Schrick intake cam oddity

[Mad Dog 20/20]

While pulling the head, I noticed something odd about the Schrick intake cam. It is shaped in such a way that it blocks access to one of the head bolts - precluding you from removing the head w/out pulling the intake cam first. And also precluding you from installing the cam prior to replacing the head. Which is really why I'm posting this: it would suck for somebody to swap to schrick cams in the course of doing a HG, only to discover that they can't install the head once they had installed the cams.

I thought this was weird. Or is it?

Check it.

Compare the circled part of the intake cam with the corresponding part of the exhaust cam:



See how it blocks access to the head bolt. Dat ain't right.

[ScotcH]

Hmmmm .... I'd have to check the cams on my bench, but that does not look right. I have taken out heads with OE, schricks and Sunbelts cams installed without any issues. Are you sure that's a schrick? Maybe it was modified somehow? Balancing?

[Mad Dog 20/20]

Yeah, its a shrick. Apparently they are just like that. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...79&postcount=1

It may just be that my tool is too thick . . . I've been waiting years for a reason to say that.

[98M345]

Maybe try grinding down your E socket.

[pbonsalb]

I have been able to torque ARPs with Shrick cams in place. For the front two bolts, I have to use a ground down socket. I also have to rotate the cams for maximum clearance for each stud (or groups of studs dependent on that cam location -- but that does not work perfectly if you follow the correct tightening sequence).

I have also replaced old ARPs with new ARPs with Shricks in place.

[Mad Dog 20/20]

My tool is a thick 1/2" e12 socket designed for diff work, I think. I had ordered a 3/8" version from ZDmak for this job, but it still has not arrived - so I used what I had. EDIT: Just checked and the zdmak tool is also 1/2" . . . oh vell. It was not really a problem. Removing the cams, trays and lifters FIRST actually lightened the load considerably and made head removal an easy one man DIY affair. It also eliminated any risk of damaging extended valves upon lift-off.

Even if I have the smaller tool, I will prolly put the head back on w/out the cams installed, too. Just seems easier/safer . . .

[camlob]

Here is a thread that shows the problem of schricks in terms of servicing for shim adjustment for the S38B38. You may want to brows thru the photo's and see if the problems are similar.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e34...camshafts.html

[vertius]

Shiznit, I just discovered this tonight. I was all set to remove the last 14 bolts and then I noticed that one dam bolt that is blocked.

I think my work has a bench grinder, so I'll try grinding it and try again.

I have the Zdmak E12 1/2" socket.

[triggrhaapi]

Removing cams is a snap if you know the trick. Screw all that nonsense, just remove the cams and have an easier time of it. I can remove cams in around 20 minutes and install them in the same time.

[pbonsalb]

Just grind down a craftsman socket. You can get it past the Shricks for the last two bolts. I have done this several times.

[joenationwide]

what about using a wobble extension?

[savage217]

I rememeber with the stock cams I had to rotate the cams a bit to get access to the bolt but it looks like you cant do that right?

[vertius]

I rememeber with the stock cams I had to rotate the cams a bit to get access to the bolt but it looks like you cant do that right?

Right. If you look closely, there is a ring on the Shrick that just gets in the way.

Just grind down a craftsman socket. You can get it past the Shricks for the last two bolts. I have done this several times.

Cool, I hope my work has a bench grinder. If not, I am sure I can find one.

Removing cams is a snap if you know the trick. Screw all that nonsense, just remove the cams and have an easier time of it. I can remove cams in around 20 minutes and install them in the same time.

With my luck, I would be the first person to snap the camshafts.

I've removed cams from other cars without hesitation, but I can't bring myself to yank these off.

[NeilM]

I have Schricks and can remove the head with the cams in place using the special head bolt socket. Standard head bolts, not ARP, Raceware etc.

Looking at a photo of my head on the bench (hmmm, that reads oddly!) I can just about see the ring that could be in the way, but apparently it wasn't.

Neil

[vertius]

I have Schricks and can remove the head with the cams in place using the special head bolt socket. Standard head bolts, not ARP, Raceware etc.

Looking at a photo of my head on the bench (hmmm, that reads oddly!) I can just about see the ring that could be in the way, but apparently it wasn't.

Neil

Honestly, I don't even think it would even matter which head bolts are there. I can't even get the socket down far enough.

I think it is just that one section too.

[Beej]

I’m reviving an oooold topic here.
I’m having this same problem. I can’t even come close to fitting a 12mm docket in the hole to us ARP studs...let alone the E12 socket or special tool. Any tips?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ScotcH]

I’m reviving an oooold topic here.
I’m having this same problem. I can’t even come close to fitting a 12mm docket in the hole to us ARP studs...let alone the E12 socket or special tool. Any tips?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sure ... remove the cams

[Beej]

Sure ... remove the cams

My concern with that is that I have some stronger valve springs. I just picked the head up from the machine shop and he said he had to clamp the whole cam down to get the valve springs to compress. I’m afraid if I take it off, I may not get it back on.

[ScotcH]

My concern with that is that I have some stronger valve springs. I just picked the head up from the machine shop and he said he had to clamp the whole cam down to get the valve springs to compress. I’m afraid if I take it off, I may not get it back on.

Sure you can ... we do it all the time with massive cams and supertech springs. It's a bit of a pita, but it can be done.

Use the pelican cam removal method, but when you get to the last step (ie, when you're about to totally remove the final cap nuts), just rotate the cam a bit to take pressure off the spring. To install, do the opposite. Place the cam slightly rotated until you can get the nuts started, then rotate into the proper position, which will compress the springs. I'm about to install some big ass cams in the next couple days, so I can take some pics of a vid showing how I do it.

[Beej]

Sure you can ... we do it all the time with massive cams and supertech springs. It's a bit of a pita, but it can be done.

Use the pelican cam removal method, but when you get to the last step (ie, when you're about to totally remove the final cap nuts), just rotate the cam a bit to take pressure off the spring. To install, do the opposite. Place the cam slightly rotated until you can get the nuts started, then rotate into the proper position, which will compress the springs. I'm about to install some big ass cams in the next couple days, so I can take some pics of a vid showing how I do it.

Thanks for the help. I read the long-winded Pelican Parts instructions just now. It seems like the method I did when I removed the cam to get the head off of the car. Tedious, but it seems like it’s not as risky in snapping a cam as I thought. I hope to do this on Sunday, so we’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the help. If I can’t figure it out I may bug you for a video!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[NeilM]

I’m reviving an oooold topic here.
I’m having this same problem. I can’t even come close to fitting a 12mm docket in the hole to us ARP studs...let alone the E12 socket or special tool. Any tips?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There’s a tool for that: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p...sion-38-drive/

Edit: or this one for rather less, https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5940-Head...ZHNN89VAS4GK20

Neil

[Beej]

There’s a tool for that: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p...sion-38-drive/

Edit: or this one for rather less, https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5940-Head...ZHNN89VAS4GK20

Neil

Already got it. It doesn’t fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[pbonsalb]

Grind down a socket on a grinder. Make sure the socket has enough depth to full seat. Brands vary. I have changed ARP studs on a Schrick cammed motor without pulling the cams about 10 years ago.

Pulling cams is pretty easy and is probably easier overall. I installed schricks onto 83lb supertech springs a few years ago without issue.

[Beej]

Thanks for the help, guys. A friend helped me hold the camshaft, while I loosened the bearing caps using the long winded Pelican Parts instructions. Reinstalling, we had to install the cylinder 1 cap with the cam slightly off from pointed straight down, just to get the threads started. I believe this had cylinder 5 pointed slightly down as well.
Thanks!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[NeilM]

Already got it. It doesn’t fit.

Interesting, because I have Schricks in my S52 and all the head bolts come out just fine using the skinny head bolt tool. When I did my head gasket a number of years ago I took off and refitted the head with the cams in place.

Some subtle difference between the S50 and S52?

Neil
96 M3