Tools and Supplies needed
- 9 liters of BMW LL98, LL01 or LL04 approved engine oil (this includes an extra liter for topping off).
- New filter insert kit.
- 36mm socket.
- Torque wrench.
- 1 gallon ziplock bag.
- Rags or paper towels.
- 8.8 liter Mitivac or comparable fluid evacuator.
Time to complete procedure
- Approx. 30-45 minutes (not including oil disposal).
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______
- Run engine for a few minutes to warm the oil.
- Shut down engine.
- Make sure car is on level ground.
- I chose to purchase a Mitivac fluid evacuator for my oil changes. It's very easy to use and has the capacity required (8.8 liters) for the M62.
- The evacuator comes with several different size plastic hoses and rubber seals. You can experiment to find the right size for your dipstick tube. Once you know what size to use, connect the smaller diameter hose to the main hose.
- Pull out the oil dipstick, wipe it off and place it off to the side on a clean surface.
- Push the end of the smaller diameter hose into the dipstick tube until it hits bottom.
- Pump the handle on the evacuator approx. 15-20 times.
- Use the 36mm socket to loosen the oil filter housing cover for venting (support the housing with your free hand or the mounts may break). Do not remove the cap until the oil has drained from the housing.
- Pull the cover and old filter out of the housing.
- Place the old filter into the ziplock baggy and carefully pull the filter off of the cover (this may take some force).
- Take off the old filter O-ring and discard in the baggy.
- Check the evacuator to see how much oil has been extracted. It's likely you may need to pump the extractor several times during the oil change.
- The Mahle filter O-ring and new crush washer come in a plastic bag.
- Install the new oil filter into the filter housing.
- You will not need the crush washer for this procedure.
- *Although it isn't crucial at this point it's recommended to prime the housing by slowly filling with new oil.*
- Lubricate the new O-ring with new engine oil and install on the oil housing cover. Make sure it is in the proper groove and not in a thread.
- Install the housing cover onto the new filter.
- Hand tighten the filter housing cover.
- Set your torque wrench for 25 Nm (18 ft-lb).
- Torque the cover onto the oil filter housing (support the housing with your hand).
- Pull the evacuator tube out of the dipstick tube wiping excess oil as you go.
- Replace the dipstick and take off the oil fill cap.
- Use a funnel to refill the crankcase with oil. I used Total, Quartz Energy 9000, synthetic 5w-40 (BMW LL01).
- Add about 6 liters. Allow time for the oil to drain into the pan, then check the oil level on the dipstick. Repeat until oil level reaches the top hash mark.
- Put the oil fill cap back on and start the car to circulate the oil up into the oil filter housing.
- Turn the engine off and after waiting for the oil to drain into the pan, check the oil level again topping off if necessary. DO NOT OVERFILL!
- Double check to make sure all hoses and the filter housing are not leaking.
(continued below vvvvv)
Last edited by jamesdc4; 06-13-2013 at 03:08 PM.
- At this point you may want to use a peak scan tool or comparable OBDII reader to reset the Oil Service Indicator lights if applicable.
- Ughhh. I really need to clean the engine compartment and paint the valve covers!!! You can see in previous photos and this photo where coolant sprayed all over when the radiator's upper hose connector broke off.
- I recommend taking the old oil to a recycling center like Autozone right away while the oil is still warm.
- The drain and drain plug are on the top of the evacuator. Here it is in the locked position.
- Oil drain plug unlocked. Getting the drain plug out is probably the hardest part of this DIY!
Please let me know if I have omitted any crucial steps or instructions.
Last edited by jamesdc4; 01-22-2009 at 10:56 PM.
but they have drain plugs for a reason
BUT I love the fact you came up with that idea and that it works.
Wherre did you get the Total oils?
I just changed my oil 1hr ago with Castrol Edge Synthetic 5w30(new oil here in the states approved by BMW)
'02 E39 530i/5sp Topaz Blue/Black Interior - MegaSquirt3x - PTE6262 turbo - E85 fuel - Volk TE37 SL - Custom Porsche Brembo BBK - 600whp @ 22 PSI
'15 E84 X1 35i M Sport Alpine White/Coral Red Interior - H&R Sports & Bilstein B6 - OEM 437m wheels - ETS FMIC - MPI Charge pipe & DME Flash - 3.5" down pipe
in before the valve cover comments
I use an oil extractor for my boat engines, hadn't considered using them for my cars. I usually want to look at the mag plug and look for shavings or debris just so I know if I should panic or not.
Good idea... Nice pics too! I'll try it on my E28 as it's harder to get the front end up. Thanks!
Last edited by BlackBMWs; 01-22-2009 at 09:14 PM.
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
It is on the back of the bottle and it is also on the spec sheet under LL01.
BMW - LL04:
Amsoil 5w-40 European Car Formula
Valvoline Synpower 5-30
Valvoline Synpower 5-40 (pending)
Total Quartz INEO MC3 5w-30 - Liter / 5 Liter / Quart / 5 Quart
Total Quart INEO 504/507 5w-30 - Liter / 5 Liter
Pento High Performance II 5w-40 - Liter / 5 Liter
BMW - LL01:
Mobil 1 0-40
Castrol Syntec 0-30 European
Total Quartz Energy 9000 0W30 - Liter / 5 Liter
Total Quartz Energy 9000 5W40 - Liter / 5 Liter
Pento High Performance 5W-30 Synthetic - Liter / 5 Liter
BMW - LL98:
Liqui Moly Synthoil Premium 5W-40 - 5 Liter
BMW - Motorsport:
Total Quartz Racing 10W50 - Liter / 5 Liter
Castrol TWS 10W60
BMW 5w-30 Oil
Last edited by jamesdc4; 07-01-2013 at 01:01 PM.
I was asking Jack if that new Castrol Edge was officially meeting the bmw spec. It's a new oil, but as far as I know, it's not BMW-approved.
No mention of BMW, but since Jack works at a BMW dealer (if I'm not mistaken), maybe he has some insider information...Exceeds European ACEA: A1/A5, B1/B5; GM 6094M; GM 4718M; Ford WSS M2C929-A and all requirements of ILSAC GF-4 for API Certified Gasoline
Engine Oils and meets Energy Conserving Standards.
Very nice...I'm going to print it out for my wife to follow, it's that clear and complete!
E34 6 CD Changer for sale Cheep...just pay shipping!:
Yeah, oil changes from the top are such a piece of cake on the e39. I tried the same method on my g/f's Jetta (2.0) but wasn't as successful - I wasn't able to get all of the oil out and the filter isn't as conveniently positioned as on the e39 either so I made a bit of a mess on the floor.
Also, forget about oil extraction on the new BMWs - no oil dipstick.
Last edited by quattro PETE; 01-22-2009 at 11:06 PM.
1). PUMP method is awesome.
2). Is your passenger side, cabin air intake loose?
3). Please do a DIY engine detail.
"I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread
This is the ONLY way to do an oil change, IMHO.
Once you go evac . . . you never go back!
What'd the Mityvac cost you? Do you think it is successful at getting all the oil out of the pan? Doing the change from the bottom isn't all that tough, but it seems I always spill a little and its impossible to get the drain plug off without getting it all over your hands, even with surgical gloves on!
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC/"]Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus[/ame]
I've been using the oil extractor from griot garage, of course, on my own curiosity, I sucked up all used engine oil and then unplug the drain plug and not a single drop of oil was spotted in my case, I-6 engine instead of V8 engine.
I guess I've only been underneath of my bimmer once so far
Do you evacuator guys change hoses after every oil change? I've done 2 oil changes with mine and used the ones it came with for both... I was looking to do a third oil change with it this weekend too.
Where do you get your replacement? I heard some mention of the refrigerator section of a home depot type store??
2003 540iA Titanium Silver
Koni FSD/Eibach Prokit
CSL Replica wheels 18"
Intravee II Ipod Interface
OEM M5 Front Bumper/Umnitza M5 Rear
Magnaflow 14815 Exhaust
The refrigerator tubing doesn't stand up well to the hot/warm oil - it collapses and blocks flow, at least in my experience. I got some extra tubing directly from MityVac, IIRC, but really, you can just reuse the old tubing.
FYI, mine's is the more basic 7400 model:
Not sure if it's big enough for the amount of oil in the V8 engine. It's plenty enough for the I6.
I wish I could use this on my wifes car, but unfortunately her oil pan is different, and the pump doesn't get all of the old oil out like on our cars. Her filter isnt as easy to change either. I still need a catch pan under her car when I change her filter.
The hoses are made to last. Even if the oil stays pooled in the hose, it will probably be okay, but I'd recommend what Mr Hyde does. I hang the end of the hose up high enough so that there are no parts of the hose lower than the connecting point for the main hose on top of the evacuator. Then I pump the evac. a few times to clear the hose.