Dang... I, like many others got the dreaded DSC, ABS and Yellow Brake light on a quick run to the Bay Area last week in my 1999 540it. As a bonus, I got a SES light on the return trip.
Carsoft read the error as a right rear wheel sensor error.
I replaced that wheel sensor to no avail. I was getting the lights when the car warmed up. (Although SES remained solid, no codes) After reading more and talking to Jared, I decided to replace my ABS sensor. While I could have send my module in to be repaired, I went new for $450.00, plus tax for a new Bosch module.
This is a 20 min replacement for the module. This includes the time to take the airbox off for easier access. It's sooo simple, it really dosen't require the pictures I did here, but I read some folks asking what it takes...
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For this DIY, you'll need a 10 mm socket and screwdriver for removing the air filter box. I used a 1/4" ratchet with 6" extension and T20 six point Torx for removing the ABS module.
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First, remove the air filter housing to gain better access to the ABS module lower Torx screws. Remove the airbox 10mm retaining bolt.
Unclip the retaining clips between the air filter housing and the MAF.
Unscrew the MAF hose clamp.
Lift the right side (Front facing rear) of the airbox to remove it and the MAF housing. Set both aside. Be careful with the MAF and it's connector/wiring.
Next, remove the ABS Module electrical connector. I used a screwdriver to slide the plastic retaining clip to the right. It is a plastic retaining clip, so do be careful not to break it. It slides over about 1 1/4 inches or so. Once the clip is fully to the right, lift the electrical connector straight up to remove.
Remove the ABS module itself. There are six T20 Torx screws holding it in place. I used a T20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket and a 6" extension. 3" extension shown.
Once all six screws are removed, pull the ABS module straight out towards the passenger side headlight.
Here's a shot of the old and new modules side by side. The new module is on the right. No visible damage on the old module.
There is a gasket attached to the new unit. Carefully place the new module over the control actuators. Loosely replace six new T20 Torx screws included with the new module. Tighten snug tight then a little more to seat the gasket.
Reattach the electrical connector. Position the electrical connector, lightly press down while pressing the retaining clip in to the left.
Reassemble the Air Filter box and MAF.
That's it. 26 minutes. (Six min for pictures) You're now ready to head to an Indy or cooperating dealer to get the module coded to your car.
I wonder if any heat shielding to protect the ABS module would prolong its service life?...
Whether you rebuild your failing unit or get a new one, in the end, they are easy to replace... Cheers!
Last edited by BlackBMWs; 05-18-2009 at 11:20 AM.
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
Yeah, baby!!!
Nice write-up.
nicely done rich. just waiting for mine to go bad. i'm pretty sure i won't have to drive to your house to do this...........pretty sure.
Winner winner, chicken dinner! If you google 'EAC Tuning'...the 3rd item is...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=eac+tuning&aq=f&oq=
"I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread
Great Write-up. Seems easy enough.
-in before tow!
Thanks all! Got it coded up today along with turning on the key memory function. It needs one other component and I get it back tomorrow...
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
I went thru a similar situation with my new-to-me 00 528it. It's a bit easier to get to the ABS Module on my car since there's no air box in the way.
If you want to make a few $$'s off of the old module, I know some of the rebuild places will buy it as a core to rebuild. The place I used (Auto + Truck Electronics) said they would pay $40, and I think they cover shipping (not 100% sure about that).
www.autoecu.com is their website.
Thanks much! I'll check it out this weekend when I get a few minutes. I was going to offer it up as a core for a few bucks if a forum member wanted one to rebuild.
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UPDATE: I got the ABS Module coded and steering angle checked and adjusted. All lights are now off, no codes and DSC is working just fine again.
1 hour, $98 bucks. Not something Carsoft 6.5 is able to do.
For those who are interested, I paid $450 plus tax for the new ABS Module, $0 for my installation labor and $98 for the ABS Module Coding and Steering Angle sensor adjustment.
Last edited by BlackBMWs; 05-14-2009 at 10:13 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
I actually had mine rebuilt for $120 got it back yesterday during my lunch i went to pick it up! My car was already hot: I installed it: Lights came off for about a minute: all came back on: abs/dsc/break/: now before I sent it out my speedometer was not working: now it works: So do I need to reset something? OR can it be a wheel sensor now? Thanks for any help!
Last edited by diegoe39; 06-18-2009 at 01:53 PM.
diegoe39,
Welcome to the forums.
If your speedo is working now, that could indicate a possible dirty/bad front wheel speed sensor. I don't think it is necessary to disconnect the battery, but maybe that is worth a try. Be aware that you may have to reset your clock and radio presets if you do this.
Great write up, my ABS just went bad recently and the shop thinks it is definitly the module.... They tested all the sensors and they work fine.... I will just do this myself and save myself some $$$$..... where did you get the ABS module from?
Cliff
1985 325e - wrecked
1995 318ti - sold
2002 325ci sport - stock + 18" ACS Type III wheels
WWW.eactuning.com. Great price for a new unit...
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
A Used ABS Module can be recoded for re-use with a different car, yes?
If I replace my suspected faulty unit, what functionality does the the abs have until I get it recoded? Will the abs actually work & get me through an MOT check?
Cheers
Please provide any information that may help.
My speedometer and vacum gagues as well as my odometer are intermittent. If the car sits for a day or so thay will work fine for about 5 or 10 minutes then out for the rest of the day. The ABS & DSC lights never light not even when I first turn on the key any check all other lights. I believe the wheel sensors are ok but not sure because of the intermittent problem. Does anyone have any suggestions for me? Is it possible the sensor box in the console is bad? Or the abs unit? I would think either would produce a constant ABS DSC light but I have no lights ever.
Hello all. What's the fix for the same problem for 97 540i? This will only work for 09/98 and above. Thanks.
Quick grave digging:
can anybody confirm that pins 29 and 13 are for the rear left(drivers side) abs sensor? Because I am having a hard time finding the problem and the connection from pin 13 is broken after the wire.
Hi Guys,
Just replaced a faulty ASC controller module on my E46. I now get an error - module VIN mismatch. I have a PA soft and a GT1. When I try to replace the
FGSTNR and ADGF with PA-Soft it just repeats back to the original ones. Can someone please list how they changed the ASC coding to match the original car ones please.
Thanks,
Michael
BlackBMWs, what a great write up. So thorough. I liked how you always identified which tools you used. You truly made this idiot proof. In case no one ever told you, you are damn good teacher.
This will be my first project. On my 2001 E39, the airbox isn't in the way, it's on the other side of the engine bay! Even easier! Got my Torx set today, and sending it to Reman-BBA for a $175-$225 rebuild.
Last edited by OnTheFence; 12-13-2011 at 09:39 PM.
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
Thank you very much!
My DIYs are possible due to the great feedback so many of the members contribute on this site.
I only hope it can help folks maintain these great cars!
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
I also had the exact same fault code, and replaced the rear sensor with no change in result, before we realized it wass the module.
Beacuse the code is correct its a brolen wire for the sensor, eathier in the sensor itself or in the module.
Buy a can of cooling spray for electronics you can get it at any hardware store.
Spray the module with the cooling spray all white with frost, don't worry you wont do it any harm, we used almost the whole can.
Then start you car if the light illuminates and the turns then the problem is in the module possible caused by a bad soldering.
The light will illuminate after a 4-5 seconds when the module gets back to normal temperature.
If this appears then you know that the problem is not the sensor itself.
The problem is in the module and you can have it repaired like i did, or replaced.
This is cheaper then replacing a sensor which is not faulty.
I tried all the free fixes first:
- cleaning of existing abs/wheel speed sensors
- swapping Left Rear speed sensor (speedometer related one) from my other e39 to this one
- cleaning of engine bay grounds on passenger side (where ABS mod grounds to)
none of that worked, so I sucked it up and started searching for info on ABS module rebuilds (the PO of my M5 had a new ABS module installed right before I purchased it and it was like 1200 or 1500 so I figured taking a chance on a rebuild was worth saving 1000+ bucks!). The two companies I found that were most recommended were Module Masters ($300) and BBA (@ $100 if you find their deals on eBay (apparently not always offered, in which case it's @ $200)). I went with BBA since I found a listing on eBay for < $97.50 including shipping both ways to MA and back. Sent the module in on a Monday, received it and reinstalled it on Thursday of the same week! All has been fine with the car ever since and btw BBA has a lifetime guarantee on the rebuild!!!
one note, apparently it is quite common that the modules can not be rebuild but in that case BBA will give you a full refund including on the shipping both ways I believe!
For others. Do a proper diagnosis BEFORE throwing parts at it.
The ABS connectors are famous for corrosion, I've seen a few with the pins having completely dissolved. There is one place to look.
Some time with a wiring diagram and you can check all the sensors from the module connector.
Having said all this I must acknowledge that the Bosch 5.7 modules do fail with alarming regularity but you'll be sorely disappointed if you plug in that XX hundred dollar reman and it doesn't cure the problem. If it were a twenty dollar part I'd say go ahead and change it out as it's cheaper than diagnostic time but this ain't the case.
Last edited by ross1; 03-28-2012 at 09:11 AM.
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