Getho style fix.
It means I have to move my seat back one inch... Hope the picture gets attached !
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Last edited by Franky goes; 05-26-2013 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Picture did not attach
Sorry for the revive here but I'm having the same issue as well so I thank you guys for your time figuring out a solution years ago. I'm only curious since I just put a new oem booster and master with new everything else, has anyone actually figured why some E36s do this and others don't? I'm fully prepared to go boosterless but as a tech I'm just stumped as to the why this is an issue and don't want to go boosterless to still have the same issue..
I had that issue on my 1998 328i. Went unboosted. Even tried different masters, different locations and pedal ratios. Ultimately went back to boosted (M3 master, stock booster, Hawk pads (DTC-60 I think), Zimmerman rotors, brass guides) BUT i switched the fluid to Endless RF-650. Previously I ran everything from stock, to some blue can stuff, to RBF. This was a steetable car, used only on the track, so no matter how much I bled, I couldn't get it right. Switched to the Endless fluid and ran an entire season (16 full track days) without bleeding and a pretty firm pedal. I flipped that car for a 1996 328i fully track prepped car. It came with a slightly soft pedal and a StopTech BBK. Flushed out the fluid, installed a much needed bias valve (car was too light in the rear and locking up) topped it up with Endless and now bleed once a season. Just did a full bleed, new pads and rotors today. In this car there is still a bit of movement at the top, but the brake pedal sits slightly above the throttle when I press it - perfect for heel/toe on track. Never cook the fluid. Both cars also had brake ducts. Hope that insight helps. I swear by that fluid but it isn't cheap.
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