S54 Oil Pan & Pump Upgrade for the S52...here's what I learned.

[vinnymac]

OH SHit......another Must do mod...or so it seems.....

Maybe if I just stay slow .....I won't need this.

And you missed your calling as Tim's assistant on Tool Time Vinny...you would have been way better than Al......

Bob - you crank me up!

[BobWright]

Glad I can help Brother.....working 100 hrs a week with the new business.....well, you can either laugh or cry. So far, I am choosing to laugh.

and that is why I put the new Avitar on....all I have to do is look at this dumb ass, and I just start giggling. Troubles cease for a moment anyway.

[saem3]

Glad I can help Brother.....working 100 hrs a week with the new business.....well, you can either laugh or cry. So far, I am choosing to laugh.

and that is why I put the new Avitar on....all I have to do is look at this dumb ass, and I just start giggling. Troubles cease for a moment anyway.

Steve E.

[RJ's325ITS]

I'm using an OBD1 crankcase vent and the large hose is the oil drain and the small hose goes to the intake boot...same as it has always been.

You should look a bit better into a proper crankcase vent system, TRM has what you need to proper evac crankcase pressure.

In a proper system you will have your crankcase ventilation port to a hose that will lead to an oil catchcan. The catchcan will have another port that will lead to a vacuum source (usually the intake manifold or exhaust check valve) then you have the choice to run the drain back to the oil pan but on any modified cars you will drain your catchcan every other month or so (you DO NOT want this in your oil)

Also you will see lose HP witht he exhaust check valve, better lubrication, over all a cleaner engine..

GL
and good write up.

[vinnymac]

You should look a bit better into a proper crankcase vent system, TRM has what you need to proper evac crankcase pressure.

In a proper system you will have your crankcase ventilation port to a hose that will lead to an oil catchcan. The catchcan will have another port that will lead to a vacuum source (usually the intake manifold or exhaust check valve) then you have the choice to run the drain back to the oil pan but on any modified cars you will drain your catchcan every other month or so (you DO NOT want this in your oil)

Also you will see lose HP witht he exhaust check valve, better lubrication, over all a cleaner engine..

GL
and good write up.

Any examples of this setup? I saw Canton has a oil separator like what you described. Can't I also just port the crankcase vent to a breather catch can and be done with it?

[RJ's325ITS]

Any examples of this setup? I saw Canton has a oil separator like what you described. Can't I also just port the crankcase vent to a breather catch can and be done with it?

I dont have a picture or a link if that's what you're asking for.... you vent to the atmosphere but for some sanctioning bodys you have to recirculate either burn them in the exhaust or trow them back in to the oil pan ....

[NeilM]

Makes me wonder if it's not worth the expense of using the Eurosport adapter on your M50 manifold:



That way you keep the original oil separator and that part of the OBD-2 plumbing. My Eurosport cam kit included this, and the end result is reliable and effective. $375 though...

Neil

[vinnymac]

Makes me wonder if it's not worth the expense of using the Eurosport adapter on your M50 manifold:



That way you keep the original oil separator and that part of the OBD-2 plumbing. My Eurosport cam kit included this, and the end result is reliable and effective. $375 though...

Neil

Yeah, I used to have that adapter when my motor was OBD2. It's a very nicely designed piece and worked very well when I did the M50 intake manifold conversion.

I think I'm most likely going to leave my setup alone since it worked just fine before, or I will install a catch can with a breather.

[Naka]

On the parts list, you mention "Bolts" (and so does Realoem.com) to cover the smaller opening. But the pan actually comes with studs in this location.

The NUTS listed for the E36 325 are listed as ENDED in the Realoem site.

According to your picture, you used nuts and not bolts. Would you mind clarifying please?

And thanks a lot for your write up. It's extremely helpful. I'm working on mine now, and using your post and guidance.

[vinnymac]

On the parts list, you mention "Bolts" (and so does Realoem.com) to cover the smaller opening. But the pan actually comes with studs in this location.

The NUTS listed for the E36 325 are listed as ENDED in the Realoem site.

According to your picture, you used nuts and not bolts. Would you mind clarifying please?

And thanks a lot for your write up. It's extremely helpful. I'm working on mine now, and using your post and guidance.

The larger cover uses 6 bolts and the smaller cover uses three nuts as the pan has studs installed for that opening. The 325 nuts should be part number 07129904553.

[NeilM]

The NUTS listed for the E36 325 are listed as ENDED in the Realoem site.

Hey Gary, this isn't exactly a critical strength fastener application. You could use any handy M6 nut.

I've just finished installing the Euro version of the dual-pickup pump/pan, which for whatever reason has threaded holes in that location rather than studs (see pic). I'm also using the Turner temperature sensor adapter plate, which replaces the smaller of the two covers.

Below are a couple of other things I found during the installation. If you're using the S54 setup then they may not all apply to you, or not in exactly the same way.

The main oil pickup pipe's O-ring had barely any engagement into the oil pump port. I didn't like that, so I slotted the hole in one of the support brackets to move the pipe another couple of mm into the pump for a better seal. When I came to install the pan, this pipe now fell exactly into the middle of the big access hole, so it looks like I got it right. Not sure why the variation. Note that it's also much easier to install the pan with the main access cover/oil screen removed.

My original oil pan used 95mm long bolts for the very rearmost pair, the ones that are inside access holes in the bellhousing (clearly visible in the pic). The Euro pan has a different configuration in that area and required different bolts.

The OBD-2 cars have a larger diameter (at the bottom only) dipstick tube with a Y in it to accept the 12mm ID drain hose from the oil separator under the intake manifold. You can tell which diameter tube a given pan uses by checking the size of its lower O-ring on RealOEM. Both the Euro and S54 pans use the smaller diameter tube, as do the OBD-1 US versions. They both accept the drain hose via a separate fitting in the pan, next to the dipstick hole. In my case the pan fitting was for an 8mm hose, but the oil separator has a 12mm hose. I bought a 1/2" to 3/8" (close enough to 12mm and 8mm) double barb hose fitting adapter (Menards) and a short length of 3/8" hose (Autozone) to make the transition.

This difference in diameter meant that my dipstick tube wasn't going to fit into the new pan. I ordered an OBD-1 tube, but then had to cut the mounting and fuel hose support clip brackets off my original and weld them to the exact right positions on new one. Major PITA, but something had to be done and the end result is solid and mechanical. Yeah, I'm known for being somewhat obsessive about these things...

If you've done a full OBD-1 conversion like Vince then an early version dipstick tube would presumably bolt right up. I have the OBD-1 intake manifold, but with full OBD-2 plumbing, so had to deal with this stupid issue.

Edit: Re-reading Vince's original write-up I see that the S54 dipstick tube is usable on the S52 with the S54 pan, so that would certainly simplify things a bit. It would still be necessary to support the fuel lines, either with a bracket on the dipstick tube or in some other way.

Neil

PS: The brass fitting you can see is a Fumoto oil drain valve. It allows hooking up a drain hose and dumping used oil directly into a container. A lot less messy.

[vinnymac]

Hey Gary, this isn't exactly a critical strength fastener application. You could use any handy M6 nut.

I've just finished installing the Euro version of the dual-pickup pump/pan, which for whatever reason has threaded holes in that location rather than studs (see pic). I'm also using the Turner temperature sensor adapter plate, which replaces the smaller of the two covers.

Below are a couple of other things I found during the installation. If you're using the S54 setup then they may not all apply to you, or not in exactly the same way.

The main oil pickup pipe's O-ring had barely any engagement into the oil pump port. I didn't like that, so I slotted the hole in one of the support brackets to move the pipe another couple of mm into the pump for a better seal. When I came to install the pan, this pipe now fell exactly into the middle of the big access hole, so it looks like I got it right. Not sure why the variation. Note that it's also much easier to install the pan with the main access cover/oil screen removed.

My original oil pan used 95mm long bolts for the very rearmost pair, the ones that are inside access holes in the bellhousing (clearly visible in the pic). The Euro pan has a different configuration in that area and required 25mm long bolts. Shorter and there's not enough engagement, longer and they bottom out. I don't know about the S54 pan.

The OBD-2 cars have a larger diameter (at the bottom only) dipstick tube with a Y in it to accept the 12mm ID drain hose from the oil separator under the intake manifold. You can tell which diameter tube a given pan uses by checking the size of its lower O-ring on RealOEM. Both the Euro and S54 pans use the smaller diameter tube, as do the OBD-1 US versions. They both accept the drain hose via a separate fitting in the pan, next to the dipstick hole. In my case the pan fitting was for an 8mm hose, but the oil separator has a 12mm hose. I bought a 1/2" to 3/8" (close enough to 12mm and 8mm) double barb hose fitting adapter (Menards) and a short length of 3/8" hose (Autozone) to make the transition.

This difference in diameter meant that my dipstick tube wasn't going to fit into the new pan. I ordered an OBD-1 tube, but then had to cut the mounting and fuel hose support clip brackets off my original and weld them to the exact right positions on new one. Major PITA, but something had to be done and the end result is solid and mechanical. Yeah, I'm known for being somewhat obsessive about these things...

If you've done a full OBD-1 conversion like Vince then an early version dipstick tube would presumably bolt right up. I have the OBD-1 intake manifold, but with full OBD-2 plumbing, so had to deal with this stupid issue.

Neil

PS: The brass fitting you can see is a Fumoto oil drain valve. It allows hooking up a drain hose and dumping used oil directly into a container. A lot less messy.

Nice job Neil! The oil drain valve is a nice addition.

[NeilM]

Nice job Neil! The oil drain valve is a nice addition.

Thanks! On a "while I was in there" basis I installed a Z3 rack too, so I'm looking forward to the quicker steering. My 05 Mini Cooper S daily driver has really spoiled me for that, making the M3 feel a bit ponderous. I probably should have considered going your route with race quality PS hoses, but I already had all new stock parts. I have found that by rotating the PS reservoir slightly and paying close attention to the hose routing that I can minimize the strain on those hoses.

I'd put the oil drain valve on the Mini a while back, and thought it would be a handy addition to the M3 too.

Neil

[jbrannon7]

Did this upgrade fix the noisy valve train?

[vinnymac]

Did this upgrade fix the noisy valve train?

I've never had a noisy valve train...not sure what this upgrade has done for others. The primary goal was to eliminate oil starvation issues on track.

[admranger]

Nice writeup. Thanks for taking the time to do this.

[Naka]

Thanks for the extra info Neil. I bought an "upgrade kit" from Bimmerworld, and it came with the S54 oil dipstick tube. It is just missing the cover for the smaller opening.

I haven't done the OBD1 conversion yet, but it will be done before the engine goes back in the car.

I'll ty to post some pictures on the Track Build section when I get the time.

[bmwpowere36m3]

I'm trying to source a used S54 oil pan, and it seems like the P/N given by the OP is for 4/03 and newer M3's and is the superseded P/N for older (pre-04/03) models. Does anyone know the differences in the pans, or are they really all the same? Thanks.

*edit and the P/N for the oil pump is incorrect, or doesn't come up... I assume its this one: 11.41.7.838.123

[jcrist]

Hey Vinny. Great write up like always. I'm ordering the parts now, any additions or clarifications, maybe even some of the poster's recommendations you have added or modded to the install since?

[sstecker]

any chance you remember what diameter the black hose is on the valve cover with 2 pipe clamps and the blue line clamped to it? the one that covers the valve cover outlet. im running the same blue line to a catch can/breather (no pcv) but had it rigged up to the valve cover.

[vinnymac]

any chance you remember what diameter the black hose is on the valve cover with 2 pipe clamps and the blue line clamped to it? the one that covers the valve cover outlet. im running the same blue line to a catch can/breather (no pcv) but had it rigged up to the valve cover.

I used 1" rubber hose. It's whatever they had at Home Depot or Lowes at the time. It's not ideal since it's not oil resistent like automotive grade hose would be, but it hasn't given me any issues for 2 seasons.

[jcrist]

Hey Vinny. Great write up like always. I'm ordering the parts now, any additions or clarifications, maybe even some of the poster's recommendations you have added or modded to the install since?

Vinny?

[vinnymac]

Hey Vinny. Great write up like always. I'm ordering the parts now, any additions or clarifications, maybe even some of the poster's recommendations you have added or modded to the install since?

I don't think I have any changes to my original install write up. I've since tested the setup and it performed flawlessly under race conditions, so I'm pleased and wouldn't do anything differently.

[jcrist]

Thanks!

[sstecker]

I used 1" rubber hose. It's whatever they had at Home Depot or Lowes at the time. It's not ideal since it's not oil resistent like automotive grade hose would be, but it hasn't given me any issues for 2 seasons.

thanks. should work better than the system i had.