Front Window Regulator

[jamesdc4]

This might help.

Window regulator replacement

[evertoconquer]

You guys are making this entirely too hard. I ordered mine from ebay for $40 something with shipping, all I had to do was swap the motor over to the new regulator and reinstall, easy as it gets.

Got it from here...http://stores.ebay.com/DependableAut...=p4634.c0.m322

[82bmw633]

That's what I did. Until the "new" regulator failed in less than a year. Others may have better luck.

[Jimania]

If your front WINDOW IS STUCK IN THE UP POSITION here is the solution . . .

In this situation you will find no access to four bolts at the top of the door. In an OEM stock parts situation you will be looking at two brass colored star/torx bolts which secure the window regulator to the door, and two natural/silver colored T20 torx that hold the glass into the carrier. What I refer to as the carrier is a natural/silver piece into which the glass is seated and which serves to hold and the glass as it travels. The T20 located towrd the outside edge of the door can best be removed by using a Torx screwdriver because there is not enough room for a socket style torx driver.

The first order of business is to use wire cutters to cut the vertical cables on the existing window regulator. This will effectively free the glass from the window regulator and allow it to be lowered inside of the door.

Next remove the two silver bolts (one each side) that tighten the carrier to the glass. Gently pry off the front side of the carrier (one of the pieces holding the glass). Next work to remove the remaining carrier piece and note that the glass may be somewhat stuck to the carrier after years of being attached. With a little effort the clip can be totally removed/separated from the glass. With this carrier off of the glass you can angle/raise it to remove the top two bolts that hold the window regulator in place.

[frankthetank966]

This just happened to me. Does anyone have an explanation why this happens? How much will a dealer cost?

[82bmw633]

Dealer will probably try to sell you a new regulator complete with motor. I'm pretty sure you can get OEM front regulators without the motor and just swap in your old one

My indie told me it's just not a very good design. He recommends the BMW part over a cheap replacement.

I don't remember the cost when I had my indie replace a front one (the second time) but a dealer is bound to change at least $400 or more installed.

[82bmw633]

[QUOTE="82bmw633;14442906"]I just replaced my passenger side front window regulator in my 2000 528iA Sport (with door airbags). Picked up a new regulator on eBay for $98 and free shipping. I took a boatload of pictures and created a 21-page PDF. It's probably a little excessive to post as a message here so if you want a copy of the file just PM me with your e-mail address. The PDF is 5mb.

-OR-

Download it from this link --> HERE

I always take pictures so I can check on stuff when I put it back together. Replacement turned out to be pretty easy. I took my time so I probably spent about 5 hours total.

Since regulators go bad frequently I figured someone could benefit from what I learned. My driver's side regulator is making noise so I'll be replacing that once soon as well.

PLEASE NOTE: NEW LINK TO GOOGLE DOCS

[540IFL]

I'm Glad I found this thread...

FWIW:
I Got a quote from Goggin (Yesterday) for front and rear on a 2000 540i.

Front $405 Rear $728 - Figured for $1100 I'd see if I could do it myself...

[eMpower3d]

I'm sorry if I missed it, but I need a little guidance as I'm about to trouble shoot my driver side window again tonight. I've opened up each door car on the front before to put the window back in the clips. But now my driver side window is stuck up and I don't hear any noise other than the switch click when I try to roll it down.

It does not sound as if the motor is trying to move the window and there is no crunching noise. All other windows operate as normal. Anyone have some advice? Thanks.

[82bmw633]

I'm sorry if I missed it, but I need a little guidance as I'm about to trouble shoot my driver side window again tonight. I've opened up each door car on the front before to put the window back in the clips. But now my driver side window is stuck up and I don't hear any noise other than the switch click when I try to roll it down.

It does not sound as if the motor is trying to move the window and there is no crunching noise. All other windows operate as normal. Anyone have some advice? Thanks.

Check fuses. See if there's power to the motor (multi-meter). Motor could be bad. Switch could be bad. I had a window module (driver's side door arm rest) go bad once.

Make sure the motor wiring is properly plugged into the harness (not to offend but, I have forgotten to do simple tasks that make it seem like a larger problem).

[bcain79]

Thanks for the DIY - very helpful!

[eMpower3d]

Check fuses. See if there's power to the motor (multi-meter). Motor could be bad. Switch could be bad. I had a window module (driver's side door arm rest) go bad once.

Make sure the motor wiring is properly plugged into the harness (not to offend but, I have forgotten to do simple tasks that make it seem like a larger problem).

Thanks, and no offense taken. I'm going to my indie tomorrow to open her up, the fuses did not appear to be blown.

I'm going on a 350 mile golf trip this weekend and intend to use my window, smoker problems.

[bpromersberger]

You sir are a gentleman and a scholar. Thanks!!

[anthonyv408]

Did mine three weeks ago. Same side

[540IFL]

OK - To save everybody a headache:
In September/October of last year I replaced the front Window regulator Using a kit from 1A Auto HERE , Yes - Cheap is cheap -
It Failed miserably about 2 weeks ago (<10 Mos. Old) - without any warning when I was putting the window down both clamping jaws came off the cable.
(I rarely put the windows down - maybe a dozen times since install).

Since I'm ripping it apart again - I figured I would list the Part Numbers and prices that I ended up needing (From BMW of South Atlanta).
Part Numbers for a 2000 540i (Should fit any car using this guide - but double check for your car) - Quantities mentioned are Per Door

(Should probably get some spares - they do break)
The Yellow Clips (Door Trim) "Clip, yellow" Part No. 51418172050 ; 51410151699 Price Apx. $0.60 (3 Needed)
The White Clips (Door Trim) "Clip Natur." Part No. 51411973500 ; 51418161527 Price Apx. $0.40 (8 Needed)

Electric WINDOW LIFTER FRONT RIGHT (EL.FRONT DOOR WINDOW LIFTING MECHANISM) Part No. 51338252394 Price Apx. $155.00 (1 Needed)
Electric WINDOW LIFTER FRONT LEFT. (EL.FRONT DOOR WINDOW LIFTING MECHANISM) Part No. 51338252393 Price Apx. $155.00 (1 Needed)
The Rubber U shaped piece (between the clamping jaws) "Edge protection" Part No 51338257721 Price Apx. $1 ea. (2 Needed)

Part No.'s I Haven't Been Able to find - So Don't drop them...
T27 Torx screws (3 Needed)
10mm Bolts (2 Needed)

[RJLupin]

I just want to tape my driver's side .. shit failed again.. and again!

[bcain79]

Mine just failed for the second time in 6 months

[Mcgillagorrila]

Great work, this just helped me out to replace my part.. Thanks for putting this together.

[jbear]

Great write up. Thanks for all the pictures and moving to the Google host. I would have missed the bottom light and door vent screw for sure. Just a couple notes from my experience (2003 530i): The top 3 bolts were T25 and the motor screws were T20. If you need to buy screwdrivers/bits keep that in mind, probably want to check before leaving the store. Jus N Tyme scrapers work great for pulling the door apart. I used the thin orange and wide black ones. Also, my window control came out with out too much prying, so I removed it. To disconnect the two smaller plugs flip down the bale on the top. The larger one needs to have the bale pulled out. Its a little harder to see, but put the narrow scraper in there and it will slide out and plug will come off. When testing things you only need to hook up the one big connector.

Link to scrapers:
http://www.jusntyme.com/products/wide-scrapers.html
http://www.jusntyme.com/products/scrapers.html

[olivier577]

thanks for sharing your pdf. The link in the post #1 wasn't working at my work because of the firm security policy, but work at my home.
Olivier

[pftuning]

Anyone tried this Rock Auto Part?

http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/51338252394U

I only ask because the part manufacturer claims to have improved the part:

"Now available in the Uro Premium improved design. This design includes a ball bearing pulley which nearly eliminates friction within the regulator, drastically reducing motor load and exceeding the OE regulator specs for cycle testing by over 6 times! 1 per car"

51338252394U.jpg

My ebay unit lasted a few months before it spit out the window and bent itself.


Thanks for the great writeup!

[Shedtastic]

Anyone tried this Rock Auto Part?

http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/51338252394U

I only ask because the part manufacturer claims to have improved the part:

"Now available in the Uro Premium improved design. This design includes a ball bearing pulley which nearly eliminates friction within the regulator, drastically reducing motor load and exceeding the OE regulator specs for cycle testing by over 6 times! 1 per car"

51338252394U.jpg

My ebay unit lasted a few months before it spit out the window and bent itself.


Thanks for the great writeup!

I'm normally nervous about URO brand parts, but I might take a punt on that part. The reviews for the sub $50 amazon / ebay versions seem to be overwhelmingly poor..
Even the Siemens VDO brand one at $100 gets unanimously bad reviews on Pelican parts.
Can't face over $200 for a BMW OEM one..

Order placed..

[Shedtastic]

..and I fitted the URO regulator today. Went in fine, seems to work fine today... I guess only time will tell..

[alexmkv91]

Any update on how the URO window regulator holds up?

[Shedtastic]

Any update on how the URO window regulator holds up?

It's still doing good service, no issues.

I also replaced a rear regulator on the E39 with a really cheap ebay part recently. A-Premium brand. (The old regulator had got very "crunchy", but I never carried rear passengers so it was no issue. Then my Mum came to visit and I forgot to tell her not to put the window down.. It got stuck about half way and would not budge. So finally I bought a new one. But since it will only get used about once a year I went cheap)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Result:

It goes up and down fine, but the motor must be wired backwards as the up button makes it go down and the down button makes it go up..

At the point in reassembly when you check it works, the electric window switch is just floating in the air, dethatched from the door card, so I didn't notice the problem until I'd already sealed up the inner door and refitted the doorcard with all new clips. I suppose in the rear seat, it doesn't really matter as I just turned the switch around in the door panel. But the front switches can't be flipped round. Ah well.