Hello there!
I was going to work this morning at 7:00 am as usual, so before i started my car, i was checking water, and oil level. I noticed on the other side of the sidewalk another bmw that was new in the neighborhood. A very nice E39 M5. A man came in the car and started his engine and left his parking spot without even thinkin of warming up the car!!! I usually wait for a minute or 2 depending on the outside temp before moving, and when i move i drive slowly for the first few miles. Now is it just me or is driving on cold engine temp a disaster as everyone say. I am just looking for some info about warming up the car in the morning and why is it necessary and for how long? I know it is a matter of oil thickness and so.. but i was seeking some more detailed info..and some self experience of who of u guys act like the M5 guy in my neighborhood.
Cheers
BMW states it is best to crank the car up and drive away. That gets the engine up to temp much faster than letting it idle.
I'll normally crank it up and get situated, but I'm usually off in about 30-45 seconds in the morning.
Just drive with low load and keep the revs low until about 5-10 mins after the thermostat first opens up(water temp in the middle) and you're good to go.
There's almost no warming that takes place by idling for a minute or two...you're wasting gas. Obviously you can wait a few seconds for oil pressure to build up before taking off, but you're better off driving and keeping the RPM's down to get the car warmed up IMO.
They enjoy burning gas or they are too big of a pansy to get in their car without some heat going. They certainly aren't helping their car in any way. They are actually hurting it by bringing it up to temp slower (often with the heat turned on full blast, delaying the process even longer).
Zero warm up time while sitting idling. I start driving and get the oil pressure up. Just take it easy on the revs and throttle until it's warm.
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
My new 335..I start it and take off and go..But do not get on it for a few minutes..
My E36 M3..I let it run for 3-4 minutes before taking off..
Long enough for the Airpump to turn on and then off..(after a couple minutes) and then I wait the other minute or two for the car to go into CLOSED LOOP..( I have a narrowband tied into my front stock O2's)..when the narrowband dithers..
And the wideband then dithers around stoichmetric..I go...
That is how I do it..
2008 335I Space Grey,Black leather, Steptronic
Vishnu Procede V3 (16-17 lb boost) ,AA FMIC,AA Discharge tube/BOV,AA Downpipes,AA Race Exhaust, AFE Elite intake,BSH catch can, OS Giken LSD, PSS10 suspension, H&R sway bars, Motorsport CF strut brace, Stoptech BBKS, Forgeline ZX3S 19 x 8.5 front and 19 x 9.5 rears w/P235 35 19 fronts and P275 30 19 rear Conti Extreme DW's,Motorsport alcantara digital steering wheel, P3 boost gauge..etc
2011 X3 X-Drive 35i, Mineral Silver, Oyster leather
Hartge Power Pack tuner, H&R sport springs, Forgeline DE3S 19 x 9 Conti Extreme DW P245 45 19 all around, Supersprint Exhaust
AA Preferred Dealer
i think that is the perfect thing, reading your wideband gauge!!
Btw just out of curiosity, U dont wait before u take off and go with ur 335, but how about when ur out and back home with the car warm. Do u wait for it to cool down for a while ?
I am just askin coz it is a twin turbo.!!
2008 335I Space Grey,Black leather, Steptronic
Vishnu Procede V3 (16-17 lb boost) ,AA FMIC,AA Discharge tube/BOV,AA Downpipes,AA Race Exhaust, AFE Elite intake,BSH catch can, OS Giken LSD, PSS10 suspension, H&R sway bars, Motorsport CF strut brace, Stoptech BBKS, Forgeline ZX3S 19 x 8.5 front and 19 x 9.5 rears w/P235 35 19 fronts and P275 30 19 rear Conti Extreme DW's,Motorsport alcantara digital steering wheel, P3 boost gauge..etc
2011 X3 X-Drive 35i, Mineral Silver, Oyster leather
Hartge Power Pack tuner, H&R sport springs, Forgeline DE3S 19 x 9 Conti Extreme DW P245 45 19 all around, Supersprint Exhaust
AA Preferred Dealer
Import cars usually Idle ~1500rpm when cold, BMW's are around 750rpm. This is done to accelerate the warm up process.
There should be no harm to the engine if you baby it when it's cold.
After about 2 minutes of driving I can watch the wideband and see the car go into closed loop. It runs slightly lean under part throttle in the 15s A/F until it goes to closed loop and drops to 14.5-14.7.
As far as the 335, I'm willing to bet they're water cooled turbos meaning they don't require a cool down.
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
....I'm boiling the tires as I back out of the garage
Don
I thought the BMW recommendation to not warm up the car was related to building up oil pressure to minimize wear.
I just wait until the revs dip down to idle after I start the car. Takes maybe 30-45 seconds depending on the outside temperature. Drive easy until at operating temp. and then give it a few more minutes after that if I'm going to drive hard.
-Usually when the engine temp. is in operating range doesnt necessarily mean the differential and transmission have warmed up sufficiently does it?
Definitely not, and even when the water temp reads "1230" or where the normal E36 gauge sits, your oil temp is not nearly up to temp yet for hard romping. I've seen the water temp needle hit "1230" as early as 125F water temp, and <80F oil temp. You really need to give it another few minutes to get that oil temp higher, especially in boosted cars. You should be able to feel the transmission come up to temp with changes in how "slick" the car shifts though, and that also takes quite awhile, although there's really nothing you can do about that one.
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Start car, wait a few seconds for oil pressure, drive away under light load.
2008 335I Space Grey,Black leather, Steptronic
Vishnu Procede V3 (16-17 lb boost) ,AA FMIC,AA Discharge tube/BOV,AA Downpipes,AA Race Exhaust, AFE Elite intake,BSH catch can, OS Giken LSD, PSS10 suspension, H&R sway bars, Motorsport CF strut brace, Stoptech BBKS, Forgeline ZX3S 19 x 8.5 front and 19 x 9.5 rears w/P235 35 19 fronts and P275 30 19 rear Conti Extreme DW's,Motorsport alcantara digital steering wheel, P3 boost gauge..etc
2011 X3 X-Drive 35i, Mineral Silver, Oyster leather
Hartge Power Pack tuner, H&R sport springs, Forgeline DE3S 19 x 9 Conti Extreme DW P245 45 19 all around, Supersprint Exhaust
AA Preferred Dealer
I drive and go as soon as I have OIL pressure, belts on, radio on, heat on. Probably a minute all in all.
97 M3/4
...420rwhp...Dinan SC
Tuned by AA, M50 Manifold, RMS Aftercooler
3.5 Porsche HFM, 42# injectors, Supersprint Exhaust
AA Turbo Clutch, AA LTW Flywheel, TCK Suspension
AA Strut bars (F&R), XBrace, BMP Rear Camber Correcting Arm
BBS RK wheels on Pilot PS2, CF Hood
Oil experts also recommend starting the vehicle and driving off immediately at low load/rpm. I'm curious how that applies to engines with aftermarket forged pistons though. Any difference?
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