crankshaft bolt removal HELP

[DimenX]

Yes, another crankshaft bolt that dont want to be removed, I searched at the forum and found solutions like using a large breaker bar, heat and hammer, I tried all of this and it just wont turn, even the wood that I placed to hold the crankshaft was broken.

I applied heat to the bolt itself, am I wrong? where should I apply heat exactly?

I'm kind of frustrated, all the engine rebuilt process stoped because of that bolt.

[kryatov123]

you do know you need to twist it the other way? not like any other bolts,

[POPS M3]

Yes, another crankshaft bolt that dont want to be removed, I searched at the forum and found solutions like using a large breaker bar, heat and hammer, I tried all of this and it just wont turn, even the wood that I placed to hold the crankshaft was broken.

I applied heat to the bolt itself, am I wrong? where should I apply heat exactly?

I'm kind of frustrated, all the engine rebuilt process stoped because of that bolt.

The front crankshaft bolt can be tough to loosen. They are the normal right hand thread but are torqued to about 244 ft lb. You need a long breaker bar and most likely a cheater bar too. And a way to hold the crankshaft. I bought a tool that bolts to the harmonic balancer -- so I can keep the crank from turning. Then you use a breaker bar and most likely a cheater bar slipped over the breaker.

see pics. for tool. You only need the long crank holder bar. The disc is for a spacer on M42/M44 engines.

Ken

[ShabbaPlanks]

"even the wood that I placed to hold the crankshaft was broken."

Try using the correct tool. The crankshaft can be held with a metal bar that slides into the flywheel through the bell housing. How did you try to hold the crank with wood?

[PaddyMcP]

Don't buy a special tool... put a clutch cover bolt in the flywheel, put a bolt in the block and attach either a wrench or a homebrew metal bracket between the two so the flywheel can't rotate.

Good ol' floor jack handle slipped over the breaker bar and got to work. Work smarter, not harder as they say...


Next time think ahead and break the bolt loose before you pull the motor.

[325iklu]

heat and a impact.

[DimenX]

I surrended and took the block to a shop, they heated it impacted it, applied some chemical (dont know which one) and even broke a big rachet wrench and the bolt just dont want to loose.

It's normal threaded or inverse like the oil pump nut?

BTW it's a M50 non vanos

bump

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[TCarlisle]

If the shop used a ratchet then they probably don't have much expertise with this type of thing. What kind of shop was it? A general mechanic? Or was it a machine shop? I am sure a machine shop would get it out.

I am guessing since you are holding the crank with a wood block, the engine is not only out of the bay but also partially torn down? Do you have the oil pan off and are you putting a wood block between the block and the counterweights of the crank? Where are you using this wood?

I don't have an M50 so I don't know if the crank bolt is reverse threaded, but my guess is that it probably is. The bolt is about $6, and personally I would refresh it anyways -- especially if you have to wail on it to get it off. Order one and then you can see if it is left or right hand threaded.

Once you know what direction, you have to find a way to stabilize that crank. Wood is not going to cut it, as wood will flex, dent, and as you have seen break. You need that crank absolutely stationary. Hit the area around the bolt (not the bolt) with heat. It will probably take an acetylene (sp?) torch or better. Then use an impact wrench. If no impact wrench, then a breaker bar and a cheater bar over the breaker bar to give even more leverage. Of course, using 1/2 in drive socket and breaker bar, or 3/4 in if you can.

[DimenX]

It was a machine shop and yes the engine is partially torn down, the wood was placed between the block wall and counter weights.

[SergeK]

You need a breaker bar and a long pipe to put onto the breaker bar. And youll also need some BIG BIG pliars to hold the crank pully. I do this atleast once a week at work. ive got it mastered.

[DimenX]

I got it removed, Just needed to apply some phosphoric acid and it came loose easily

That was magic.

[m2pc]

For mine I just had the flywheel locking pin in place and used a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a long jack handle as an extension.
I had to practically jump on the bar to break it loose, but it came free pretty quickly!

For re-assembly I added some red loctite and did the reverse.

[Luke Stutz]

is it normal threads or reverse threads, im tearing down a m52 and its stuck good and want to make sure im going the right way

[flyfishvt]

is it normal threads or reverse threads, im tearing down a m52 and its stuck good and want to make sure im going the right way

Its normal thread and its on there with about 300 ft/lbs of torque. Get a 4' extension for your wrench. It will pop right off.

[jmo69]

Its normal thread and its on there with about 300 ft/lbs of torque. Get a 4' extension for your wrench. It will pop right off.

I don't know why they'd change from engine to engine but a few months back a friend did the timing chain guides on his M62 V8 in my garage and itvsure seems to me that we turned it cw to loosen. It did take a breaker bar and a 4 ft. cheater to get it loose.

[flyfishvt]

I don't know why they'd change from engine to engine but a few months back a friend did the timing chain guides on his M62 V8 in my garage and itvsure seems to me that we turned it cw to loosen. It did take a breaker bar and a 4 ft. cheater to get it loose.

Trust me....after doing 4 of those last winter it's normal thread on the e36 righty tighty lefty loosy

It's very possible your buddies was different but the e36 is normal thread

[Luke Stutz]

thanks guys i appreciate it!!!

[Boland01]

Lefty loosey to take off the bolt. I used a 3/4" socket, breaker bar and 4' extension. Came off fairly quickly. A floor jack with the breaker bar and extension would work too.

[ninekrpm]

The front crankshaft bolt can be tough to loosen. They are the normal right hand thread but are torqued to about 244 ft lb. You need a long breaker bar and most likely a cheater bar too. And a way to hold the crankshaft. I bought a tool that bolts to the harmonic balancer -- so I can keep the crank from turning. Then you use a breaker bar and most likely a cheater bar slipped over the breaker.

see pics. for tool. You only need the long crank holder bar. The disc is for a spacer on M42/M44 engines.

Ken

I bought the exact tool to work on the S52 - must be doing something wrong or I did not get a the spacer. Do I have to remove the crank pulley? The tool is flat and it does not fit in the crank pulley.

Is there a DIY somewhere...cannot find one.

[jair24611]

SergeK - "You need a breaker bar and a long pipe to put onto the breaker bar. And youll also need some BIG BIG pliars to hold the crank pully. I do this atleast once a week at work. ive got it mastered."

Anybody know how to do this with the pliars...(lock the crankshaft pulley)? A picture or good description would help immensely. I haven't been able to find a substitution for the BMW Crank lock tool, and I cant shell out many more small >$50 pops (how much it is for this tool and spacer). I know the cars are semi-expensive to maintain, but I'm starting to draw a line on what is worth the money and what needs to be dealt with the hard, old-school mechanic way.

I need to undo the crank bolt so I can put in a new crank case seal. - Anybody have a vote on how worthwhile doing the timing chain guides are? ...Could that be the first thing that fails and causes my beloved 180k M44 engine to die around 260k? at which point I would then be regretting not doing them now..

[e36fiend]

For mine I just had the flywheel locking pin in place and used a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a long jack handle as an extension.
I had to practically jump on the bar to break it loose, but it came free pretty quickly!

For re-assembly I added some red loctite and did the reverse.

Using the flywheel lock pin alone is not recommended, you may warp the flywheel. BMW makes a special tool to secure the crank while you use a breaker bar on the jesus bolt.

[boarder2k7]

Anybody have a vote on how worthwhile doing the timing chain guides are? ...Could that be the first thing that fails and causes my beloved 180k M44 engine to die around 260k? at which point I would then be regretting not doing them now..

My timing chain guide failed at around the 280k mark (guessing from the carfax report, a PO swapped the cluster and didn't write it down.)

From looking at the front of the engine, the upper right part broke off. It then got sucked through the crank and the tension snapped the tension pulley off (M42 had a pulley where the M44 has the slide by the tensioner). To her credit she got me home like that, no bent valves or anything. Ended up bring cheaper to get a complete engine to swap in rather than that inner timing case and tensioner pulley.

If you're spending the time, money, and effort to do a full rebuild, I'd do the chain and guides while I was in there.

Edit: I used the lock pin, a breaker bar, and a jackstand to pop the bolt out. I steadied the engine and bar while a friend stepped on it, popped right loose. Blue loctite to re-install, only use red if you have no intention of anyone being able to get it off ever again.

[rajicase]

Forget the lock pin, forget the special tool.

Put your car in 5th gear, have someone hold the brakes, get a 1/2" drive breaker bar with ~5ft cheater bar and start pulling. If your clutch slips before the bolt loosens, then give the cheater bar quick and forceful pulls. This method hasnt failed me yet.

And yes the chain guides are worth doing now lol! You are taking the timing cover off, spend the extra few dollars to replace them.

[flyfishvt]

Using the flywheel lock pin alone is not recommended, you may warp the flywheel. BMW makes a special tool to secure the crank while you use a breaker bar on the jesus bolt.

I have to disagree. Looking at where that locking pin inserts into a dual mass flywheel I just don't see how it's possible to warp that flywheel.

[rajicase]

I also don't believe it could warp the flywheel. Lots of people have used the lock pin to remove the crankshaft bolt, and I haven't heard of any issues.

BUT, personally I don't trust that pin. I am too afraid it is going to break(again, even though I have never heard of this happening). When I pulled my s50 I was lucky enough to be able to tackle that bolt with my impact. I have a nice ingersoll rand impact rated at 700ft/lbs and it took a solid 30 seconds before it broke loose. I just don't trust that pin to hold... even though all evidence has pointed to it being able to.