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Thread: Help! Stuck trunk, not the lock either

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Nicollet, MN
    Posts
    656
    My Cars
    1996 BMW 328is
    I'm new here, and just got my 328iS a few weeks ago. I had this problem as well. It looks like a very common problem. I'm able to get the trunk open now after looking at how it works (I'm lucky and have fold down seats). Seems the lock actuator doesn't like to engage when turned to the unlock position. It just hits the finger instead of sliding under it as suppose to.

    Anyone who has a good fix for this, it'd be nice to see.
    2006 Dodge Charger Daytona (Top Banana #3874 of 4000)
    1996 BMW 328is
    1970 Dodge Dart Custom (225 Slant Six, unrestored)

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Mclean VA
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    96 328ic

    Bottom Line

    Quote Originally Posted by OneTimeCRX View Post
    Just in case this helps anyone with the same problem, here is the location where you should drill the hole behind the license plate:

    30mm (1.2") right of center;
    40mm (1.6") down from the license plate lights.

    Drill a 1" hole centered at the above coordinates, then use needle nose pliers to pull the exposed rod up to unlatch the trunk. Once you have the trunk open, loosen up the carpet panel that covers the latch mechanism and re-attach the rod to the button mechanism. Then use a small zip tie to secure the rod from falling off again.

    Finally, use touch-up paint to cover any bare metal in the hole you cut, and use a 1" rubber cap to close off the hole.

    The plastic bushing that was supposed to hold the rod in place was so loose in my car that it was a miracle it stayed on at all. I recommend everyone install a zip tie to prevent this problem from happening. It's cheap insurance from having to drill a hole in your sheet metal.
    OneTimeCRX had it right (1996 328i Convertible): drill there and the rod is right in front of you. Pull it up (down?) and you're in. A 1/2" hole allowed my electrician's pliers in. Great!
    HOWEVER! There was no broken plastic pin -- clearly, the mechanism was completely intact, even though it was exactly as described (push the button in and there's no resistance, turn left and hear unlock mechanism clicking.) But when I closed the trunk again, it wouldn't open. Here's what fixed it: I pushed down on the right side of the top-storage lid, immediately behind and to the right of the convertible top (I expect the same might happen with the left) and I heard a click at the lock and I was in again (i.e., I never needed to drill a hole, just push down on the lid.)
    BMW's logic goes like this: we know that you have close the trunk to put the top up or down. But evidently you also have to have the top fully up or down to open the trunk. Now, if I could just get the top working...

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Edwardsville IL
    Posts
    12
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 323 CI
    reviving an old thread to see if I can get some help. I am having the same problem on a 98 323 ci, so I drilled the hole in the location described. I don't see a rod, but I see where the rod would go, so I suspect the rod broke or came out of the mechanism. without the rod to pull on, is there any other way to open the trunk?

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    130
    My Cars
    98 318ti&m3, 00 Dinan 7
    Quote Originally Posted by voodoochild View Post
    This ended well. I called an independent BMW Mechanic. He fixed it in about 5 minutes and charged me $10.

    He drilled a small hole through the sheet metal hidden behind the license plate. From there, he could feed a skinny screwdriver in to catch a latch and pop the trunk. The whole problem was caused by a small plastic bit working free of a linkage. Reattach the plastic bit and the linkage... problem solved. He explained how it worked, but I never thought to ask how in the hell he had figured that trick out.

    Just goes to show, I am pretty handy with a wrench, and I can read a Bentley guide... but I am not a mechanic.

    Does anyone know where I drill to do this? Pop the latch with a screwdriver? I drilled a hole and was able to grab the rod connected to the latch, but the rod seems to have come off the latch now as I'm now able to see the bottom of the rod after pulling up on it....so that's out of the picture.

    **edit**

    aaaaand nevermind! I was able to extend my existing hole a little further downward and flip the latch itself with a screwdriver. People should go straight for the latch instead of the rod.
    Last edited by deathsled; 03-08-2016 at 05:20 PM.
    00 Dinan S3 Supercharged 740il - the cup holders totally work
    98 318ti M-Sport 5spd
    98 M3 Sedan 5spd

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Wilmington, DE
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2007 328i 6 speed MT
    Quote Originally Posted by OneTimeCRX View Post
    Just in case this helps anyone with the same problem, here is the location where you should drill the hole behind the license plate:

    30mm (1.2") right of center;
    40mm (1.6") down from the license plate lights.

    Drill a 1" hole centered at the above coordinates, then use needle nose pliers to pull the exposed rod up to unlatch the trunk. Once you have the trunk open, loosen up the carpet panel that covers the latch mechanism and re-attach the rod to the button mechanism. Then use a small zip tie to secure the rod from falling off again.

    Finally, use touch-up paint to cover any bare metal in the hole you cut, and use a 1" rubber cap to close off the hole.

    The plastic bushing that was supposed to hold the rod in place was so loose in my car that it was a miracle it stayed on at all. I recommend everyone install a zip tie to prevent this problem from happening. It's cheap insurance from having to drill a hole in your sheet metal.
    Sorry, I know this was a while ago, but I just bought my first BMW and on my 07 328i I drilled the hole and don't see any rods. Just 2 cables. Looks to be electrical for the actuator maybe. I really don't want to take it in to the dealer so I'm hoping someone knows how to get to this rod. Thank you!

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,731
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    This is the E36 forum, better ask for your 2007 328i in the 2006 - 2012 (E90, E91, E92, E93) forum https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/f...0-E91-E92-E93)
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Arlington, VA
    Posts
    9
    My Cars
    2011 BMW 335d, 94 325ci
    Quote Originally Posted by OneTimeCRX View Post
    Just in case this helps anyone with the same problem, here is the location where you should drill the hole behind the license plate:

    30mm (1.2") right of center;
    40mm (1.6") down from the license plate lights.

    Drill a 1" hole centered at the above coordinates, then use needle nose pliers to pull the exposed rod up to unlatch the trunk. Once you have the trunk open, loosen up the carpet panel that covers the latch mechanism and re-attach the rod to the button mechanism. Then use a small zip tie to secure the rod from falling off again.

    Finally, use touch-up paint to cover any bare metal in the hole you cut, and use a 1" rubber cap to close off the hole.

    The plastic bushing that was supposed to hold the rod in place was so loose in my car that it was a miracle it stayed on at all. I recommend everyone install a zip tie to prevent this problem from happening. It's cheap insurance from having to drill a hole in your sheet metal.
    I failed to resecure the rod all the way after replacing the micro switch. This worked for me. Thanks

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