Page 2 of 10 FirstFirst 12345678910 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 243

Thread: Ultimate 4 Cylinder to 6 Cylinder Swap Thread

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    23
    My Cars
    1997 E36 318i
    i've the non-vanos ecu. Changing all the wiring harnes when the engine is in the car , its kind of tricky...
    Swaping the x20 connector will do the job ? Where can i get the wiring diagram for the 525i ?


    If you have some time add me to msn
    boby2442@hotmail.com.

    Even if i plug the + directly on the 18 pin on the female side. the starter only click or sping, but not both in same time
    Ground seems to be good. according to your video i got the battery light and i've check all ground with multimeter
    Last edited by EricE36; 08-06-2010 at 10:21 AM.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    canada
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    318ti ,impreza
    So i have the red dme , m50 with single vanos, 1996 318ti obd2 . do I still have to clip a ews wire just for it to run ? or is it a plug and play affair because the dme doesn't have ews.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    23
    My Cars
    1997 E36 318i
    What about the charcoal canister. the m50 canister is not the same that the m44 . even if i swap it there is one Hose missing ... the top one. and the canister is a vacuum , and i cant block it. cause is slightly bucking


    What have you done ?

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    43609
    Posts
    10,870
    My Cars
    335ti 360ti x5-6.0tt

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Murrieta CA
    Posts
    36
    My Cars
    E36 325i
    I have 1995 318ic, doing a 1998 M52 swap with red 413 ecm, I cut the EWS wire, now it starts for a second when i spray start up in the intake manifold. fuel pump only works if its jump start, checked the relay they are good. Now, I realize i have two wires hanging beside the fuel filter, its for the fuel pressure regulator 3/2 valve. Do i need this for my swap to be able to start my car? Need help to finish my swap project. thanks a bunch. email me if possible at karisonniapo@yahoo.com

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    23
    My Cars
    1997 E36 318i
    Btw I'm Curious To know what is your fuel Consumption


    Mine Turn around 14l\ 100km

    That alot

    That is On 93 octane gaz

    Even if i stile have the m44 tranny-Diff
    Dont think it should be so high....

    And e34 engine harness are compatible . The engine was griped and the starter wasnt enought strong to make it turn
    Last edited by EricE36; 10-17-2010 at 03:41 AM.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Orlando Fl
    Posts
    23
    My Cars
    97 328i 4 door purple

    93 318i

    I have a 1993 318i and was woundering how hard would it be to remove my four cylinder and put a 94 328i motor in. I want to keep the car stick but the 328 is auto.. Please help me I don't want to waste your time or mine. So thank you very much. Anthony

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Venlo, The Netherlands
    Posts
    42
    My Cars
    BMW E36 318iM50B25 Sedan
    You will need:
    Wiring loom of a 328i manual (or cut wires of the auto loom but thats not what i should do)
    328i engine and manual gearbox that can mount to it (320i/323i/325i/328i/M3 all the same)
    Flywheel of a manual M50/S50
    Clutch of a M50/S50
    Propshaft of a 6 cilinder
    complete rear axle with diff and brakes of a 328i or M3 (not a 320i/325i because 328i uses ventilated disks at the rear)

    Wanna know more?
    BMW E36 318i Sedan swaped to M50B25, So a 318i 24v

    Mods: Coilovers, 328i brakes, OEM French M3 Alpina Yellow lights, steelies for now 18"s are getting new paint, Freeflow exhaust with only a Rear silencer, Open Air filter, black roof, chip tuned..
    Up Comming: Stage 2 Turbokit, LED Rearlights (but oem look), custum leather dashboard with E46 centre console, etc.. etc.. etc..

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    43609
    Posts
    10,870
    My Cars
    335ti 360ti x5-6.0tt
    Youre in america, there is no 1994 M52b28 available. The m52 wasnt available until 1996 and is OBDII versus your OBDI chassis. In order for the conversion to go seemless, you should purchase an M52, manual engine harness for an m52, clutch kit with mating flywheel, reuse your slave cylinder (assuming your car is manual), install the correct driveshaft from a 328 manual, differential from a 6cylinder equipped e36, proper drive axles, convert to the 6cylinder cooling system or modify your 4 to fit with an aftermarket cooling fan, m3 camshafts (optional),install a m50 intake manifold, m50 fuel rail with FPR on rail, rerun the fuel line since you wont have the proper setup due to most m52s using an fpr setup that is underneath the chassis, not on the rail, and with an electrical connection, and top it off with either a RED labeled 413 DME or purchase the proper 413 DME and chip from a vendor to utilize everything from the swap which should be near stock m3 output.

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    My Cars
    Mine
    Bluebimma you are a bloody legend

    Now I hope you realise that you have just opened the flood gates to all randoms around the world for tech answers

    OK in OZ have a 95 coupe 318 built in Germany or so it says on the plate as I am aware that some imported here were from South Africa, getting to the point, if I got the drive line of a 325 can I slot it in and turn the key and go ???

    Also there (as I haven't researched weight differential yet plus added power - OH bring it on) were rhumours that additional reinforcements are required, maybe getting confused in the V8 build, but are there any required ? Obvious suspension upgrades but more thinking structural ?

    Thanks Mate

    Merry Xmas & Cheers All
    Last edited by AWASP; 12-12-2010 at 02:13 AM.
    Alcoholic With A Sailing Problem

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    43609
    Posts
    10,870
    My Cars
    335ti 360ti x5-6.0tt
    Honestly, from the research and all the years being on this forum and reading others stories, you can break the the e36 and z3 in many ways with either a 4 or 6 cylinder without reinforcements. There are kits available for non-m cars that reinforce these areas. The ti has been the only e36 chassis ive come across that hasnt had issues with reinforcing beyond just the standard shock and strut mounts. In your case, there are reinforcements for the rear of the car and the front crossmember for the engine mounts. I havent had any issues with my cars and i run the non-m front crossmember.

    Depending on what date the 95 is, you may have EWSI or EWSII. In the ti, all US shipped models had EWSII even with the OBDI 95 chassis. From the 325, youll just need to purchase a dme without EWS (red labelled) or buy a chip that deletes it. Otherwise, yes, its just bolt in and go.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Tucson, Az
    Posts
    35
    My Cars
    1995 325is
    I have a 92 318i e36 and I just for ahold of a 92 325i e36 engine. Ive never done a swap before. Is there thing that I need to buy other than the engine so it runs other than the flywheel and clutch that I will have to replace eventually.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Upstate
    Posts
    2,198
    My Cars
    E28
    Great thread. Thanks for all of the info. I have one question though:

    Has anyone done this swap and kept their A/C? I have pulled the m50 out of my '93 325i, but I do not know if it used r12 or r134a. I am in the process of putting the m50 into my '95 318is, which uses r134a. Is it ok to use the compressor from the m50 with the A/C system from the 318is? Or is there some way to make the 318is compressor bolt to the m50?

    Thanks in advance.

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Hamilton, NJ
    Posts
    659
    My Cars
    '97 332ti
    Quick question, I've had my car swapped for about 5 years now (10/96 318ti body, 98 MY S52), and I'm finally getting around to finishing up with all the emissions problems so I can get a good inspection sticker. First problem was a p code that I can't remember the number of... Fuel tank pressure sensor. The ti didn't get a tank sensor til 11/96 build date, but the S52 dme was looking for one. Fixed by wiring in that sensor, and evap expansion tank.

    Current problem - P1403 (i think) carbon canister shut off valve. Once again, my car did not come from the factory with this part. Trying to trace out the wiring diagrams, but the bentley ones aren't helping. I know its coming off pin 51 of the dme, but that's as far as I can trace it.

    Any help? Way around it?

    TIA.

    Looking to trade my SnapOn KRL1022 w/ Stainless Top for a turbo setup and coilovers. $8600 new.

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    43609
    Posts
    10,870
    My Cars
    335ti 360ti x5-6.0tt

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    myrtle beach, sc
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    '95 318ti, '97 11JZ111
    Okay. 1997 (prod date 11/96 Z3 1.9l car) using a 1992 M50, red 402 DME.

    I have a question or three about the wiring on the drivers side.. x20/x6031.

    First, my m50 harness has no x6031 connector on it..so I'm assuming that you are referring to the chassis harness side for adding the gray x20 #8 wire to the gray #1 x6031 pin. Specifically what I did though is cut the x6031 harness plug off an old 1997 318i harness and attached the gray wire to that so it looked clean. Is that okay, or should I just splice it into the underside of the x6031 chassis plug and leave the top of the plug open? Dont think it would matter.. the pins correspond either way. Main question is.. what side of the cut wire on x20 do I connect to x6031? Right now I have it attached from the m50 harness side. Should it be from the chassis side instead?

    Second, in the write up on the first page, you say that pin #14 black/white for the speed signal is in x6031.. my x6031 only has 12 pins, however x20 has a corresponding pin at #14, same color. When you add in the black/white wire from the radio or cluster.. when the wire is cut at x20, what side of the cut wire on the plug is the new wire attached to? Engine side or chassis side of x20?

    Third, I cut what I assume is the EWS signal wire, I cut it on the x20, #7 on the m50 harness, it was black/violet. Is that correct? I looked at the corresponding wire on the chassis side of x20 and it is a large green one.. probably 12ga wire.. should that one be the one I cut instead? Don't think it would matter, because the signal is not going to get thru either way.

    Okay.. so I made the above connections.. you tell me if they are good or bad. Here is what I'm dealing with.

    As soon as the battery is connected, I have a solenoid under the m50 intake manifold that hums. It doesnt turn off if disconnect x20 either. If you look under the manifold from the front, you can see a plug going into the front end of it. This is key on or off.

    The car cranks. No spark, and from what I can tell no fuel.

    Odd thing about the z3. The main relays that are usually on the fusebox under the hood in e36s are under the drivers dash. I also have the relays on the m50 harness now too. How is that going to work? The relays on the m50 harness do click, but from what I can tell the z3 relays under the dash do not. I do not hear the fuel pump. Havent checked fuel pressure since it was getting dark..is there a schrader vlave?

    I have the main power lug on the m50 harness going into the fuse box on the drivers side. I have the main power lug on the passenger side going to the (+) distribution block(13mm nut) (z3 has rear battery), and the next one closest to it also going to the (+) distribution block (10mm nut). The lug closest to the diagnostic port plug is attached to the factory ground on the strut tower. The factory frame to mount ground on the passenger side is attached..

    Sorry to write a book, but I didnt want to leave anything out.

    help
    new projekt 11JZ111...
    For sale???? say it aint so....

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    myrtle beach, sc
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    '95 318ti, '97 11JZ111
    update. based on what you said in my other post about just drop and go since it is a racecar, no worries about check engine lights..etc.. i undid all the wiring connections and put it back to stock. still the same. no start, cranks but no fuel/spark.

    i'm thinking that the humming solenoid is possibly the IACV? it has a hose going to the intake manifold underneath. I disconneted the small 10mm nutted + lug on the passenger side and it stops. Sounds to me like this maybe should be on switched 12v+ power instead of constant??

    Another discovery I made looking at the crank position sensor, it is dented on the bottom. When I bought the car the motor came from, it wasnt running. The PO had tried relays, fuel pump..etc.. and apparently tried to get the CPS out by prying it (thats why the dent) because it was seized in the block. I was able to work it out finally and cleaned up the hole for the sensor. New one will be here tomorrow. Hopefully that is it.. seems to fit the symptoms I guess. Wish I had a spare to check it with though. Fingers crossed
    new projekt 11JZ111...
    For sale???? say it aint so....

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    myrtle beach, sc
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    '95 318ti, '97 11JZ111
    replaced crank position sensor.no change.
    new projekt 11JZ111...
    For sale???? say it aint so....

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    43609
    Posts
    10,870
    My Cars
    335ti 360ti x5-6.0tt
    Just recheck the grounds and hot leads to the chassis by cutting back the sleeves to see if the wires are brown or red. Another thing could be like how my 98 was, parts car hacked apart and I rewired and put together for a dd. Ews could still be causing an issue. My 98 has a 95 engine with an ews2 harness, 93 non-ews dme, and would only run once I cut the two main wires at the ews module and shorted them together. It's the large green with black and large yellow with black stripe. Once thosewerw shorted together, the starter engaged and I got fuel and spark. Otherwise, the basics didnt make it run. You should also be looking at your wire schematics to make sure you're actually connecting the correct stuff together if you're altering wiring on a z3 andthimgs don't see to match up.

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    myrtle beach, sc
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    '95 318ti, '97 11JZ111
    already cut back the insulation on the +/- lugs just to make sure. they are in the right place.

    i'm getting ready to reinstall the m44 harness into the car so i can check the wires one by one and map it out..pos, neg, 5v signal..etc. I'll then compare the wire colors/functions to the m50

    i dont have a schematic for the z3..asked for one on the z3 section, but nothing yet. i have an e36 bentley manual, but it is on my other laptop which is apparently not working right now.. wont start up.. grrrrrrrrrrr.

    oh, and would the car still crank if it were an EWS issue? didnt think the starter would engage at all if EWS were stopping it..mine has been turning over no problem, just no fuel/spark.
    Last edited by projekt EPiK; 05-13-2011 at 04:27 PM.
    new projekt 11JZ111...
    For sale???? say it aint so....

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    myrtle beach, sc
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    '95 318ti, '97 11JZ111
    running.

    several problems. the PO of the car that I pulled this motor from was trying several things to make it run and gave up.. hence me paying only $400 for the 92 325i. Long story short, he swapped a few relays around. Putting them back in the correct position and the IACV stopped humming.

    I figured out that the 2 sets of relays (m50 harness, and z3 chassis) were not communicating..specifically the fuel relay. The m50 harness relay was energized, but the signal was not getting to the z3 one.. I tested a few wires and have a temporary jumper from pin 30 on the m50 harness fuel relay to pin 87 on the z3 chassis harness fuel relay. Fuel pump runs with switched ignition. No prime and stop, but since it is a returning system and this is a race car, I'm not bothered by that.

    Spark issue turns out to be minor EWS involvement, but that was taken care of by snipping the black/purple #7 wire in x20.

    Car fired right up...loud..right out of the stainless headers. Sounds like victory

    Tomorrow I'll button it up right and make all the connections permanent.

    I dropped the 92 325i cluster in last night and was disappointed that nothing worked on it but the battery light. So I decided to pull it and take a look. The white plug was clipped but not seated and hanging out. I love it when it's easy.

    Should be driving it tomorrow and drifting it next sunday with another 40-50hp than last time out in my m44, considering the stainless headers and the TMS chip that is on the way.
    new projekt 11JZ111...
    For sale???? say it aint so....

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    1989 ix

    Question

    question for Bluebimma, i have a 1996 318ti with s50 engine, trans, cluster. 413 red dme. from 95m3.
    i have the check engine light on and the only code i get from the gas stomp test is 1263 EVAP. there is no evap on my set up. i also have no ews. is there a way for me to trick the dme to think that the evap system is fine. i just want this check engine light off. any help would be grate.
    Last edited by silenpro; 06-13-2011 at 10:46 PM.

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    43609
    Posts
    10,870
    My Cars
    335ti 360ti x5-6.0tt

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta Canada
    Posts
    576
    My Cars
    96 328is
    for anyone looking for wiring for their car here is a good link to use

    http://www.wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm


    also i will starting my m50 swap shortly and will follow this very excellent guide thank you bluebimma!!

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Venlo, The Netherlands
    Posts
    42
    My Cars
    BMW E36 318iM50B25 Sedan
    Like i said in this post: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...6&postcount=35

    Things that have to replaced or moved are simple:
    Fuel filter need to be replaced, need 30cm extra hose..
    The Battery needs to be placed in the back, or do what i did..
    The complete rear axle incl. diff and Cardan axle needs to be replaced..
    Wire everything up (soo plain simple)
    Steeringpump needs to be from a 6 cilinder incl. the 'cooler' and both hoses.. There are screw holes already in your steeringhouse so that is not a big problem, plug and play.
    The hose of the brakebooster needs to be longer (+/- 20/30cm).
    you can use your original 4 cilinder radiator, but what i dont understand is that some 4 cilinders have very small radiators, mine was big.

    Hope i've helped too a lil bit, i'm sorry 'bout my bad English, i'm Dutch..

    Greetings, And Succes to everybody!
    BMW E36 318i Sedan swaped to M50B25, So a 318i 24v

    Mods: Coilovers, 328i brakes, OEM French M3 Alpina Yellow lights, steelies for now 18"s are getting new paint, Freeflow exhaust with only a Rear silencer, Open Air filter, black roof, chip tuned..
    Up Comming: Stage 2 Turbokit, LED Rearlights (but oem look), custum leather dashboard with E46 centre console, etc.. etc.. etc..

Page 2 of 10 FirstFirst 12345678910 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •