i've read that its much easier to remove the front radiator and radiator support bracket and just pull the engine and tranny straight out as one piece, because BMW uses a shit load of Reverse Torx bolts which are hard to get to, and pulling both the engine and tranny out as one piece makes working on it much easier.
Removing the bumper, rad. support etc is the way to go. Rent a hoist and don't screw around with dropping it from the bottom. Pull the engine/trans as a unit too.
Justin
When people fear the government, there is tyranny. When government fears the people, there is liberty.
-Thomas Paine
I'm not sure you could pull it from the bottom. As said above, removing from above with the transmission attached, is not too hard with a hoist. I didn't need to remove the front/bumper for a M42(4cyl), but you probably would need to for the inline 6.
Screw renting a hoist, buy one from harbor freight for $140.
Heres a quick run down.
1. Empty all fluids
2. Disconnect wiring harness from engine or from chasis. Make sure to label properly.
3. Disconnect trans from driveshaft and trans cross brace.
4. Unbolt motor mounts
5. Pull
6. Profit.
u can disconnect the kmember and pull trans from underneath. ive done it before. i prefer removing the front end and just yanking it out though.
any info on harness removal? Can I cut anything? Im parting out a 97 328is and I would like to get the harness out just in case someone needs it for a swap.
I've done it a few times using a 4 post lift.. you'll need an engine support to hook up to the bracket near the vanos solenoid
IMHO it's much easier than using a lift..
(assuming you've taken off the driveshaft, exhaust, radiator, water and AC hoses disconnected etc etc)
1. Remove the transmission crossmember
2. Attach the engine support
3. Lower the car and put an engine trolley under the oil pan
4. Remove the control arm bolts
5. Unbolt the crossmember
6. Disconnect engine harness, basically disconnect the DME, the big round X20 at the fusebox and the power connections, that's all
7. Raise the car slowly, checking to see if you've snagged anything
The engine + trans assembly drops right out of the car with the crossmember.. should not take you more than one hour to do it
Last edited by joon; 08-04-2009 at 10:58 PM.
- Peter Shen -
No one has mentioned disconnecting the fuel lines... Dont cut the harness, most of them are quick disconnects anyway. The coil pack is a quick disconnect and stays with the engine. The fuel injectors have a quick disconnect. I'm not sure about the sensor harness.
- E36 328i black - Steel adjustable rear lower control arms, Bridgestone RE-11
- E46 325ci white
If you can't figure out how to remove engine from e36 on the fly, you might as well not start your project... It is one of the simpliest engines to remove...
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
^ What he said... Though a 2jz in an SC300 is even easier...
Either way from the top or bottom it's easy.
Steering shaft removal is the key to success if you go out the top...
It can be done without it but there is a huge headache involved.
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