Front Control Arms

[nm530]

I have the front end shimmy and am looking to replace my control arms. My question is if I have to change one set first, would it be best to change the thrust arms or lower control arms? I am not sure I will be able to do both upper and lower at the same time. Thanks

[plik]

There's nothing wrong with changing one set at a time.

The one you would want to replace first is the traction strut aka upper control arm. It's the one that curves and has a big rubber cylinder bushing at the end (it's highlighted in red in the image below).

Although, I recommend looking into getting a set online, buy all the parts at once and save a little money that way. Also, the parts are easier to replace if you take them all out at once. For example, the bolt that goes into the traction strut bushing is blocked by the tie rod ends, so you have to turn the wheels back and forth just to get access to that bolt. It's a lot easier if you just replace the tie rod ends and center link at the same time.

[Edwin NL]

start with red! just get the bushings not the whole arm saves you $$$

[nm530]

Thank you!

[Platinum4Life]

dont forget to get the special BMW tool: 31 2 240

[plik]

I like parts from FCP Groton (be sure to get the Genuine Meyle parts).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E38-740-750-740i-740iL-i-iL-Control-Arms-Kit-Front_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQihZ015QQit emZ250267885179QQtcZphoto

http://search.stores.ebay.com/FCP-Groton_e38_W0QQfciZ14QQfclZ4QQfsnZFCPQ20GrotonQQfs ooZ2QQfsopZ3QQftsZ2QQsaselZ13397707QQsofpZ0

[thefunks67]

How long and how difficult a job is this for a mild DIYer?

-Funk

[Podmore]

start with red! just get the bushings not the whole arm saves you $$$

I respectfully disagree. Chances are if the bushing is shot, the ball joint won't be far behind; furthermore, often as not you end up stuffing the ball joint getting it out so you can remove the thrust arm. Nothing worse than going through all the agony of pulling out the arm, getting a new bush pressed in, replacing the arm then finding that you still have the shimmy because the ball joint is R/S. Then you have to pull the arm out again, remove the new bush and put it in a new arm anyway. My advice, do the thrust arms, LCAs and tie rod ends all at once, get a wheel alignment and you're good to go for another 100K.

[Swordsman]

I haven't heard universally good feedback on FCP Groton and many of the other aftermarket suspension parts makers. Are these parts really reliable, as close to OEM performance as to make no difference? This seems like a lot of work and, even if you do it yourself, you still have to pay for the alignment. I'm wondering how much I save by going aftermarket versus OEM. The links above (for FCP) show a price of $600 for a complete set that is $800 OEM (their numbers, not mine).

In many cases, I'm used to saving 45-65% off parts vs. OEM by going aftermarket. This case is 25%. I'm wondering if it is worth it, especially if there is any concern about quality or fitment.

I've also heard that using the 750iLP tractions stuts (made for the heavier weight of the armored Protection model) may be a worthwhile idea, as they may last longer.

[plik]

I haven't heard universally good feedback on FCP Groton and many of the other aftermarket suspension parts makers. Are these parts really reliable, as close to OEM performance as to make no difference? This seems like a lot of work and, even if you do it yourself, you still have to pay for the alignment. I'm wondering how much I save by going aftermarket versus OEM.

You're right, but once FCP Groton started carrying Meyle brand parts, it solved all problems. Meyle is as good as OEM.

Doing it yourself isn't hard. I've done my own and I'd say it's about as hard as changing the brake pads and rotors.

Although, you do need to know how to use the pickle fork (just hammer it straight in, don't use it like a crowbar), and you need to torque the bolts correctly with a torque wrench. Otherwise it's not a hard DIY job.

[Swordsman]

I wonder why FCP can save you so much more on the front & rear kit than just on the front?

Front Only: $600 FCP versus $800 OEM.

Front & Rear: $700 FCP versus $2000 OEM.

That's a pretty big difference! Maybe the Front & Rear kit is not Meyle.

[plik]

I wonder why FCP can save you so much more on the front & rear kit than just on the front?

Front Only: $600 FCP versus $800 OEM.

Front & Rear: $700 FCP versus $2000 OEM.

That's a pretty big difference! Maybe the Front & Rear kit is not Meyle.

You got it -- not all of the kits they sell are Meyle brand parts.

They didn't use to sell Meyle brand parts at all, and it's the non-Meyle brand parts that gave FCP Groton such a bad reputation in the past, but the Meyle parts they sell are the exact same as from any other store.

[GXPVince]

Would these be good to use?

31 12 1 141NKIT

on
http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp??

[njdjh2o]

I just got the Center link, tie rods and sway bar bushing from them, but how do you know it is Meyle Kit or not. The package that it came in same FPC on the bags.

But the seem at heavy as the OEM, same shape and contour of the tie rods. The ball joint was tight as I couldn't move them with my hands (nice). I will be installing them this weekend and a wheel alignment. I have a wheel alignment machine at my house so everything be done before I drive it.

Keep you posted, it probably wouldn't solve my wobble, but the center rack and sway bar bushing was bad. So I taking care of what I know it bad first then look at the cause for the wobble.

[voodoomelon]

Can i ask how the control arms wear down as such? Obviously the bushings wear down, but how do the arms themselves degrade over time?
Do they weaken at the narrow spots?

[plik]

Can i ask how the control arms wear down as such? Obviously the bushings wear down, but how do the arms themselves degrade over time?
Do they weaken at the narrow spots?

No, it's just the rubber bushings within the arms. The arms themselves are fine.

Now, one reason you don't want to just replace the bushings is there are also ball joints (on the other end) that need to be replaced. The ball joint rubber housing breaks as well, and there's no replacement for that (or re-lubing), the entire arm has to be replaced.

[voodoomelon]

I see, thanks.

[body guard]

I need to replace the right control arm of a bmw 740IL 1998. so far I have loose the end of the control arm close to the engine but the nut close to brake disc there is not enough space to go up and out. Any ideas are fully aceptable.

[TheLadiesMan]

I just had this problem with a friend's car. There's a tool that looks like a two-prong fork. You wedge it inbetween the arm and the bottom of the part that has the hole. Basically, after you shove it in, you hit it with a hammer numerous times HARD.

[body guard]

Hey Sean
Thanks a lot for the tip. I got it done.
Jimmy, Hollywood FL

[jjc034]

Does anyone know if you can just replace the ball joint? My bushing looks fine but ball joint is torn. Would like to not replace whole arm if possible.

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[SwallownAmazon]

I don't believe you can, I think the ball joint "socket" is part of the arm; but you should be able to get the arms without the big rubber mount and swap that over if that's what you want to do...

[jjc034]

I don't believe you can, I think the ball joint "socket" is part of the arm; but you should be able to get the arms without the big rubber mount and swap that over if that's what you want to do...

Bummer that's what I thought.

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[haynes740]

You must have some killer bushings if they last longer than the arm does. LOL


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[jjc034]

You must have some killer bushings if they last longer than the arm does. LOL


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I had to replace upper oil pan gasket and dropped the subframe. When I used the popper the boot must've ripped. Oh well

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