Buy a 6cyl cluster and put it in
~~
Bluebimma, did you do a fan delete? And if so, is it because it wouldn't fit? Because looking at the pictures, it doesn't look like the fan will fit in there. Also, did you swap to a lower temp thermostat to make up for not having a fan?
You cant use the original 4 cylinder electric fan, its too wide. I ran a lower profile fan, lower thermostat, water wetter, and the original 4 cylinder radiator. You can use the OE 6 cylinder mechanical fan with the swap though if you choose.
2001 E53 X5 - 5.3 Procharged, 4L80E RWD, Brembo, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
2005 E53 X5 - 6.0TT, 4L80E RWD, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
1996 E36 335ti - N54b30, A2W intercooled, ZF 6speed rwd, 4.10Lsd, Speedline magnesium rims, Brembo, S55 exhaust, 245/40/17-295/30/18, idrive, Forge, logic 7
1999 E36 360ti - 6.0, ls6 springs, ls6 cam, hardened pushrods, trunion, racing baffle, t56, ls7 clutch, m3 brakes, 4.10lsd
hi guys,
i have a problem getting my m50 started, its 1993 model and was automatic but i put manual gearbox on it.
the car i'm swapping it into is a 1992 model who was with a m40b16
i have attach anything i think, the chassis is connected both sides to x20 and the engine computer.
ground and + is connected good on both sides.
the engine starts very well but there is no fuel coming and no ignition/spark, nothing happens when i put fuel straight into the engine.
the fuel pump is ok, i drove the car in the garage 3 days ago and then started swapping, and also the engine (m50) and everything from the other car was working well.
also all of the lights a on when i plug the battery in, lights in the dashbord even though the key isn't in the car????
can anyone tell me what the problem might be??
thanks from Iceland,
-Bjarki
Considering your engine will turn over, but not run, id assume that the automatic harness isnt the issue, so id say its an issue with EWS or a variation of EWS. IF you have the EWS carrying signal wire, as posted earlier in the thread, try cutting that wire and see if you have spark and fuel. Otherwise, make sure the DME isnt wet and short circuiting.
2001 E53 X5 - 5.3 Procharged, 4L80E RWD, Brembo, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
2005 E53 X5 - 6.0TT, 4L80E RWD, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
1996 E36 335ti - N54b30, A2W intercooled, ZF 6speed rwd, 4.10Lsd, Speedline magnesium rims, Brembo, S55 exhaust, 245/40/17-295/30/18, idrive, Forge, logic 7
1999 E36 360ti - 6.0, ls6 springs, ls6 cam, hardened pushrods, trunion, racing baffle, t56, ls7 clutch, m3 brakes, 4.10lsd
hey Guys
I have been a Subaru guy for a long time but last year I sold my STI swapped 99 RS and bought a 1997 318i with auto transmission(long story). The transmission is starting to slip and it is painfully slow so I did what any car guys does, purchased a totaled 97 m3 sedan with 5 speed. I have the small issue of EWS II to work around. My donor has no key, so my plan A was to take the vin and title to the local bmw dealer( 70 miles away unfortunately) , buy a key and swap over the ignition switch, ews, dme, gauge cluster and engine harnesses and I am done with wiring.
However I have the issue of my 318 being an automatic, therefore my chassis harness is not wired for the clutch switch
Here is my question for the experts. Can I just simply swap engine harnesses, ignition switch, ews, dme, and jump the range box switch
Aside from the issue of the clutch switch am I missing anything else?
I would prefer to not have to swap out the chassis harness. I had to do this on my sti swap in order to have the JDM sti and usdm harness merged and boy did it suck! I can only imagine the bmw chassis harness is a whole lot worse to remove.
Thanks for the help in advance.
edit: looks like the range box switch simply replaces the clutch engagement switch so I should be able to just jump the range switch or wire in a momentary switch some where for security
Last edited by Jasonlee182; 03-11-2013 at 01:32 AM. Reason: new info
Seems like you figured it out. I currently have no neutral safety switch, which I think is what your talking about. My e36 was factory auto so there is no switch. I just don't try to start the car in gear without the clutch in haha. It's not a necessary part to running the car.
As for the EWS, you can use all your M3 EWS stuff(antenna, EWS module, DME) and put it in your 318i. Then just swap chips in the keys and your good to go, no need to waste money at the dealer.
~~
The engine harnesses are standalone, unplug from one car, plug into the next. Just get a shark injector tune or run a red label 413 dme with tune and ews2 delete. You don't need the neutral safety switch with the bypass for auto to manual. Don't get caught up, like other manufacturer chassis', everything is plug n play. Don't hack anything apart, it's unnecessary
2001 E53 X5 - 5.3 Procharged, 4L80E RWD, Brembo, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
2005 E53 X5 - 6.0TT, 4L80E RWD, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
1996 E36 335ti - N54b30, A2W intercooled, ZF 6speed rwd, 4.10Lsd, Speedline magnesium rims, Brembo, S55 exhaust, 245/40/17-295/30/18, idrive, Forge, logic 7
1999 E36 360ti - 6.0, ls6 springs, ls6 cam, hardened pushrods, trunion, racing baffle, t56, ls7 clutch, m3 brakes, 4.10lsd
I have been doing some research on the matter. I am picking up the car tomorrow and I will have a title to get a key. You mention running a red label 413 dme with tune and ews2 delete. From everything I read that will not work with since my car is a 98 obd2 ews2. I am going to call bimmerworld about flashing the dme for me to get rid of the ews2.
I also may have a bit of a problem in that the car is a salvage title. I have read BMW wont give me a key for a salvage car. Does that sound right? I have not asked the "local dealer" yet. I want to go down with my paper work and speak to them.
You probably won't be able to get a key from BMW, but you could always ask.
You could put a red label DME in there, but it's not the right DME for you engine. Easier to just get it tuned out of your current one.
~~
2001 E53 X5 - 5.3 Procharged, 4L80E RWD, Brembo, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
2005 E53 X5 - 6.0TT, 4L80E RWD, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
1996 E36 335ti - N54b30, A2W intercooled, ZF 6speed rwd, 4.10Lsd, Speedline magnesium rims, Brembo, S55 exhaust, 245/40/17-295/30/18, idrive, Forge, logic 7
1999 E36 360ti - 6.0, ls6 springs, ls6 cam, hardened pushrods, trunion, racing baffle, t56, ls7 clutch, m3 brakes, 4.10lsd
Ok, 2 additional problems-
1- The engine mounts are WAY off from the motor mounts on the chassis. Did you run into this problem and if so, how do I fix it? I could fabricate new ones, but it is a LONG stretch. At a huge loss. BTW- engine is a m50b25 from a '90 525i, and the car it is going into is a 95 316i.
2- The deep part of the oil pan is in the front and is sitting right where my tie rod is, and possibly the steering rack too. I did a search and noticed that the s50 oil pan has the deep part in the back, and that would fit fine, I'm pretty sure. With that being said, can I use the m50 oil pan, and if not.... does anyone have an oil pan handy for sale in the immediate future that has the deep part in the back?
Sorry if I sound desperate, but I am.
My mounts were fine, but they were from a 3series going into a 3 series.
Also the pan from my m50 fit into my 318i...
~~
Nooooooo. Don't tell me that. I'm currently searching for a compatible oil pan. I'm guessing it didn't fit because its coming from a 5 series. Anybody know where i can find a e36 m50 oil pan for cheap?
Thank you thank you thank you for posting this.
I read the entire thing a few days ago, now I have a question...or a few.
1) My 1995 318ti did not ship with cruse control, can I port over that unit from my 1997 M3 that did?
2) I have basic tools + cherri picker. And about $500 set aside to pick up tools along the way, any recommendations?
3) Average time to do this swap? space available = 1 (deep but not wide) car garage.
I'm doing this swap now and some things I can suggest are:
Have both male and female torx wrenches
Be patient
Read this thread more than once if you have a question, after you've read it, these nice folks can answer just about anything you need to know.
And an extra pair of hands can go a long way. I just pulled 2 engines by myself and I can tell you an extra pair of hand would have been invaluable.
Good luck and have fun
1) probably
2) socket set is fine
3) took me 20hrs single handed for the first time
~~
Is there any way to relocate the oil pump? My m50 oil pump is on the front side of my engine and I need it to be on the back.
Edit- the m50 in the e36 has the oil pickup that runs to the back of the motor. Duh.
Last edited by nlowe46; 03-23-2013 at 11:56 AM.
Since I'm new to engine swapping and was in a giant hurry, I disconnected all of the wires in the engine harness without making note of where they go. Does anyone know of a simple wiring diagram that shows the harness for the m50? Any help would e greatly appreciated.
Find a pinout for the DME connector and use a voltmeter to find out what each thing is. There is a pinout in the ETM.
I did the same thing...haha
~~
The ETM? And it's only a small handful of wires, it would just be a huge pain to do it by trial and error.
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