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Thread: Battery Replacement with Duralast 49-DL (1998 540i)

  1. #1
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    Battery Replacement with Duralast 49-DL (1998 540i)

    Tools and Supplies

    - Duralast 49-DL Automotive Battery
    - Battery Vent tube kit
    - 10mm socket or open ended wrench
    - 13mm socket or open ended wrench
    - Memory Saver (optional)
    - Flash Light

    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______
    Time to complete procedure

    - Approx. 30 minutes

    *It's recommended to wait approx. 16 minutes or until the car goes into sleep mode before disconnecting the battery. This allows all modules to shut down and prevent any damage. BF.c member edjack mentions opening the trunk then waiting until all lights turn off (including "Park" light on center console for auto tranny owners) before disconnecting.
    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______

    - Here's the Duralast 49-DL automotive battery and the vent kit that you should be sure to ask for if it isn't included.

    - Here's a NOCO Settings Keeper, generic memory saver I found at Autozone for $5.00.

    - Pull it out of the package, attach the 9 volt battery (the green led will illuminate if the battery is good) and plug it into your cigarette lighter.


    - Open the trunk and pull open the passenger side battery/ fuse compartment.

    - These photos give you an idea of where you are going to be working. You can easily see the battery, positive, negative terminals and the cross brace. The vent tube, however, is not visible at all (it's tucked between the positive post side of the battery and the black protective shield).


    - Take the 10mm socket and loosen/remove the negative cable from the battery post.


    - Tuck the cable and connector up and away from the battery.

    - At this point, remove the cross brace using a 13mm socket.


    - Remove the red protective shield covering the positive terminal of the battery.

    - Use the 10mm socket to loosen/remove the positive cable from the battery.


    - Now is a good time to use the 10mm socket (or philips head screw driver) to loosen and remove the hold down clamp on the negative terminal side of the battery.


    - Here is a pic of the vent tube connector on the positive post side of the BMW battery. I couldn't see it so I pulled the battery out without disconnecting it first. Luckily, it disconnected without breaking. I recommend sliding the battery towards the back of the car to access the vent tube for disconnection.

    - Now it's time to pull the old battery out. There are handles that are stowed stealthily on the top of the BMW battery. They pop out easily.



    - Pull the battery out carefully so as not to damage any of the fuses, wires and connectors that also reside in the compartment.

    - Now the vent tube is quite visible.


    - Open up your vent tube kit. You should have a tube and a connector.

    - Insert the larger side of the connector into the new vent tube.


    - Insert the smaller end of the tube into the car's tube.


    - Now, stow the completed vent tube up and out of the way to make for easier installation of the new battery.

    (continued vvvvv)
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 04-23-2012 at 06:06 PM.

  2. #2
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    Battery Replacement with Duralast 49-DL (1998 540i) *part 2*

    - Once the battery is out, you can see three holes (indicated by red arrows). These holes offer three different anchor points for the hold down clamp. The one on the right side of this photo is the one used for this installation.


    - Slowly lower the Duralast battery into the battery compartment. Leave a little room to work on the positive post side.



    - Pull the vent tube around and connect it to the battery.



    - Pull the protective shield off the positive post side of the battery.


    - Reattach the positive cable and tighten with 10mm socket.



    - Reattach the negative cable and tighten with 10mm socket.



    Using the flash light, thread the hold down clamp bolt into the far right anchor hole.




    - Tighten with a 10mm socket.


    - Reattach the cross brace and use the 13mm socket to tighten nut and bolt.






    - View your handy work and make sure everything is snug and all tools are removed from battery compartment.


    - Take the red, plastic shield from the OE battery positive post and install it onto the new battery.


    - Button everything up.



    - Disconnect the memory saver.


    - Confirm that you have properly installed the battery by checking for power and starting the engine.

    Good luck.

    Last edited by jamesdc4; 01-25-2009 at 04:45 AM.

  3. #3
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    Excellent write-up...you even identified all 3 hold down holes in case the battery is smaller than the original battery!
    (if my grammar, spelling, or sentence structure is screwed up....don't blame me...it's my dang bluetooth keyboard...I try to catch & correct the mistakes...but I may not catch all of them.)

    Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
    1997 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date <<~>> 2006 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date
    (SOLD)
    1999 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 1995 525iT (Alpine White)
    1991 735iL (Schwarz) <<~>> 1985 325e (Bronzit)

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the writeup! Now I know that I'm missing that hold down clamp next to the negative terminal. No wonder my battery moved.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    Excellent write-up...you even identified all 3 hold down holes in case the battery is smaller than the original battery!
    Thanks, Q.
    Quote Originally Posted by ghettochild View Post
    Thanks for the writeup! Now I know that I'm missing that hold down clamp next to the negative terminal. No wonder my battery moved.
    You're welcome.
    cnn originally posted regarding this diagram. I don't know what year his post was specific to, but I went to realoem.com and found this for your year model...part #15.


    It looks pretty much identical to the diagram cnn posted.

  6. #6
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    Very well done. Detailed with excellent photos. Thank you!!!!!
    Last edited by gtxragtop; 01-25-2009 at 07:59 AM.

  7. #7
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    A great, detailed & thorough post!!! Perfect timing too, as I just installed a 49DL last week and did not put part 15 back in because the 49DL is longer than the OEM battery. I never looked to see if there were additional threaded holes to accomodate different size batteries. I am going to put that part back in now. Many thanx!!!!

  8. #8
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    I nominate the OP to do a writeup on 540 cooling system overhaul . Nice writeup - love all the pics. I did this battery replacement about 3 months ago. Don't think I would have done nearly as good a job documenting it if I had thought to.
    Last edited by atl540i; 01-25-2009 at 12:30 PM.
    99 540i/6 - 18" Breyton Visions, LED tail lights, Hella Euro Angel Eyes, ATE Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, K&N filter, CDV-delete, ZHP Weighted Shift. Making life in traffic a little easier...



  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by fudman View Post
    A great, detailed & thorough post!!! Perfect timing too, as I just installed a 49DL last week and did not put part 15 back in because the 49DL is longer than the OEM battery. I never looked to see if there were additional threaded holes to accomodate different size batteries. I am going to put that part back in now. Many thanx!!!!
    I did the same thing. For Duralast 49DL, put the #15 back exactly like realoem picture above, i.e., small end toward battery.

    Note that in this write-up, with the OEM battery the wider part of #15 goes toward battery.

    Eitherway, the #15 simply holds the battery from back and forth motion from accelerating and braking.
    What holds the battery downward is the metal bar on TOP of the battery. If you ever invert your car in an accident, this bar ill prevent the battery from falling down...hehe.....

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnn View Post
    I did the same thing. For Duralast 49DL, put the #15 back exactly like realoem picture above, i.e., small end toward battery.

    Note that in this write-up, with the OEM battery the wider part of #15 goes toward battery.
    I actually was able to get the wider flange side against the battery. Not sure why I have the space, but it fit nicely. I just pushed the battery close against the forward wall. The cable screw doesn't contact the wall but there's a plastic sheet on the forward wall that prevents the positive terminal screw from contacting the forward wall. I kept the vent tube atop the battery to keep it from getting squeezed.

    I doubt this makes any difference, one way or another.

  11. #11
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    Great writeup Jamie.
    I bet it took you 4 or 5 times longer than it should, just to take the pics.
    Anyways, here I salute you - this is my toast to you
    It will go in the DIY hall of fame

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by fudman View Post
    1-I actually was able to get the wider flange side against the battery. Not sure why I have the space, but it fit nicely.

    2- I kept the vent tube atop the battery to keep it from getting squeezed.

    I doubt this makes any difference, one way or another.
    Fudman,

    1- The DIY shows the hold down clamp with the wide side towards the battery. Using the third anchor hole allows for a perfect fit.


    2- Exactly.
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 01-25-2009 at 03:26 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesdc4 View Post
    Fudman,

    1- The DIY shows the hold down clamp with the wide side towards the battery. Using the third anchor hole allows for a perfect fit.


    2- Exactly.
    Copy that. Mine is exactly like your first photo.

    However, in the second photo, I had to modify my positive terminal cover, by drilling a hole in it, to allow my clamp screw bolt to fit under it.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by fudman View Post
    Copy that. Mine is exactly like your first photo.

    However, in the second photo, I had to modify my positive terminal cover, by drilling a hole in it, to allow my clamp screw bolt to fit under it.
    Were you not able to get the clamp down fully onto the positive post? My red shield popped right on.
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 01-26-2009 at 12:56 AM.

  15. #15
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    Nice job James! I'm looking for your shock and strut DIY now! Kidding, but if I don't find one, I'll take pics when I do mine for the touring.

    When I did my battery, I put down a acid pad absorber under the battery, JIC something spills. It never should, but JIC. Also, I see I need to order the brace for the battery Part #5 on RealOEM as mine was missing.

    1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by atl540i View Post
    I nominate the OP to do a writeup on 540 cooling system overhaul . Nice writeup - love all the pics. I did this battery replacement about 3 months ago. Don't think I would have done nearly as good a job documenting it if I had thought to.
    Quote Originally Posted by BlackBMWs View Post
    Nice job James! I'm looking for your shock and strut DIY now! Kidding, but if I don't find one, I'll take pics when I do mine for the touring.
    When I did my battery, I put down a acid pad absorber under the battery, JIC something spills. It never should, but JIC. Also, I see I need to order the brace for the battery Part #5 on RealOEM as mine was missing.
    I'm not due for either of those yet and I hope I don't have to do them for a while. At least not until my, as of yet unborn, son is a toddler.
    Quote Originally Posted by Doru View Post
    Great writeup Jamie.
    I bet it took you 4 or 5 times longer than it should, just to take the pics.
    Anyways, here I salute you - this is my toast to you
    It will go in the DIY hall of fame
    Thanks, Doru.
    It took a little longer to take the pics, but the most time consuming part was figuring out the order of and organizing the photos. Typing in the text took a while, too.
    One thing that made everything just a little harder was how SLOW photobucket's servers were last night. I might have to start looking into another image hosting site.
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 01-25-2009 at 06:01 PM.

  17. #17
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    Nice!!!

    BTW the replacement M5 battery at Autozone is the premium battery but is smaller with a lot less CCA's. I found that quite off. The 49-dl is a beast of a battery slaughters the CCA's of the original.

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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnn View Post
    ...Eitherway, the #15 simply holds the battery from back and forth motion from accelerating and braking.

    What holds the battery downward is the metal bar on TOP of the battery. If you ever invert your car in an accident, this bar ill prevent the battery from falling down...hehe.....
    Cnn...if you turn #15 with the wider section toward the battery (like BMW sent them over from Germany)...not only does it prevent the battery from sliding forward and back...but it prevents it from being able to be pulled upward (hence the name "battery hold down clamp").

    That hold down clamp (#15) is used in multiple BMW applications (see the images from my e38 below when it still had its original battery from the factory) which doesn't have the brace bar across the top...it only has the hold down clamp...and note the direction of the clamp and how the wider side clamps down on the foot/base of the battery which holds it down as well as from sliding forward and back. If the e38 goes shiny side down (flips)...the only thing holding the battery is the hold down clamp and battery cables!

    (E38 battery compartment & hold down: wider side is turned toward the battery and clamps down on the foot/base of the battery)

    -

    Also note that in the diagram for the e39 battery...there are several of the items that are NOT drawn in their correct position:
    • the top brace #5 - is upside down and drawn in the wrong direction
    • the hold down clamp #15 - is not facing the correct direction & is on the wrong side of the battery
    • the cover that none of us seem to have #9 - the groove in the top is also drawn in the wrong direction...it should point from the positive battery cable post toward the rear license plate




    If your battery is tall enough, the brace (#5) will secure it...or one can do as was mentioned in the other thread and use a small block of wood between the battery and the brace...and that can help secure the battery...but I would highly suggest turning the hold down clamp around (#15) so that it clamps down on the foot/base of the battery for extra security.
    (if my grammar, spelling, or sentence structure is screwed up....don't blame me...it's my dang bluetooth keyboard...I try to catch & correct the mistakes...but I may not catch all of them.)

    Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
    1997 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date <<~>> 2006 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date
    (SOLD)
    1999 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 1995 525iT (Alpine White)
    1991 735iL (Schwarz) <<~>> 1985 325e (Bronzit)

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gumbi4u View Post
    Nice!!!

    BTW the replacement M5 battery at Autozone is the premium battery but is smaller with a lot less CCA's. I found that quite off. The 49-dl is a beast of a battery slaughters the CCA's of the original.
    Ken,

    Thanks.
    I saw that, too. The premium gold-duralast had an 8 year warranty and a 3 year free replacement warranty, but the CCAs make the 49-DL the better pick.

    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post

    Also note that in the diagram for the e39 battery...there are several of the items that are NOT drawn in their correct position:
    • the top brace #5 - is upside down and drawn in the wrong direction
    • the hold down clamp #15 - is not facing the correct direction & is on the wrong side of the battery
    • the cover that none of us seem to have #9 - the groove in the top is also drawn in the wrong direction...it should point from the positive battery cable post toward the rear license plate


    That's amazing. That diagram sucks. I'm never using it again.
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 01-25-2009 at 06:40 PM. Reason: Automerge

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesdc4 View Post
    cnn originally posted regarding this diagram. I don't know what year his post was specific to, but I went to realoem.com and found this for your year model...part #15.
    That's perfect, thanks again!

  21. #21
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    Btw why did you feel you had to use a battery settings saver? I remember I changed out my battery twice last year and the settings remained. I changed the battery within 10 mins of course.

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  22. #22
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    Let's take an even closer look at the diagram...

    - The bolt (#6) is upside down.
    - The plastic shield (#7) is positioned on the wrong side.
    - The battery itself (#1) shows the positive and negative posts reversed.
    - The cover that no one has (#9) is not only positioned incorrectly, it is impossible to position the positive post cap properly (no matter how you orient it).
    WOW!


    Quote Originally Posted by Gumbi4u View Post
    Btw why did you feel you had to use a battery settings saver? I remember I changed out my battery twice last year and the settings remained. I changed the battery within 10 mins of course.
    Paranoia.
    Actually, I knew it would take me longer to do the swap because it's my first time and also because I was going to document it. I was also curious to see if the thing works. It may have taken me longer than 40 minutes to change the batt. out, so I guess it works, but I still had to reset the clock and date. Radio settings and seat memory settings were preserved.
    Maybe I need to cut the power completely and see if my alarm problem goes away. Otherwise, it looks like maybe a new EWS module.
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 01-26-2009 at 12:59 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  23. #23
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    did you find that the battery was not as tall as the oem battery and that there's a gap between the crossbrace and the top of the battery?
    2011 WRX Limited w/ Nav, Tach Motor Works & JR Tuned - Stage 2+ ~ 306 awhp 328 ft/lbs @ 19psi
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asharus View Post
    did you find that the battery was not as tall as the oem battery and that there's a gap between the crossbrace and the top of the battery?
    Asharus,

    As per our conversation in this thread...

    Duralast 49DL battery install - Advice please.

    ..., it is not as tall as the OE battery and there is a gap.
    The plastic cover (#9) in the diagram above seems to be an indication that cnn is right about the top support brace's purpose being to secure the battery in the unfortunate event of a roll over hence the slot for the brace.
    I'm not too worried about it though because the hold down clamp seems pretty secure.

  25. #25
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    what will happen if the vent kit isnt utilized? I have interstate in mine that was there when I bought the car. Idk if the used the vent kit or not, hence the dumb question
    (oOO\(|||)(|||)/OOo) /00=[][]=00\

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