I replaced the bushings in our 2000 528iT with Jason's tool back in 0ct 2012. Huge different, not so much in how it handled but in hitting bumps and going over speed bumps. With bad bushings, it almost feels like a huge shock wave going through the car from the rear. With new bushings, it feels like a normal car.
Anyone care to share how their replacements are holding up? 2 yrs and 35k miles later, it feels like it needs new bushings. We are moving on to a E61 535xi T but the E39 is staying in the family so I will need to replace the bushings at some point later in the year, hopefully to the Meyle HD versions.
can someone advise which is the tool from harbor freight that they used?
the link for the people who rent it is no longer working and their home page just talks about special coatings for guns
i can only find this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/bushing...set-68971.html
edit: also found this one at amazon, will it work?
thanks
http://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Insta...r+bushing+tool
Fredvent:
I am < 10 miles from you and have the touring subframe bushing tool for rent.
Let me know if you want to rent it and we can arrange a drop-off / pickup.
Easy-peasy lemon squeezy.
PM me or email: Jase007 at aol dot com.
Cheers!
question, do you guys use the retaining bolts? I can't seem to find anyone that sells the M12x1.5 bolt. Even rods to trim down to size are hard to come by. Do you have to use them or do they make the job THAT much easier?
'98 M3 5spd - '03 540it 6spd M-Sport
my $0.02 after my install:
You can use dish soap with water instead of the lube. It'll dry a lot faster. But yes, using that tool made it a 4 hour job. And you HAVE to disconnect the Self Leveling Sensors if you have them. When you drop the subframe, the wires aren't long enough and you'll break one of them.
I didn't use the replacement dow rods because I couldn't find any. I used my floor jack under the diff. Completely remove all 4 of the rods that go through the bushings and replace the rear two bushings first. Only drop the diff enough to get the tool on top of the bushing. Otherwise you'll be putting extra weight on the exhaust hanger and you don't want that to break.
After the rear two bushings are replaced, put back in the two rear bolts but only 1-2 turns. This way when you drop the diff more to get to the front bushings, you don't put that extra weight on the exhaust.
Last advice, clean the ever-loving schyt out of the bushing recepticle. I used #0000 steel wool and really get all the crud out. It makes all the difference when putting the bushings back in.
'98 M3 5spd - '03 540it 6spd M-Sport
Still here.
Time to do my subframe bushings, they are so noisy feels like the rear end is fall off at times. Anyone in the NJ area with experience replacing these?
Hi Folks,
Putting together an order with Pelican for a preventative fuel pump swap and was going to add some likely other maintenance items. My touring is harsh in the back end when going over sharp bumps at highway speeds, it is still quite planted and stable so I think the shocks are basically ok but reading around I think these bushes likely need replacement.
Pelican have 3 options, Febi @$39.75, Lemforder at $72.25 and Genuine at $114.75. They indicate Lemforder is the OEM. Reading through this thread I get the impression they don't last long, so I wonder does that mean we should buy the best quality possible, or does it mean they don't last long anyhow so why not save some coin if it needs doing every 3-4 years anyhow. I assume the Lemforder is as good as Genuine, but what about Febi? Anyone used them? Good or bad experiences?
Thanks
Uber
I used Jason subframe kit.
Worked fantastic. I included a ratchet wrench I had a duplicate of. The touring subframe bushings are good for 60-100K miles.
Jason,
Do you have contact information to rent the tool? I sent PM, wondering if you got that. I am based in Peoria, IL.
Thanks,
Yes, I second disconnecting the SLS connector if you have one. One thing I noticed was after the install, I am getting a knocking noise at a very low speed around 5 to 10 mph. Only when moving. My install wasn't so pleasant. After unscrewing all the bolts but not removing them completely, without supporting the differential, all 4 bolts were forced out. I'm guessing because of the differential weight. I was able to install everything back, but may have switched the mount bolts and stoppers plate. Do you guys think this might be the culprit of the knocking sound. I never had the knocking sound before the install.
What an awsome post wish there was some one in the uk renting the bush tool as mine are in dire need.
Many thanks! Glad it helped!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
Thank you all for you the helpful DIY and tips. I did this on my 2003 525iT yesterday in 3.75 hours. After searching around to buy the Franklin tool (AFT47) and considering getting in line to rent Jase's, I stumbled across this special made tool from Kommen Tools
http://www.kommentools.com/collectio...shing-tool-set
It worked like a champ! I used the Rein bushings available at ECStuning.com. My wagon is much more stable and the harsh shudder that was occurring every time I went over a seam in the pavement is gone!
I know several of you asked for an alternative to waiting to rent Jase's Franklin tool. I won't need mine for the next 100k so it's available to rent for $100 + $100 deposit. Just message me and we'll work it through Paypal. When I receive the tool back in undamaged condition I'll return your $100 deposit.
IMG_20160806_064943.jpgIMG_20160806_135025.jpg
Hi All,
Not sure if this thread is very active these days, but I've got an e39 touring with 112k on it and in need of this repair. I just bought the 4 bushings. Anyone in the Bay Area have the tool, or anyone care to rent it to me?
Thanks!
Better off in the e39 touring thread. Talk to M5 Jed he rents one and someone else iirc.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Touring/page15
--------------------------
'01 E39 525iT (Manual!)
Suspension goodies in a grocery getter!
'04 E53 X5 3.0 (Family Hauler)
Mostly stock, 192,000 miles and counting!
'09 E82 (Sold)
'89 944 Turbo (Sold)
'86 944 NA (Sold)
Hi, just did mine yesterday.
A friend made the tool for me, and done the job in about 4 hours.
I chose to put poly bushings, let's see how long they last...
Didn't use the retaining bolts.
In addition to WD40, you can heat up a little bit just before removing the old bushing, it makes the thing a lot easier. (like 2min at 600°c).
Last edited by ulmi; 08-14-2017 at 03:37 AM.
BLACKBMWs - Would you be able to get the pics back up for this job? It will be very much appreciated!
To resurrect...
I'm getting ready for the bushings job now. I've reached out to Jase007 and M5Jed to rent the tool, are both still active? Is the tool floating around somewhere?
Thanks everyone.
I have not logged in here on site in a while. However, after digging through my file , I see I replaced 4 original rear sub-frame mounts in the spring of 2013 with MEYLE HD # 33 31 1 094 036 (mfg# 300 333 1111/HD)....and I rented Jase's Franklin tool to do that. 2013 equates to < 100K mi. I seem to remember +- 90K and the old bushings had cracks. That mileage comes to mind as I always write the replacement part(s) install date big and where I can see it. Underneath the car looks like a calendar, lol. Those rear SACHS shocks are long gone and replaced now with BILSTIEN touring/ oem/ 19-106649 in Feb. 2018. These are steel bodied shocks compatible the (S227A) rears and I feel no difference from the SACHS aftermarket spec shocks. I recall 6 yrs ago being under the car R&R those bushings...man, used the foot to break a bolt or 4, cranking and cranking...sore body parts. It definitely made a difference in firmness and handling along with new rear shocks then. However, I still question the replacement with the MEYLE HD bushings. At about 153,500 mi. now they sure are hanging in there but, honestly, the rear end road feel, noise is not the same as my car when I got it at just > 20K mi.....and I have done a completer rear Lemforder rear arms ball joints, links replacement. The above mentioned ride quality is mostly apparent with a light load (fuel and otherwise) in the rear. Would I pull these solid rubber sub-frame bushings and put in Lemforder/ fluid filled now? Maybe if someone else did it for me...I don't know. last I did the front suspension arms, I used all Meyle and specifically for the thrust arm bushings. I think the Meyle HD sway bar links are better that the Lemforders I removed. Same as with the rear SF bushings, the FT. solid Meyle's have a different ride than stock OE/OEM. The E39 chassis is just real sensitive to outside road inputs (even the 540's with different steering). If you are going to rent a tool to do your touring's SF bushings, just remember to send it to the next user as clean as you would want it arriving to you....and read all these posts and elsewhere if need be. Ask questions.
Last edited by 5thbmw; 06-09-2019 at 11:46 AM. Reason: spelling
Jason
Can I get on the list for tool rental. I'm in Eastern PA, north of Allentown.
Fritz
570 778-9945
fritzs@ptd.net
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