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Thread: ABS/ASC Lights On? DIY, sort of.

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Bridgewater, NJ
    Posts
    754
    My Cars
    1999 Z3 2.8, 2000 328Ci
    Got my module back today. The receipt said "Repaired/replaced damaged components to sensor input amplifier and pump power control circuit. Passive test and sealed module housing". While reinstalling it, I'm concerned that I may have started to strip one of the 4 torx bolts, but they're all on, hand tight, like when I removed the unit. BTW, the #6 Torx socket seemed a little loose on the bolt when I had it out. Are you sure it isn't a #5 socket that's needed? The smallest socket in the set I got from Sears (#6) seemed loose on the bolt.


    The ABS and Traction Control lights went out before I left my complex, and stayed out. Hallelujah! Thanks for the directions!!!


    I also had the CE light on, but the codes were 'Camshaft Sensor, intake cam' and 'Evap Large Leak Detected' and I cleared those codes before heading out. I've been getting the cam sensor alert every once and a while, usually for not downshifting and lugging the engine, and I'm familiar with the other one and re-secured the gas cap.

    Now, I need to get someone to re-weld the rear muffler hanger back onto the body (it's #6). I'd been hearing some sort of metal creaking the last few times I've driven the car, and the noise stopped right before I discovered the hanger had separated from its weld point behind the rear bumper. fun fun fun!
    Last edited by MrAdventure; 07-26-2013 at 02:42 AM.


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  2. #52
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    East Aurora, NY
    Posts
    18
    My Cars
    1999 BMW Z3 Roadster 2.8
    My Z3 was experiencing what everyone above was having with their ABS light on along with the ASC light on. At first it was intermittently on/off, but for the past season it was on the whole time.

    I decided to go the route of rebuilding the ABS ASC+T via modular masters. The first three torx screws came off easily. But the last one was rusted in (figures it was the one furthest down). I ended up stripping off the head and had to use a Dremel to grid it off. That was challenging getting the Dremel down into the engine compartment, but it worked. The other three torx screws came off easily. The electrical disconnection was easy after seeing in the posts above how far it needs to be pulled up to disconnect it.

    After getting the unit back, I had to drive the car over 5mph to have the unit reset itself, vs. just having the car idle and not moving.

    So total cost about $200 with shipping/insurance and buying a #6 torx socket/driver. Sure beats over $1,200 for a new unit w/o only a 1 year warranty, where as you get a 5 year warranty rebuilding it.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    449
    My Cars
    Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by TheVawtz View Post
    My Z3 was experiencing what everyone above was having with their ABS light on along with the ASC light on. At first it was intermittently on/off, but for the past season it was on the whole time.

    I decided to go the route of rebuilding the ABS ASC+T via modular masters. The first three torx screws came off easily. But the last one was rusted in (figures it was the one furthest down). I ended up stripping off the head and had to use a Dremel to grid it off. That was challenging getting the Dremel down into the engine compartment, but it worked. The other three torx screws came off easily. The electrical disconnection was easy after seeing in the posts above how far it needs to be pulled up to disconnect it.

    After getting the unit back, I had to drive the car over 5mph to have the unit reset itself, vs. just having the car idle and not moving.

    So total cost about $200 with shipping/insurance and buying a #6 torx socket/driver. Sure beats over $1,200 for a new unit w/o only a 1 year warranty, where as you get a 5 year warranty rebuilding it.
    lol I stripped that bolt, too. I ended up buying their bolt kit which worked perfectly fine. My light has not come on since.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Littleton, Colorado
    Posts
    234
    My Cars
    '01 ///M Roadster
    I have read this entire thread; here are my symptoms. The car is a 2001 ///M Roadster. Not all the time, but sometimes, when braking at slow speeds, I feel the ABS starting to grab. And sometimes, the following will happen.

    1. The ABS, DSC and tire pressure lights will come on.
    2. Most times, when I turn the ignition off for a few moments and restart the engine, the tire pressure light will be off but ABS and DSC will remain on.
    3. After driving for a bit, sometimes, but not always, the ABS and DSC lights will go off pretty quickly and all will be okay for a while.

    This past weekend, I cleaned all of the sensors, as I have done in the past, and things have been good, so far. I'm sure this "good" condition won't last since this has been going on, intermittently, for a long time. The only difference now is that I don't panic and just take it in stride. It really is quite annoying and I will be contacting the module guys.

    The best thing is learning that I am not alone and that there may be an answer to one of the electrical gremlins that plague my ride.

    The other really annoying one is that the car will lock, and sometimes unlock the doors by itself. Now that one is most perplexing. Has anyone else had that problem? Or, is my car haunted?
    2001 ///M Roadster - Titanium Silver
    F: TC Kline/Koni coilover struts, Eibach, TC Kline Camber Plates, Wilwood big front brakes, GC tubular swaybar, Dinan Strut Brace R: TC Kline springs, short Bilsteins, IE sub & swingarm bushings & shock mounts, 3.23 gear, Rogue dual-ear cover, Eisenmann 4x83 Sport pipes. MISC: Sport mode, Rogue pulleys, keyless, RG Motorsport CAI, Randy Forbes rear end fix.
    2007 335i Coupe, Sport, Black inside and out, Bone Stock Rocket Ship.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Florida
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    Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by mitrebox1 View Post
    I have read this entire thread; here are my symptoms. The car is a 2001 ///M Roadster. Not all the time, but sometimes, when braking at slow speeds, I feel the ABS starting to grab. And sometimes, the following will happen.

    1. The ABS, DSC and tire pressure lights will come on.
    2. Most times, when I turn the ignition off for a few moments and restart the engine, the tire pressure light will be off but ABS and DSC will remain on.
    3. After driving for a bit, sometimes, but not always, the ABS and DSC lights will go off pretty quickly and all will be okay for a while.

    This past weekend, I cleaned all of the sensors, as I have done in the past, and things have been good, so far. I'm sure this "good" condition won't last since this has been going on, intermittently, for a long time. The only difference now is that I don't panic and just take it in stride. It really is quite annoying and I will be contacting the module guys.

    The best thing is learning that I am not alone and that there may be an answer to one of the electrical gremlins that plague my ride.

    The other really annoying one is that the car will lock, and sometimes unlock the doors by itself. Now that one is most perplexing. Has anyone else had that problem? Or, is my car haunted?
    I don't think they can rebuild DSC modules.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    East Aurora, NY
    Posts
    18
    My Cars
    1999 BMW Z3 Roadster 2.8
    Modular Master Cannot rebuild DSC units only ASC units. However I believe there is another company for considerably more ($500 vs. $150) that can. It was in one of the threads on the forums here.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    203
    My Cars
    '01 s54 M Coupe; '11 750
    I had similar symptoms plaguing my 2001 M Coupe. Before you go about buying another DSC module, I suggest you test the speed (yaw) sensor under the carpet of the driver's seat.

    If you have access to a GT1 there are a number of tests that you can run on the DSC module and related components to determine if the sensors are working correctly. Use these tests as your guide (not necessarily the error codes).

    My yaw sensor basically showed that the car was in a constant spin when sitting still with the engine off. Luckily these sensors are cheaper and more ubiquitous (mostly e46) than the DSC module, plus they don't need to coded to the car. (AFAIK, the DCS part number must match given year-to-year changes in TPMS among other things.)

    I'm betting you have access to a GT1 given all of your mods, but if you don't I would still advise replacing the sensor with a used one for about $200. After you replace it the problem might persist for a mile or two. However, the DME will find it, and eventually let you clear the DSC error codes. If you go the DSC Module replacement route you are going to spend a lot more and still need the GT1 to set it up.

    As far as your car un/locking... do you have an alarm or keyless entry (OEM or aftermarket)? If yes, unplug it. Does the problem still persist? They fry... I've been through two already. If you still have a problem, I'm guessing a short somewhere - but couldn't tell you much more.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Littleton, Colorado
    Posts
    234
    My Cars
    '01 ///M Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by SGs54MC View Post
    I had similar symptoms plaguing my 2001 M Coupe. Before you go about buying another DSC module, I suggest you test the speed (yaw) sensor under the carpet of the driver's seat.

    If you have access to a GT1 there are a number of tests that you can run on the DSC module and related components to determine if the sensors are working correctly. Use these tests as your guide (not necessarily the error codes).

    My yaw sensor basically showed that the car was in a constant spin when sitting still with the engine off. Luckily these sensors are cheaper and more ubiquitous (mostly e46) than the DSC module, plus they don't need to coded to the car. (AFAIK, the DCS part number must match given year-to-year changes in TPMS among other things.)

    I'm betting you have access to a GT1 given all of your mods, but if you don't I would still advise replacing the sensor with a used one for about $200. After you replace it the problem might persist for a mile or two. However, the DME will find it, and eventually let you clear the DSC error codes. If you go the DSC Module replacement route you are going to spend a lot more and still need the GT1 to set it up.

    As far as your car un/locking... do you have an alarm or keyless entry (OEM or aftermarket)? If yes, unplug it. Does the problem still persist? They fry... I've been through two already. If you still have a problem, I'm guessing a short somewhere - but couldn't tell you much more.
    Thanks for the tips.

    I have Peake code readers and should have a GoPoint Tech BT1 on Monday. Will the BT1 give the same reads as the GT1? (Nope!) (Just found a GT1 on ebay for an opening bid of $12,000.00. Out of my league.)

    All the lights came on today. Just checked with the Peake and it showed NO Codes...
    Last edited by mitrebox1; 11-23-2013 at 06:12 PM.
    2001 ///M Roadster - Titanium Silver
    F: TC Kline/Koni coilover struts, Eibach, TC Kline Camber Plates, Wilwood big front brakes, GC tubular swaybar, Dinan Strut Brace R: TC Kline springs, short Bilsteins, IE sub & swingarm bushings & shock mounts, 3.23 gear, Rogue dual-ear cover, Eisenmann 4x83 Sport pipes. MISC: Sport mode, Rogue pulleys, keyless, RG Motorsport CAI, Randy Forbes rear end fix.
    2007 335i Coupe, Sport, Black inside and out, Bone Stock Rocket Ship.

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    203
    My Cars
    '01 s54 M Coupe; '11 750
    Quote Originally Posted by mitrebox1 View Post
    Thanks for the tips.

    I have Peake code readers and should have a GoPoint Tech BT1 on Monday. Will the BT1 give the same reads as the GT1?

    All the lights came on today. Just checked with the Peake and it showed NO Codes...
    I have no idea what a BT1 is, so I couldn't tell you. Basically you want to run the diagnostics and also individually activate the sensors/pumps to see if they are responding in the appropriately.

    You can't always trust the lack of codes. In my case the sensor was technically working, just malfunctioning by showing a constant radical yaw rate. (Ideally there would be some logic built into the system that would throw a code when the RPMs are zero, or similar, and the yaw rate fluctuates wildly.)

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    hk
    Posts
    149
    My Cars
    2000 Z3 3.0i
    For z3, not sure about M, but my facelift 3.0 asc module actually can be fixed DIY quite easily

    I got another thread about that when some good members here guide me through the process and i also shared my careless mistake of accidentally broken a IC
    But anyway finally it works perfectly
    Last edited by betaruce; 11-27-2013 at 05:21 AM.

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    480
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    2000 M roadster
    MM does great work... i've sent several modules from many different vehicles and all work perfectly once returned...

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Abilene, TX
    Posts
    1
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    1999 BMW Z3 2.8
    Nice photo. Your seat belt holder isn't broken! How did that happen?

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    spain - madrid
    Posts
    75
    My Cars
    z3 coupe 2.8
    It is very easy to fix it with the cheapest pewter solder, I did it in spain for 4 units and all came back to live, mine have been working for 3 years without any trouble since I repaired it.

    Here are some pictures.


    Be aware of not soldering out of the circle on the right one.


    This is the latest done


  14. #64
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Omaha
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1997 328I Sport Package
    puntoloco...what is the process for getting the module open? I am going to assume that this is the repair that MM is doing, and I'm comfortable with a soldering iron.

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    11,402
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    36 Cylinders
    Quote Originally Posted by puntoloco View Post
    It is very easy to fix it with the cheapest pewter solder, I did it in spain for 4 units and all came back to live, mine have been working for 3 years without any trouble since I repaired it.

    Here are some pictures.


    Be aware of not soldering out of the circle on the right one.


    This is the latest done



    Thank you puntoloco! I always imagined it was an easy fix. Never had to do it *yet, but it's good to know.



    Aaaaand Module Masters prices have just dropped....
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 520whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Omaha
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1997 328I Sport Package
    Just did puntoloco's repair. I took a dremel tool to the cover, and sure enough, both solder joints were fried. All put back together now and working as it should.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Macedon, NY USA
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1999 z3 2.5 roadster
    Where did you cut the module to get it open?

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    cincinnati
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    1999 Z3, 1972 TR6
    Okay. I'm intrigued. How do you glue the unit back together? How does module masters open the unit without a dremel? Do they give you a new case?

    This looks too easy by the description

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Spring Hill, FL
    Posts
    23
    My Cars
    '97 & '01 Z3's
    OK today Module Master says they can repair my 2001 Z3 3.0i DSC Mk60 module that is listed as under development on their site. When I last contacted them about a month or two ago, they said my DSC Mk60 module was unrepairable. It is on its way and only $250 and a 5 year guarantee.

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Spring Hill, FL
    Posts
    23
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    '97 & '01 Z3's
    20151114_173216.jpgFor anyone interested in what the inside of a DSC Mk60 module looks like. This one is toast! Notice the hole in the chip in the middle.

  21. #71
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Sebring Florida
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2001 BMW Z-3 Roadster
    How did the repair go with Module Master ? Can they now fix the Ate Mark 60 ? I have the same and worse with my 2001 Z-3 . Both lights on and off when they please, and it even applies braking at times.

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    FL / 6ix
    Posts
    578
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    RWD
    Quote Originally Posted by puntoloco View Post
    It is very easy to fix it with the cheapest pewter solder, I did it in spain for 4 units and all came back to live, mine have been working for 3 years without any trouble since I repaired it.

    Here are some pictures.


    Be aware of not soldering out of the circle on the right one.


    This is the latest done

    Can someone rehost these pictures? I would like to see where the solder repair was made.
    Thanks,

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    4,503
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    1997 BMW Z3 1.9L 5MT

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    kelowna
    Posts
    585
    My Cars
    Z3 Coupe 3.0
    Too bad the top does just not come off easy. Thanks for the link.

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    FL / 6ix
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    578
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    RWD
    Thanks, the last one helps.
    Hopefully this is my problem.

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