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Thread: a/c compressor with death rattle

  1. #26
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    you need more than a recharge this time.
    compressor probably took a dump.
    going with a salvage yard or ebay unit will save a considerable amount of cash.
    I would replace the dryer and all the hose orings at the same time.

    just did this work two years ago.
    ebay compressor was $80 and came with a 90 warranty.

    Quote Originally Posted by RyansBMW View Post
    Bump:

    For those of you that had the death rattle, did your AC blow hot air as a result? I noticed the metallic sound this morning coming thru the vents when I started up the car. Everything worked fine so I tried to ignore it. When I went out for lunch, the car was only blowing hot air. I just recently (2 weeks ago) had the AC recharged and there were no leaks in the system. Maybe there is a leak now? Does this noise ever come about from low refrigerant in the system? Does this noise have any actually bearing on the functionality of the AC system?

  2. #27
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    I buy used parts and stuff from junk yard all the time, but AC Compressor is one item I never buy used. Too much risks damaging the rest (things such as "Black Death" causing lot of $ damage).

    Brand-new Denso AC Compressor is about $225 on Amazon.
    I wrote a DIY below.

    DIY: 1998 BMW 528i 160K Replacing AC Compressor:
    http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=924320
    Last edited by cnn; 05-15-2017 at 07:11 PM.

  3. #28
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    I'm having my shop take a look at it Friday and we'll see what they say. I thought I came across some threads saying that if the system is too low, the compressor will also make that noise and fill it to the proper level will make it go away. I think I can see the UV dye the shop put in the fluid so here's to hoping it's just a leak somewhere.

    CNN- I was looking at your diy earlier today and will go with a Desno unit if I need a replacement. Are there any desno units that have the proper clutch clearance? When I go to fcpeuro and it brings up the OE desno unit, I will still have to have the shop adjust the clearance?

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  4. #29
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    Ryan,

    Too bad you don't live here, otherwise I can help you.
    It is not difficult as you can see in the DIY link I posted above (BTW, I did it 1 year ago, and so far so good, ice cold).

    Rule of thumb: no matter what compressor you buy, always check the gap and adjust it. Also measure your own PAG oil, don't reply on what is inside the Denso compressor. Buy the Denso and ask the shop to do it for you.

  5. #30
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    Thanks for the tip. I've never messed with the AC system before beyond recharging it so I'm trying to learn it all now. If it's normal to check and adjust the gap, my shop won't have a problem doing it.

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  6. #31
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    Ryan,

    How many miles in your 2003 530i?

    My 1998 528i developed AC compressor noise around 160K miles.
    I think the $255 I spent replacing the AC Compressor is money well-spent simply b/c it prevents "Black Death".

    Google "AC Black Death" and you will know what I mean.

  7. #32
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    217k.

    I think what I will do is have the shop check out the system and make sure there are no other problems while I order the compressor and bring it back to them next week. In the mean time, Ill leave the entire unit off to prevent further damage.

    How long does the replacement take? Trying to estimate how much the shop is going to charge me for labor. It figures that right after I buy a new rifle, this happens.

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  8. #33
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    * 217K is a good time for the factory compressor, mine rattled at 160K.

    * It took me about 2h for the job.

    * One way to save money is to DIY except for vacuum and recharge, so:
    1. Evacuate R134a from system (shop charge is about $50 etc.).
    2. Take the car home and DIY using the DIY I posted above.
    3. Bring the car back for vacuum + refill with R134a (another 30 min shop charge).

  9. #34
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    NOte that the replacement solves the reed rattle issue.
    gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i

    "Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnn View Post
    *
    * One way to save money is to DIY except for vacuum and recharge, so:
    1. Evacuate R134a from system (shop charge is about $50 etc.).
    2. Take the car home and DIY using the DIY I posted above.
    3. Bring the car back for vacuum + refill with R134a (another 30 min shop charge).
    Yes, Exactly this - to the shop for evac & re-charge. I also R&Rd the Dryer and the expansion valve after blowing out the system w/ air. Total parts cost was about $300. I normally don't use the A/C much, but we had to drive to Atlanta, and the whine from the passenger seats would've been deafening. So, 3.5 years now with a Denso compressor from RMEuro or ECS Tuning and all is still kewl.
    Ed CT
    1998 528i
    5-Speed
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    Aubergine Leather

  11. #36
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    I'll think about it. My problem is I don't really have the space or tools to do this.

    My question is when your compressors starting making noise, was the AC blowing hot air? The noise on mine isn't bad but it's the lack of cold air that is the main problem. The AC button on the panel is still activating the compressor because I can feel it kick on, just no cold air.
    Last edited by RyansBMW; 05-17-2017 at 07:28 AM.

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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyansBMW View Post
    I'll think about it. My problem is I don't really have the space or tools to do this.

    My question is when your compressors starting making noise, was the AC blowing hot air? The noise on mine isn't bad but it's the lack of cold air that is the main problem. The AC button on the panel is still activating the compressor because I can feel it kick on, just no cold air. .
    Yes. At about 157k miles, it started the rattling noises. The A/C buttons all indicated that the compressor was on, but it would only blow cold/cool if the engine was revving over, say, 1800 rpm. It eventually just rattled without any cool air. I, too, was wary of the black death event, so I stopped using it until I could change it.
    Ed CT
    1998 528i
    5-Speed
    Aspen Silver
    Aubergine Leather

  13. #38
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    Cool. Mine made noise for about an 1hr but still worked fine but after that, all hot air.

    Is there any difference between these pumps?
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=64526910458

    Does it matter which one of those compressors I get? 64526910458 is carried by FCP and has the lifetime warranty. RMEuro carries 64529616232 which looks to be the more updated one.

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  14. #39
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    IIRC, The compressor you want is DENSO 7SBU16C .
    The old one was the 7SB16C which had the valve reed problem that led to the predator death rattle and ultimately exploding reeds that damaged the AC system.
    gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i

    "Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."

  15. #40
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    I'll check my records to see which part number I bought for the compressor from RMEuro.
    Also, I installed it 5 years ago (not 3.5) so, even longer running than I thought.
    Ed CT
    1998 528i
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  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmak View Post
    IIRC, The compressor you want is DENSO 7SBU16C .
    The old one was the 7SB16C which had the valve reed problem that led to the predator death rattle and ultimately exploding reeds that damaged the AC system.
    Yea unfortunately, websites dont list that model number in the description, and only list the OEM part number for BMW.

    According to RealOEM, this one supercedes all the compressors for the E39 and the one that should be in my car based on production date
    http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/6...FG11-V374.aspx
    Last edited by RyansBMW; 05-19-2017 at 07:35 PM.

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  17. #42
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    Update: Took the car to the shop and they vacuumed out the refrigerant, did a pressure test on the system and found the leak. I was almost out of refrigerant completely which was causing my compressor noise. When the system was full, the noise disappeared. Unfortunately they weren't able to get the new line in today so I'll have to survive until next week to get it fixed.

    So note to everyone who gets the compressor rattle- check your system for leaks first. A system very low on fluid will cause the compressor to rattle. The compressor might not actually be failing.

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  18. #43
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    IF it's the 7SB16C and not the 7SBU16C then it's the valve reeds and sooner or later they will blow.
    gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i

    "Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."

  19. #44
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    No idea. When did BMW make the switch?

    According to realoem, I have the most up to date compressor based on my manufacturing date.
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=64526916232

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  20. #45
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    At 200K+ miles, I'd recommend replacing the compressor as Black Death is an expensive fix.

    If you look at the DIY I posted above, Denso 471-1119 fits many M52, M54 engines, including yours.

    https://www.densoproducts.com/product.aspx?zpid=27688

  21. #46
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    Yes, the Denso 471-1119 / 7SBU16 is the one that I put in 5 years ago. Bot from RMEuro $329
    Ed CT
    1998 528i
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  22. #47
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    Ok so that should be the one in my car already. I think everyone commenting right now has a pre-2000 car With the old style compressor. Mine should have the updated one. With the right amount of Freon, there's no noise and everything works fine. Maybe I'm missing something but I'm not sure why I should replace it if it's working right. After doing a search on here, I haven't come across people replacing this unless its starting to fail (which I don't think I found on any of the '03 production cars

    Edit: some people with an 03 replaced the compressor but that was already after checking the Freon level and making sure everything else was working properly. Multiple people have claimed to experience the same whine when low freon levels but when away after properly filling it back up
    Last edited by RyansBMW; 05-20-2017 at 01:05 PM.

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  23. #48
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    Ryan,

    According to realoem, BMW 64526910458 (= Denso 471-1119) fits all years of E39 with 6-cylinder engines (M52, M54):

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=64_0783


    If you wait until the compressor seizes, it is an expensive fix!
    The fact that you don't see a post of people with 2003 M54 with AC compressor problem does NOT mean people never had problem with it.

    Mine made noise at 160K, so glad I replaced it, it is nice and quiet now.

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