm shaft-rod.
    1987 325is -hoarding on to!
    1985 535is-sold
    1999 328ic mtech-sold
    1992 535iM
    2003 525i Sport

  3. #78
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    Yes I believe you can modify a setup such that the diameters are correct. Just make sure the strength is not compromised.

    I had the shafts of my "wrong sized" struts machined down to fit into my early type 1's. No issues.

  4. #79
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    Despite the fact that this is a very old thread I think this is the right place to ask this question.

    I have a 95 525i which according to this thread is type 3. I have two koni strut inserts PN 8641 1224 which, according to this thread, are compatible with type 2. I am planning on installing these strut inserts and replacing all of the associated parts. In order to install them I essentially need to convert the car to type 2 correct? And to do this the only part I need to get is the type 2 strut mount? Is there anything else I'm going to need?

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by cohny View Post
    Despite the fact that this is a very old thread I think this is the right place to ask this question.

    I have a 95 525i which according to this thread is type 3. I have two koni strut inserts PN 8641 1224 which, according to this thread, are compatible with type 2. I am planning on installing these strut inserts and replacing all of the associated parts. In order to install them I essentially need to convert the car to type 2 correct? And to do this the only part I need to get is the type 2 strut mount? Is there anything else I'm going to need?
    all correct. generally good practice to get new bump stops and spring pads (M5 ones are thinner if you want a slightly lower height)

  6. #81
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    Thanks for the quick reply.

    Just to confirm, the strut housing inner diameter is the same on cars with type II and type III? There seems to be conflicting information in this thread regarding the existence of differing strut housings on E34s.



    Also for those looking to switch from a type III to a type II:

    Looking at this diagram detailing a type II: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0128

    and this diagram detiailing a type III: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0236

    It appears that the only other necessary parts are items number 3, 5, and 7. The 3 mounting bolts and nuts are shared between both setups, as are the bump stops and their covers.

    The upper spring pads are also different, but they should be replaced when installing new struts.

  7. #82
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    Hello Help Please! I have a racing dynamics/bilstein part # 1963034015 front struts and I am having a problem figuring what version strut mount I need. It has the 19mm M12 nut, so I bought the version 1 strut mount and it does not fit. Anyone know what version I should use?

    Thank you
    Ezra

    DSCN2426.JPGDSCN2427.JPGDSCN2429.JPG
    Last edited by dragracer440wed; 06-06-2016 at 01:48 PM. Reason: add pictures



    walk quietly....speak softly....and carry a big stick
    '92 525i 5sp , '95 525iT 5sp, '98 528i, '67 Dodge Dart GT , '85 Mustang 5.0 GT, '88 Mustang
    '93 Dodge Cummins P/U, '71 Ply Duster, '69 Mustang

  8. #83
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    Just adding my 2 cents for anyone buying ZF-Sachs struts for a pre 7/90 car, M5 in my case.

    Their catalogue doesn't make it very clear but the 312-385 (V1) strut actually pairs with the 802-009 (V3) mount.
    Both V1 and V3 mounts have a 14mm diameter but they get around the problem of the V1 taper at the top by including this ring.
    Obviously you would remove this if you were using a V1 mount.

    sachs.jpg

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaele30 View Post
    Sorry to revive an old thread, but it is a very good thread. I have the type 2 setup, and want to keep my shocks, but want to run the type 3s.

    I have a 9/91 build 535i and have gone through several sets of strut mounts Sachs lasted less than a 1yr. Then the Lemfroder's lasted 2 yrs. I have Bilstein sports with H&Rs and it rides pretty rough, especially in NYC/Queens sucky roads. When I mean I go through sets, the Sach and Lemfroders literally split/break seperate, the aluminum three bolt rings break off the rest of the mounts and when I jack the car up is basically falls out (very dangerous). I am really tired of this so.....since my type 2 setup is very similar to the ttype 3s, can't you just buy the type mounts, plates etc and simply drill out the 2mm difference in the center of the mounts, plate and washer. It's just 2mm, not much. I have been reading that the type 3s, also run in the e30's are not as prone to failure like the type 2s and a lot cheaper. Any input?

    Am I wrong that the only difference from type 2 to type 3 is the inside ID on the type 2 is 16mm, and the type 3 is 14mm. Since I will keep my shocks, all I need it make the type 3 setup fit over the 16mm shaft-rod.
    I have a 1991 E34 M5 early production "Type 1" mount car that I am prepping to refresh the suspension. I have the 50413 HR Springs and am researching the Koni Shocks and proper shock mounts.

    Couple of questions:

    1. @Michael30 What has been your experience with the Type 3 mounts? Were they worth the conversion? Have they lasted longer different handling, etc???
    2. @ Zubbie How has your experience been with Type 1 mounts?
    3. Any thoughts on best brands to use regarding longevity for shock mounts?
    4. Any thoughts on best suppliers to purchase from regarding prices?
    5. Any last thoughts on the setup that I am putting together based on your experiences and any changes that you might make?

    The only things that I have purchased so far are the 50413 springs, but they are easily returnable.

    Thanks in advance..... Your Bimmmmmbo

  10. #85
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    I have personally purchased koni's from both shox.com (for an old saab) and most recently bavAuto (for the e34). both seem to have competitive pricing and info regarding the switch in mounts over the range.

    I literally ordered shocks and mounts by the production dates referenced on the website and received properly compatible parts.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tre0Tre34 View Post
    I have personally purchased koni's from both shox.com (for an old saab) and most recently bavAuto (for the e34). both seem to have competitive pricing and info regarding the switch in mounts over the range.

    I literally ordered shocks and mounts by the production dates referenced on the website and received properly compatible parts.
    Thanks Tre. Sounds like the research is spot on. Such a great reference. Really want to know if there is any advantage to buying v3 or v2 over my v1 style.

    What setup did you end up going with and how do you like it? Anything you would change?

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimbo77 View Post
    2. @ Zubbie How has your experience been with Type 1 mounts?
    no issues with my type 1. I'm not sure why bmw changed mounts over the years. Shaft diameters on later mounts are larger. It would make sense I guess that they might be more durable. The issue with early mounts is they are not common so struts are more expensive.

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimbo77 View Post
    Thanks Tre. Sounds like the research is spot on. Such a great reference. Really want to know if there is any advantage to buying v3 or v2 over my v1 style.

    What setup did you end up going with and how do you like it? Anything you would change?
    I am currently rocking Eibach springs, adjustable Koni yellows on all four, all OEM bushings/mounts (Lemf.) in the rear and meyle HD everything up front. Both front and rear koni's are set at the midpoint and I am VERY happy with the handling and even the ride.. with my 15" winter tire setup.

    With my 17" summer setup it is realisticly on the edge of accepable comfort over the shitty Denver roads I have been dealing with that last few years... I am also advancing in age so the comfort may not be as big an issue for you.

    I do plan to soften up the FRONT koni's a notch or two when I put my summers back on this or next weekend because the rear does seem a bit more cushy.

    All this being said, I do like the eibach/koni setup much more than factory, but if a "comfy" ride is important to you I would pay close attention to the size of tire you plan to run.

  14. #89
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    Hey bimbo,

    Being that your ordering the koni's, be sure to order the set that matches the v3 strut mounts.(14mm shaft) If I had to do it all over I would run the v3 from the start. I converted my setup to accept the v3 (from v2) and have been very happy. The v3 is simply a better design. The v3 are also more common. I would recommend the Lemforder brand as they seemed to last the longest. As for ride comparison between v2 & v3 I can't say you can feel a difference, I switched because the car was destroying the v2s regularly and so far the v3 is still in perfect shape. Hope this helps you.
    1987 325is -hoarding on to!
    1985 535is-sold
    1999 328ic mtech-sold
    1992 535iM
    2003 525i Sport

  15. #90
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    E34 strut mount expert question: a friend came to my place for some work, including strut mount change. He bought Meyle 300 313 3110/HD - BMW ref. no. 31331134096. This has a 14mm hole, too small. Actual shaft dia. of installed strut is 16mm, strut nut 22mm.
    VIN GE80224
    VIN WBAHE22020GE80224
    Type code HE22
    Type 530I (EUR)
    E series E34 ()
    Series 5
    Type LIM
    Steering RL
    Doors 4
    Engine M60/1
    Displacement 3.00
    Power 160
    Drive HECK
    Transmission AUT
    Colour ARKTISSILBER METALLIC (309)
    Upholstery STOFF CORD/ANTHRAZIT (A1AT)
    Prod.date 1994-09-21
    High-End sound system
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    Vehicle options
    L807 NATIONAL VERSION JAPAN
    S818 Battery master switch
    S900 Electronic immobilizer
    S925 Dummy-SALAPA

    So no sport suspension. What is the correct p/n then?
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...BMW-530i&mg=31
    there are listed with this VIN
    For vehicles with
    M Sports suspension S704A=Yes 01 Guide support 31331139437
    01 Guide support 31331139437
    ONLY APPLIES TO ROUGH SUSPENSION 01 Guide support 31331134096

    diameters are not mentioned, as we have the Meyle 300 313 3110/HD - BMW ref. no. 31331134096 with 14mm hole, there is only left Guide support 31331139437. Can someone confirm that has 16mm hole dia.?

    EDIT: found some offers in the net, 16mm confirmed for:
    OE 31331139437: Federbeinstützlager Vorderachse/shock mount, links, rechts, Innendurchmesser [mm]:16
    Hersteller: MEYLE OE 31331139437: Federbeinstützlager Vorderachse/shock mount Art. Nr: 300 313 3107/HD , Innendurchmesser [mm]:16 verstärkte Ausführung
    Last edited by shogun; 03-18-2017 at 04:23 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  16. #91
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    Recently my front shocks gave up and now I'm replacing them with Bilstein B4s(tourings). I have 1988 e34 and I can only get shocks for v2 and v3 mounts but thats really not a problem since my mounts are garbage anyway. I already bought Bilsteins for V2 upper mounts for 60euros each but I still need to get the mounts. Used ones cost like 20e both and new ones cost 40e each. Now I found in this thread that V2 aren't that durable and that V3 mounts are better, also they cost cheaper. I also found out that Bilsteins for V3 mounts cost like 45e each and I could go and exchange them...

    Should I go and get my V2 Bilsteins exchanged for V3s and get new V3 mounts?Or should I just get the used V2 mounts and install them...?
    Is the valving the same for V1, V2 and V3 shocks?

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mixzzz View Post
    Recently my front shocks gave up and now I'm replacing them with Bilstein B4s(tourings). I have 1988 e34 and I can only get shocks for v2 and v3 mounts but thats really not a problem since my mounts are garbage anyway. I already bought Bilsteins for V2 upper mounts for 60euros each but I still need to get the mounts. Used ones cost like 20e both and new ones cost 40e each. Now I found in this thread that V2 aren't that durable and that V3 mounts are better, also they cost cheaper. I also found out that Bilsteins for V3 mounts cost like 45e each and I could go and exchange them...

    Should I go and get my V2 Bilsteins exchanged for V3s and get new V3 mounts?Or should I just get the used V2 mounts and install them...?
    Is the valving the same for V1, V2 and V3 shocks?
    I'm pretty sure valving would be the same so either choice will work. I wouldn't get too worried about durability between versions unless you drive on rough roads often. All versions of mounts will last a long time if you buy quality parts.

    V2 or v3. Either one is fine.

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by zubbie View Post
    I'm pretty sure valving would be the same so either choice will work. I wouldn't get too worried about durability between versions unless you drive on rough roads often. All versions of mounts will last a long time if you buy quality parts.

    V2 or v3. Either one is fine.
    The roads where I live are pretty bad so its better when its more durable Exchanged the shocks from V2 to V3 and I have to say that V3s(just like V1s) are skinnier, you can even see that on the bilstein website (V3 & V2). They use a plastic ring at the top to properly fit the strut tube. Are you sure theyre the same in terms of valving etc.? Because I can't imagine a reason why V2 shocks would be fatter if theyre the same

    Do I have add some oil to the tube? It's required for oil shocks, but theres no info about gas shocks - some say theyre more quiet that way.

    Also, Im a bit frustrated - the V3s have cone shaped upper part where the upper spring plate would sit but Bilstein added a cone washer that makes it flat again... Do I have to use it or not?
    Last edited by Mixzzz; 04-10-2017 at 06:13 PM.

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mixzzz View Post
    The roads where I live are pretty bad so its better when its more durable Exchanged the shocks from V2 to V3 and I have to say that V3s(just like V1s) are skinnier, you can even see that on the bilstein website (V3 & V2). They use a plastic ring at the top to properly fit the strut tube. Are you sure theyre the same in terms of valving etc.? Because I can't imagine a reason why V2 shocks would be fatter if theyre the same

    Do I have add some oil to the tube? It's required for oil shocks, but theres no info about gas shocks - some say theyre more quiet that way.

    Also, Im a bit frustrated - the V3s have cone shaped upper part where the upper spring plate would sit but Bilstein added a cone washer that makes it flat again... Do I have to use it or not?
    Valving is designed into the shock based on the weight of the car, spring height and function (sport vs luxury). Thus different part numbers for a 525, M5 etc for the same year. I wouldn't worry about strut size as long as the strut is for your vehicle.

    The oil question has come up a few times on this forum. Most agree it helps dissipate heat and is required for all struts (2 oz / 50 cc per tube) unless there is a screw seal at the bottom of the strut insert.

    As for the cone washer I am not sure. Perhaps if you post a pic someone will be able to answer correctly.

  20. #95
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    Man, I wish I found this post a long time ago.
    USC Ralph - Long Beach, CA USA
    1989 E34 White 525i (M20) 310,000m (Sold)
    1993 E34 Black 525i (M50) 308,955m
    1995 E34 Calypso Red 540i/6 (M60) 201,254m
    1993 E34 Black 525iT (M50) 138,500m

  21. #96
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    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by uscharalph View Post
    Man, I wish I found this post a long time ago.
    Maybe if you'd read the FAQ stickied at the top of this forum? (Admittedly it's rather long-winded and not that well-organized)

  22. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by zubbie View Post
    The oil question has come up a few times on this forum. Most agree it helps dissipate heat and is required for all struts (2 oz / 50 cc per tube) unless there is a screw seal at the bottom of the strut insert.
    I know I am digging up an old thread here, but this little note has me puzzled. What do you mean "if there is a screw seal"? This info appears to come from one of the last posts in this thread:

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...hat-s-the-deal

    How do we identify this screw seal? Is there an oil that wont attack the seal? How do we even know those strut tubes cant handle the oil?

    Maybe @TheStigg can elaborate?

  23. #98
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    Do you what this sacksds?SAC-31239
    TNx
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-sachs-312-392

    88-90

    <picture>

    Dustcap -
    Strut Nut
    PN -

    Source For Quality replacement unit

    Common matching inserts:

    Bilstein -

    Koni

    Sachs



    90-92

    <picture>

    Dustcap- 2.5"
    Strut Nut - 22mm
    PN - 31331139437
    Source For Quality replacement unit ealership- $125 each.

    Common matching inserts:

    Bilstein -
    HD: P36-3022
    SPORT: P36-3019

    Koni- ???

    Sachs - ????



    93-95

    <picture>

    Dustcap
    Strut Nut:
    PN -

    Source For Quality replacement unit


    Common matching inserts:

    Bilstein -

    Koni

    Sachs

    [/QUOTE]

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryMan View Post
    Do you what this sacksds?SAC-31239
    TNx
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-sachs-312-392
    As listed on the FCP Euro site, Sachs 312392 = BMW 31321138833. This is a "sport" strut insert. You can check RealOEM for exact fitment, but I believe it corresponds to "version 2" as listed on the first page of this thread.

  25. #100
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    Just to add some info to this thread for people with Bilstein Sports suspension - the inserts with 40mm diameter tubes.

    My specific car is an Alpina with Bilstein specific shock absorbers but they are the same physical shock absorbers as the Bilstein Sports suspension with 40mm tubes, but obviously Alpina valving inside the shock.

    My problem was the nut and the seal that holds the shock absorber into the standard E34 strut - mine got damaged. Alpina say it is a specific Alpina part but it is also a Bilstein specific part as the made it for the Sports suspension option they used to sell. Between Alpina UK, BMW UK and Alpina Buchloe I could get a delivery date and Bilstein themselves seem to have forgotten what the bits were.

    Anyway, after much hunting and scratching of my grey matter I eventually found the nut, the seal that goes in the nut and the specific spanner for the nut that makes life SO much easier than using a C-spanner,

    Here you go...

    59EBEEA1-73E0-4D36-A708-B9D036BC0F97.thumb.jpeg.a2c3fffdbb995c475526fa789a404685.jpeg

    In case the picture goes walkabouts;

    Nut; E4-B36-959B
    Seal; E4-B36-800A
    Spanner; MS0-8/6

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