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Thread: Help! Stuck trunk, not the lock either

  1. #1
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    Mar 2009
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    e39/s52b32/M-tech mutt

    Help! Stuck trunk, not the lock either

    OK, my trunk locks and unlocks... I can actually hear the lock mechanism work turning the key.

    But when you push the button (also the lock cylinder), nothing. The first time it stopped working, there was an audible pop when I pushed the button. I am guessing some kind of linkage between the lock and the latch broke. Could be wrong though. Now there is zero resistance when I push it (when working there was some resistance right before it clicked open).

    Any ideas how to get in to it to repair it? Or at least to get it open to empty my trunk, get my tools (Murphy's law, this happened in the middle of a move and I have a ton of crap back there) and fix my burned out brake light bulb? I do not have the fold down seats, I still have the metal in place for the ski bag hole, I could knock it out, but doubt I could reach the latch through that small hole, and as I said, there is a ton of crap in the back between that hole and the latch.

    And an even more basic question, assuming I can't get this open myself, who would I even take it to? A locksmith? or a Mechanic?

    At this point I am somewhat stumped I gotta say.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    1998 e36 328is
    Wow, that is one hell of a predicament you've gotten yourself into. I am pretty stumped too. If there really is no way to fold down your back seats, then this is going to be tough. The only thing that I can possibly think of doing would be to remove the license plate lights on the trunk lid and see if that exposes anything. I have no idea if it will though. Best of luck. Curious as to what others have to say.....

  3. #3
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    bump

  4. #4
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    1996 328is
    try lubing up the lock with graphite

    if that doesn't work just force it open with the button pushed in... what's the worst that could happen?
    Last edited by eLegg; 03-20-2009 at 11:31 AM.


  5. #5
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    this happened in my 323i. the button would push in but would not unlock, and you can hear the lock open and close when u lock and unlock the car. My seat folded down. I had to break something (not sure what but not my trunk wont lock) but it was the only way. You cant force it open cause the latch is stuck down still.

  6. #6
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    just wiggle the ish out of it, maybe it will free up.


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    97 328i
    I just went thru this my self, I sprayed the hell out of it with silicone spray inside and out then worked it in & out a bunch of times and wiggle the lock a bunch of nasty crap started coming out from around the lock just keep cleaning that junk off and after about 10 min it started working again.

    Good Luck

    -Paul

  8. #8
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    the problem is exactly as cablekid describes. I have tried jiggling etc. but not trying to lubricate... the thing is, it doesn't feel like something is stuck. It's not like I unlock, push the button and it jams. The button pushes in an out no problem with too LITTLE resistance. Before there was a moment right before the trunk popped that you could feel something in the mechanism catch and engage. That isn't there any more. Button pushes all the way in with no resistance. So my guess is that some kind of linkage between the button and the latch is broken and I will somehow need to unlatch the truck (which is easily unlocked) some other way. Via the ski bag hole behind the rear armrest? The license plate lights?

    If anyone has a spare a minute, could you pop your trunk and look at the mechanism? If I were fumbling around through a small hole trying to find a means to open from within, what would I even be looking for?

    I am at a point of sucking it up, taking it to a dealer and getting raped on the labor for the repair.

    And just to give a dose of perspective... this is officially the worst problem I have had with this car... so taking that in consideration, she is still the best vehicle I have ever owned. It's easy to forget about the stuck trunk every time I get behind the wheel

    OK, I've knocked out the whole, and shuffled the contents of the trunk around to be able to see part of the latch on the bottom... not even close to reaching it though.

    If anyone gets a chance to look, what I am hoping for is something I can maybe hook a coat hanger on to and pop it open... but at this point my optimism is fading fast.
    Last edited by voodoochild; 03-20-2009 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  9. #9
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    I'm gonna go look

  10. #10
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    I don't see a way that you could open the latch from inside.

  11. #11
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    This ended well. I called an independent BMW Mechanic. He fixed it in about 5 minutes and charged me $10.

    He drilled a small hole through the sheet metal hidden behind the license plate. From there, he could feed a skinny screwdriver in to catch a latch and pop the trunk. The whole problem was caused by a small plastic bit working free of a linkage. Reattach the plastic bit and the linkage... problem solved. He explained how it worked, but I never thought to ask how in the hell he had figured that trick out.

    Just goes to show, I am pretty handy with a wrench, and I can read a Bentley guide... but I am not a mechanic.

  12. #12
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    Faux M3, B5Stg3 1.8t
    The latch itself tends to move and get misaligned from time to time.

  13. #13
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    MPLS MINN 55391
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    1998 M3 CABRIO
    I have the same problem- Could you give me some idea of where to drill the hole behind the license plate? Thanks

  14. #14
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    Just in case this helps anyone with the same problem, here is the location where you should drill the hole behind the license plate:

    30mm (1.2") right of center;
    40mm (1.6") down from the license plate lights.

    Drill a 1" hole centered at the above coordinates, then use needle nose pliers to pull the exposed rod up to unlatch the trunk. Once you have the trunk open, loosen up the carpet panel that covers the latch mechanism and re-attach the rod to the button mechanism. Then use a small zip tie to secure the rod from falling off again.

    Finally, use touch-up paint to cover any bare metal in the hole you cut, and use a 1" rubber cap to close off the hole.

    The plastic bushing that was supposed to hold the rod in place was so loose in my car that it was a miracle it stayed on at all. I recommend everyone install a zip tie to prevent this problem from happening. It's cheap insurance from having to drill a hole in your sheet metal.

  15. #15
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    I was going to suggest inserting the key then turn it left as far as you can go. Then with the key in it push the lock. My lock kind of broke last week and thats how I have to open it now.

  16. #16
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    I had a similar problem when I bought my 318. I couldn't get into the trunk to charge the battery and of couse with a dead battery the power door locks dont work. I pried open the plate behind the back seat and found a humungous sub woofer in the way. I fudged with it for two days and thought about drilling that hole that you did. I didn't want to leave a hole that someone else could use to get in my trunk so instead of fudging with it for another two days I drilled out the lock. It cost me $75 to get a new lock from the dealer that was matched to my key. I dont regret doing it that way. Its a rather common problem on e36's thats how he knew what to do.

  17. #17
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    Mine did this too about two weeks ago. I just pushed the trunk down real hard then pushed the button. Works fine now.

  18. #18
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    The problem with my car was that the rod was physically disconnected from the button linkage. No amount of pushing on the trunk or wiggling the key in the lock would reconnect the rod. In this case, the only solution was to drill a hole somewhere.

    The symptoms in my car included:
    - Keyless entry would make the trunk's lock actuator audibly move.
    - The trunk's button, while locked, would have a very smooth action with little resistance (which is normal).
    - The trunk's button, while unlocked, would have slightly more resistance and it was possible to hear an additional tension spring being stretched. However the button would not have the normal step in increased resistance that would indicate movement of the link leading to the latch.
    - No amount of wiggling of the key or changing key positions had any effect. Spraying lube into the keyhole didn't change anything either.

    It wasn't until I drilled the hole and forced the trunk open that I could see that the latch's rod fell off the linkage. It's a horribly stupid design from BMW.

  19. #19
    Join Date
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    1989 325is
    another thing for people to try if they are looking at this thread for assistance is to grab a pair of pliars and pull lock cylinder as far out as possible and then roll down drivers window close door, pull lock up then down, this should unlock the trunk!

    MY KEY DOESNT WORK IN MY TRUNK LOCK
    SPEED NEVER KILLED ANYONE! ITS THE ABRUPT STOP THAT GETS U!

    93 325i sedan

    I dont necessarily look for the hardest way to do things im just poor and thats the cheapest way to my goals

    There are people out there that take those classes and graduate college to come up with a design that completely fool proof but they never took in count the inginuity of complete fools!

    LIFE WITHOUT LIMITS

    i have bad TASTE, weaves SUCK

  20. #20
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by voodoochild View Post
    This ended well. I called an independent BMW Mechanic. He fixed it in about 5 minutes and charged me $10.

    He drilled a small hole through the sheet metal hidden behind the license plate. From there, he could feed a skinny screwdriver in to catch a latch and pop the trunk. The whole problem was caused by a small plastic bit working free of a linkage. Reattach the plastic bit and the linkage... problem solved. He explained how it worked, but I never thought to ask how in the hell he had figured that trick out.

    Just goes to show, I am pretty handy with a wrench, and I can read a Bentley guide... but I am not a mechanic.
    Quote Originally Posted by OneTimeCRX View Post
    Just in case this helps anyone with the same problem, here is the location where you should drill the hole behind the license plate:

    30mm (1.2") right of center;
    40mm (1.6") down from the license plate lights.

    Drill a 1" hole centered at the above coordinates, then use needle nose pliers to pull the exposed rod up to unlatch the trunk. Once you have the trunk open, loosen up the carpet panel that covers the latch mechanism and re-attach the rod to the button mechanism. Then use a small zip tie to secure the rod from falling off again.

    Finally, use touch-up paint to cover any bare metal in the hole you cut, and use a 1" rubber cap to close off the hole.

    The plastic bushing that was supposed to hold the rod in place was so loose in my car that it was a miracle it stayed on at all. I recommend everyone install a zip tie to prevent this problem from happening. It's cheap insurance from having to drill a hole in your sheet metal.
    Guys,
    I am running into the same problem. I have a whole pile of crap in the trunk, so going through the ski bag hole from the back is out of the question. I guess my next option is to drill holes in the trunk like you guys did. Before I do that, can someone PLEASE send a picture of the drilled hole, so I can have a better idea.
    Thanks a lot.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Huntsville, AL
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    61
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    1995 325is
    I had the same problem, I fixed mine by tightening the star screws holding the lock mechanisim to the trunk, the screws has loosened.

  22. #22
    Join Date
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    94 325I, 07 WRX
    Finally got it open!
    Long story short, started with the ski-bag hole, boxes in the trunk...no help.
    Drill hole behind the license plate, push the vertical rod up, WALA...open sesame!

    Locking mechanism seems OK, tho the actuator is not working. For the time being, I half-ass it by pulling off the rod that connect between the actuator and the lock. So, at lease I can use the key to lock/unlock the trunk.

    Wife is going away in a week or so, then I can really attack the problem.

  23. #23
    Join Date
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    '99 Cosmos M3
    I've been trying to open my trunk all morning. I have the carpet folded out on the lid and am looking at the picture shown below. I've pulled on everything i could with my hand in there but no cigar. Only lead i have is a ~2" x 1/8" spring came out. Suggestions?
    99 Cosmos ///M3/2





    NJ

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by rd99m3 View Post
    I've been trying to open my trunk all morning. I have the carpet folded out on the lid and am looking at the picture shown below. I've pulled on everything i could with my hand in there but no cigar. Only lead i have is a ~2" x 1/8" spring came out. Suggestions?
    There are two rods connected to the mechanism. According to your pic, the vertical one is connected to the actuator and the other one is connected to the trunk handle (I supposed you took the pic sideway.) Anyway, You should be able to pull the vertical rod (towards yourself) off the white piece, then unlock the trunk with your key and pull the handle.

    Good Luck.
    Last edited by Sammosti; 12-29-2010 at 10:29 PM.

  25. #25
    Join Date
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    '99 Cosmos M3
    sadly to say i pulled both rods off their little white clips one at a time and tried wiggling it open every way and still will not open. looks like ill be spending some money on this one
    99 Cosmos ///M3/2





    NJ

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