Considering buying a used E36 M3 - ?'s

[justin.b]

Hello,

After taking a look at prices for E36 M3's, I'm considerign buying one.

I know nothing about these cars. Are certain years more desireable than others? Did the engine output change during the model run? Are there any problems that emerge at certain mileages (like Z32 turbos or timing belts) that I should check to make sure it was completed?

I'm not 100% sure on this purchase yet, just doing some initial research.

Thanks,

-Justin

[John H]

there are about 1 million posts on this, but nonetheless to get you started

'95 was a OBD-I 3.0 engine
96-99 was IBD-II 3.2 engine (more torque)

the biggest major maintenence item is the cooling system. make sure the car has had it replaced if there are more than 60k miles.

check out www.eurospeed.org

- john

[CHAMBMW]

dont you have a 91 240 SX? yeah my cousin has one. he just had his suspension done and planning on gettting an SR20 motor. he's probably going to track the car and drift it like those crazzy JAPS. lol.

yeah E36 M3's are baddass.

95's are usually the cheapest of all. you can find one for at least 13-16

96-99 had the OBDII setup.
95's respond better to bolt on Mods.
easier to work with

[justin.b]

Sorry for the searchable topic. I'm just so unfamiliar that I don;t even know what to search for yet.

Yes, I have a 1991 240SX. That car keeps inching further and further from streetable by the mod. I'm planning to take it to track days and will eventually drop a turbo on the 2.4. That's still a ways off, and I have no real nead for rear seats so the 240 is still acceptable for daily duties right now.

In any case, I will eventually need rear seats. I would like to play a role in the decision instead of getting stuck in an Accord / Taurus / Camry. Of course, it would take a little time to find the right car. So, here I am.

For the cooling system, what exactly would need to be replaced? Fan? Radiator? Water Pump?

Thanks,

-Justin

[justin.b]

Another thing I was considering.

What are the differences chassis-wise between the M3 and 'lesser' 3-series cars? Is the chassis of the M strengthened like the Type-R Integra compared to the GSR and down?

It's just possible that I will end up with a car approaching 10 years of age. That means (hooray!) I get to replace a lot of stuff. I would likely have to do this on an M or other 3 series of similar age. If there aren't dramatic chassis differences, and I have to buy a lot of new componenets anyway, it may make more sense to buy a cheaper car if I need to spend the money on suspension mods.

Is it possible that a $9000 318 + $5000 in suspension and tires would outhandle a $16000 95 M3 still riding on original suspension?

I have also seen someone mention a 318 with a 3.2 swap. Are M3 drivelines readily available for purchase?

It's probably not worth the work, and to upgrade a car all around to M3 specs (if it's even possible) would cost well in excess of an M3 of similar age and condition.

Feel free to dope slap me,

-Justin

[MrBoss]

E36 M3s are also known for RSM failure(rear shock mounts).

RTABs(rear trailing arm bushings) going bad around 60-70K miles.

Mentioned above, if you decide to get a 95, make sure the plastic water pump is replaced with the metal one which will prevent your car from overheating. Make sure the thermostat is good(I'd replace it with an aluminum one so you don't have to worry about it much). Thermostat housing should also be checked for cracks and such(I'd also get an aluminum housing to set your worries away).

Shocks...make sure they're not the OEM Boge ones which are complete crap. Bilsteins and Konis are options.

Radiator leaks...usually will be evident if you test drive the car for some miles.

People go with 95s for modification purposes. Others like the 96+ because they're more modern and offer more comfort, cupholders, traction control etc.

Any year would be fine if it's in the good condition...and like I said, if you plan to mod it to hell, consider the OBDI 95. Good luck with your search.

[DSK M3/4]

here are a couple of good places for basic information:
http://www.eurospeed.org/e36m3faq.pdf

http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq.php

the '95 was the first year for the E36 M3 in the US, and it came with the 3.0L OBD I engine. the '96-'99 M3 came with the 3.2L OBD II engine. both made 240hp, but the 3.2L is a little torquier (is that a word?). however, the OBD II electronics are more difficult to deal with when modifying the car. that is why the OBD I cars, even with the smaller engines, are preferred for people who do extensive mods. forced induction is when it really is nice to have an OBD I car.

the M3 gets an upgraded suspension and brakes from the other E36 cars.

any car you are thinking about buying should be checked by a good independent mechanic before purchase. it is well worth a couple hundred bucks. any seller who refuses to let a mechanic check the car over before the purchase is wasting your time. don't be afraid to walk away if something doesn't feel right.

things to watch for on the E36 M3:
-plastic water pump ('95 - '97 only?)
-worn rear shock mounts
-worn rear trailing arm bushings
-5th gear issue (stick should rest in the middle position when in neutral; if you engage 5th and then put it back in neutral, see if the stick now rests over to the right)
-worn exhaust hangers
-dash bulging above center vent ('95 only?)
-weak valve spring retainers (early '95 only)
-VANOS rattle
-bad pixels on the on-board computer

btw, if you are interested in doing a swap, your best bet would be to swap in an M3 drivetrain and suspension into a 318ti (since the ti could not be had with anything more than a 4 cylinder here in the states). if you do it with just a regular 318, it would work fine, but the car would not be as desirable when you go to sell it, since you could get a regular M3 without the question marks.