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Thread: Not sure if there is a class for this, low budget Father Son Build '79 E21

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    I have a friend "HDX on the forums" here we race with who's E21 is 1795lbs
    wow, that's freakin' awesome! is it partially tube-framed?

    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    To me (unless the project starts to last for ever) the build is as fun as the driving - almost.......

    .....and we raised the rear sub frame diff and all 1.5" up into the car. So we can run the car lower now and still have the rear suspension with in the factory settings.
    I agree. I really enjoy the building as much as the racing. my e36 build is here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=528816

    please give more details about how you raised the subframe 1.5".
    i'm exploring all the different suspension options right now......even thought about grafting in an entire E30 rear suspension with subframe, trailing arms, diff etc.

  2. #102
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    man i wish i can go this sunday to check out the car. but i'll be in vegas lol.
    RIP homie TehPandaShow: Loiue

  3. #103
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    couple other questions if you check this thread much....

    how did you get all the interior adhesive off the floor? I've used xylene but it takes a while and it's still really messy

    is your wiring all completely custom? no chassis harness?

    what kind of quick release steering wheel do you have? Is that an OEM wheel?

    is your fuel cell FIA certified? i'm looking at installing a fuel cell, but they are expensive!!

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmitro View Post
    wow, that's freakin' awesome! is it partially tube-framed?



    I agree. I really enjoy the building as much as the racing. my e36 build is here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=528816

    please give more details about how you raised the subframe 1.5".
    i'm exploring all the different suspension options right now......even thought about grafting in an entire E30 rear suspension with subframe, trailing arms, diff etc.
    HDX's car just has a six point cage in it at the moment

    To raise the subframe I removed the center of the heat shield at the rear of the drive shaft tunnel to start. Need to make room for the drive shaft to go up into the car more. Then I filed the stock subframe mounts with urethane, milled about .200" off of the bottoms and then installed them in the car up side down. This moves the subframe up into the body about 1.125" or so. Which meant I had to also shorten the rear hanger for the diff housing be the same 1.125" - I think in the future I will make an adjustable piece for this rear diff hanger, so I can play with pinion angle. I am not sure pinion angle will have much effect on a car with independent rear suspension, but it is something else to play with. I also had to do some floor and body reshaping or smashing to make room for the trailing arms to move up.

    Moving the rear subframe up lets you lower the car while keeping the rear suspension setting within the factories designed operating specs. And gives more forward and lateral bit to the car.

    Quote Originally Posted by jmitro View Post
    couple other questions if you check this thread much....

    how did you get all the interior adhesive off the floor? I've used xylene but it takes a while and it's still really messy

    is your wiring all completely custom? no chassis harness?

    what kind of quick release steering wheel do you have? Is that an OEM wheel?

    is your fuel cell FIA certified? i'm looking at installing a fuel cell, but they are expensive!!
    The interior had been cleaned by a PO - but I think the dry ice, putty knife and hammer thing sounds the cleanest way to me

    All the wiring in the car is custom/home done - I bought everything online at Del City - should be pictures of all the stuff in the thread. I would not use any of the stock wiring in the car just because of the age - you will save yourself a lot of troubles in the future by making all new wiring for the car.

    Do not reminder the name of the quick release - will have to find the receipt for it. The steering wheel is a pick-a-part find, my son found it for $3.00 it's holes matched the quick release perfectly. It is an old school three spoke thing from the sixties. We have a six piece wink mirror for the car too.

    I do not believe the cell is FIA certified - it is an 8 gallon JAZ cell, but it is the same size as the 8 gallon Fuel Safe so I can change it out if needed.

    I have pictures of the subframe work and a few other things I have done, just need the time to edit the pics and up load them to the site. Have a daughter getting married June 19 and all my family is coming in from out of state so I have been busy with all of this. Plus I am also thinking of opening a different web site for all this car stuff - business site is getting full.
    Hope this helps - Daryl
    Last edited by OLD MAN; 05-17-2010 at 12:52 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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  5. #105
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    NEED MORE PICS

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  6. #106
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    awesome build thread, very impressive! keep the updates coming

  7. #107
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    Thanks 340i

    To All about the up dates - Yes I know I am way behind in the up dating of this thread, have pictures need to edit and post. Try to start on this day - we are going to work on getting the passenger seat mounts started today.

    Also thinking of trying to finish the roof patch and maybe prime it next week end.

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  8. #108
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    next time you plan on going to adams, give me an amir a call
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  9. #109
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    Thumbs up

    I just had to run through all five pages neat build. It is nice having an understanding wife I tell mine it could be worse i could be bass fishing...

    I'm secretly eyeing an e21 that has no sunroof and original owner with anything paper that came with the car or done to it since 1980.. Good thing he's not selling it now I have no money
    Gary Gray



    If you can take it apart you can make it faster!

  10. #110
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    Daryl, I finally got time to get through all 5 pages as well. It's been a while since you've posted this, but it's a great build & gave me some new ideas.

    Thanks for sharing! Excellent work!
    e21: 1981 2.5L sleeper
    e21: 1982 323i Baur TC 1 # 4210
    e21: 1980 323i project or parts car, can't decide
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  11. #111
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    What we had planned to work on piece by piece in the last 17 months, since the last real up date:

    CAGE-
    1). Roof X tubes - Still not done.
    2). Door X tubes - Still not done.
    3). Adding some gusset tubes to the corners of the cage - Still not done.
    4). Rear sub-frame mounts - Done
    a. may make some solid ones or urethane filled stock ones - Done
    b. while doing the mounts want to rise the rear sub frame about 2 to 3 inches up into the car - Got 1 ¾” done
    c. tie the rear sub-frame into the cage via the tubes I ran through the rear seat area - Done
    d. make the rear trailing arm mounts adjustable for toe-in and chamber - Still not done.
    5). Gut the doors and finish them off with lexan windows so I can do the cage door X’s - Still not done.
    6). More muffler – Done but not enough, need more still at 98+ dba.
    7). E30 rear disc mod - Still not done, but may go to a custom Wilwood rear disc setup.

    Long term plans include – while Staying Married to the Greatest Lady in the world! “Sorry for the rest of you guys” but!
    Anyway:
    1). Lexan front windshield and rear window – Way off
    2). Continuing cage/tube chassis down to the front of car
    - Still not done, but may do it in the next three months.
    3). Designing new front suspension- Still not done.
    4). Front brake upgrade to Wilwood 11.75 rotors - Still not done – working on Paddle conversion parts
    5). Big -Rear disc brakes - Still not done, but working on the parts list and funding it.
    6). 2.7 to 2.8Lt. motor build – we have an E30 Super ETA and another 2.0Lt. head – so?- Still not done – but we are thinking it will be soon now do to all the blue smoke the 2lt is putting out.
    7). Rear wing - Still not done – not sure when.
    8). Wide body?? - Still not done- may never happen ($$$$)
    9). 5 Lug upgrade– Not sure we really need this?
    10). New front air dam and splitter – Done and did not like what I did – pulled it off, May make a new one out of aluminum that can be quickly removed from the front valance.
    11). A couple of more rear ends with different gearing, 4.10 and a 3.91 – Done – just have more parts to rebuild now..
    12).
    ???? this is a never ending story and money pit.

    Above is the list I last posted of things I wanted to still do –

    More info on things we have actually done in the last 17 months since we slammed it back together and started driving it again:


    • “Drive it”, some BMWCCA - San Diego chapter auto-x’s and at some SCCA (Cal Club) practice days along with a couple events. It is a ball to drive to drive!


    • Worked on mounting a US 320i”S” front air dam to the euro front valance – not an easy thing to do. The Euro front valance seems to have more of an inward angle below the bumper line so the air dam is a little to wide at the ends. It is also too long going past the wheel well edge by more then a ½”. Had to do some cutting, grinding and sanding to get it to match up.


    • Once I had the air dam on I worked on getting a splitter added to the bottom of it, which was another large job due to the out of shape cracked and twisted bottom edge of the 29 plus year old plastic molded air dam. But in the end I liked what we had so it was on the car – so to speak. We could not get the car on the trailer with the air dam and splitter on the valance, so we had to remove the grilles, then the valance to load the car on and off the trail. Time consuming even with cordless drills.



    • We had to hammer and cut the ends of the front valance – front of wheel wells – to make room for the 225/45-15 Hankook Rs3’s we got at the first event we went to. This did not turn out pretty having to do some bending work with a pair of vise grips – ouch.


    • Reworked the rear sub frame mounts
      • Bought some new OEM heavy duty mounts from the dealer and then filled them solid with 96 shore hardness polyurethane
      • Then milled .425” off the bottom face and installed them in the car upside down. What this did is raise the rear sub frame up in the car by about 1 ¾” which raised the trailing arm mounting points up into the body the same 1 3/4”. This allows us lower the ride height of the car 1 ¾” and maintain factory rear suspension geometry at the new ride height.
      • We also shortened the rear diff mount/hanger to match the raised subframe.
      • We also had to remove the e-brake cables and their steel tube housing from the tunnel to make room for the drive shaft to move up into it. Along with the E-brake parts we cut out some of the heat shielding for the original fuel tank supply lines used to let gas go between the two original gas tanks. Car was not very high off the ground - it does not look pretty, hack hack - need to clean it up someday.



    • Corner weighed the car and found it weighs 2130lb with full tank of gas – 8 gals. Cross weights are with 49% of each other front to back are off by about 100 lbs.


    • We put a Hooley 390cfm double pumper carb on about 13 months ago – it is in one of the older videos in a previous post but no state about it. It was purchased off Flee-bay from a dyno shop back east that built Dodge Nas-truck motors. Thing is assume to work with – motor runs great with it on.



    • After 12 months or so I finally got tired of taking the front of the car apart to get the car on and off the trailer so I removed the air dam and splitter from the front valance and cleaned up the mess I had made doing it.


    • Plugged most of the holes in the radiator core support head light holes, wire holes basically anything that did not have going through it. Result is the rear of the hood no longer rises up 4” when we are in third gear. And the motor runs cooler – no air gets into the motor compartment without going through the radiator. I believe we had a real high – high pressure area under the hood which slowed the air flow through the radiator because it was easier for the air to go through the big unrestricted openings we had.



    • We have been trying different springs on the car, in December I sent the front strut inserts into Bilsteins to be re-valved for 500 to 700 lb springs. When they came back we installed them with 550 lb 6 inch long Eibach springs. This made a great improvement to the handling of the car, basically illuminated 85% of the push up front. Car turns in now with only about 40% of the wheel input it use to take before the change.


    • Found another set of 15X7 Kosie K1’s @ 17mm offset so we picked them up, it is nice to be able to go to an event with a spare set of tires in case we cut one and it goes flat. Qualcomm stadium in San Diego can be hard on tires.


    • We picked up another 3:91 diff – it was an open diff – we welded it up. We like the drive out of the corners and the added throttle breaking it gives. But a welded diff is brutal at slow speed turns in the paddock and turn around to the staging lines, sounds like the CV’s want to fly apart. But at speed it is really fun!


    • We also picked up a used 4:10 LSD diff – so now we have three diffs along with the original 3:91 LSD diff that came in the car. We like the 4:10 gearing for auto-x better then the 3:91 but its LSD is worn and needs some new clutches and pressure plates in it.


    • This last February we, re-worked the exhaust again trying to quiet it down a lot, took out the 2” dull system and replaced it with a 2.5” single system that feeds into a Flow Master 16” long Pro HushPower muffler. It is still too load – about 98 dBs. So we are going back to the drawing board on this, may add a second muffler in the tunnel to see what it does. We would like to take it down another 12 to 15 dB. Also re-worked the ends of the headers some for 2” collectors into the Y that goes to the 2.5” tubing. This new system turned out to be a much cleaner looking system then the second. More work has been done to the exhaust and body since these pictures were taken, these are of the last fit up before the final cutting and welding of tubes and joints.





    • While the car was up off the ground during the exhaust work, I also finished connecting the chassis/cage tube in the above picture to the bottom of the rear subframe mount tying it into the cage on both the top and bottom now. Also while up in the air I hammered the front and rear wheel wells out and around some so that they do not look so hacked. They still need work but are looking better then they did before the smoothing of the hammer.


    • For Christmas I received money from most of my family – so I bought a set of slicks – DOT Hankook Z-214’s in 225/45-15s in C51 compound. We used them for the first time April 9, 2011 at San Diego chapters auto-x, we did the first practice session, 4 runs each, on the Rs3’s. Then for the second session we put on the brand new never run Z-214s and went out to run. I ran the first four laps trying to scuff them in so I was taking it easy on them, Really. Backing up for a minute, during the first session of practice my best of the four runs was a 91.something. So when I came to the finish line on am first run, of scuffing in the tires and taking it easy on them, I was shocked to see an 83.somthing on it!! Eight seconds faster going easier on a different set of tires?? Needless to say the hook is set and we are sold on the need and worth of good new tires over the spent used tires we have been buying. Adam did so good that day that During the timed runs he posted the fastest BMW time of the day which was only about .140 seconds over the second fastest non instructor that day, but still faster.



    • Some time early in 2010 we were at an event in San Diego, doing an up shift into third I broke the stock shifter in half, about 2" above the pivot ball. This made the rest of the day challenging to say the least. To fix it I got a couple different sizes of DOM tubing and a old school 2" shifter ball. After sometime tinkering we had a new and improved shifter that is really rack solid.


    • We have done other little things here and there – but this has hit the bigger things we have done. Did I mention we have been driving it and having a ball doing it?

    Here Is the in Car video of Adams fast time of the day run April 9 – time was an 81.619. Adam ran first and I ran my timed runs after his, I ran an 83.251 on my second run. On the third run a broke the driver’s side outer CV joint about 50 yards from the finish but it was good for first in class as Adam’s fast time bumped him out of the class first place trophy.

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnNzm050gwM[/ame]


    I will post pictures of the work later as I edit and size them, Daryl
    Last edited by OLD MAN; 04-16-2011 at 10:25 PM.

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  12. #112
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    Long Slender Columns!! How exactly does this work?
    I like small engines, so what!

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by robjohnson View Post
    Long Slender Columns!! How exactly does this work?
    Someone grabs the front and someone else the back of the car we left it up over our heads and then someone else slides the wheel stands under the tires. of course.















    Not really just being a smart @@@ - car isn't that light. Where I work we have a GOM 3D scanner, and we need to scan the bottom of vehicles. So we bought a portable single leg 6,000lb lift, that is based on a system like a pallet jack to move it around. So we lift the car, slide the wheel stands, we made, into place and lower it down onto them. All the time praying we do not have an earthquake will the vehicle is up on them. Then roll the lift out of the way until it is time to take the vehicle down again. Simple - but looks risky.... we think. This is the best way to get the scanner and tripod under and around the bottom of the vehicles to get the scans.

    This is the lift
    Last edited by OLD MAN; 04-18-2011 at 09:19 PM.

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  14. #114
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    great work Daryl, you really have put a lot of time into this car and it looks great.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by seatown88 View Post
    great work Daryl, you really have put a lot of time into this car and it looks great.

    Thanks Bill - Your car is coming along great also!


    One of the mods I did awhile back was to put some Braided Stainless Steel lines on the oil cooler. I believe that one of the PO's had adapted an E30 325i oil cooler into the car. To do so the the stock hard steel lines had been cut and rubber hose pushed over them and hose clamps used to hold them in place. This worked but we always had some oil seepage around the lines, I found some AN8 mild steel male fittings at the local Off-Road race supplier and picked 4 of them up for about $8.00 each. Had to do a little lathe work on the back sides so that they would fit over the stock steel lines coming out of the block and cooler, then had a friend with a tig welder weld them all up for me. We now have no oil seepage and I feel much better about the connections.









    I also reworked the rear sway bar mounting assembly to the rear trailing arms. originally it had the original factory style rubber bushings at the trailing arm. These were not ever fixable so using the different adjustment point on the sway bar was not possible. So I made these up, disconnecting one end for auto-x is also now a lot easier to do and it can be pivoted up and out of the way of the suspensions movement.


    Last edited by OLD MAN; 04-17-2011 at 11:21 AM.

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  16. #116
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    The hammering we did to the wheel wells was for getting these 10.5" wide Cantilever Hoosiers made to fit 7" rims into them. But after running the 225/45-15 Z-214s not sure we will go any further with working on running them. Plus the tire shop really hated trying to mount just one up for fitting it on the car.



    Here are some newer pictures of the wheel wells, and the exhaust out the body. We still need to do some more sanding, priming and painting to these areas. We welded in some sheet metal in the open area between the 4" tube going thur the body that the exhaust comes thur then added body filler.

    The down turn tip was put on the car late Friday night before heading down to SD in hopes of killing some of the sound. Not sure it did a lot for that but it did keep the exhaust from coming back into the interior when we slowed down.





    No filler on the front just paint, the thinner front single piece fender is much easier to work then the rear.



    Here is a picture of the quick support we made to connect the cage tubes to the bottom of the rear subframe mount. The inside is a picture the the cage welded at the top of the rear subframe mount, bigger tube with three others jointed to it.



    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  17. #117
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    Been driving the car some and working on it at the same time of course. When we were in San Diego April 9 @ the San Diego Chapter Auto-x we were 98 db on the meter. Which put us 6 db over the limit of 92. So I asked around and ended up putting a high flow cat in the system to see if it would help - it did - car is really noticeably quieter now.

    Not sure what the effects are no the power out put, but if it is too load to run without it then we need it.

    We did ok this past Sunday at an SCCA event at California Speedway so I think we are good for now. What we really need to work on is rebuilding the LSD it is almost an open diff now.

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  18. #118
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    Well it has been awhile since I posted an up date. No real mods/work on the car up until today. Back on Sept 19 I ran a track day at California speedway with the LA chapter of BMWCCA, had a great time and learned a lot thanks to Mathew!

    But during the third session I was going down one of the infield straight a ways and just before slowing for the up coming right hander I looked at the gauges and saw the oil pressure was at 0 psi - yes that was 0 psi .

    So we when around to a safe place to pull off and waited for the end of the session, actually started it back up and drove it to the pits and parked it. Motor made no sounds of bad things happening at all, but the oil pressure gauge line when pulled had nothing coming out of it when the motor was cranked over. Car has sat with nothing done to it until today, Adam came up for Christmas so today we started the task of pulling the motor, tranny, dash and wiring from under the hood and dash area.

    I am going to finish the cage (door bars, roof bars, gussets, braces and the chassis tubes to the front of the frame - out and down to the point the front sway bar is mounted to the car. I am hoping to have it back together and running for the San Diego Chapters track day in March out at Chuckwalla raceway.

    Plans are to change out the peddles and master cylinders Tilton or Wilwood and cut some metal out of the front of the car.

    Will start posting pictures as soon as I have done something worth taking pictures of.

    Ans as far as a class goes we run it in SCCA Solo2 So Cal "CalClub" in FP first of this year and last of last year, along with 6,8,12 mod at BMWCCA Auto-x events. We will be running the silver 80 320is in FSP - Historic 2 with the Cal Club until we get the track car back up and running.
    Last edited by OLD MAN; 12-26-2011 at 08:45 PM.

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  19. #119
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    Hey guys still looking good.

    I had my m10 blank out at 0 oil pressure once. No weird noises either, just the gauge i'm always glancing at reading dead zero. Maybe you'll be as lucky. It was a failed pump. Chain and all looked good but it wouldn't provide pressure. Worn internal gear. Also checked and replaced all the rod bearings on the bottom end. They were all slightly scratched and scored after running the light mile back to the house at low low rpm. Crank was in good shape.
    New pump and some new rod bearings it was back in business.

    I've 2 engine projects still ongoing into 2012. All in due time When I'm home I've been driving a 91 318is. My buddy is still planning to pickup the 320 to cage it and use for chump car racing series.

    Oh and if you are looking for someone to work that diff I recommend Rob at precision gearing in your neck of the woods.

    Rob
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    Happy New Year
    Last edited by autox320; 12-26-2011 at 11:39 PM.
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  20. #120
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    79 320/6 81320i 65malibu
    Good to here from you man - how are you doing? Hope you are well, were you home for Christmas?

    Adam is actually happy the motor sort-a failed, his 2.7 super ETA motor has been sitting in my garage "4 years" since he racked the E30 it was in, that he has been wanted me to put in the car. So this oil press thing has pushed the upgrade to the 2.7 to be done sooner. A little more grunt on the bottom end from the current 2lt. will be nice! When it was in his car it needed lots of tuning but was still putting out 148 HP at the wheels. He was going to the local junior college then and they had a chassis dyno in the Auto shop fun stuff.

    The tranny out of the E30 is bigger then the one in the car now, so I hope it will fit without cutting into the tunnel? Anyway Happy New Years to you.

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  21. #121
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Hanging in there, thanks for asking. Still workaholic. Christmas in noisy Baghdad again actually. Well at least the war is over for most of our uniforms.

    2.7L would be a beast. Others might chime in, but I don't think too much dent tuning is required for the tunnel. Maybe a few blows for a better fit. E21 tunnel is narrower. Saw you changed springs; good move. Do you guys still run a rear sway bar? Might change your mind and deleting it with the extra grunt of a 2.7 for better transfer. Good luck, and I'd like to see a video of that.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  22. #122
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    63
    My Cars
    535 E34
    Insanely nice car. Keep up the good work! Get a M3 3.2 engine with a 6-speed for it and you got yourself an insane track car.

  23. #123
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Corona California
    Posts
    4,313
    My Cars
    79 320/6 81320i 65malibu
    Quote Originally Posted by 3CSi View Post
    Insanely nice car. Keep up the good work! Get a M3 3.2 engine with a 6-speed for it and you got yourself an insane track car.
    Thanks, it is a fun car to drive with the 2lt. Not sure a 3.2 and 6 speed are in our budget?? I open to gifts..

    I am sure the 2.7 will make it faster, big thing is as we up the power we increase the change of breaking drive line parts, so far we have only broken two CVD's joints and no diffs. But we are also looking at bigger wheels and tires for the car this year so we will need to be careful with the diff.

    Speaking of Wheels anyone running "affordable" 4x100 - 15" X 9.5", 10" or 10.5" wide wheels with a 0 to 30mm off set? want to see what stretching the 225 45 tires we are running will do, currently they are on 7" wide Kosi's. Adam thinks these will be good for Auto-x, I do not care for the looks but the price is good to test the size and do the fitments with.
    Last edited by OLD MAN; 12-27-2011 at 05:33 PM.

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  24. #124
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Corona California
    Posts
    4,313
    My Cars
    79 320/6 81320i 65malibu
    Worked on the car today we pulled the engine, radiator, tranny, drive shaft, dash, all the wiring in the engine bay and from under the dash so it ready for the sawsall and some tube fitting. we are back at it. More to come.

    Big thank you to Adam and David for all the help could not have got it done with out you!
    Last edited by OLD MAN; 01-02-2012 at 10:29 PM.

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  25. #125
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    63
    My Cars
    535 E34
    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    Thanks, it is a fun car to drive with the 2lt. Not sure a 3.2 and 6 speed are in our budget?? I open to gifts..

    I am sure the 2.7 will make it faster, big thing is as we up the power we increase the change of breaking drive line parts, so far we have only broken two CVD's joints and no diffs. But we are also looking at bigger wheels and tires for the car this year so we will need to be careful with the diff.

    Speaking of Wheels anyone running "affordable" 4x100 - 15" X 9.5", 10" or 10.5" wide wheels with a 0 to 30mm off set? want to see what stretching the 225 45 tires we are running will do, currently they are on 7" wide Kosi's. Adam thinks these will be good for Auto-x, I do not care for the looks but the price is good to test the size and do the fitments with.
    Yeah, they are quite expensive. Around here they go for about 3k dollars each.

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