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Don't you want the M30 B32? The '79 and earlier 533/633 have the cylinder heads that have the mount for the conventional distributor and are Carbed.Originally Posted by Blind Curve
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Meets: The only gathering I know about is Cars and Coffee. It is every Saturday morning at 10AM. It's a mix of just about anything as far as car makes go. Now that spring is approaching it should start picking up with attendance again. 465 and Merridean in the Paradise Bakery parking lot. It usually lasts about 2 hours. The groups age really varies(18-75), all are welcome. Loud music and burnouts are frowned upon(we don't want the merchants to get upset). If you appreciate cars, it's a pretty good time. Now that the snow has melted I will start going every Saturday, either in my Bavaria or my Volvo wagon.
M30 head: If I was just to do the head I think you are correct about the E12 head. From what I think I have learned so far, the B34 should work as a complete motor, and all I do is use my intake to run carbs. The B35 would work as well, but I need adapters for the motor mounts and to allow my distributor to work so I can run carbs. I just like the look of the carbs over the FI for my car.
At this point if I can find a good running motor 3.0, 3.3, or 3.5 I will use it. Mine isn't terrible right now, but I know it will just gets worse. So I need to do something.
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You'll have to bring the Bavaria down to the car show in Columbus on Sept 10/11th, there are usually several 635's there and it would be great to have a Bavaria.
What would you do for ignition? The B34 uses the Motronic ECU, there is no distributor per say, just a cap/rotor on the end of the camshaft. The Motronic uses pickups on the bellhousing (which you wouldn't have) for ignition.From what I think I have learned so far, the B34 should work as a complete motor, and all I do is use my intake to run carbs.
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Wow a car show put together with Highland games, how can I miss that. My family heritage is from the Isle of Skye, Clan MacLeod.
This is where I am still lacking the knowledge about the engine conversion. I already have a 265 5spd swap hooked to my 3.0. If I did a B34/35 conversion would I need to use a 3.3 head to allow for my distributor?
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I think so, but I thought you said your head was the problem?
What year is the 265 from, does it have the holes for the sensors?
I'm not sure which heads fit which blocks, but IIRC it was discussed a year or so at BC. You might try posting the question here:
http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=2
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I don't know what year the 5 spd came from, conversion was done by a previous owner. I'll have to crawl under the car to see if I can find out.
I was reading a thread from the BIGCOUPE link you supplied. Perhaps I may have been paranoid and premature with my fear. My car has been in the body shop for 8 months, and I have only recently started it again.
Being dead of winter and not running for a prolonged period, it may just be condensation. I had some coolant hoses leaking, and that could be the source of the coolant loss. I have no milkshake in the oil. The coolant smell while the engine was running may have come from a puddle of coolant sitting on part of the block. I cleaned that up and now I don't smell coolant while the engine is running.
I will check the plugs for any signs of coolant/water there. Since the weather is starting to warm up a bit now I'll change the oil and take it for a ride and see if anything reveals itself.
Oh, the moisture that has been dripping from the tailpipe is sort of a rusty red color. I'm hoping that might be an indication that it is just moisture that has been sitting from the period of not being operated.
Maybe I am just having some wishful thinking, or maybe I got lucky and dodged a bullet.
I am still interested in an engine conversion, so I am going to continue to find out about my options. Just in case my head is really cracked. besides I would mind have a bit more HP in my car.
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I've had some strange leaks in the cooling system with large, sudden changes in temp. No milkshake in the oil is good news.
You can do a leakdown compression test to see if there is any air getting into the coolant (bubbles in the expansion tank) and a good shop can test for CO2 in the coolant.
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Sat at 10 it is. Im only about 20 mins away from the north.
How about independent shops vs the local dealer? Any recommended shops? Id like to have my car inspected prior to the extended warranty (from non bmw dealership) expiring.
Last edited by Green335i; 02-26-2011 at 01:30 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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BMW CCA Member
Hello All. I'm thinking of moving to IN. Just outside Indy. Noblesville or Carmel area.
Anyone know of any good independent BMW only shops.
Do you all run front license plates if so i'll take the ticket. Dose Indy have emission and inspection?
Sent from my iPhone using BF.com
I do things the right way... IF I can't afford the right way, I don't need it.
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No front plates, emissions, or inspections. Just when you move to indiana you have to get a vin check performed.
I live in noblesville by morse lake. We originally moved to westfield after college in 2003 and only moved to noblesville cause we got a great deal on a big house a couple years ago. You get the biggest bang for the buck in noblesville....the. westfield..then fishers..then carmel. I actually own a home in westfield we converted to a rental and will be moving back there as soon as a great deal on an estate property comes to market. If you need any assistance or guidance let me know.
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BMW CCA Member
Thank you very much for the quick reply. One load off my mind. I'm taking a job and leaving sunny FL for Indy. Prob in the next few months.
I've been looking online and wow, I thought FL was cheap. Prices there are dirt for the houses. Going to rent for the first year.
Sent from my iPhone using BF.com
I do things the right way... IF I can't afford the right way, I don't need it.
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Yeah I was considering moving to cali after graduating but the cost of living in indiana is awesome. Pm me who you're future employer will be. Im in capital equipment sales and I have an extensive network with most of the leading manufacturing companies in indiana. I may be able to provide some insight to how the company operates....something you couldn't oherwise find out until after you've moved..
dinosaurs
reggies motorworks in westfield is a great place to have your bmws or any other car for that matter worked on. Reggie is a great guy and knows his stuff
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Hey Guys - How Do?
Just now getting around to other areas of the forum ...
What's attendance like now? Is it worth doing yet? (bit of a drive for me)
THAT'S ME!
(sorry, just reading thru the thread)
Last edited by Stroke5; 03-08-2011 at 01:37 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
If I can't stuff young Mr. Johnson up the tailpipe, I don't want it ...
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I'll drive by and maybe stop in this weekend to scope it out.
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Really depends on the weather. If it's cold, wet, snow the exotics don't make it. I don't know what the weather is calling for this Saturday. I won't make it this week. My wife volunteered me to help her sister and brother-in-law. Their basement flooded this past Sunday, so this coming weekend I get to do repairs and relay carpet.
Now that sounds much more fun then hanging out, lookin at, and talking about cars. Who wants to help?
If you make it hopefully it will be a good turn out.
Chris
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Haha.. I spent last week pulling wet carpet and pad from my basement!!
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The joys of a basement.
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I always tried to tell my ex that the utility of a basement would be best described as "indoor pool", but she never bought it. The ex-house has a french drain, that is - the perimeter of the slab cut up, holes drilled into each core of the bottom teir of block, the perimeter cut-out trenched with a full perimeter drain pipe to the sump pump, & heavy plastic from the sill plate under the floor joists above to the trench below. The trench gets backfilled over the plastic with a concrete pour to replace what was cut out.
It's a helluva lot more work than keeping water off the basement wall to begin with, but you really can't go back & make POs do what they should've. It does work, though, it works really well ... until a water line breaks ... then you're dragging out the pool chems & toys all over again.
Last edited by Stroke5; 03-08-2011 at 03:53 PM. Reason: failed smell check
If I can't stuff young Mr. Johnson up the tailpipe, I don't want it ...
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Indy is a great place to live. The cold weather from late October till the end of the beginning of April is not my most favorite thing though...And, like Green mentioned, we are dealing with tons of water lately and more to come tonight unfortunately...
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I have a perimeter drain..not sure about the details. I just know that my drain pipe is clogged outside of the house. It was a shame cause after I viewed all of our 1 year old carpet soaking up all the water I went outside and pulled my connector pipe and my pump had all of the standing water out in about 15 minutes.
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I did put a cleanout in every corner of the one I installed ... kind of anticipated sediment problems ... A quick hoseout a couple times a year keeps it clean.
Last edited by Stroke5; 03-08-2011 at 11:18 PM. Reason: wrong quote (geeze)
If I can't stuff young Mr. Johnson up the tailpipe, I don't want it ...
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My issue the drains coming to my dump but the drain out..oh and my dump backed up the other night from all the rain.. ive got a new "spare" pump im installing as well as a water powered backup sump pump. Any experience with the water powered vs battery?
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Simply put ...
Huh?
If I can't stuff young Mr. Johnson up the tailpipe, I don't want it ...
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Well.my phone keeps changing sump to dump...u mentioned having a cleanout on all corners..im assuming for the drainage lines coming into your sump pit.. my inbound lines are fine. Its the drain line out of my sump that's been the issue. Its clogged somewhere outside and underground. Will be digging it up in a couple of weeks. Im installing the water powered sump pump and giving it a seperate line out.
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