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Thread: ABS/ASC Lights On? DIY, sort of.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Blue Ridge Mountains, NC
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    1999 Z3 Coupe

    ABS/ASC Lights On? DIY, sort of.

    Background:

    My coupe, a 1999 2.8 (Mfg 9/98) is a warm weather maiden, so she sleeps for 4 months of the year. (But she was also a track b*itch for most of her life, driven hard and put away wet). For the past 3 years, during the first week of her annual rebirth, the ABS/ASC lights would come on and stay on for a day or so and then go off for the remainder of the season. This past year was no exception. However, about a month ago while coasting through stop and go traffic, the lights came back on. This time they stayed on for a day and then off for a day and then back on and so on.

    I cleaned the 4 wheel sensors and ran resistance tests on them. They weren't especially dirty and passed comparative resistance testing. When the lights were out, I also went out to my favorite straight and ran operational tests on the ABS system and it worked as designed. My local independent mechanic also read the system codes and then ran static tests on all the systems. All static tests passed. The code stored said the ABS pump was faulty. But both he and I agreed that the code was bogus and that the problem was probably the ABS controller. Cost to replace new around $1000. The part number on the controller in the car is 34.51-1 164 897.

    DIY Solution:

    Being basically cheap and broke, I couldn't easily justify the $1000, so I went looking for alternatives. I came up with a company in Idaho, www.modulemaster.com, that rebuilds ABS and other types of electronic automotive modules. They only wanted $150 plus round trip shipping and gave a 5 year guarantee. I was a little hesitant, but figured $200 was much better than $1000, so what the hell. And the rebuilt module doesn't have to be recoded to the car like a new one does.

    The ABS controller in my car is the black box attached to the brake distribution box just to the left and below the master cylinder (See the first picture) It is held in place with 4 torx head screws. These require a #6 external torx head socket. (You can get a full set at Sears for $20 or just the 1 for $8)(In a pinch a 4mm socket would work, but don't blame me if you break one of the star legs and can't get the screw off.) The screws are not very tight, but a little on the long side. There's also a wiring junction with a lock. Pull up on the tabs on the top of the wiring junction and this will unlock the connection and permit you to remove the wiring plug. (This was the hardest part.) Once the screws are out and the wiring disconnected, grab hold of the control module and pull straight sideways. It takes some force but doesn't require any tools or prying. Be careful though, most of the connecting face of the module is flat but there is a plastic rod on the top that sticks out a couple of inches. It seems sturdy enough but you wouldn't want to break it. Once its out you get the second picture. The other 2 pictures are of both sides of the module. Pack it up according to the instructions on their website and send it off.

    I sent mine USPS Priority Mail on a Friday from Boston and it was waiting for me when I came home the next Friday. It took 5 minutes to put it back and the lights have been off for the past week. Life is good.

    Total cost $198.00 (including the $20 to Sears for yet another set of specialized sockets ) This does not include the 1/2 hour labor charge for the confirming diagnostics that I probably wouldn't have done, if the car wasn't already scheduled for some maintenance anyhow.

    Notes:

    They do not rebuild all ABS control modules, so before you get all happy about saving some dough. Check out your module and their website. The report on mine said that I had a "cracked joint", which I translated as a broken solder connection. During my research I found that problems with the ABS and Traction Conrol lights are almost always the controller. Rarely do the sensors go bad and if they do the fault usually causes an intermittent light not a constant on. But the first fix is simple and easy, remove and clean the sensors. Also rarely do the pumps go bad. If they do its a problem with the pump motor and you may be back in a SOL situation. ModuleMaster says that you can safely drive the car with the control module removed, (just no ABS or Traction Control) but I didn't need to and was not at all comfortable about exposing all of those shiny metal rods to road dirt.

    Hope this helps save someone else some money for more interesting mod's or upgrades.

    As with all DIY's, this is performed at your own risk with no guarantees on the applicability to your situation. Simply put YMMV. Best of luck.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by daven; 10-19-2008 at 01:00 PM. Reason: bad url
    Blue Ridge Mountains
    1999 2.8 Z3 Coupe
    Arctic Silver

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Lakeland, FL
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    '02 Z3 3.0, '11 X3 28i
    Thanks for the follow-up and am glad that solution worked out for you. One thing -- drop the "s" in the web address (just www.modulemaster.com).

    I started looking into this when you mentioned this in another thread, then, after about 3 weeks with the lights being on, they went off by themselves (before I had a chance to pull the unit and check the make/model) and my ABS/DSC has now been working without issue for 2 weeks. BMW is still, of course, insistent on replacing my module pointing out that "something" is obviously wrong.

    I am betting the issue was mechanical (perhaps a cylinder was gummed up or had some dirt that got knocked loose or something), not with the circuit board so would seem a shame to throw the baby out with the bath water.

    I had noticed the instructions on their web site included bleeding the hydraulics in order to remove the module (which scared me a bit). Didn't appear to be necessary in your case. Anyone know if the removal is as simple in an '02 roadster (just in case my lights come back on for good)?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    CA
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    228i convertible
    Looks like I may have to do this. Anyone have any updates / advice?

    Alpine White 2005 325i

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    1999 Z3 Coupe
    Almost 2 years and still no lights. The only hint/tips that i can think of are

    - Get a mirror and check the part number before you go to the trouble of removing the module. They don't fix all versions.

    - the screws that hold the module on are really long. But are easy to turn.

    - the wiring harness was on tight. Took some effort to get it off.

    - Be careful when you remove the module. The plastic post that sticks out doesn't seem very sturdy.

    As repairs go it was one of the more satisfying and required minimal effort.

    Good luck. I'm sure that you'll do just fine.
    Blue Ridge Mountains
    1999 2.8 Z3 Coupe
    Arctic Silver

  5. #5
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    Thanks for that. Fortunately, the Gods are smiling on me, so I hope I won't have to do it. The light went off and I'm keeping my fingers crossed...

    Alpine White 2005 325i

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    2001 Z3
    My traction control light comes on along with the yellow brake light comes and then it will go off on occasions. It has been off for about 1 week now, I am just waiting for the system to act up again. Changed a few wheel sensors, and tested the electrical current to the sensors everything checks out fine I think it is more then likely the DSC module at this point.
    Last edited by 95325i; 07-03-2010 at 09:58 PM.


    Past: 1995 325i, 1999 328ic, 1997 540i, 2006 330i

  7. #7
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    95325i:

    Definitely check your part number, I don't think an '01 is on their list.
    Blue Ridge Mountains
    1999 2.8 Z3 Coupe
    Arctic Silver

  8. #8
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    99 Z3 2.8 Roady 05 Z71
    Also have an intermediate ABS/ASC light on a 99 2.8. Codes 14, 71 & 72. Cleaned all sensors and replaced the left front sensor. No luck, still have the light on and off intermittently. Off more than on at this point.

    EDIT: Their web site says the master cylinder has to be removed in order to disconnect the module. Were you able to remove it without removing the master cylinder first?
    Last edited by CrazyBobMan; 07-04-2010 at 02:28 PM.
    -Visit Detroit, see America's future.

  9. #9
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    I pretty much ignored their instructions. YMMV

    1. Disconnect the wiring harness
    2. Take out bolts
    3. Slide module straight sideways and off

    Installation is above reversed.

    By removing the module all you are doing is exposing the control rods (?) of the system. The hydraulics of the braking and clutch system are never opened.

    So their instructions must be for earlier and/or different incarnations of the ABS system. They also say that the vehicle may be safely driven without the module installed so the integrity of the braking system shouldn't be compromised in any way by removing the module.
    Blue Ridge Mountains
    1999 2.8 Z3 Coupe
    Arctic Silver

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    E36, E36/8
    More than 1.5 year old thread and I've never seen this. I've had this issue with my car and I even got a thread about this and no one brought me to this thread. Well, my ABS/ASC (or is it DSC?) lights disappeared by themselves and never reappeared so far for months now (knock wood). ABS & Traction Control is functioning well. I almost had the ABS module changed. My indy got it in and dealer's programmer was down and indy could not complete the job. Lights disappeared, everything worked and indy returned the ABS module and I saved myself $1,500 parts & labor. Now, if it ever reappears again, I have a better option, thanks to this thread. Subscribed!

    Current Fleet: '93 BMW 325i, '01 BMW Z3 3.0 Coupe, '99 Porsche 996 Cabriolet, '05 Porsche Cayenne Turbo, '06 Land Rover LR3, '06 Lexus GS300, '97 MB E320
    Sold: '97 BMW Z3 1.9 DASC, '91 BMW 735i, '01 BMW X5, '87 BMW 528e (my 1st BMW), '05 Jeep Wranger Unlimited (LJ)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by daven View Post
    I pretty much ignored their instructions. YMMV

    1. Disconnect the wiring harness
    2. Take out bolts
    3. Slide module straight sideways and off

    Installation is above reversed.

    By removing the module all you are doing is exposing the control rods (?) of the system. The hydraulics of the braking and clutch system are never opened.

    So their instructions must be for earlier and/or different incarnations of the ABS system. They also say that the vehicle may be safely driven without the module installed so the integrity of the braking system shouldn't be compromised in any way by removing the module.
    I looked at mine and was pleased to see I have the Ate BMW module that is repairable for $150.00. And I concur, it looks like it would come right off the pump module without any clearance problem. I am going to run the voltage checks on both front sensors, however I suspect I will be sending in my unit for repair.

    Thanks!!! I wasn't sure what to try next.
    -Visit Detroit, see America's future.

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by daven View Post
    95325i:

    Definitely check your part number, I don't think an '01 is on their list.
    I think i may have found my issue and it was that the fuse for the DSC was not sitting correctly, which may have been causing my voltage irregularity that was causing the issues.


    Past: 1995 325i, 1999 328ic, 1997 540i, 2006 330i

  13. #13
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    228i convertible
    My ABS light came back on and stayed on, so I just did this. Here is my two cents:

    1. It’s a pretty easy job. I’m no mechanic, so I had my brother to help, but any one handy with a wrench can do this alone in under 30 minutes.

    2. It is not necessary to bleed the brakes, simply follow the instructions above:

    - Disconnect the wiring harness
    - Take out bolts
    - Slide module straight sideways and off

    3. As daven said, removing the wiring junction is the trickiest part. At first, we tried doing it by hand, but pulling up the (black triangular plastic) tabs on top of the wiring junction required a little more force than fingers could apply. However using pliers or pincer grips to get some leverage it wiggled up fairly easily. It comes up about an inch, at which point you pull the (grey plastic) wiring plug out towards the left side of the car (where you will be standing). If it is stiff, you can try removing the bolts & sliding the module out to give yourself some wiggle room.

    4. The bolts undo easily, so don’t use too much force, or you can strip their heads. We used a small ¼ inch socket wrench with a #6 external torx head socket.

    5. The module slides out (towards the engine) without any trouble. It’s a little tight space wise, but you don’t need to take off the master cylinder.

    That’s it. After we had finished, I sent the package off to modulemaster per instructions on their web site. It took a week to get it back, during which time I drove the car about a thousand miles without any trouble. The brakes operated normally the whole time. California is dry, so it might be different in a wet climate, but I imagine that covering the electrical parts would take care of it.

    Once the module came back, we re-installed it by reversing the above procedure, which took about 15 minutes. I then started the car and… The ABS / brake warning lights were still on...

    Don’t worry. They went off 30 seconds later once the system had rebooted.

    Thanks daven!
    Last edited by pendragon; 08-19-2010 at 10:49 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

    Alpine White 2005 325i

  14. #14
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    holy thread resurrection!! I am having the same problem I am going to pull my module and inspect it for cracked solder joints. I may just get out the microscopic solder gun tip I have and repair it if I can see a crack.

    Thanks for the tips!!
    2000 M-Coupe "CLWNSHU" 18x8.5/18x10 Rondell 21
    Flipped hats, clear corners, magnaflows, AA HKS Stage 2 SC kit, lots more

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95325i View Post
    I think i may have found my issue and it was that the fuse for the DSC was not sitting correctly, which may have been causing my voltage irregularity that was causing the issues.
    Is that the one that's "under the steering wheel"? I just went to the parking lot and checked, it lists a bunch of fuses for ABS/ASC. I pulled all the ones under the hood and reseated them. Will try the one under the dash this weekend at home.

    If this doesn't help, I may send the module in. I'm tired of these intermitent lights!

    Why be stock?

    www.the-mod-squad.org

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZeeCubed View Post
    If this doesn't help, I may send the module in. I'm tired of these intermitent lights!
    Assuming they used the same DSC modules in all 00 2.3's, None of the repair places will fix them. I sent a pic of mine to two of them and was told they couldnt repair it. Module Master had me send it in to have them look at it, but they couldn't do anything with it either.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLWNSHU View Post
    holy thread resurrection!! I am having the same problem I am going to pull my module and inspect it for cracked solder joints. I may just get out the microscopic solder gun tip I have and repair it if I can see a crack.

    Thanks for the tips!!
    I was going to do this too, but decided the $150 was worth it. I was pleased to find they replaced two components that are high failure rate items. I would hate to pay someone else to put a blob of solder over a hairline board crack.

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Assuming they used the same DSC modules in all 00 2.3's, None of the repair places will fix them. I sent a pic of mine to two of them and was told they couldnt repair it. Module Master had me send it in to have them look at it, but they couldn't do anything with it either.
    Check out these pics. Some are repairable and some aren't.

    http://www.modulemaster.com/en/abs/m...20_bosch57.php
    Last edited by CrazyBobMan; 08-20-2010 at 03:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    -Visit Detroit, see America's future.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyBobMan View Post
    Check out these pics. Some are repairable and some aren't.

    http://www.modulemaster.com/en/abs/m...20_bosch57.php
    Mine wasn't pictured in either the repairable or non-repairable section.

  19. #19
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    1996 BMW Z3
    hi

    i have a 96 z3 1.9L. my ABS light has been on for quite a while. i scanned it, it says that it is 2 faulty abs valves.

    they are hard codes. once you erase them, comes back on immediately.

    would this be a by-product of a faulty module?

    any input?

    thanks in advance

  20. #20
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    I think I still have most of the parts off the ABS system from a 9-98 Mcoupe. If anyone needs them, drop a line. 32K on them in very good shape.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  21. #21
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    I have an intermittent ABS/ASC problem just like described here and have been reading these messages for a couple of months now. I thought that I might cheat and protect the module from heat so I bought a "heat reflecting shield" product which I wrapped around the module and the light actually went out, I thought that I had won, for about three weeks. Then last week when the engine was cold the light came on again and won't go out. So today I took off the wiring harness and the module and sent it off to Module Master. Because of the good information on this board I removed the module in about 10 minutes without any delays. I will put the module back on when it returns and will post my success, I hope. But thanks for the good advice here.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by sailorbox; 09-20-2010 at 11:38 PM.

  22. #22
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    Rebuilt ABS Module 99 Z3

    So I received my rebuilt ATE ASC BMW module from ModuleMaster.com and installed it in less than 15 minutes. AND my ABS/ASC lights went out after a few seconds and my cruise control returned to functioning properly and life is good again.

    So I guess that you can check the sensors if it is easy for you but if you have intermittent lights then most likely it is the Module. I paid $170 including return postage for the repair and I guess that is somewhere between $1,200 to $1,400 less that the dealer would have charged me.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by sailorbox; 10-02-2010 at 10:38 AM. Reason: Photo

  23. #23
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    Diy version

    Co-worker had ABS / ASC lights always on in 99 Z3

    Today I took ATE ASC BMW module out and used dremel to cut box nicely open.
    It was clearly visible that joints to ABS pump were bad.
    After re soldering those and resetting trouble codes ABS and ASC is working nicely.

  24. #24
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    2000 Z3 3.0i
    nice thread!

    my car also got the ABS and ASC lights on all along once i start the car

    checked in several garage with computer, all said is the abs pump/module but not sensors (i forget the error code tho)

    however there were 2 occasions that both lights went off. One is after I change the car suspension and one is after i did wheel alignment. Both lights turned off on the same day after I did the above and the ABS really come back when I test the car, however the next day both lights come on again.

    so does that symptom mean anything to you? A 99%-dead ABS module and resurrect for a short period after the car being manipulated? or still could be sensor problem despite the computer didnt say so?

  25. #25
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    Is the Z3 ABS pump prone to the same wiring failure like the E36 ABS pump?

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...6&postcount=15
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
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