Stick four long thin nails (or 4 bits of wire hanger) into each of the four holes on each corner of the unit as far as they will go, then pull the unit out.
I dont see any of the photos can you please send them to me so I can install my amp
Isn't the "remote" wire being used the I-bus wire?
The line output converters will lower the power from the factory amp. This is required when using an aftermarket amp that cannot take hi level inputs. However, the output from the factory amp is a signal similar to a balanced output meaning the sound is generated from the difference in voltage between the two wires not between the wire or wires and ground. Key point, you will be susceptible to alternator whine or any number of electrical noises if you use an aftermarket amp that is not setup for balanced inputs. Balanced inputs cancel all noise even if you put a massive 480v transformer next to the wires.
Plenty of amps will take the balanced high level inputs meaning no line output convertors and you get to retain the noise rejection already built into your car.
Forgot to mention. Noise is more like magic than science. Dont take my statements to guarentee you will have noise. Its just the solution if you do get noise.
Last edited by bry195; 04-30-2012 at 11:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I have aftermarket subs and amp but i run the rca cable to the front of my car which looks cheap. So how would i connect my subs to the cd changer area and still get sound when i plug my phone into the cassete player plug in adaptor?? My current setup consists of the cassete adaptor , a headphone splitter, the rca cable and they all connect to my phone
This thread still alive ?
So, I just did this and it worked great just long enough to get my sub tuned and then the dsp quit working. Anyone else do this and have problems?
Nope... been working great. I also use my Alpine amps built in hi-level input instead of running a RCA converter.
I'm running a Phoenix gold with high level inputs, everything was working great for a couple hours. I shut it down buttoned up all my stuff and when I started it up, I had no sound and my dsp button on the monitor is blacked out now. I'm lost, really hoping the dsp amp didn't just give up.
Hmmm... check your amp fuse along with maybe disconnecting the amp remote or hi-level and see if it comes back. If not, check all the other car fuses. Maybe you tapped the wrong wire for the remote?
Bump.
Alternative is keeping stock appearance with a Monsoon upgraded factory sub enclosure.
http://e38.weebly.com/speakers.html
My E38 Project...................DSP Rear Deck Subwoofer box with Monsoon Speakers and Metal pulleyed window regulators NO longer for sale (click link to see how to make your own)....................................
First off, I apologize for bumping an old thread.
Using Mojo's guide, I installed an aftermarket amp and sub in my 740i. I opted to use a LOC as a few people have suggested throughout the thread. My issue is identical to the one mentioned above. I am confident that my factory amp is fine; however, I suspect that something is interfering with the signal of the DSP system that is preventing sound from playing.
I should also mention that my aftermarket remote wire is tapped into a fuse in the panel above the battery and not spliced into the factory remote wire.
I would greatly appreciate any suggestions as to what may causing the issue.
This was a great DIY, but now all the pictures are gone. Does anyone know how to get them back?
Schwarz II • heated steering wheel • Style 93 Wheels • Magnaflow high flow cats • Bluetooth • Black kidney grills • LED tail lights • Aluminum throttle bushings • Bazooka sub • 39% tint front 20% rear • Ultimate Cup Holder • Ultra High Perf Summer Tires • Bridgestone Blizzaks •
I saved this one
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