Battery Replacement with Duralast 49-DL (1998 540i)

[jamesdc4]

It may be worth mentioning that there is more to a battery than simply its CCA capacity. while the 94R battery may produce a slightly lower CCA it is a larger battery which has a larger energy capacity so it may have additional benefits over the 49-DL such as extended standby time with the engine not running to support functions such as the recirc heating or the progamable cabin cooling thing etc. these cars have a lot of parasitic draw.

Good point, Jason.
It's been one year and six months since I replaced the OEM with the 49-DL, and I have had no problems so far (knock on wood). I'm also taking into consideration the fact that 99.9% of my driving is short hops in the city of approx. 2-3 miles or less and that a vast majority of that driving is done in a cold climate.

[athanasius2k4]

I think the 94R is the direct replacement and has the same dimensions as the OEM battery, but the 49-DL is the better choice because of the CCAs. However, the 49-DL is slightly smaller in size (the E39 battery compartment has three different anchor holes to accomodate different size batteries). If the flunky at AZ gives you anymore grief, just don't tell him what car it's for. Just go in and say you want to buy the Duralast 49-DL period. If they insist on the make and model of your vehicle, ask them if they want to sell the battery or not (Don't forget to have them test the battery while you watch).

Thank you for the extremely detailed step-by-step post on the 49-DL replacement! I did this 2 mornings ago, in 45 minutes before heading off to work.

Do you ever wonder why—if the original battery in my 2002 525i was a Group 49 battery—BMW (I assume BMW is behind the recommended replacement that shows up in Autozone's (and other's) computer systems) now lists the larger 94R as the direct replacement? Not only is the CCA higher in the 49 (850 to 730), but it's reserve capacity is listed as higher (155 to 140) as well! Bizarre!

[NNY528I]

Thank you for the extremely detailed step-by-step post on the 49-DL replacement! I did this 2 mornings ago, in 45 minutes before heading off to work.

Do you ever wonder why—if the original battery in my 2002 525i was a Group 49 battery—BMW (I assume BMW is behind the recommended replacement that shows up in Autozone's (and other's) computer systems) now lists the larger 94R as the direct replacement? Not only is the CCA higher in the 49 (850 to 730), but it's reserve capacity is listed as higher (155 to 140) as well! Bizarre!

you owned from new and had a BMW labeled 49 battery?

[athanasius2k4]

you owned from new and had a BMW labeled 49 battery?

Yup. The 2002 525i came with the white "Group 49" battery. I've owned it new ... unless the dealership changed it out on me during one of my service stops. In fact, it's identical in CCA to the Duralast 49DL (850). Gotta download the photo of it in my next post. That's ultimately why I went with the 49DL as the replacement.

[240sxguy]

Thanks for the writeup, this made really fast work of a battery swap in the walmart parking lot today! Had the right tools on hand etc..

Evan

[jamesdc4]

Thanks for the writeup, this made really fast work of a battery swap in the walmart parking lot today! Had the right tools on hand etc..

Evan

NP, Evan. I'm glad it helped.

[cnn]

On the same topic, if anyone ever breaks the battery clamp bolt (T-bolt), then BMW WILL try to sell you the whole battery cable for some $350-400 etc.!!!

But there is a better solution, use VW T-bolt:
The VW part PN: 6X0-915-138 ($6 at VW dealer).

Read the thread by "Stormyslaton":
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1541019


Here is what I mean by T-bolt (Yellow Circle):

[jamesdc4]

On the same topic, if anyone ever breaks the battery clamp bolt (T-bolt), then BMW WILL try to sell you the whole battery cable for for some $350-400 etc.!!!

But there is a better solution, use VW T-bolt:
The VW part PN: 6X0-915-138 ($6 at VW dealer).

Read the thread by "Stormyslaton":
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1541019


Here is what I mean by T-bolt:

Wow. That's good to know, Cam.
Thanks, man!

[patrickjoseph]

Earlier in this thread, someone mentioned that if the radio doesn't work after the battery install, you need to disconnect the ground cable for one minute.

Where is this ground cable and can anyone provide a pic of it?

Thanks in advance.

[jamesdc4]

Earlier in this thread, someone mentioned that if the radio doesn't work after the battery install, you need to disconnect the ground cable for one minute.

Where is this ground cable and can anyone provide a pic of it?

Thanks in advance.

Patrick,

I don't recall seeing that post, but the ground cable being referred to is on the battery in the trunk.

[patrickjoseph]

Patrick,

I don't recall seeing that post, but the ground cable being referred to is on the battery in the trunk.

okay. so it's the same as the negative cable. anyway, i swapped the battery and didn't have any problems. also, fyi, there was no need for a memory saver. only thing i lost was the time and date. i just made sure the car went to sleep - waited for the light next to P(ark) went off - and did the swap in 15 minutes or so.

only thing not mentioned in the diy instructions is you should remove the access door to the battery compartment. easy enough to do by popping out the three plastic fasteners that hold it to the floor.

overall, this was a no-brainer to do. thanks everyone.

[Kevin Da Clean1]

jamesdc4,

Sorry to ask this. Where in the world did you buy/find that "settings keeper" unit... ?

I have been looking for years in order to find that exact same unit. But, I have turned up with no luck every time I'm at a store or shopping on-line...

[T444E]

I work at Advance Auto Parts and we sell then. I could mail you one if you need it.

[jamesdc4]

you should remove the access door to the battery compartment. easy enough to do by popping out the three plastic fasteners that hold it to the floor.

I didn't know that was removable. Thanks for the tip.

jamesdc4,

Sorry to ask this. Where in the world did you buy/find that "settings keeper" unit... ?

I have been looking for years in order to find that exact same unit. But, I have turned up with no luck every time I'm at a store or shopping on-line...

I purchased it at AZ as Garrett mentions.

[Kevin Da Clean1]

I work at Advance Auto Parts and we sell then. I could mail you one if you need it.

Thanks Garrett. I may have to buy one from you soon if I can't find them locally over here... !

[yca272002]

Thanks Patrick Joseph on the Battery Installation. I have an E65 and it was very easy prior to reading your instructions. Took me 10-15 mins. Only slight pitfall is the gas port on the battery is on the top near between the positive and negative posts and the tubing provided is just barely long enough to connect to the existing tubing. I had to pull up some of the existing tubing so that the fitting could mate up. Other than that, pulling out the battery and reinstallation was extremely easy.

I purchased the Power Cord to save my settings. It appears it maybe worked, since all the oil change mileage was ok. The only thing is I had to reset my clock.

Good luck to all who will change your own battery.

[rpg]

Thanks James for the write-up.

Quick question - does anyone know where to find this little nut on the BMW parts databases?



I can find everything else I need (the support brace and hex bolt) but not this little securing nut. I can improvise but since I'm ordering from BMW anyway, I might as well get it. As you can see, it's not here:


Battery, empty - BMW parts catalog

[Edgy99]

Nice write up, subscribed.

[Mulepick]

My alarm went off when I disconnected the negative cable. I wasn't using a memory saver and I used the key fob to open the trunk. Is this normal? Will it go off after I unplug the + cable? Will I really have to take it to the dealership to be reset if I don't use a memory saver?

[jamesdc4]

My alarm went off when I disconnected the negative cable. I wasn't using a memory saver and I used the key fob to open the trunk. Is this normal? Will it go off after I unplug the + cable? Will I really have to take it to the dealership to be reset if I don't use a memory saver?

It's normal for the alarm to sound like that and no, you shouldn't have to worry about the memory saver or reprogramming.

[Edgy99]

Go to dealer? Simple thing to reset time and date. E39 isn't like the E36 either, where you needed to re-input your radio code.

[dkarmol]

I went to the Walmart to get the 49-DL, or their 49N, but they had no 49 series batteries at all.
The electronic look-up said that my 2001 530i should get an H-8 series battery, which they were out of.
I noticed the 94R, that was just a little larger than what was in my car (a AAA 48-36, that was smaller than the 94R), so I bought the new 94R, for $109, with the core returned.
It fits perfectly, and test 9 now shows 12.2 with the ignition on, and 13.9 with the engine idling.
From what I read here, those numbers are about right, and indicate the battery and the alternator are OK. Can anyone confirm that for me?

Thanks for all the great information here-- I discovered the alternate holes for the clamp and connected the vent hose to the new battery.

The old battery had not had the vent hose connected-- some knucklehead before me must have installed that battery. Wrong one, and not installed right.

[jamesdc4]

Autozone carries the Duralast 49-DL.

[PhonyMcRingRing]

What a fantastic DIY!! even helped a noobie like myself.


Thanks!!!

[BlackBMWs]

Happy New Year Jamie!

I just replaced my OEM battery with the Duralast, just like your DIY.

I did notice the Vent tube gets a little pinched as it's pretty snug on the sides.

How the battery holding up for you since writing this DIY?

Cheers!