almost desmogged... confused call for help

[deathcow]

OK my 1976 CA emissions car is coming along. I hope it still runs when I am done....

Questions:

(1)
I am left with (2) open vacuum ports on the intake manifold. Plug them?

(2)
Having pulled the black, red, and white electromagnetic valves off the firewall -- what do I do with the retard and advance vacuum ports on the distributor? Currently, they are Tee'd together and go into the carb on the forward-side, about as low as possible on the carb.

(3)
What vacuum lines should remain on a desmog'd car?

(4)
Is timing or carb tuning required after desmogging?

5) I have a couple more vacuum line ports on the carb that the red/white/black vacuum lines went to. Plug them? They are on the passenger side of the carb.

Thanks a million!
Mike

[esty]

I am left with (2) open vacuum ports on the intake manifold. Plug them? yes, plug them


Currently, they are Tee'd together and go into the carb on the forward-side, about as low as possible on the carb. correct


What vacuum lines should remain on a desmog'd car? Distributer


Is timing or carb tuning required after desmogging? you be the judge...it's easy to do by ear

I have a couple more vacuum line ports on the carb that the red/white/black vacuum lines went to. Plug them? plug them

.

[deathcow]

Thanks Esty

[fwardell]

Agree with Esty, but if you kept original exhaust manifold, plug both ends where you removed plumbing. I recall you got the big plug for the intake manifold, right? If you get rough idle, etc., check for vacuum leaks. Although your engine will probably start and run fine, I'd still recommend a full tune-up if you haven't already done it - carb, timing, valve adjustment, and ignition parts. Nothing like an '02 running at its best! Give us a report!

[deathcow]

Are you guys sure the retard/advance ports on the distributor should be tee'd together and tied to the lowest port on the carb?

Since I posted last night I read archived posts on 2002faq and found (various) opinions. Wouldn't the retard and advance tee'd together equal "nothing"? Should the retarded port be capped, and the advance connected to the low carb port?

Any opinion how this will affect cold weather running?

I am loving having stuff OUT of the engine bay. I would like to have the battery in the trunk too. I am not willing to drill into my rear shock towers though, and the thought of touching the carpet is frightening.

I wish I knew how to get the air conditioning "radiator" out of the front, and those giant hoses which run through the firewall.

Found several things missing from the previous owner.... the fuel vapor recovery valve etc... gone.. the fuel filter by the radiator is connected to nothing at all. The air conditioning part which bolts to the engine (compressor?) gone...

Mike of the North

[fwardell]

Mike of the North, good question - you may be right. My distributor has only advance, no retard. On the emissions system diagram for '76 CA cars the advance vacuum hose goes directly to the carb, whereas the retard hose comes off the advance hose via the black valve/relay you removed. I don't have direct experience here, but it seems logical to plug the retard, i.e., why would you want to retard the timing anyway? The expert on these things is "c. d. iesel" on bmw2002faq. Heck, just try it each way.

Ferman of the South

[esty]

after i de-smogged my california 76...i capped the plug on the dizzy and the carb...it runs fine...better than before

[deathcow]

Thanks for the info. OMG I'm over 15 posts... can I post a picture of my Fjord! Hooray for full functionality now I can pester you guys pictographically!

[deathcow]

OK I got everything clamped off today or plugged. Started it up and it ran about the same as before. (Which is real rough and shakey when starting cold.) After it warmed up it seemed to purr like a kitten.

ONE thing... when warming up it did something new.. the idle crept up to 1500 or 1600 on its own... what gives?

[fwardell]

Sounds like the choke. What carb and choke (water, electric or manual) are they? '02 chokes are know to be finicky. My original Solex carb with water choke starts fine but is somewhat rough before fully warm, then runs great. That's why I'm going with a manual choke when I install my Weber 32/36. I'm thinking you need choke cleaning & adjustment. Search the forums and get the Haynes manual.

[deathcow]

OK, I'll take a look at that. It's the original solex with water choke.