Hi yall. I have been having this problem for a while. In the morning I have to rev car up to about 1500 rpm's and set for a minute, then the car will idle fine. When I pull to the front of my driveway and stop to look for traffic, sometimes it will stall. By the time I get to work (45 minutes), the idle is fine and car will not stall out. I have taken the recommendation from bimmerforums to clean the ICV with brake cleaner and ensure it rotates smoothly. Put back together fine. I suppose though that just because it rotates fine, doesn't mean it electronically works. Any help here would be great. Thanks to all in advance.
camshaft sensors?
are you getting the Service Engine Soon light on?
I'd also check for vacuum leaks.
How many miles are on your ride? The last thing I'd resort to is the VANOS seals. Which are the exact same symptoms you mention but it's the most expensive repair in means of labor.
Mileage I have on the car is 104,000. Yes I have a sevice engine soon light. I put a reader on it and it said fuel system too leam, bank 6 (I think). I really appreciate the help. I am trying to do what I can myself, and have already replaced 1) Fan clutch 2) brakes 3)Maintenance on the ICV 4) two tires (go figure...I have put 40,000 miles on this car since buying last year) 5) Headlights / blinkers.
Additionally I did a search for a VANO's seal at BAVAUTO. Not getting any results. Would this go by a different name. Honestly, I do not know what a VANO's seal is or does, so any additional education would be great.
I did a little more research and founfd this link @ www . beisansystems . com / procedures / vanos procedure.htm
I had to break up the link....It would not let me post for security reasons. Whatever.
Do you think this would work. All of these seals are probably trashed.
I have one additional issue. The airbag warning light will never go out in the car. Any easy fixes on this. I am thinking this also could be a sensor issue? Thanks again for all of the help and any additional.
Dane
Last edited by danewilson77; 01-04-2009 at 12:44 PM.
camshaft sensors.You have 2 of them
I'd also check for vacuum leaks.some time the rubber boot on the intake gets a crack in it.
The cost of the boot is about $11.00 and the cam sensors are about $120.00 for both for the parts.
it is a easy do it your self
The airbag warning light will never go out in the car. =possible seat belt tensioner.
Last edited by bruceb241977; 01-04-2009 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Bruce,
lol about the airbag light. Thanks for the info about the boot and cam shaft sensors. Do you think the vanos issue could be a problem with my car. I have been reading up on it today and it sounds legit. Have you performed this upgrade / fix?
Fuel trim code like what you posted usually means a vacuum leak of some kind. Like said before check the intake air boot for cracks. Feel around the ribs on the boot with the engine running slightly pushing in, if there is a crack or one about to happen you will find it this way.
Not many vacuum lines on that engine. One on the rear from the intake to a switch over valve to the secondary air injection valve on the exhaust manifold, but when this hose fails it sets a secondary air code.
Crankcase vent/cyclone valve will give you fuel trim codes, normal mileage for them to fail. With the engine running at idle try to take off the oil cap, if it is stuck on than the crank case vent is bad. If the engine stalls after the cap comes off than it is bad, normally when you remove the cap the idle will stumble. Real test is a slack tube tester, 5 inches of water or less measures at the oil cap. Also replace all hoses, drains attached to the vent.
Vanos seals will not set a code, DME does not see a problem, but your symptoms point to them being bad. Also mileage is right, seen them bad at much lower mileage.
It is slightly involved repair, not for the faint of heart. Beisans is the only one who makes them, the owner is very helpful.
It sounds like you have two problems.
Camshaft sensors most times sets a code, replace them in pairs if they are original, BMW had a lot of problems with them.
Air bag needs to be scanned, I have replaced seat belt tensioners with connectors (don’t have the BMW sib here), seat occupancy sensors, clock springs, air bags. You really need to scan it before replacing parts.
Hope this is helpful.
Awesome.....thanks for the help. I will let you know how it turns out.
danewilson77, double check your code next time it shows up. i have an '01 325 w/ 107kmi and have had exact same problem. when it's chilly outside i get a very poor idle, sometimes stalls, but runs like a top once it warms up. at 101kmi (same symptoms) my code was 'misfire cylinder 6 with fuel shut off'. changed out #6 ignition coil and no more problems until last month around 107kmi. now code is 'misfire cylinder #5 with fuel cut off'. time for another coil i guess.
one trick is to swap a supposedly faulty coil to another cylinder and see if the CEL code redirects the error to the new cylinder. ie, if it says #6 coil is bad, then swap cylinder #6 coil with the #1 coil and see if the CEL then says #1 coil is bad. good test to make sure you really need a new $80 coil.
Thanks for the heads up. I will definetely check this out. Sounds like you have the same problem, car and mileage.
I will let you know how it turns out.
Dane
You should also check the "idle control valve". It might need a cleaning. It would be easier to try this before messing with the vanos imo. There's a howto on these forums if you search e46 idle control valve
Good luck
Did that (cleaned ICV). No help.....thanks for the help though...
Dane
Okay, everyone be advised of the following history. Bought the car 40k ago and have only changed the oil. I have had the service engine soon code since buying and attributed to a bad sensor somewhere (I was thinking O2 sensor).
Fast forward to yesterday....I changed out the plugs (I believe these were the original ones as they were hammered and said BMW on them) and all codes cleared as well as the service engine soon light. The codes I had were P1347, 1342, 1349, 1345, P0171, and P0174. While I was changing out my plugs I started poking around the intake again, a little more, and found a thumb sized hole in the second intake hose (near where it connect to the motor) on the smaller hose (I think this may go to your ICV?) Anyway it was on the back side of the hose and missed it when I cleaned my ICV.
The car idles and drives as it should now. I believe the P0174, and P0171 codes were cleared by fixing the intake leak (I had to use duct tape...which I admit looks pretty ghetto, but will work until I get the new intake), and I believe changing out the plugs cleared the rest of the misfire codes.
Thanks to all for their help. My next project will be wheel bearings and rotors. Does anyone know if the super duper airflow kits really help that much. Just looking for advice.
Dane
Last edited by danewilson77; 04-22-2010 at 10:08 AM.
I remember the good ole days where Dane had less posts than me
Are you still wondering about the super duper airflow kits?
-///Mike ///Michael ///Mikey
pwn noobs /thread
LOL....no. That's hilarious.....wondering is gone. My innocence has been stolen from me....thanks to Casey, Nathan, Jason, Rey, SB (kinda), slvrXI, pureco, and many of the others that have helped me out over the past year. You guys are awesome!!!!
Hello all I own a 2001 325i when I accelerate the idle bounces up and down also does this between shifts. Another problem is my dash light for the back turn signals are on but the turn signals work fine, and my airbag light is on? I’ve replaced the valve cover gasket, the oil filter housing gasket and the spark plugs not sure what these issues could be from, any help is much appreciated!
Start a new thread. Makes it easier for folks.
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