Thanks for all the input fellas. I'll get the guides before cracking into this. I changed to a single flywheel when I did the clutch, but I'd be willing to try pliers and the locking pin, still.
But I'm going to go with Rajicase's method that I hadn't heard of yet but makes sense. Thank you sir....sounds like it'll save time and money!
Was in a pinch yesterday when my impact/compressor wasn't up to the task. Using 5th gear + ebrake (I was by myself), a breaker bar and jack handle did the trick. Excellent tip, much appreciated.
Just wondering... I have this crankshaft that.. Uh.. Somehow still has the bolt and pulley on it. And. Ugh. WTF.... Anyway. Will this crank break if I set it in a vice close to the pulley and pry the crank Bolt off? Don't ask me how... All's I know is it's a 3.0l crankshaft from a trade.
Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.
HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!
-Oakdizzle
It's left lousy, I just removed that Mug from my 99 540
I applied a heavy amont of penatrate to outside of bolt on Wednesday. On Saturday i put the flywheel pin in hole and used a 3/4 breaker with 27mm socket and 4ft lead pipe. It put up a slight fight but started releasing after a 1/2 turn.
Regular thread. MUST have cheater pipe on breaker bar with about 4' of leverage. I wedged a cold chisel on a tooth on the balancer (850i) and still had to pull hard on pipe to break it loose.
You can take this bolt off in 5 minutes with the right tools.
3/4 in Breaker Bar (Ratchet)
27mm Socket for the 3/4 in Breaker Bar (Cannot use a 3/4 in to 1/2 in adapter I broke one trying)
Flywheel Pin (less than $10 online)
And 4’+ of metal pipe to put on the Breaker bar and use as leverage
You must note my model required the steering wheel to be turned all the way to one side so the flywheel pin could be inserted.
Used this method for a 2001 BMW 740il
Easiest way is a torque multiplier.
31pFmvSAYSL.jpg
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
What has worked for me a few times is the method of putting a long breaker bar/socket onto the bolt, getting it firm on the frame or the ground, then hitting the starter for one second. I always put a piece of plywood between the bolt and the radiator, for protection.
NO, it is right hand thread like everything else. Righty tighty, lefty loosey.
Given the force needed to break one loose someone so misinformed would perhaps snap off the bolt or do other damage trying to undo in the wrong direction.
with the engine in situ a long bar can be leaned on the left side frame rail and the starter employed to turn the engine. You need to be very careful, have anything in harms way out of the way, including yourself. With a bit of a gap between the bar and frame the starter has a chance to build inertia.
Crude but effective, for me anyway.
Last edited by ross1; 05-20-2019 at 02:22 PM.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
A word of caution: loosening via the starter works, but does not provide a way to properly torque the bolt down at re-assembly. THIS IS MANDATORY! I once lost a whole engine because I didn't do this. The crankshaft pulley got loose and destroyed the crankshaft. I think if I ever to that job again, I'll safety-wire it.
Good mechanic story:
I have 2009 BMW X5 is leaking oil from an engine seal (crankshaft). In order to removed the O ring seal I have to remove the “Jesus Bolt” (so they call it )
On my First try I broke the 27 mm socket. See pic
Second try I broke an 18” Breaker bar. With No luck see pic
I used a flame torch to light up Jesus, again no luck.( according to physics if you heat up metal it will get soft)
Guess what? Lighting JESUS did not help either.
I exchanged the breaker bar and socket which they have life time warranty ( lucky me, I saved some money here)
Again, I tried with the new breaker bar with no luck. But I managed to break the breaker bar again. See pic.
When I took the breaker bar to get it exchanged... again ...they asked me why am I keep breaking the bar, I told them that Jesus is punishing me.
Now I am running out of options.
JESUS please help!!!!
By the way, I made a tool to help me get the Jesus bolt out with no luck. FullSizeRender.jpg
FullSizeRender.jpg
See post #34. AND, use an impact socket - they're thicker and not as prone to cracking or shattering.
I've also used a 1" impact tool but I don't advise that for fear of damaging the case hardening on the crankshaft nose.
Last edited by tjm3; 08-07-2019 at 12:31 PM.
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
Hi Tjm3
It is actually what I used, black impact socket but it was the long socket the one I broke. I am using the the short black impact socket one now. It looks like my last option is to grind the front lip of the hub where the bolt sits and replaced the hub and bolt. I have tried to removed this bolt for a whole week. Wish me luck. Thank you for your advice
I'd check with a couple tool rental places to see if they have one of the torque multipliers for rent. They work very well for this function.
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
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