750iL brake upgrade

[Kiyoskia]

I find my stock brakes to be quite sufficient...but I don't weigh as much as a car equipped with an extra battery, 4 extra cylinders, dual-pane glass, wood trim all around, a stitched "leather" dash, center console, and doors.

What were the OEM brake sizes, again?

[danimal669]

Sorry to bump this thread again, but I was curious from Edwin if any other parts are needed (or recommended) to pull off this upgrade? I already ordered the larger rotors and brackets with new OEM pads from Tischer (and they shipped today!).

Anything else I should change while I'm in there working for good measure? Opinions? Thanks!

[weaksauce]

i just looked up the part numbers and the 750iL and 750iLP have different part numbers for the caliper, but use the same brake pads. I wanted to do this upgrade as well, but i wanted to make sure the stock 750iL calipers will work with the protection brakets and rotors. if the calipers fit, why do they have a different part number?

[danimal669]

if the calipers fit, why do they have a different part number?

That's a good question. When I get my stuff from UPS I'll update this thread with info to let you know.

I read somewhere (e38 I think) that when changing brakes you should do all 4 at the same time. Is that what's common practice? My local dealer suggested the fronts only based on the results from my inspection II. Wouldn't they want to do all 4 and get more money; why didnt they suggest it if its the rule of thumb? Just curious...

[Nyc Dito]

That's a good question. When I get my stuff from UPS I'll update this thread with info to let you know.

I read somewhere (e38 I think) that when changing brakes you should do all 4 at the same time. Is that what's common practice? My local dealer suggested the fronts only based on the results from my inspection II. Wouldn't they want to do all 4 and get more money; why didnt they suggest it if its the rule of thumb? Just curious...

its NOT a rule of thumb...
just do the brakes in pairs...either front or back..NEVER 'shave' rotors, always replace them...and make sure to lube the back of the pads...

[TxDarth]

Here we go again - I did not see sticky tires listed in the parts, so you did not stop nay faster/shorter - maybe more often without brake fade..More panic stops!

If your stock brakes engage the ABS - that's it! You cannot get any faster without changing tires.

[das borgen]

Here we go again - I did not see sticky tires listed in the parts, so you did not stop nay faster/shorter - maybe more often without brake fade..More panic stops!

If your stock brakes engage the ABS - that's it! You cannot get any faster without changing tires.

I'm glad somebody else here understands that

[reckless7]

regular 750 setup will work with 16's.

the protection model setup would require 18's minimum

I wanted to double confirm this as I am due for brakes and would do this upgrade if they work with 16's.

[billh]

I'm glad somebody else here understands that

Unnerstands whut

[das borgen]

Unnerstands whut

you're an engineer... you know this

[TxDarth]

you're an engineer... you know this

AS the song says, "I am not as good as I once was but I am as good once as I ever was......"

The only thing you gain with the larger calipers and rotors is heat dissipation...which will give you more addition stops. If you are not going to track your car or run up and down mountains all day - I think you are wasting money.. It will look nice but will NOT stop faster without changing to too wider or stickier tires, you need more contract with the road and be able to grab better.

[M I C H A E L]

wish i knew about this upgrade before i bought new rotors and pads..

[danimal669]

its NOT a rule of thumb...
just do the brakes in pairs...either front or back..NEVER 'shave' rotors, always replace them...and make sure to lube the back of the pads...

Good info. Thanks NYC.

It will look nice but will NOT stop faster without changing to too wider or stickier tires, you need more contract with the road and be able to grab better.

Thanks darth. I'm Not trying to stop faster or thinking I would with ilp brakes. Just need new brakes and wanted something different. This made better sense to me than aftermarket big brake setup. Keep it oem. Thanks for the help everyone

[TxDarth]

Thanks darth. I'm Not trying to stop faster or thinking I would with ilp brakes. Just need new brakes and wanted something different. This made better sense to me than aftermarket big brake setup. Keep it oem. Thanks for the help everyone

That is exactly my point - why NEW brakes at all. I can see replacing pads when worn, even rotors - only when grooved badly. I agree don't turn rotors, I don't even touch them unless they are grooved as I said - just install new pads and seat them normally according the pad manufacturers recommendations. Some say not to even bed them - drive normally.

The main thing is to make sure your calipers are working properly, no frozen pistons or rust that might prohibit their movement. Then lube lightly to prevent squealing and then enjoy. BBK's are just for looks unless you are tracking or running up and down the mountains. Same with drilled or slotted rotors - they look good but they actually dissipate less heat than the solid versions. At one time they were done to vent/expel gasses from the older compound pads - this is no longer required with the newer compounds.

[mattwa]

The original reason for larger wheels was to accomodate larger brakes. Still the only good reason for them. All else is looks unless you go to the track regularly or drive very fast on mountain roads a lot. So if you can justify larger wheels, you can justify larger brakes.

Slotting was to expel gasses, keep the pads from "floating" on superheated vapors instead of actually grabbing the rotors. And it isn't needed any more. Cross drilling was intended to save weight (unsprung weight to be exact, and yeah racers worry about a couple of ounces), and it does, but again unnecessary in a street car.

[e30luv318i]

I have the 750 brakes up front and i noticed a big difference over the stock 740...lots of great info in here

[weaksauce]

only reason i want them is because the original 740 brakes look too small under my 19" wheels.

so yes its cosmetic, but what else do i have to spend money on, right?

[e30luv318i]

heres an older pic of them with my mpars

[reckless7]

That's a good question. When I get my stuff from UPS I'll update this thread with info to let you know.

I read somewhere (e38 I think) that when changing brakes you should do all 4 at the same time. Is that what's common practice? My local dealer suggested the fronts only based on the results from my inspection II. Wouldn't they want to do all 4 and get more money; why didnt they suggest it if its the rule of thumb? Just curious...

Does anyone know why there is a different part number for the Protection calipers?

[IcemanBHE]

um....cuz they are beefier?

[reckless7]

Do protection rotors/pads work with standard 750il calipers? (My understanding is that the protection rotors work with stock 750 calipers.) Usually when you have beefier calipers they design the rotors and pads for it. Someone please clarify.

I am due for new brakes soon and since I ordered 18" wheels last week I figure I might as well as upgrade the brakes (if the ride isn't ruined by the 18" wheels). I am debating between these and the BBK kit that sells for $1400. Only thing bugging me about the BBK is that I remember my Brembo's needing to warm up especially on cold winter days before they would properly stop.

[TxDarth]

That is a factor of the pads not the calipers or rotors.

[Reza713]

Edwin your feedback is appreciated in this. I was inspired by this upgrade 3 years ago so I spent the money and did the following but since then it's been a constant battle with spongy pedal the I tail bite is horrible fallow by amazing stop power.

years of same Spongyniess pretty much had the same upgrades.

1995 750il Caliper UPGRADE
OEM Portection Package Rotors 348
OEM Pads
SS LINES
NEW soft lines around ABS module
Rebuilt caliper twise (without & with OEM Gaskets)
New Master cylinder
we bled the system 100s of time and Yes we did hook up the to computer to open the pump by 3 diffrent shop.

So frustrating not sure what else to change or do any more

[CPHES]

So, this is a 95 750iL? Did you replace the soft lines to each caliper? ( is that the SS lines reference? )? When you bleed, do you see any bubbles?, and can you get abs to engage on the road ( not while bleeding ). It sounds like you have air trapped, or getting in somehow.

[Reza713]

Its 2001 740i Sport
calipers are from 1995 750il Rebuilded twise
we bleed with out any issue defintly no bubbles
Braded line instead if softlines(SS)

I'm starting to wonder if the combination of Portection Rotors and 750il calipers are causing the issue since Portection 750 had diffrent caliper part# or perhaps this is the characteristic of a luxury heavy car brake system which in that case I don't recommend it at least not doing with portection rotors.

Its feels like SHIT I have No brake when you step on the pedal and suddenly I have amazing brakes.lol