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Thread: Feeler: Open Source OBC Firmware

  1. #776
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    Quote Originally Posted by catatung View Post
    Okay, thanks for checking.. Strangely enough, I get "Timer An" when I GND pin 4. Are there any wires you have connected that I don't? I've noticed I don't have an SS line, but since I am getting communication to the LCD without it I just assumed the SS line is okay left unconnected.
    No, your pinout looks identical to mine. This LCD is only a partial SPI interface, so there is no real "select" line. I wish there was because I wasn't able to share this LCD with the SPI bus in my final design; I ended up driving the lines bit-by-bit manually in software.

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  2. #777
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    I am sad that this is for e36 only, but still very impressed! Good work!
    e30 84 340i m6x powered.
    e34 89 535i 5speed - current DD
    e24 89 635csi - maybe a DD?

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  3. #778
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    84318i, it doesn't have to be! With a little fabrication you can probably get it in your dash.. From that point it's just finding wires and modifying software. A lot of the sensors from the E36 to your car probably share similar resistance/voltage values that represent the status of the sensor, any differences could be compensated with the software. Probably not something you'd be able to do overnight but it's definitely do-able!

    No, your pinout looks identical to mine. This LCD is only a partial SPI interface, so there is no real "select" line. I wish there was because I wasn't able to share this LCD with the SPI bus in my final design; I ended up driving the lines bit-by-bit manually in software.
    That's slightly disappointing, because all I can get if I ground pin 4 is "Timer an" indented about 5 spaces. Also I find if I put the 0x08 (or even 0x09) as the 25th byte I get strange pixels added on each text digit. If I write a 0x20 I'm good, everything looks like it should. I'm beginning to think something is broken on my LCD unit :/
    Last edited by catatung; 03-30-2011 at 01:14 AM.

  4. #779
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    Something interesting I just noticed, back on page 18, post #449, Mefis posted this:

    I reported 2 pages ago that i pulled pin4 down and somehow got "stock" messages such as "CHECK OWNER MANUAL" in various languages. Pulling pin4 up i got normal operating conditions.

    I like your TI chip, it is MOSFET and perfect for replacing some devices, but the minimum VCC is 4.5V (designed for 5V). I'll try to find a 3.3V version from TI.

    Sounds like he was experiencing what I am experiencing now. Do you know if he ever identified what was causing pin 4 to be required pulled up? Maybe Mefis can chime in here if he sees this...

  5. #780
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    Quote Originally Posted by catatung View Post
    Something interesting I just noticed, back on page 18, post #449, Mefis posted this:




    Sounds like he was experiencing what I am experiencing now. Do you know if he ever identified what was causing pin 4 to be required pulled up? Maybe Mefis can chime in here if he sees this...
    You know what? I bet pulling this one way or the other selects the behavior of the LCD... Maybe you can clock data in normally with it either way, but if you send certain SPI values you can also select the "canned" messages. I'll do some experimenting today to see if I can get the same behavior.

    1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
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  6. #781
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    Quote Originally Posted by catatung View Post

    I'm looking at a Rigol DS1052E oscilloscope. I'm hoping I can get it for 175-200. I really should have one if I am going to be doing this kind of work. Then at least I can confirm the correct waveform and frequency of the 555 timer output. What do you use? Do you have any suggestions or recommendations?
    catatung, are you still looking for a scope? I have 2 at my work that are just collecting dust, I can send you pics and model numbers. I have yet to be able to donate to openobc , and what you guys are doing are way past my skill level, but still I would like to help in any way that I can. We could work something out as I would not want any type of cash for it
    Last edited by mjrgoodvibes; 03-30-2011 at 04:18 PM.

  7. #782
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    You know what? I bet pulling this one way or the other selects the behavior of the LCD... Maybe you can clock data in normally with it either way, but if you send certain SPI values you can also select the "canned" messages. I'll do some experimenting today to see if I can get the same behavior.
    That sounds like a possibility.. Let me know if you find anything interesting, and let me know if you want me to try anything specific on my end with my LCD. One thing I particularly remember is that I was able to write any length of data to the line (without filling the 28 byte buffer) and got a result on the screen when commanding the display to refresh and I remember you telling me you seemed to recall you had to fill the 28 byte buffer for the LCD to "accept" the data and actually do the refresh -- this could be a difference between the two modes since I've had mine at +5v and you've had yours at GND.

    Also, this is a far far shot, but possibly this is a "write enable" pin? Maybe the pre-set messages can be stored/edited, and a flag could be set (whether it is accessible via pin 4 @ GND or not) --
    This would explain why certain additional messages can be accessed only in this mode, because in order to write/modify/select a message you'd have to be able to access it first. We never were able to get a datasheet on those 2 IC's right? So there _could_ be flash memory inside. I would expect it to be an external chip, but seeing as BMW obviously paired up with the manufacturer to create this custom IC, it would make sense. Either it's a BMW-specific IC or the IC has the ability to store/edit/change messages and they provide these chips to various manufacturers (Ford, BMW, Audi, etc.) for their system and then the car manufacturer can, with some sort of programming procedure, customize the messages and what codes trigger them. This is a long shot, but just something that came across my mind, and I like to take some time to think outside of the box when trying to figure something out.

    catatung, are you still looking for a scope? I have 2 at my work that are just collecting dust, I can send you pics and model numbers. I have yet to be able to donate to openobc , and what you guys are doing are way past my skill level, but still I would like to help in any way that I can. We could work something out as I would not want any type of cash for it
    Goodvibes, that would be incredibly awesome! I'm still looking for a scope, and the guy on Craigslist hasn't gotten back to me in two days so i'm not so sure that will pull through. The upside is that he is in NY and I really didn't want to drive into NY anyway (I'm in New Jersey) but for the good deal on that scope i was willing to do it.

    Send me the model numbers if you could, I have nothing at all right now so i'm pretty sure I could make use of anything you have if it works.. I would want to at least pay for shipping (as long as you aren't located in Iceland or some faraway place!) and send you a gift card to someplace so you can have a few beers on me


    ^^ I just saw you're from Wisconsin. I know some guys up there in Appleton, used to have a band called Antifreeze, then "The Starrs" now it's "Durty 30" - They play at local places in Appleton -- Maybe you've heard of them?
    Last edited by catatung; 03-30-2011 at 11:08 PM.

  8. #783
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    Quote Originally Posted by catatung View Post
    TGoodvibes, that would be incredibly awesome! I'm still looking for a scope, and the guy on Craigslist hasn't gotten back to me in two days so i'm not so sure that will pull through. The upside is that he is in NY and I really didn't want to drive into NY anyway (I'm in New Jersey) but for the good deal on that scope i was willing to do it.

    Send me the model numbers if you could, I have nothing at all right now so i'm pretty sure I could make use of anything you have if it works.. I would want to at least pay for shipping (as long as you aren't located in Iceland or some faraway place!) and send you a gift card to someplace so you can have a few beers on me


    ^^ I just saw you're from Wisconsin. I know some guys up there in Appleton, used to have a band called Antifreeze, then "The Starrs" now it's "Durty 30" - They play at local places in Appleton -- Maybe you've heard of them?
    One is a Tektronix 465m and the other is a Leader 8020 20MHz. They are older but hopefully you can make use with one until you get a new one. Just let me know, I can ship it out as early as tomorrow. Again, this is a donation and I expect nothing for it, just keep up the amazingly great work!! Picture follows I hope.....
    scopesBoth.jpg

    I actually seen them when they were The Starrs, didnt know they changed their band name, I thought they were pretty good, Ill have to keep my eyes out for them. I used to work with a drummer who plays a lot of clubs here, and still go and see him play.

  9. #784
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    Update on hardware sourcing:

    JoyLove got some X1070/1071 connectors from RS in the UK. Looks like we have a match! This will allow me to build boards without having to unsolder the connectors from existing OBCs.



    and



    Only problem, the X1071 is surface mount. Not terrible but it would require reworking my boards slightly to accept this footprint:


    1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
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  10. #785
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    JoyLove got some X1070/1071 connectors from RS in the UK. Looks like we have a match! This will allow me to build boards without having to unsolder the connectors from existing OBCs.
    That's great news! That will make things easier, and is good you can continue use of the nice connectors, I really like the lock-latch mechanism they have on the connetors.


    Only problem, the X1071 is surface mount. Not terrible but it would require reworking my boards slightly to accept this footprint:
    Hmm that is a bit different, have you tried pulling on the pins, maybe they would be okay if you straightened them out and pushed them through a hole? Or are they too wide in their flatness to fit through a regular through-hole?


    One is a Tektronix 465m and the other is a Leader 8020 20MHz. They are older but hopefully you can make use with one until you get a new one. Just let me know, I can ship it out as early as tomorrow. Again, this is a donation and I expect nothing for it, just keep up the amazingly great work!! Picture follows I hope.....
    wow, well they both look nice, it's hard to choose.. From the specs it looks like the Tektronix has more capability so if i had to choose I would have to go with that one.. Unless one has issues and the other doesn't -- Have you been able to test them, do they both work?

    Thanks again, this is truely an awesome thing, I've come across oscilloscopes before but never really had the need for one, it makes me wish now i took an opportunity i had in the past to get one. Now I think i've finally hit on a type of project where one will definitely come in handy!

    I actually seen them when they were The Starrs, didnt know they changed their band name, I thought they were pretty good, Ill have to keep my eyes out for them. I used to work with a drummer who plays a lot of clubs here, and still go and see him play.
    Wow that's cool, who is the drummer, what band does he play? I'll see if my friends from Appleton know him. They actually self-financed a tour and played a show here in NJ and spent the night, and they had a gasoline leak in their van where it was leaking on the driveshaft and flinging fuel all over the muffler system (read: HEAT! not good!!) -- So all of the car parts places were closed and we couldn't get parts in time before they had to leave for their next show a couple of states away so I rigged up a funnel to catch the fuel above the driveshaft and hosed it so it would drip out somewhere else... It wasn't really a fix, just a mod, but at least there was less of a fire hazard!

  11. #786
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    Quote Originally Posted by catatung View Post
    wow, well they both look nice, it's hard to choose.. From the specs it looks like the Tektronix has more capability so if i had to choose I would have to go with that one.. Unless one has issues and the other doesn't -- Have you been able to test them, do they both work?

    Thanks again, this is truely an awesome thing, I've come across oscilloscopes before but never really had the need for one, it makes me wish now i took an opportunity i had in the past to get one. Now I think i've finally hit on a type of project where one will definitely come in handy!



    Wow that's cool, who is the drummer, what band does he play? I'll see if my friends from Appleton know him. They actually self-financed a tour and played a show here in NJ and spent the night, and they had a gasoline leak in their van where it was leaking on the driveshaft and flinging fuel all over the muffler system (read: HEAT! not good!!) -- So all of the car parts places were closed and we couldn't get parts in time before they had to leave for their next show a couple of states away so I rigged up a funnel to catch the fuel above the driveshaft and hosed it so it would drip out somewhere else... It wasn't really a fix, just a mod, but at least there was less of a fire hazard!
    Ok, first, I have no idea what i am doing with these things, both power on, I can get the "dot" to move across the screen on the Leader after playing with some buttons. The Tektronix, it also powers on, but I cannot get the "dot" to move across the screen, but if I hit the "locate" button it does show up. So what I was thinking is that I will send you the Tektronix first since it seems to have more options, and if you cant get it to work, I will send the Leader with return postage paid so you can send the Tektronix back to me. If that sounds good, pm me with your address.


    HAHAHA using a funnel to catch the gas for a "less of a fire hazard", sadly i get it as I had to rig stuff up like this in the past, just not with the e36, LOL.
    His current band's name is "A Dog Named Sex" he left the last band cause they were younger and all they wanted to do is play clubs and make it big, he had a family and a good job so he left to join this band, which is just a bunch of guys just out to have some fun.

  12. #787
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    Ok, first, I have no idea what i am doing with these things, both power on, I can get the "dot" to move across the screen on the Leader after playing with some buttons. The Tektronix, it also powers on, but I cannot get the "dot" to move across the screen, but if I hit the "locate" button it does show up. So what I was thinking is that I will send you the Tektronix first since it seems to have more options, and if you cant get it to work, I will send the Leader with return postage paid so you can send the Tektronix back to me. If that sounds good, pm me with your address.
    That sounds great, thank you so much, I will send you a PM.


    HAHAHA using a funnel to catch the gas for a "less of a fire hazard", sadly i get it as I had to rig stuff up like this in the past, just not with the e36, LOL.
    His current band's name is "A Dog Named Sex" he left the last band cause they were younger and all they wanted to do is play clubs and make it big, he had a family and a good job so he left to join this band, which is just a bunch of guys just out to have some fun.
    There was a band called Mest that I really really liked growing up and when I'd see them in concert there was just a feeling you could get and you can tell that the guys on the stage are up there doing what they're doing because they love to do it -- other bands, even ones that sound good, i don't enjoy their shows as much because that feeling is not always there. as confirmation, i heard Tony Lovato (the singer) in an interview and he said some things that were dead on and so righteous, along the lines of how much he loves music and what it means to him -- clearly not just an intention to get money, though it may be his meal ticket you can tell he really loves music and getting creative with it and i think when you're doing something because you love to do what you're doing it comes out 10x better than it ever could no matter how hard you try if you were doing it for some secondary motive.

    I don't want to get off topic for too long but i just wanted to put that out there. I'll send you a PM about the scopes, thanks a million, i found a link to the manual for that model, if you have the time and want to try and perform a test here's the link:

    http://homepage.mac.com/swannman/Tek...ors_manual.pdf

    thanks again!

  13. #788
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    Hi m2pc,
    First thanks a lot for your realy good work, and i'm very interesting about this project.
    About X1071 you receive from JoyLove is not the good PN.
    He send you this one :
    http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...duct&R=7183666
    And i think the good part is :
    http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...2806&x=15&y=15

    I will order some part from RS and i will tell you if it is the good part or not !

  14. #789
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    Quote Originally Posted by elpopo View Post
    Hi m2pc,
    First thanks a lot for your realy good work, and i'm very interesting about this project.
    About X1071 you receive from JoyLove is not the good PN.
    He send you this one :
    http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...duct&R=7183666
    And i think the good part is :
    http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...2806&x=15&y=15

    I will order some part from RS and i will tell you if it is the good part or not !
    Good find! I found 6 different 18 way connectors, but not that one. In fact they seem to have added about 16 different connectors there, if you go up one level to the parent. The 76+5, 94 and the 32+8 way stuff is all new, along with some others I hope. Either that or they've been through their catalogue and organised it a bit better.

    Edit in fact there are both codes of 1-967618-1 and 1-967618-2 now. For X1070 M2PC found 718-3792 OR 1-1355154-1 fitted.
    Last edited by Joylove; 04-06-2011 at 04:16 AM.

  15. #790
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    Edit in fact there are both codes of 1-967618-1 and 1-967618-2 now. For X1070 M2PC found 718-3792 OR 1-1355154-1 fitted.
    I'm glad to see you found a fitment. This makes the project much easier to implement; You can essentially build drop-in replacements for the original OBC with no hacking or modification to the car.

    While on the topic of cross-fitment, I've found that dash bulbs (with the installment plastic knub and all) from a 1991 Audi 80 fit in the OBC for the backlighting. If I recall correctly the cluster bulbs from a 1996 Audi A4 had bulbs that fit into the 1991 Audi cluster, so dash bulbs from a 1996-2001 (possibly 2002+ also) would most likely fit also into the OBC for the LCD backlight.
    Last edited by catatung; 04-07-2011 at 11:57 PM.

  16. #791
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    Joylove is sending me a bunch more parts from RS so I can compare them for fitment. In the meantime I'll finish verifying my board layout and hopefully get another batch of mbed-enabled boards ordered next week.

    1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
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  17. #792
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    Quote Originally Posted by catatung View Post
    While on the topic of cross-fitment, I've found that dash bulbs (with the installment plastic knub and all) from a 1991 Audi 80 fit in the OBC for the backlighting. If I recall correctly the cluster bulbs from a 1996 Audi A4 had bulbs that fit into the 1991 Audi cluster, so dash bulbs from a 1996-2001 (possibly 2002+ also) would most likely fit also into the OBC for the LCD backlight.
    Additionally the dash bulbs are BX8.4 (ie:8.4mm) R509TMBK (TMBK is the low profile variant in black)

  18. #793
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    I just found this, and while I doubt it'll be of use for this project this late in the development process, I thought I'd point it out, "just in case."

    The Teensy USB Development Board
    http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/
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    From Page 68 of the 1997 318ti Owners Manual: "Vehicles equipped with ASC+T remain subject to the laws of physics."

  19. #794
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    Hey Joylove and M2PC (and anyone else that might know) --

    On those connectors you sourced that fit the wire harness; Do you know the size of the pins? I just finished making a custom PCB and drilling it out only to find the pins on the connector are bigger than that of components (such as resistors etc) -- I used a 1/32 drill bit to drill all of the holes. I was about to start all over and edit my board but was wondering about those connectors you sourced -- Do you know the size of the pins? I pulled a single pin out entirely from the connector and it seemed a bit too big. I was thinking maybe if one of the connectors you sourced have thin pins like that of a resistor, I would look to buy a set (a black and a white)

    Any thoughts or knowledge?

  20. #795
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    Quote Originally Posted by catatung View Post
    Hey Joylove and M2PC (and anyone else that might know) --

    On those connectors you sourced that fit the wire harness; Do you know the size of the pins? I just finished making a custom PCB and drilling it out only to find the pins on the connector are bigger than that of components (such as resistors etc) -- I used a 1/32 drill bit to drill all of the holes. I was about to start all over and edit my board but was wondering about those connectors you sourced -- Do you know the size of the pins? I pulled a single pin out entirely from the connector and it seemed a bit too big. I was thinking maybe if one of the connectors you sourced have thin pins like that of a resistor, I would look to buy a set (a black and a white)

    Any thoughts or knowledge?
    All the MQS pins are a standard size, there are no thin versions. There are also large flat 'MQS Power' pins for applications like heated seats also.

    You can find the engineering drawings which will define the pin hole drill size on the technical drawings/datasheets, which will be available at RS on the product details page for the MQS socket.

  21. #796
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    Quote Originally Posted by catatung View Post
    Hey Joylove and M2PC (and anyone else that might know) --

    On those connectors you sourced that fit the wire harness; Do you know the size of the pins? I just finished making a custom PCB and drilling it out only to find the pins on the connector are bigger than that of components (such as resistors etc) -- I used a 1/32 drill bit to drill all of the holes. I was about to start all over and edit my board but was wondering about those connectors you sourced -- Do you know the size of the pins? I pulled a single pin out entirely from the connector and it seemed a bit too big. I was thinking maybe if one of the connectors you sourced have thin pins like that of a resistor, I would look to buy a set (a black and a white)

    Any thoughts or knowledge?
    On my PCB layout those pins have a 0.035" hole and they fit perfectly.

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  22. #797
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    On my PCB layout those pins have a 0.035" hole and they fit perfectly.
    Thanks for confirming. I was able to get the connectors in by pressing them in; I jammed them in a bit and then cut the end of a hose clamp off, trimmed it to size so it would drop into the cavity and i used a small dowel and a hammer to tap/push the pins into the hole. They're in there tight but now I can solder them on the backside.

    I've developed a board that brings the wires for LCD and keypad matrix, the 3 LED's within the buttons and backlight to the breakout connectors on the back; Also included in the board is a circuit that generates the 100hz signal that the LCD needs on pin 11. Also current limiting resistors for the button LEDs and backlight are onboard as well. I'll be testing it soon and If anybody wants or needs the EAGLE schematic file for their own project let me know.

  23. #798
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    Excellent! Can we get an image of the PCB? This is a very cool idea nobody has come up with until now.

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  24. #799
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    no
    Excellent! Can we get an image of the PCB? This is a very cool idea nobody has come up with until now.
    Hey sure.. There will be a revision shortly though, I forgot to include a separate power supply for the backlight which won't turn on until it sees about 7.5v but the whole LCD board runs at 5v (actually 6v by spec as you mentioned) -- i think i killed mine by powering the whole thing at 12V, I completely forgot to throw in an LM317 or LM7805 or something to tune down the 12V to about 5v clean power for the LCD. but I'll upload what I have so far, maybe you have some suggestions? Electrical engineering is a new thing to me as of a couple of months ago but I'm learning fast and definitely willing to take advice or suggestions.



    That's the board, it might look a little novice to some of you who have been doing this for any length of time, but it's my first and the first board i've ever produced too and it worked well, I used toner transfer with a shiny magazine page through an LP-120 laminator to copper board and ferric chloride to etch it and a tiny 1/32 drill from a dremel drill set to drill it with a nice drill press. Came out good, and I'm sure my next one will come out better I've already got a thought of onboard jumper to switch the pin 4 (fix @1) to HIGH or LOW.

    Also a couple of notes, the 5 resistors in the center are pulldowns for the common lines on the matrix. PADS 3 4 5 6 7 should be soldered to PADs 8 9 10 11 12 with wires to enable the resistors. It seemed to work okay without pullups but I got more reliability with them. At a second look I'm wondering why the common leads to the resistors are leading to a pin on the LCD cable and not a pin on the breakout connector. My idea was that the pin would lead to a wire so you could put it on +5v to make pullup resistors or GND if you wanted it to be pulldown resistors. But now I have a better idea of just a jumper onboard or a dip sw. The 3 pins on the top left are for the LCD backlight, one for GND and 2 for +v which are tied together because i had no reason to be able to trigger or light up one segment and not the other, though my tests last night showed that I believe +v is the common and the other two wires need GND each, one for clock segment and one for LCD segment. So I've doubled up the +12V wires and not the GND wires which is a mistake. The keypad backlight I believe is wired to always be on if the unit is getting powered, but in a second version a wire could be used to bring in +12V when the dash lights are on to enable the backlight that way, and also a dip sw or jumper could be onboard settable if someone wanted to lock it to always be on if the unit is powered. Also the round pin at the end of each ribbon wire set at the top are just excess, i was having trouble making my own connectors so I just took a part that already existed and modified it and I didn't know how to discard a pin so I just changed it's appearance so it was obvious that it's different and not to be used. PAD1 and PAD2 can be joined with a wire if that connection is required, I forget what it leads to on the LCD ribbon but it was something I didn't need so I left it optional.

    My vision was a board that generated the 100hz signal by itself and had all the necessary wires for LCD control and keypad control available on the breakout connectors. As you can see I am far from finished but thought I would share what I had so far. Not the prettiest board but I think it's not too terrible for a first crack at it

    I'll attach the files as soon as I put them on a free file hosting. Maybe someone with some time might want to better the design before I can get to it. at the moment I'm waiting on a new unit from Ebay to come in the mail. Grrr. My dumb 12V mistake! But I'm sure we've all made that voltage mistake before, it just doesn't always cost us. I think this time it did :/
    Last edited by catatung; 04-16-2011 at 01:07 AM.

  25. #800
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Yorba Linda, CA
    Posts
    3,781
    My Cars
    1999 TiAg M3, 2003 E46M3
    Wow, that looks really good for a breakout board! For the voltage regulator, I'd use the small (TO-92) version of the LM7805 (LM78L05, here: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...M78L05ACZFS-ND)

    You need to consider carefully the power management of the system, unless you plan to only have it working with the car on, in which case it's an easy solution.

    The OEM OBC still allows functions like date and time to be accessed with the car OFF which brings up some pretty challenging power management issues.

    1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
    DDM Smoked Corners | DDM Weighted Shift Knob | K&N CAI | Mishimoto AL Rad w/Zionsville AL Shroud
    Stewart HiPo Water Pump | Samco Hose Kit | 16" SPAL Puller Fan | Viper 5701LE Security
    E36 OBC is now open! Join the effort: BF.C Thread | openOBC Wiki

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