One-touch turn signal modification

[mumtaz]

I draw two layout in Sprint Layout.

The first layout based the original stripboard.
LINK: mumtaz.uw.hu/kep_/original_lay.jpg


The second layout based the original, but extended two relays. This relays swap the original negative input to positive. This board I use while the indicator switch used +12V power shared with other components (like high beam switch or others). This board used in My car.
LINK: mumtaz.uw.hu/kep_/extended_lay.jpg

[revtor]

I get an error when I try to send private message, but my email is <removed> .Thank you very much...

Mail sent. Btw, remove your e-mail address from your message - better to avoid spam .

[mzsoti]

Hi,
You are allowed to be implanted in the other side of the PCB side of the drawing or just to make it easier to write the module.
Thank you.
Zsolt

[ATG]

Hi.
Soldered and programmed OTTS module. The module works, but it blinks three times or five times. At any position DIP-switch, four blinks are not included. Is the problem?
Sorry for my English.

[IcemanBHE]

Hello. Welcome to the forum.

[revtor]

Soldered and programmed OTTS module. The module works, but it blinks three times or five times. At any position DIP-switch, four blinks are not included. Is the problem?

If you are also unable to disable the comfort blinking (DIP switch 1 and 2 both set to OFF), you may have a short circuit to ground near pin 16 of the Atmel controller. Check your solder joints!

[ATG]

The problem in the microcontroller. Replaced the microcontroller and all functions work.
Very good module.

Thank you for your reply.

[M3C]

Where do you recommend I should look for a good comfort blinking device for BMW E36 M3.

[Ladislav]

Where do you recommend I should look for a good comfort blinking device for BMW E36 M3.

The M36 forum comes to mind.

[revtor]

Where do you recommend I should look for a good comfort blinking device for BMW E36 M3.

If you are not shy from some soldering and can program the Atmel microcontroller, you could build my OTTS module. Otherwise, look for one of the commercially available modules, like the jalt.de Komfortblinker already mentioned in this thread. It's slightly less advanced, but it's cheap and works just fine.

[M3C]

If you are not shy from some soldering and can program the Atmel microcontroller, you could build my OTTS module. Otherwise, look for one of the commercially available modules, like the jalt.de ComfortBlinker already mentioned in this thread. It's slightly less advanced, but it's cheap and works just fine.

Thanks for providing info...building one myself would be complicated for me, I can do soldering by Atmel microcontroller is higher math.
Less advanced...can you please clarify what options jalts CB is lacking?

[revtor]

Most comfort blinkers, including the jalt.de module and my first version, are time based. The turn lights blink for a preset amount of time. My version 2 and 3 modules use feedback from the flasher relay output. This enables exact blink count and full flash functionality. The disadvantage is a slightly more complex installation (more wires). In addition it offers adjustable comfort mode canceling. For a description, see OTTS module features.

[M3C]

Are you building them or just providing instructions how to do it.

Looking at their website it has 7 wires and can be programmed in different ways.
http://www.jalt.de/files/pdf/BMW%20E36.pdf

Could be I am still missing details as my German is not so good.

[revtor]

I'm just providing instructions.

The jalt.de Komfortblinker is easy to install and its blink time can be programmed without additional tools. The module is put in "learning mode" with a jumper wire and you tell it how long it should blink by holding the turn signal lever. Repeat until satisfied. Blink time can be programmed between 1 and 12 seconds. By default its set to 3 seconds. If you wish to order the Komfortblinker from jalt.de, make sure to specify your make and model of car so you get the correct module for your car.

There may be other comfort blinker modules, but I know the jalt.de Komfortblinker is being used by several E31 owners with great satisfaction.

[M3C]

Got it from Jalt for e36...there are short instructions, 2 wires in from turn signal stalk, 2 wires out to relay and + -.
Where did you mount and cut the wires on the E31, most likely I can do the same way on E36.

Thanks

[revtor]

You can splice, for example, at the turn signal lever switch or at connector X32 on the underside of the steering column... My personal preference is for the turn signal lever switch, despite requiring longer wiring. The wires are soldered to the switch, so you can easily change this and later (if necessary) undo it without leaving traces. To change the wiring at the X32 plug, without cutting the original wiring harness, you need special crimping tools. Of course, if you don't mind cutting the original wiring, you can splice anywhere you want along the path between flasher relay and turn signal lever switch. The E36 turn signal system is pretty much similar to the E31, but always double check with the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM) of your car and production year for the wire colors.

You may refer to my OTTS module article for additional information. It's written for my own module and with the E31 in mind, but it may provide some extra help in installing and wiring the jalt.de module.

[fmm]

Revtor, i got a question:

Why using a P channel MOSFET as a high side driver?

i've just simulated (w/Proteus) the P version and i figured out that the MOSFET's channel remains always close.

I double checked the wiring and everything looks correct.

[revtor]

You probably reversed a component. Have a look at the P version circuit diagram. I will explain the working of the right channel. The left is obviously the same, but drawn upside-down and may be more confusing to understand.

When the microprocessor's output PA0 at pin 13 is low, the base of NPN transistor T2 is low as well. The transistor will not conduct and its collector will be at the same potential as the power supply (12 V). Since P-channel MOSFET T4 has a very high input impedance and T2 does not conduct, there is no voltage drop over resistors R6 and R8 and thus the MOSFET's gate sees 12 V. The MOSFET's source is connected to the COMMON input which is driven by the flasher relay. In very old cars this is some sort of a bimetal relay: by default it's closed (conducting) but once current flows through it the bimetal heats up and opens the relay. After a short moment it's cooled down again and closes the contact again. This repeats as long as there's a load connected. More modern single-pole flasher relays do the same but in a solid state solution. In other words, initially the flasher relay delivers 12 V to the MOSFET source. That means both gate and source are at the same voltage potential, thus Vgs is 0 V - the MOSFET does not conduct and the flasher relay does nothing. OUT_RIGHT remains low and the right turn signals don't blink.

When the microprocessor's output is high, current flows through the base of transistor T2. The transitor conducts and pulls its collector towards ground level. The MOSFET's gate is now 0 V, but its source is still at 12 V (see previous paragraph). That means Vgs is -12 V and thus the P-channel MOSFET conducts. With a conducting MOSFET, OUT_RIGHT follows COMMON and thus the right turn signals blink according to the flasher relay.

PS: Are you sure you need the P version? It's usually only needed in old cars (say 80s and older). Your profile says VW Golf Mk5 which is a rather recent car... I'd be surprised if this car doesn't offer comfort blinking by default or isn't programmable by the dealer to do so. And even if it doesn't it's probably using a dual pole flasher relay.

[fmm]

No, there is nothing reversed, I double checked it. Guess it's something that got to be with the Proteus; I'm, gonna wire the real circuit and see how it goes.

I want the OTTS mod for a MKIV; Actually there's an OEM relay, but it doesn't have the 4 or 5 blinks feature. In the MKIVs there's only 3 inputs:

*Common
*Out_left = In_left
*Out_right = In_right

And the stalk is not wired to ground, buit wired to the Common and straight to the lamps. Here's a diagram for you to see want i mean:

[revtor]

No, there is nothing reversed, I double checked it. Guess it's something that got to be with the Proteus; I'm, gonna wire the real circuit and see how it goes.

Looking at the Mk4 diagram you will need the P version indeed. I see no reason why the circuit shouldn't work - the PP version is basically the same circuit but with COMMON hard-wired to +12V and that one is working just fine in the BMW E31.

[Johnno1]

I don't have a PCB layout. I started development of the updated OTTS module with programmable logic soon after finishing the first version. But I do have high resolution pictures of my own PCB's top and bottom which you can use to build your own version (on prototyping board). If you're interested, send me your e-mail address in a private message and I'll send the pictures your way.

I'm also thinking about an updated version of the v2 OTTS module. This time with a smaller ATtiny24 and using MOSFETs instead of relays. A module that works with both high level and ground level inputs and outputs. But I don't have much time at the moment, so these plans are postphoned till who-knows-when...

Hi Revtor,
Do you still have the photos of the PCB layout for your 'Version 1' module? If you do, I would love if you could send them my way... Thanks and Regards...

[revtor]

Do you still have the photos of the PCB layout for your 'Version 1' module? If you do, I would love if you could send them my way...

Mail sent! PS: Remove the e-mail address from your message unless you are keen on spam .

[Johnno1]

A thousand thankyou's Revtor!

[agg32]

Revtor, thank you for taking the time and effort to publish your OTTS design. I have determined that I need the P version for my car (Nissan 300ZX) and I have a question for you.

Your simple diagram for the P version has the turn signal switch common connected to the flasher relay (as it is in my car) whilst in the wiring diagram it is shown grounded. I just want to be sure that when installing the OTTS module I will need to break the existing common connection to the turn signal switch and ground it as shown?

Many thanks.

[revtor]

Your simple diagram for the P version has the turn signal switch common connected to the flasher relay (as it is in my car) whilst in the wiring diagram it is shown grounded.

The "simple" diagrams are meant to identify your current situation - before any modification. The wiring diagram at the end of the article shows the changes that need to be done to connect the OTTS module. And yes, the switch should be grounded. This allows the switch to be connected directly to the ATTiny controller.